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  #1  
Old 01-04-2016, 9:28 PM
BDJ BDJ is offline
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Default 1911 Goverment to Commander frame mod...

When I purchased my 1911 80% frames all they had in stock were Government frames and so I purchased a few thinking at some point I would just modify one to be a commander frame.

Does anyone know if I shorten the rails and dust cover by .100" will that make it a commander frame?
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  #2  
Old 01-04-2016, 9:52 PM
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This picture should show you the differences:



It's NOT just the rails and dustcover.
It's also that surface down below the rails where the guide rod seats.
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Last edited by ar15barrels; 01-04-2016 at 9:58 PM..
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  #3  
Old 01-04-2016, 9:57 PM
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There is no picture?
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Old 01-04-2016, 9:59 PM
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It's there for me.
Try this link.
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Old 01-04-2016, 10:05 PM
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dang...when i click it, it says not found. Weird.
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Old 01-04-2016, 10:16 PM
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Here is a different one:


Look specifically at the distance between the slide stop pin and the surface where the guide rod seats.
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  #7  
Old 01-04-2016, 10:20 PM
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ahh hah...Got it. So there is a bit of work to be done. So looks like the dust cover, slide rails, guide rod face seat and the slot for barrel link. Maybe i just wait and buy a commander frame =) Thanks for the pics
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Old 01-05-2016, 8:03 AM
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Given the growing popularity of 80% 1911 builds, I'm sure you'll be able to sell those government frames. 1911builders had a limited run of bobtailed commander frames available now. Get 'em soon before they run out.
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Old 01-05-2016, 1:49 PM
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The guide rod abutment is set deeper in the frame.



Commander slides, due to being so much shorter in the front, will still need to have a decent length of the Spring Plug tunnel, which then extends past where Government Spring Plug Tunnel goes. So, to allow the slide to go far enough back to eject the rounds, the abutment in the frame has to go back as well.

Also note that the Slide stop notch in commander slides is farther back in the slide than on the government slide. Again, because the slide doesn't travel as far back, the notch has to go back a bit. and the small notch used to take the Slide stop out and put it back in is really far back on commander slide.

I saved and resized the image.


I have seen people talk about some commander builds being possible on Gov frames, so if you are willing to risk it, go for it. It might be possible. If I got a commander slide, I would certainly try, but the spring plug tunnel would have to be shortened at the back on that slide, just enough to let the Slide Stop engage, and a little more backward movement to allow the slide stop to disengage. This total amount of backward movement should then be enough to eject casings. And if not, I would be looking for a really long extended ejector to cut to proper length.
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Last edited by MosinVirus; 01-05-2016 at 2:01 PM..
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  #10  
Old 01-05-2016, 2:00 PM
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Just take a government slide and cut it back to commander length to use on the government frame.
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Old 01-05-2016, 2:02 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by USPSA GM View Post
Just take a government slide and cut it back to commander length to use on the government frame.
With a bull barrel I assume?
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Old 01-05-2016, 2:44 PM
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Or cut of the front, shorten it as needed and reweld it back on if you want to keep the bushing design.

Or, keep a look-out for one of these top-ends:


I got this out of Shotgun News about 10 years ago.
Commander length slide kit to fit a Gov't frame.
Comes complete with barrel and recoil spring set-up.
Snug fit, minor fitting was needed.
Works 100%.
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Old 01-05-2016, 8:55 PM
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What I'd like to know is when will an 80% frame maker going to offer an officer size frame... I want to build a ccw piece to go with my license!
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  #14  
Old 01-05-2016, 9:36 PM
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Thanks for all the feedback. I think i will keep the Government frame as is and just wait for a commander. Im not very fond of the bobtail frames, so ill just wait for the standard to come around.
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Old 01-06-2016, 4:04 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by BJasemian View Post
Thanks for all the feedback. I think i will keep the Government frame as is and just wait for a commander. Im not very fond of the bobtail frames, so ill just wait for the standard to come around.
Making the modifications really isnt that hard if you have a mill. You just need a long end mill. My shortened government frame works great.

I vote you go for it

ETA: These frames were identical before I modified the commander. The front of the rails were cut in the same jig you would use to cut the rails. I then held the frame vertically and used a .625" end mill to recut the spring guide seat. Lastly I used a countersink on an extension to recut the chamfer.



And the end result is a stainless bob-tailed 40SW commander.

Last edited by Lostsheep; 01-06-2016 at 4:55 PM..
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  #16  
Old 01-06-2016, 9:33 PM
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bravo bravo, nice work. SO the rails and spring guide seat are cut back .100" and the dust shield is cut back .250"?
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Old 01-06-2016, 10:47 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by BJasemian View Post
bravo bravo, nice work. SO the rails and spring guide seat are cut back .100" and the dust shield is cut back .250"?
Rails and seat are .100" but I am not too sure exactly how much I took off of the cover as I just eyeballed it .
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