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  #1  
Old 03-21-2009, 10:57 PM
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nrakid88 nrakid88 is offline
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Default Can I do a 1911 trigger job myself?

Anyone have experience doing 1911 trigger jobs? I am looking on Midway usa and I want to get a new Skeletonized hammer, wilson combat ultralight trigger, and the deluxe a-2 sear. I can take apart and assemble my guns completely, built my ar from every little part, and have chopped and recrowned a barrel. I don't know how good with guns you need to be to do this trigger job... Think I should try it or save up and pay someone else to do it for me?
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Old 03-21-2009, 11:28 PM
zeb zeb is offline
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I came across this article when I was learning how to do it myself - http://www.brownells.com/aspx/NS/Gun...?p=0&t=1&i=349

Very good info if followed correctly.
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Old 03-22-2009, 1:23 AM
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Too bad you're down South, I have a fixture.
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Old 03-22-2009, 10:23 AM
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click on "Poor Man's Trigger Job "

As far as just replacing the trigger itself, that is very easy. Changing the trigger pull isn't much more difficult.
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Old 03-22-2009, 12:41 PM
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Default It`s fairly easy

Start by polishing the trigger bow and the mating surfaces of trigger and sear
with 300 grit emery cloth and jeweler`s rouge until they`re slick like glass. Same with the trigger channel of the frame. Cut 2 1/2 coils off the mainspring.
Slightly bend the 3 prong leafspring inwards OR buy a Cylinder and Slide spring from Midway. That`ll give you a nice crisp 2lb pull.


DO NOT alter the engament angle of hammer and sear since this can result in an unsafe condition.

Hope that helps

Last edited by StevieG; 03-22-2009 at 9:15 PM..
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Old 03-22-2009, 9:09 PM
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Looks like I can do it. Sweet. I cant wait to get some free time to tackle this beast
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Old 03-24-2009, 10:34 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by StevieG View Post
Start by polishing the trigger bow and the mating surfaces of trigger and sear
with 300 grit emery cloth and jeweler`s rouge until they`re slick like glass. Same with the trigger channel of the frame. Cut 2 1/2 coils off the mainspring.
Slightly bend the 3 prong leafspring inwards OR buy a Cylinder and Slide spring from Midway. That`ll give you a nice crisp 2lb pull.


DO NOT alter the engament angle of hammer and sear since this can result in an unsafe condition.

Hope that helps
DO NOT USE Emery cloth on the sear face. If all you need to do is polish the sear then just try the jeweler's rouge and that's only if you can't find a stoning fixture and Arkansas trued stones. The cut of the sear's angle is important to having a safe, but crisp trigger pull. You can polish up the trigger bow/channel as mentioned, but I highly advice against cutting coils off the mainsprings. Wolff has a spring set kit for this. Usually if you buy a quality prepped hammer and sear you may not need anything else but to adjust the trigger/sear/grip safety spring. Once you smithed the required parts, to test it install a 12 lb recoil spring and drop the slide on an empty chamber. If the hammer doesn't follow try it with a 14 lb recoil spring - if it holds then reinstall the factory recoil spring to test it at the range with a single round in the mag only. If you don't have hammer follow then load up the mag halfway and let everything break in by shooting or dry firing.
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Last edited by JTROKS; 03-24-2009 at 10:37 AM..
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Old 03-24-2009, 2:38 PM
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JTROKS is correct. You can lower the pull by chopping springs, but cutting the mainspring WILL decrease hammer force, and that MAY cause light primer strikes.

Get the Wolfe lw hammer spring & polish the trigger bow. If you want to play a little, stone down the hammer notch to not less than 0.018", clean up the sear angle & make sure the disconnector is correctly fitted. Do NOT use sandpaper/emery cloth/etc.

To figure it all out, either check Brownells' video or (better yet) get Volume I of Jerry Kuhnhausen's 1911 Shop Manual...it will be the best money you spend on your 1911.

-hanko
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