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  #1  
Old 03-14-2014, 11:16 PM
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tozan tozan is offline
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Default Designing a 10/22 reciever to accept a threaded barrel

I am thinking of designing a 10/22 reciever that will use a threaded barrel instead of the standard bottom clamping mount.

With a threaded barrel it should be more stable and more accurate. I was also thinking of:

A. Left-handed charging handle with right hand ejection.

B. Extended picitiny rail.

C. Rear cleaning rod hole.

D. Rear receiver stock mounting lug.

E. Fitted receiver pins.

Anyone have other ideas that could make this a better rifle?



For the naysayers... I have a few CNC mills and lathes and a full machine shop available that I an use.
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  #2  
Old 03-14-2014, 11:25 PM
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you really think it will be more accurate?
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Old 03-15-2014, 2:37 AM
50BMGBOB 50BMGBOB is offline
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They do make some that way, at least for the aftermarket. I forget the thread size they use but you could search for it to be somewhat standard. Some of the aftermarket threaded 10/22 receivers add a lug to the back of the receiver to aid in bedding it so they can free float the barrel. I have a buddy with one and know that more than one maker has done it.
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Old 03-15-2014, 3:59 AM
old man dave old man dave is offline
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Except for the left handed charging handle, its all been done before. http://Rimfirecentral.com. One of the custom 10-22 rifle builders is http://coolguyguns.com

There's even a guy (Teddy Bear Rat) on RimFireCentral who built his 10-22 based rifle reciever out of brass. Theres a long thread there where he documented the whole process of building his rifle from scratch and machining the reciever. A good read if you plan on making your own reciever.

Last edited by old man dave; 03-15-2014 at 4:06 AM..
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  #5  
Old 03-15-2014, 6:19 AM
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actually on the top level Olympic rifles back in the day they would use a very over sized barrel and bed it to the stock and free float the receiver. there is not enough pressure in a .22lr to create a huge shockwave down the barrel like a center fire would do.

Threading the barrel will not make it more accurate. At least not anymore accurate then it is right now. the barrel mount is plenty strong enough to do the job and that all that maters. making the joint stronger will not make it more accurate.

You want to know a secret to .22lr accuracy?? Get the best barrel you can afford and spend top dollar on match grade ammo and a few different brands to find what your weapon likes then stick with that. it's that easy.
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Old 03-15-2014, 6:56 AM
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^^ and get a decent trigger for it. 10/22 factory triggers are hideous.
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Old 03-15-2014, 7:37 AM
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^^ and get a decent trigger for it. 10/22 factory triggers are hideous.
Yep that too. But thats me figuring that should go without saying but I guess not.
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  #8  
Old 03-15-2014, 11:20 PM
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I have threaded several 10/22 barrels to 3/4-16 or 3/4-20 and then shortened the barrel enough to thread it into the action and re-cut the chamber and extractor groove.
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Old 03-16-2014, 2:02 AM
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Hello tozan:

I make my own 10-22 receivers and barrels. Some things are nice features to have. Other things seem like a good idea, but actually aren't that useful. Some features for the 10-22 are just fads, and are next to useless.
There are three things that you detailed that you might think about before you commit to them. The first is the extended Picitiny rail. If you just want a longer scope rail, that's fine. But, if you are contemplating a rail that's machined integrally with the receiver, that actually a drawback. With an integral rail, you would have no way of changing the MOA of your scope rail. This could become important if you have barrel droop, (I'll discuss barrel droop in a minute) Also, an integral rail doesn't offer any real advantage in rigidity over a properly mounted detachable rail.
The next feature is the rear cleaning hole. In my opinion this is the most useless feature ever offered for the 10-22 platform. It would require the used to strip the action out of the stock, then remove the trigger group and bolt each time the rifle is cleaned. Good luck having the rifle hold zero again after it is reassembled. The purported advantage for the rear cleaning hole is that it prevents damage to the muzzle crown from cleaning rods. If your worried about damaging the muzzle crown while cleaning then use a crown protector; it's a lot easier than having to re-sight in the rifle after every time its cleaned.
The last feature that I've found to be of little use is the rear receiver stock mounting lug. This offers no practical advantage over a proper pillar and glass bedding job. With a metal pillar and a good glass bedding, the action will be rock solid.
There are desirable features which greatly enhance the performance of the 10-22. The first is a quality barrel with a Bentz chamber. The second is a better trigger group. There are lots of aftermarket trigger groups available that are worlds better than the factory trigger. As it comes from the factory, the trigger pull on a factory 10-22 is set at 7 to 8 pounds. Myself, I rework the internals, hand fit the parts and add different springs to the factory trigger group until I have a smooth 2 pound trigger pull. If you decide to rework a factory trigger group, you should also modify the bolt release to be an automatic bolt release.
Another worthwhile feature is to replace the steel bolt stop pin with a polyurethane buffer. It makes the action quieter as it cycles. You should ream the trigger group mounting holes in the receiver and trigger group .002" oversize, and then use .002" oversize dowel pins. This will keep the tigger group tight in the receiver. Also, only a small length of the barrel, if any, should be glass bedded. These rifles usually work best if the barrel is free floated.
Now as for the threaded receiver. This feature will contribute nothing towards accuracy over the standard barrel mount. What it will correct is barrel droop. The factory barrel mounts to the receiver with a v shaped lug, at the bottom rear of the barrel. If the mounting hole on the front of the receiver is a little large, or if the barrel shank is a little small, this mounting system can cause the barrel to be canted down at a slight angle. This is called barrel droop.
This is one of those hot button topics that 10-22 aficionados will argue over constantly. Some people claim that barrel droop doesn't exist. Others claim that it can be corrected by installing a small screw into the mounting v-block, (it can't). There are mechanics involved that are too lengthy for this post. Suffice it to say that the best way to deal with barrel droop is to increase the MOA of your scope rail to compensate for it. One of my 10-22's is based on the receiver of a rifle that I bought back in 1982. It has a bull barrel and a 6x24 scope on it. The barrel droop on this rifle was so bad that I needed to install 40 MOA to the scope rail to get the scope on target at 50 yards. (It shoots about a dime sized group at that distance.)
I can't comment on the left hand charging handle except to say that you'd have to get creative with the bolt spring and guide rail, as well as the socket at the back of the receiver that the bolt spring guide goes into. I don't mean in any way to discourage you. Everything that you want to do can be done. You put out a call for opinions, and these are just my two cents.

Toxic Shock
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  #10  
Old 03-16-2014, 8:14 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Toxic Shock View Post
There are three things that you detailed that you might think about before you commit to them. The first is the extended Picitiny rail. If you just want a longer scope rail, that's fine. But, if you are contemplating a rail that's machined integrally with the receiver, that actually a drawback. With an integral rail, you would have no way of changing the MOA of your scope rail. This could become important if you have barrel droop, (I'll discuss barrel droop in a minute) Also, an integral rail doesn't offer any real advantage in rigidity over a properly mounted detachable rail.
If you were building a receiver from scratch, you could eliminate the whole v-block clamping setup and leave the whole front of the receiver solid.
The picatinny rail on top could then extend forward the same length as the lower lug of the receiver.
As that whole front end is now solid, you could cut threads that are over 1.5" long (I don't have a print handy) and thread the barrel into the receiver.
This extended receiver would fit into a standard 10/22 footprint stock inlet.

The threaded barrel eliminates the barrel droop issue.
The stronger barrel junction keeps a more consistent zero between removing and re-installing the action into the stock.
The stronger barrel junction allows the stock to be inletted/bedded to the extended lug in such a fashion that the barrel is actually free floating.
A free floated and bedded receiver almost eliminates zero wander from removing/re-installing the action into the stock when combined with the stronger threaded junction of the barrel into the receiver.
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  #11  
Old 03-26-2014, 3:03 AM
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tozan tozan is offline
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Thanks for all the feedback, I have a 10/22 now that has excessive barrel droop and I think ar is right a threaded barrel will correct this.


My rifle now changes impact every time I take it apart now and I would like to eliminate that. I think making things fit together at much tighter tolerances and some of the mentioned changes will correct this. I don't feel like creating a completely new gun but I would like to build one that is better.

I like the extended rail to get my eye relief on my scope where I like it. (I have an extended one now) the receiver I have now is a very old one and now I know why, it needs about 35 MOA to get on target. I am thinking of mounting my extended mount to my target barrel on my old gun.

I wonder if I should make a new trigger housing with screws securing it to the upper receiver instead of the pins to improve repeatability, I will have to give that more thought too.

And thanks toxic I kind of thought the rear cleaning hole was unnecessary and eliminating it will also eliminate an extra machining step.

I am still leaning towards a rear mounting lug to keep it more rigid and free floating the barrel.

I think the left side charging handle will be easy to make and I can leave the stock spring in place or just make a new bolt.

What would you guys suggest as a high quality barrel blank?

Do any of you have CAD files or blueprints so I can get the basic specs?
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