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  #201  
Old 01-08-2014, 7:53 AM
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Thanks all for the update on the Ridgid router. I'm sending it back and a Porter Cable will take its place. I can wait for shipping if it means best-foot-forward.

Hats off to 80% Arms for coming up with this concept and shepherding the process through as you are.
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  #202  
Old 01-08-2014, 8:14 AM
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This Ming's a psycho...
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  #203  
Old 01-08-2014, 10:26 AM
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Thats not what the voices say.
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  #204  
Old 01-08-2014, 1:02 PM
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Just a note on the routers from someone who has burned through most brands out there: do yourself a favor and buy a Porter Cable router if you dont already have one, they are not the prettiest, but they are built for work and will last. The Bosch palm routers are nice, but you pay for it. The Ridgid routers are semi-decent, but you will use their lifetime warranty, so fill out the warranty card.
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  #205  
Old 01-08-2014, 5:56 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Maltese Falcon View Post
Opinion on Makita? Saw one in HD and the depth adjustment feature seemed miles better (More precise and better hold) than the Ridged. There was no Porter to inspect.

.
I'm not suggesting one over the other, but I have handled all three (and the B&D for a total of 4) and I have to agree the Rigid's adjustment mechanism left much to be desired (still though it was lightyears ahead of the B&D). The Makita reminded me of the Rigid, although maybe a little better implemented?

On the other hand, the PC is much simpler, and IMHO much better for it. You loosen a spring loaded locking screw then turn a wheel that engages the rack and up or down goes the table. Crank down on the locking screw (finger tight) and that table isn't going anywhere.

With all that said, I'm sticking with the PC. Hope that helps.
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  #206  
Old 01-11-2014, 7:33 PM
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Update on Video???
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  #207  
Old 01-11-2014, 7:56 PM
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  #208  
Old 01-13-2014, 9:02 AM
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Default End mill question

Is this an equivalent end mill?

http://www.mscdirect.com/product/09653577

I ordered the recommended tools from McMaster.com, selected "ground shipping," and entered my PO box address. They shipped the order UPS and disaster ensued. Now the end mill from McMaster.com is back-ordered for two weeks.

Due to the lengthy back-order from McMaster.com I'm guessing there may be others who will also benefit from an alternative source for the end mill.
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  #209  
Old 01-13-2014, 9:54 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Hiknefer View Post
Is this an equivalent end mill?

http://www.mscdirect.com/product/09653577

I ordered the recommended tools from McMaster.com, selected "ground shipping," and entered my PO box address. They shipped the order UPS and disaster ensued. Now the end mill from McMaster.com is back-ordered for two weeks.

Due to the lengthy back-order from McMaster.com I'm guessing there may be others who will also benefit from an alternative source for the end mill.
I think you can probably use a two flute end mill, if the three flute from MMC is on backorder. A machinist friend of mine recommended two flute over three for machining aluminum.

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  #210  
Old 01-13-2014, 10:34 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Hiknefer View Post
Is this an equivalent end mill?

http://www.mscdirect.com/product/09653577

I ordered the recommended tools from McMaster.com, selected "ground shipping," and entered my PO box address. They shipped the order UPS and disaster ensued. Now the end mill from McMaster.com is back-ordered for two weeks.

Due to the lengthy back-order from McMaster.com I'm guessing there may be others who will also benefit from an alternative source for the end mill.
Just get the Long Life TiN for extra $4.00. Those are readily in stock. Mine was also on backordered, I just called them and have them switched it to part
#8923A571. TiN-Coated Carbide End Mill, 1/4" Mill Diameter, 1/4" Shank Diameter, 4" Overall L, 3 Flute. whats surprising is that they are based in Southern California. I ordered my drill bits and mill and received it the same day 3 hours later.

Still waiting on the jig kit from 80%arms. They told me it should ship this week. I'm anxious to get my lower done. Been reading the updated Manual so get a head start on understanding how to mill out this lower. Seems pretty straight forward if you follow directions.

Last edited by Checkk; 01-13-2014 at 10:53 AM..
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  #211  
Old 01-13-2014, 11:15 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by dung8604 View Post
I think you can probably use a two flute end mill, if the three flute from MMC is on backorder. A machinist friend of mine recommended two flute over three for machining aluminum.
Quote:
Originally Posted by Checkk View Post
Just get the Long Life TiN for extra $4.00. Those are readily in stock. Mine was also on backordered, I just called them and have them switched it to part
#8923A571. TiN-Coated Carbide End Mill, 1/4" Mill Diameter, 1/4" Shank Diameter, 4" Overall L, 3 Flute. whats surprising is that they are based in Southern California. I ordered my drill bits and mill and received it the same day 3 hours later.
McMaster had already sent part of my order and only the end mill was back-ordered. So I had to cancel the end mill (otherwise it would probably also have been shipped in an undeliverable manner) and now I'm waiting for UPS to return the partial order to McMaster so they can refund that portion of the order. So placing another order while this stuff is pending may cause confusion. When I contacted them about the shipping issue their response did not inspire confidence. I'd rather start fresh with a different vendor.
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  #212  
Old 01-13-2014, 8:30 PM
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Here's the end mill I ended up ordering:

http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00...?ie=UTF8&psc=1

This caught my attention regarding this tool: "The center-cutting design has cutting teeth at the end of the tool, so it can be fed straight into the workpiece like a drill bit." I'm hoping this feature will help make step "g" on page 16 easier.

Here's a product that appears to be a possible improvement over the McMaster drill stop:

http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00...?ie=UTF8&psc=1

This one clamps on instead of using a set screw. Since the instructions recommend checking the depth between each hole, I'm guessing a better drill stop will be worth the extra penny.
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  #213  
Old 01-13-2014, 11:30 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Hiknefer View Post
Here's the end mill I ended up ordering:

http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00...?ie=UTF8&psc=1

This caught my attention regarding this tool: "The center-cutting design has cutting teeth at the end of the tool, so it can be fed straight into the workpiece like a drill bit." I'm hoping this feature will help make step "g" on page 16 easier.

Here's a product that appears to be a possible improvement over the McMaster drill stop:

http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00...?ie=UTF8&psc=1

This one clamps on instead of using a set screw. Since the instructions recommend checking the depth between each hole, I'm guessing a better drill stop will be worth the extra penny.
(removed typo)

Also to there was some mention of coatings and number of flutes earlier. Coatings are not going to make any appreciable difference in the life of your end mill for this type of work. The only time that is going to benefit you is if your using these tools in a CNC mill for hundreds of hours of production. Also, TIN, AlTin, and TiAIN coatings shouldn't be used for aluminum. They are designed for ferrous alloys and high temps. Aluminum bonds to these coatings, and that is not good. The point of the coating is to shed aluminum. Practically, it may or make not make any difference for this application, but this is the "text book" answer. For aluminum, TiCN and TIB2 coatings are pretty much the only ones used. But seriously, unless you plan to finish 500 lowers just stick with uncoated carbide and save your $$.

Regarding number of flutes, we didn't test 2 flute end mills but as a rule they are generally not used for finishing operations because they don't leave as good of a surface finish. It may not make any difference for this application, but that is a commonly followed guideline. 3 flute is ideal. Do NOT use 4 flutes because you run into the problem of the flutes clogging with aluminum.
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Last edited by 80% Arms; 01-20-2014 at 1:08 PM..
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  #214  
Old 01-14-2014, 5:30 AM
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[QUOTE= For aluminum, TiCN and TIB2 coatings are pretty much the only ones used. [/QUOTE]

You should try out some ZrN (Zirconium Nitride) coated tools, you can really push those through aluminum and they last!
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  #215  
Old 01-14-2014, 9:05 AM
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Originally Posted by 80% Arms View Post
You'll need to be really, really careful with that end mill. It has a 1.25 inch flute length, which is going to greatly increase chances of chewing up the jig. If you can get anything with 1 inch or less flute length it would be much better.
Now I'm very confused. The "EASY JIG INFORMATION" page recommends the McMaster end mill with 1.5 inch flutes and says, "Max flute length is 1.5 inches, shorter flutes ok."

So what it looks like to me is that 80% Arms is recommending a 1.5 inch flute (McMaster part number 88815A44), cautioning against a 1.25 inch flute length, and recommending 1 inch or less flute length. Does that mean 80% Arms is cautioning even more against the McMaster part than the 1.25 inch flute part? If so, why recommend it? What am I missing?
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  #216  
Old 01-14-2014, 3:37 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Hiknefer View Post
Now I'm very confused. The "EASY JIG INFORMATION" page recommends the McMaster end mill with 1.5 inch flutes and says, "Max flute length is 1.5 inches, shorter flutes ok."

So what it looks like to me is that 80% Arms is recommending a 1.5 inch flute (McMaster part number 88815A44), cautioning against a 1.25 inch flute length, and recommending 1 inch or less flute length. Does that mean 80% Arms is cautioning even more against the McMaster part than the 1.25 inch flute part? If so, why recommend it? What am I missing?
I had to check this myself after reading your post. Read from page 12 of the manual. You begin with the end mill by roughing out the center area around the previously drilled out holes. You won't come anywhere near the edge of the jig until the finishing passes and by that point the shank of the end mill will act as a bearing surface on the top edge of the jig. The flutes will have cleared the jig by that point. The spacer between the jig top and jig main plates is inset from the jig and will never touch the flutes.

80% Arms - please get on your video production or maybe upload some raw footage in the meantime. It's been over a month since the initial projected upload date and I'm waiting to see the video before starting even though I have my jig and lower.

Thanks
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  #217  
Old 01-17-2014, 4:04 AM
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will you do a group buy on the lowers? we would also buy the jig...
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  #218  
Old 01-17-2014, 2:51 PM
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Has there been any progress on a video?
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  #219  
Old 01-17-2014, 9:23 PM
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Quote:
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Has there been any progress on a video?
Same question here.
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  #220  
Old 01-18-2014, 9:50 AM
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Has there been any progress on a video?
Being in the LA area you'd think they wouldn't have any problem finding a company that could edit a video of this size in a LOT less time than this.
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  #221  
Old 01-20-2014, 7:40 AM
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Not that I'm worried or anything, but havent heard a Peep from anyone about this in a while..
any News from the Front?
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  #222  
Old 01-20-2014, 7:54 AM
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Originally Posted by Mitch J View Post
Not that I'm worried or anything, but havent heard a Peep from anyone about this in a while..
any News from the Front?
Well, here is whats happening on my end... Ordered 12/4/13, shipped on the 3rd of Jan, one plate was damaged (maybe in shipping) then I received an email from 80% arms saying there were some bad batches of the side plates, I checked and sure enough I have a bad plate. They were supposed to send replacements, haven't received anything yet, I am going to end up returning the jig, the router and the bits I purchased. I purchased over $1k in lowers in the past and they were great but I haven't been having good luck with this jig, maybe I will buy one again in the future when there is a video and all issues have been fixed.
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  #223  
Old 01-20-2014, 1:18 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Hiknefer View Post
Now I'm very confused. The "EASY JIG INFORMATION" page recommends the McMaster end mill with 1.5 inch flutes and says, "Max flute length is 1.5 inches, shorter flutes ok."

So what it looks like to me is that 80% Arms is recommending a 1.5 inch flute (McMaster part number 88815A44), cautioning against a 1.25 inch flute length, and recommending 1 inch or less flute length. Does that mean 80% Arms is cautioning even more against the McMaster part than the 1.25 inch flute part? If so, why recommend it? What am I missing?

Sorry for the confusion, posted after a long day at 12:30 AM and evidently did not drink enough coffee before doing so 1.5 in flue length is ok, manual is written around that. Shorter flute lengths are optimal but difficult to find. 1.25 inches is perfectly usable. We're making some custom end mills made that will have a shorter flute length and be a bit cheaper than McMaster, but don't have an ETA on that yet. Apologize for the typo in the quoted post.
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  #224  
Old 01-20-2014, 2:21 PM
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Update on video:

Still in progress. We decided to make some minor changes to emphasize and clarify critical parts of the instructions. This should prevent very easily avoidable mistakes from being made. Most of our staff was at Shot Show last week so that set us back a little further. We will have it posted for you guys as soon as we possibly can. Just want it to be perfect and not come out rushed. Sorry that it is taking longer than we originally expected.
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  #225  
Old 01-21-2014, 8:16 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 80% Arms View Post
Sorry for the confusion, posted after a long day at 12:30 AM and evidently did not drink enough coffee before doing so 1.5 in flue length is ok, manual is written around that. Shorter flute lengths are optimal but difficult to find. 1.25 inches is perfectly usable. We're making some custom end mills made that will have a shorter flute length and be a bit cheaper than McMaster, but don't have an ETA on that yet. Apologize for the typo in the quoted post.
Got it. Thanks.

I found some end mills that have 1" flutes.

http://www.mscdirect.com/webapp/wcs/...oduct/76488634

They're currently in stock, and there's even a coupon code for free shipping: BSRFREE

These are pricier than the McMaster part but if the shorter flute length helps prevent damage to the jig and lower it will be a bargain, especially considering the backorder time now.
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  #226  
Old 01-21-2014, 8:26 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Hiknefer View Post
Got it. Thanks.

I found some end mills that have 1" flutes.

http://www.mscdirect.com/webapp/wcs/...oduct/76488634

They're currently in stock, and there's even a coupon code for free shipping: BSRFREE

These are pricier than the McMaster part but if the shorter flute length helps prevent damage to the jig and lower it will be a bargain, especially considering the backorder time now.
^^Awesome find. Just placed an order (thanks for the coupon code too!) I already have the McMaster 1.5" version, but that right there is going to speed up and make more idiot proof the whole process. Thanks!
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  #227  
Old 01-22-2014, 11:46 AM
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^^Awesome find. Just placed an order (thanks for the coupon code too!) I already have the McMaster 1.5" version, but that right there is going to speed up and make more idiot proof the whole process. Thanks!
I hope it works out. The end mill seems to be a crucial part of this process so I think it's a good idea to find the best tool available. If using a better tool makes the job easier and helps prevent the frustration and expense of having to replace part of the jig and a damaged lower due to an accident I think it's money well spent. I can tell that the guys at 80% Arms are working hard to make success as easy as possible and I hope this helps. Also, the fewer damaged lowers that 80% Arms has to replace, the sooner they can ship my order!
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  #228  
Old 01-22-2014, 12:02 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Hiknefer View Post
I hope it works out. The end mill seems to be a crucial part of this process so I think it's a good idea to find the best tool available. If using a better tool makes the job easier and helps prevent the frustration and expense of having to replace part of the jig and a damaged lower due to an accident I think it's money well spent. I can tell that the guys at 80% Arms are working hard to make success as easy as possible and I hope this helps. Also, the fewer damaged lowers that 80% Arms has to replace, the sooner they can ship my order!
Agreed.

By the way I ordered Tuesday (yesterday) and received the end mill today. Its a very nice tool, for sure. Comparing the two side by side (the McMaster and MSC) shows pretty quickly how much sooner we'll be able to get into the 'safe' zone of the mill

MSC on top, McMaster on the bottom


MSC on top, McMaster on the bottom


PS: that coating color difference should really help see where you're at (safe zone or not) in the low light conditions created by the router when in place on the jig. Very nice.
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Last edited by BigJ; 02-10-2017 at 9:19 AM..
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  #229  
Old 01-23-2014, 7:10 AM
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Originally Posted by Hiknefer View Post
Got it. Thanks.

I found some end mills that have 1" flutes.

http://www.mscdirect.com/webapp/wcs/...oduct/76488634

They're currently in stock, and there's even a coupon code for free shipping: BSRFREE

These are pricier than the McMaster part but if the shorter flute length helps prevent damage to the jig and lower it will be a bargain, especially considering the backorder time now.

Thanks. I ended up ordering one of those as McMaster has yet to ship me the mill I ordered on the 5th.



Edit: Update, the endmill worked great. Completed the lower in a couple hours.

Last edited by Jes; 01-24-2014 at 2:36 PM.. Reason: Update.
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  #230  
Old 01-24-2014, 5:54 PM
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Anyone have a pic of their 80% 80% build yet?
I am ready to go as soon as mine arrives.
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  #231  
Old 01-24-2014, 6:00 PM
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Here ya go:



Functions flawlessly.
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  #232  
Old 01-24-2014, 6:17 PM
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Nice!



I haven't shot mine since I finnished it today but did all the function tests and it did fit on a PSA upper from my other rifle.



I did scratch the heck outta the router plate since the Rigid has a plastic base, aluminum chips got lodged in it.

Oh, and the light on the Rigid is useless as you can't see anything anyway.
One tip I do have, if you have a shop vac, rig it up(tape it to) the buffer tube mount and have it running while routing out the lower. It will make cleanup time much quicker and you won't be clearing chips out of the pocket between depth settings.
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  #233  
Old 01-24-2014, 7:07 PM
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Nice job Guys.
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  #234  
Old 01-28-2014, 7:29 AM
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Thanks for posting the pictures! I didn't think the guns would be visible in photographs or in mirrors.
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  #235  
Old 01-28-2014, 7:40 AM
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Originally Posted by Hiknefer View Post
Thanks for posting the pictures! I didn't think the guns would be visible in photographs or in mirrors.
Funny you should say that. Right after taking the pic, this particular firearm literally rose up, levitated itself out past the ocean breakers and disappeared. Spooky!
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  #236  
Old 01-28-2014, 7:58 AM
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VIDEO???

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  #237  
Old 01-28-2014, 8:17 AM
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VIDEO???

You can't video ghosts. Everyone knows that. Duh.
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  #238  
Old 01-28-2014, 11:48 AM
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Well, I am still waiting for my replacement lower to get to me. But in the mean time, I ran a QD lower through. It seems to have come out just fine. Though I will admit that I ran it through a TM machine jig afterwards with a mill, just to be sure. I didn't pull off any extra material. And the final product is all within specs. So I am guessing that a QD will probably work without the extra trip through the mill as insurance. Just be aware that the bottom of the QD triggerguard sticks out of the bottom of the jig a tiny bit. Be sure that you have that protrusion placed in the vice so that it isn't resting on anything.

-Mb
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Old 01-28-2014, 1:17 PM
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Hey monkey boy do you think they'll work on tm lowers? I have three i haven't done yet and access to this jig.
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Old 01-28-2014, 2:05 PM
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I have no idea. My guess would be no though. The QD has almost the same profile. The TM and other forged lowers usually have larger raised areas around the magazine release that would prevent them from fitting in the jig. I ran into this when I tried to fit another forged lower, and a plastic lower into the jig.

-Mb
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