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  #161  
Old 05-17-2009, 10:37 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by fire65 View Post
Well that defeats the purpose of makeing it to meet California Standard to be able to Have leagal. If you can disassemble it to clean then it doesnt meet it to be leagal unless you had it before the bann and you are registered as a AW.
Given enough time and tools, anything is reversable. The laws do not state that you can't disassemble it to clean, only that it has to be permanently modified so that can only accept 10 rounds. The definition of permanent was discussed in this this document, page 9.
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  #162  
Old 05-20-2009, 12:55 PM
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Because I don't wanna go from this: (_i_) to this: (_O_)
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  #163  
Old 05-23-2009, 11:02 AM
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lol that is pretty funny.
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  #164  
Old 05-31-2009, 9:02 PM
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These work really good. The ones i found in a PC parts drawer were exactly 4 5/8" - By the way... these are computer case slot holders. If you have a desktop PC you probably have 10 or so of these in the back of your computer.

All I had to do was elongate the notch on the small 90deg bent portion of the slot holder to make it fit around the spring attachment hole on the follower. Once that elongated "fork" is placed around the spring hole, insert the spring and presto! you have attached the blocking device... (will add photo)...



As a bonus, the shape of downward facing end is angled in such a way that it prevents it from interfering with the spring.
Anyway, seems to have worked well for me. For permanence you have the usual options...

Last edited by AM9000; 05-31-2009 at 9:26 PM..
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  #165  
Old 05-31-2009, 9:29 PM
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Nice use of "found materials." If someone doesn't have that stuff laying around, they can spend about a buck twenty and try my option - check it out here.
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  #166  
Old 06-10-2009, 10:40 AM
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go to calegalmags and just get a 10/20 or 10/30 mag and not have to deal with modifying it yourself.
They are the best modifications in the industry.
Cant even tell they are blocked and they weigh no more than normal.

Just be sure that LEO can not open them or reverse them in any way!!!!!!

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  #167  
Old 06-23-2009, 7:01 PM
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Where do you guys get these PMAG rebuild kits? I wanna get some pmags and do this myself but the only places i see sell them as 10/30 and i dont think companies will ship comlete 30 rounders out.
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  #168  
Old 06-23-2009, 7:15 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by SDRuger View Post
Where do you guys get these PMAG rebuild kits? I wanna get some pmags and do this myself but the only places i see sell them as 10/30 and i dont think companies will ship comlete 30 rounders out.
I sell 20, 30 and 30 w/window mags

I do not charge to break them down into kits. I know if they go to CA, HI, MA, NY, MD they need to go as kits.



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  #169  
Old 06-29-2009, 3:37 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by AlohaRover View Post
I sell 20, 30 and 30 w/window mags

I do not charge to break them down into kits. I know if they go to CA, HI, MA, NY, MD they need to go as kits.



PEte
I just ordered a 20 and a 30 from you Pete.

I'll be trying my hand at these projects here pretty soon.
With your instructions it looks to be so easy a caveman can do it, so I'll be just fine.

Do you find more people ordering the 30's?
Cosmetically I find the 20's to just look nicer on the rifles.
Are the 20's harder to find due to high demand or low demand?
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  #170  
Old 07-01-2009, 9:39 PM
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At Golden State Tactical, We use the steel rod, and rivet method. It works great and uses NO GLUE. Both on the 10/20 and 10/30 PMags. Well worth the price and just as permanant as glue. Much cleaner also.

IMHO

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  #171  
Old 07-02-2009, 7:51 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by AM9000 View Post


These work really good. The ones i found in a PC parts drawer were exactly 4 5/8" - By the way... these are computer case slot holders. If you have a desktop PC you probably have 10 or so of these in the back of your computer.

All I had to do was elongate the notch on the small 90deg bent portion of the slot holder to make it fit around the spring attachment hole on the follower. Once that elongated "fork" is placed around the spring hole, insert the spring and presto! you have attached the blocking device... (will add photo)...

As a bonus, the shape of downward facing end is angled in such a way that it prevents it from interfering with the spring.
Anyway, seems to have worked well for me. For permanence you have the usual options...
Then you either rivot or glue these in? I have a TON of these laying around.
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  #172  
Old 08-06-2009, 6:22 PM
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I just used the rivet method to make 5 10/30's, once I determined the drill locations they went together easy as all. I have a bullet button fixed mag so I haven't been able to use these unless I am using my Government issue rifle (LOL) and I've still got 6 mags to turn into the armory when I check out LOL so thats all that matters. I think I have more mags packed away, might need to dig them out.
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  #173  
Old 08-06-2009, 6:28 PM
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Originally Posted by Noonanda View Post
I just used the rivet method to make 5 10/30's, once I determined the drill locations they went together easy as all. I have a bullet button fixed mag so I haven't been able to use these unless I am using my Government issue rifle (LOL) and I've still got 6 mags to turn into the armory when I check out LOL so thats all that matters. I think I have more mags packed away, might need to dig them out.
if anyone is interested i can dig up the site where i found black pop rivets, they look awesome on the mags i make
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  #174  
Old 08-07-2009, 9:13 AM
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Originally Posted by Chunky_lover View Post
if anyone is interested i can dig up the site where i found black pop rivets, they look awesome on the mags i make
have you made any 10/30 ak mags using rivets, Im wanting to do this but dont want to F up a good ak mag
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  #175  
Old 08-07-2009, 9:20 AM
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Originally Posted by Noonanda View Post
have yo

u made any 10/30 ak mags using rivets, Im wanting to do this but dont want to F up a good ak mag
Yes ive made some. There is a hole in the mag body perfect for the rivet, and on the floor plate I drill through and put in a rivet, which also drills through the plate on the bottom of the spring. I use solar tacticals solid 10/30 block, and the hole in the mag body drills through the internal block to lock both together. Nothing moves its all solid , and the black rivets make it all look original to a point. In this pic you can see the rivets, barely. I had recently bought usa floor plates and it was difficult drilling out the rivets, and at the same time removed the block and cut off some as it was only holding 9 rounds, both rivets were difficult to get out, so im sure they will work great and be very hard to take apart, unless drilled out. Its also hard getting the rivet down correctly, I blew through the rest of the ones I had, as my rivet gun would snap them off to early and they would be loose, maybe there is an art to it but I finally got them tight and flush.



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  #176  
Old 08-21-2009, 6:23 PM
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I read through the whole thread and didn't see this addressed...

Is it necessary to put the hole through the "C" in the follower and the rod? Couldn't you just use epoxy to hold the rod in? Or would that not provide enough support to cause it to stop every time?

Thanks!
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  #177  
Old 08-21-2009, 7:35 PM
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without the hole and pin the rod would crack and fall off after time.


vinz
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  #178  
Old 08-21-2009, 7:44 PM
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Originally Posted by Vinz View Post
without the hole and pin the rod would crack and fall off after time.


vinz
Easy enough. I'll pick up some tension pins at Home Depot tomorrow.
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  #179  
Old 08-27-2009, 7:53 PM
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If anyone would rather not spend valuable time making their own blocks, just give me a pm and we can get something figured out.
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  #180  
Old 10-10-2009, 6:46 PM
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How are you able to use this method with a usgi magazine since theres C to fit the rod in?

Last edited by 408teach; 10-10-2009 at 7:02 PM..
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  #181  
Old 10-11-2009, 5:56 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 408teach View Post
How are you able to use this method with a usgi magazine since theres C to fit the rod in?
Use the magpul anti tilt followers. Make up a delrin block that will get pinned and epoxied to the underside of the follower. Cut spring as required.
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  #182  
Old 10-11-2009, 11:43 AM
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Originally Posted by AlohaRover View Post
Use the magpul anti tilt followers. Make up a delrin block that will get pinned and epoxied to the underside of the follower. Cut spring as required.
Hey, Does the magpul anti tilt followers have the C? I thought that was just on the PMAGs? What do you use to pin? How come you would have to cut the spring?
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  #183  
Old 10-11-2009, 12:32 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 408teach View Post
Hey, Does the magpul anti tilt followers have the C? I thought that was just on the PMAGs? What do you use to pin? How come you would have to cut the spring?
No they do not have the C, thats why I suggest a block.

You might not need to cut the spring, that is why I said as required.
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  #184  
Old 10-11-2009, 12:48 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by AlohaRover View Post
No they do not have the C, thats why I suggest a block.

You might not need to cut the spring, that is why I said as required.
[img] http://www.magpul.com/catalog/images/FOLLOWER_02.JPG [/img]
I'm looking at them doesnt seem very feasible to me. where would i put the block and pin it? thanks

Last edited by 408teach; 10-11-2009 at 12:54 PM..
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  #185  
Old 10-11-2009, 1:10 PM
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Originally Posted by 408teach View Post
[img] http://www.magpul.com/catalog/images/FOLLOWER_02.JPG [/img]
I'm looking at them doesnt seem very feasible to me. where would i put the block and pin it? thanks
You don't pin a block; just a dowel.
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  #186  
Old 10-11-2009, 1:42 PM
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You don't pin a block; just a dowel.
sorry guess i misinterpreted. it still doesnt seem like theres much to epoxy the block to. Has anyone done this with a USGI mag that they could share pics?

Last edited by 408teach; 10-12-2009 at 10:37 AM..
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  #187  
Old 10-12-2009, 10:51 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by GearHead View Post
I read through the whole thread and didn't see this addressed...

Is it necessary to put the hole through the "C" in the follower and the rod? Couldn't you just use epoxy to hold the rod in? Or would that not provide enough support to cause it to stop every time?

Thanks!
just my .02 (and some redneck engineering)

I didn't have any 1/8" pins to use, but I did have some 4 penny finishing nails. I cut those into 1/2" long pieces and then used a hot nail to melt a hole in the "C". (Note: held the nail with pliers and heated it over a candle.. went through the plastic "C" like a hot knife through butter)

Held the plastic rod in place and then drilled through the melted hole, rod and the other side of the "C", popped in the pin and epoxied it all together. Worked for me since I didn't have a drill press to do it all nice and easy.

Next batch I do will probably use a little heavier gauge nail since the 4 penny seemed a little on the small side.


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  #188  
Old 10-29-2009, 11:19 AM
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Originally Posted by 408teach View Post
I'm looking at them doesnt seem very feasible to me. where would i put the block and pin it? thanks
Cut the block into a T shape.
Drill and pin where I drew the red line.
Seems pretty straight forward.
Attached Images
File Type: jpg FOLLOWER_02.jpg (18.8 KB, 140 views)
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  #189  
Old 11-12-2009, 1:02 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by AM9000 View Post


These work really good. The ones i found in a PC parts drawer were exactly 4 5/8" - By the way... these are computer case slot holders. If you have a desktop PC you probably have 10 or so of these in the back of your computer.

All I had to do was elongate the notch on the small 90deg bent portion of the slot holder to make it fit around the spring attachment hole on the follower. Once that elongated "fork" is placed around the spring hole, insert the spring and presto! you have attached the blocking device... (will add photo)...



As a bonus, the shape of downward facing end is angled in such a way that it prevents it from interfering with the spring.
Anyway, seems to have worked well for me. For permanence you have the usual options...
Has anyone else tried this method? How effective was it? Thanks in advance for your responses!

Edit: To elongate the notch, was that easy to Dremel out?

Edit 2: Tried this for an hour today and all I've got to show for it is a massive headache. AM9000 can you please post more pics of the slot cover/bracket, how much you dremeled out and at which points and if at all possible steps you took to get it under the spring? Here's a shot of my bracket piece and for the life of me I can't get the spring to go over it, or slide it under the spring (I tried both ways)


Last edited by calcul8; 11-12-2009 at 6:09 PM..
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  #190  
Old 12-05-2009, 8:39 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by AlohaRover View Post
Cut the block into a T shape.
Drill and pin where I drew the red line.
Seems pretty straight forward.
One more question on pinning is this for strength as the epoxy sees strong enough to hold the plastic in place or is it more to indicate permanence? thanks again
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  #191  
Old 03-05-2010, 8:48 AM
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Did this build and it worked flawlessly... except it's definitely 4-5/8" with the new p-mags I have. The 11th round will just barely depress the 10th but won't go in. As for the epoxy, you don't need near that much. Just roll the end in a small puddle place it and put the pin in. This beats buying the factory 10/30's for $30.
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  #192  
Old 03-10-2010, 5:53 PM
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I have to admit I haven't read all 191 posts in this thread but after doing a search I still can't find any information about how to permanently seal the floor plates on these pmags? What is the preffered method you guys are using, epoxy, JB Weld, rivets etc.....
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  #193  
Old 03-10-2010, 5:59 PM
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Is permanently sealing it required by CA law? Or is it something like the Raddlock where it only has to be a low-cap mag to be CA-legal in CA, but can still be returned to normal-capacity if taken out of CA?
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  #194  
Old 04-08-2010, 8:14 PM
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Props to the OP...this mod works flawlessly. I got new MagLevel PMag's and it is definately 4 5/8. Picked up some brass hollow rods from Ace Hardware and they work perfect!
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  #195  
Old 04-10-2010, 7:05 PM
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"The idea is good but how bout after you drill the hole roll pin it so it can be undone if you ever leave the state no gluey mess
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  #196  
Old 04-27-2010, 3:20 PM
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Thinking about pickup up some PMAG rebuilds to do this with. The 10/30s I bought work well, but I can't insert them on a closed bolt. I figure doing it this way should give me enough play to insert it on a closed bolt when full. Thanks for the info OP
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  #197  
Old 05-01-2010, 6:02 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by BlueGhillie View Post
Did this build and it worked flawlessly... except it's definitely 4-5/8" with the new p-mags I have. The 11th round will just barely depress the 10th but won't go in. As for the epoxy, you don't need near that much. Just roll the end in a small puddle place it and put the pin in. This beats buying the factory 10/30's for $30.
A toothpick can be used to apply the epoxy HOWEVER, I have found that dropping the mag on the floorplate or subjecting it to physical shock WILL break the bond. I believe this is due to Magpul using a Teflon additive in the PMAG polymer. I have since switched away from epoxy and now insert a stainless steel roll pin in the baseplate.
Quote:
Originally Posted by SoCalRandy View Post
I have to admit I haven't read all 191 posts in this thread but after doing a search I still can't find any information about how to permanently seal the floor plates on these pmags? What is the preffered method you guys are using, epoxy, JB Weld, rivets etc.....
My preferred method is a roll pin in the baseplate. It's inconspicuous but robust.
Quote:
Originally Posted by JT1989 View Post
Thinking about pickup up some PMAG rebuilds to do this with. The 10/30s I bought work well, but I can't insert them on a closed bolt. I figure doing it this way should give me enough play to insert it on a closed bolt when full. Thanks for the info OP
Be careful with this. The polymer that PMAGs are made of WILL flex about 1-2mm and it only takes 2.5mm to slip the next round in. The ability to load on a closed bolt can result in your 10rd mag being able to accept an 11th (will not feed but the law is how many can it accept, not how many can it feed).
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  #198  
Old 08-27-2010, 1:59 AM
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I know this is an old thread, im sort of skimmed through it for the answer to my question.

Why do i have to seal the whole mag closed? If i epoxy a rod under the follower, the mag at that point is a 10 round permanent magazine. Now the argument is that i can dismantle the magazine and add in a new follower without the rod. At this point, the magazine has been dismantled and is now a rebuild kit which is legal to own. Putting in a new follower and assembling a 30 round magazine from that point would be a crime. But prior to it being dismantled, it was legal. Does anyone get what I'm trying to say?
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  #199  
Old 08-27-2010, 8:04 AM
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calcul8 calcul8 is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by jink122 View Post
I know this is an old thread, im sort of skimmed through it for the answer to my question.

Why do i have to seal the whole mag closed? If i epoxy a rod under the follower, the mag at that point is a 10 round permanent magazine. Now the argument is that i can dismantle the magazine and add in a new follower without the rod. At this point, the magazine has been dismantled and is now a rebuild kit which is legal to own. Putting in a new follower and assembling a 30 round magazine from that point would be a crime. But prior to it being dismantled, it was legal. Does anyone get what I'm trying to say?
CA mag laws:

http://www.calegalmags.com/cmagla.html
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  #200  
Old 09-11-2010, 8:42 PM
BAGunner BAGunner is offline
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I agree with you on this. I don't see the point epoxying the end plate.

Quote:
Originally Posted by jink122 View Post
I know this is an old thread, im sort of skimmed through it for the answer to my question.

Why do i have to seal the whole mag closed? If i epoxy a rod under the follower, the mag at that point is a 10 round permanent magazine. Now the argument is that i can dismantle the magazine and add in a new follower without the rod. At this point, the magazine has been dismantled and is now a rebuild kit which is legal to own. Putting in a new follower and assembling a 30 round magazine from that point would be a crime. But prior to it being dismantled, it was legal. Does anyone get what I'm trying to say?
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