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Centerfire Rifles - Semiautomatic or Gas Operated Centerfire rifles, carbines and other gas operated rifles.

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  #1  
Old 12-15-2008, 3:47 PM
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Default Did my own "AR trigger job"

I just basically took out the stock single stage RRA trigger out and did a whole bunch of searching for how to work over a stock trigger. I opted out of the "15 minute trigger job" because I didn't want to be cutting on the springs I'd rather get a JP 10 dollar yellow spring to lower the pull. I just smoothed out the trigger by a little jewelers rouge and took my sweet sweet time. It took quite a while but polishing the sear surfaces really really helped. The gurus are going to think that I rounded them but they are really on the money straight still. I don't think I took any real amount of metal off with the amount of polishing that I did. I also bent a touch the hammer springs and that dropped the pull weight by just a hair. I didn't want to go overboard with this because I've been known to shoot crap surplus ammo with hard primers and would end up with some FTF because of the lack of hammer strength. I recommend anybody with a bit of technical know how and some time to polish up their triggers because compared to the rocks it was grinding against before, its like butter.
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Old 12-15-2008, 3:59 PM
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Make sure you do a thorough function check. If, for any reason, your rifle malfunctions and goes FA, you can get into a lot of trouble. Accidents like this have happened and people have been jailed. Yes, its stupid. It has happened though. If it works, congrats. Just know its probably better to spend money on a nice trigger than get into trouble over foolish malfunction laws.
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Old 12-15-2008, 4:19 PM
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PM me with your info if you would.. I have and RRA stock trigger that sucks. Gritty, inconsitient and tough. Not interesed in FA but if you can make it a good pull - need info. Tkhs
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Old 12-15-2008, 6:05 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Solidsnake87 View Post
Make sure you do a thorough function check. If, for any reason, your rifle malfunctions and goes FA, you can get into a lot of trouble. Accidents like this have happened and people have been jailed. Yes, its stupid. It has happened though. If it works, congrats. Just know its probably better to spend money on a nice trigger than get into trouble over foolish malfunction laws.
Polishing the sear surfaces, and cutting springs etc... will not make a FA... as long as you are not touching the disconnector, you will be fine....

But then, ALWAYS perform "function/safety" check whenever you remove/install the FCG.
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Old 12-15-2008, 6:10 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by bombadillo View Post
I opted out of the "15 minute trigger job" because I didn't want to be cutting on the springs I'd rather get a JP 10 dollar yellow spring to lower the pull.
If you choose to use the yellow spring, you may want to "cut" the hammer hook. I have read somewhere that the yellow spring may not have enough energy to push the heavy hammer to ignite some of the harder primers consistantly.

Read this thread (for the similar trigger job):
http://www.ar15.com/forums/topic.htm...f=282&t=159764

PS. bottomline: get a aftermarket trigger please......
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Old 12-15-2008, 6:28 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Solidsnake87 View Post
Make sure you do a thorough function check. If, for any reason, your rifle malfunctions and goes FA, you can get into a lot of trouble. Accidents like this have happened and people have been jailed. Yes, its stupid. It has happened though. If it works, congrats. Just know its probably better to spend money on a nice trigger than get into trouble over foolish malfunction laws.
Aftermarket triggers can be prone to hammer follow and doubling ("FA") as well, especially the single stage versions. Regardless of DIY or aftermarket trigger, responsibility to maintain a safe semi auto only function is on the owner/operator.
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Old 12-15-2008, 7:24 PM
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Originally Posted by 7222 Hawker View Post
PM me with your info if you would.. I have and RRA stock trigger that sucks. Gritty, inconsitient and tough. Not interesed in FA but if you can make it a good pull - need info. Tkhs
As far as doing this, I don't know what else to say other than to really really slow down and take your time and go with very fine jewelers rouge. I took over 2 hours to do it right, and got a really smooth trigger out of it. I don't believe that there is any chance that it will ever go full auto as stated above. I don't have the sear for it. The springs I bent just a tiny bit and again they didn't really feel all that much different. Maybe a hair lighter on the pull but not really noticeable compared to the grit that used to be there. Be very light with things. The worst thing to do would be to run up and mash it into a buffing wheel and round off the sear edge or go past the heat treated area.

My only advice is read up on it all over ar15.com, here, and anywhere that you can get technical info. And take your time take your time take your time!!!!! Don't get into a hurry on stuff like this because you will ruin parts.
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Old 12-15-2008, 7:26 PM
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Originally Posted by Jicko View Post
If you choose to use the yellow spring, you may want to "cut" the hammer hook. I have read somewhere that the yellow spring may not have enough energy to push the heavy hammer to ignite some of the harder primers consistantly.

Read this thread (for the similar trigger job):
http://www.ar15.com/forums/topic.htm...f=282&t=159764

PS. bottomline: get a aftermarket trigger please......
I plan on it!! I can't decide yet what to go with. I shot the predecessor to the Geissele trigger and it was pretty sweet. I am looking at jewel, geissele, JP 3 pound triggers for my next gun. This one I just want to throw a set of yellow springs and plink with it. Its a 16" yhm upper and stag lower with basic stuff. Nothing spectacular. My next build will be a tac-driver with a nice trigger.
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  #9  
Old 12-15-2008, 8:16 PM
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You may want to just put in an order for the Gieselle SSA trigger @ adcofirearms.com , it used to be $145, and it is now $175.... it is the non-adjustable version of Gieselle's $270 trigger.... and I think the wait time is probably around 6mo.

PS. Unintentional "FA", you don't need a "sear" for it.... it is "super unsafe" and still "illegal".... just keep doing the "function/safety" test whenever you are installing FCG...
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  #10  
Old 12-15-2008, 8:44 PM
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i cant picture an AR trigger group at the moment, but i dont see how polishing contacting surfaces could cause a FA malfunction. So long as you are removing a significant amount of material, you should not harm sear engagement.

Granted, this is not something that a person who is not mechanically inclined should be doing.


The first thing i do to a new 10/22 is polish the contacting surfaces in the trigger group. flat surfaces are easy to polish, and make a huge difference in the felt trigger pull. another thing i do is polish the face of the hammer where it contacts the bolt. Makes cycling much easier.

Edit: +1 to the OP for doing what seems to be a fine job of improving the trigger pull of a service type rifle. And pics of your work next time would be awesome!
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  #11  
Old 12-15-2008, 8:47 PM
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no pics to speak of. I didn't really do much to bother taking pics. It'd just be like looking at a parts kit.
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