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Firearms Accessories: Holsters, Safes, Lights & more If it locks up, carries, fits on to or cleans up your firearms, discuss it here.

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  #41  
Old 04-19-2014, 11:29 PM
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Thanks to this thread I was able to make a very solid base for my safe on top of my post-tensioned slab. I scored the existing slab using the OP's method, created a form that perfectly fit the upper edge of the existing slab line, cut and tied rebar to the rebar spacers, painted on the concrete adhesive and poured the high-strength concrete all in about a day and a half. The hardest part was loading the 12 bags of concrete into the truck at Lowes!

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I beg to differ. The full length dust cover rail makes a world of difference in the "when I run out of bullets I'm going to beat you to death with the pistol" look that causes bad guys to run in fear, and lesser men to feel inadequate. It looks just plain beastly and the extra heft up front does help manage recoil a bit better. Plus, an angel told me that when God called JMB to heaven it was to build him a full rail 1911!
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  #42  
Old 05-26-2014, 1:11 AM
Vz58man Vz58man is offline
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Very cool thread. I trust Ops knowledge on the matter. Seems like a safe and well done venture. What are your opinions on securing closet safes?
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  #43  
Old 05-27-2014, 7:07 PM
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Originally Posted by Vz58man View Post
Very cool thread. I trust Ops knowledge on the matter. Seems like a safe and well done venture. What are your opinions on securing closet safes?
I would only put a safe somewhere you can secure it to the slab, so for that reason closets are out for me. If you have a floor with joists in it, then lagging it to a joist will probably do as well as you could.
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Securing a safe to a Post-tension slab - DIY

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eh why bring logic into this, that makes too much sense... besides when you have bested a fool, you have accomplished nothing and he is a fool.
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  #44  
Old 07-06-2014, 12:36 PM
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Thank you for this DIY.
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  #45  
Old 05-19-2016, 8:27 PM
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Originally Posted by paul0660 View Post
drilling a two inch deep hole in any concrete is going to snap a tendon as often as airliners having a head on. Use epoxy to secure the anchors, not redheads.

Too much rebar, too many dobies (they create a void). Mesh pulled up to the middle of the pour would have been ten times better.

But, a good training project for sure.
I guess I'm with stupid,

Only 40 years fixing stuff and I wonder how many here have actually hit rebar drilling concrete?

http://www.ptia.org.au/Documents/PTI...labs_Dec14.pdf

"Class 1 (Small Drilled Hole no tendons cut)
Minimal risk to structural integrity
Penetration size is 20mm or less and does not cut tendons. e.g. post drilled fixings.

This type of penetration may be made anywhere in the structure, however the
design of the inserting element is to be carried out by a competent engineer and
resultant forces checked on the slab capacity remembering that PT slabs often have
minimal conventional reinforcement."

http://www.amsyscoinc.com/2010/01/29...nsion-strands/

Tendons are about 4 times as strong as rebar and consist of 7 strands so damaging all seven, well that's kinda like that head on jet airliner deal if you're using a cheap Home Depot carbide bit and a regular drill. You ain't getting thru it, really, do you even lift?

Most engineers never had a pair of knee pads on in their lives but I can assure you they can design stuff that can't be washed or used properly.

Drill baby Drill

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  #46  
Old 06-10-2016, 12:27 AM
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very informative writeup
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  #47  
Old 06-10-2016, 12:30 AM
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it is quite risky, drilling. Let professional have a go.
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  #48  
Old 06-15-2016, 9:40 AM
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Originally Posted by carolpalmer View Post
it is quite risky, drilling. Let professional have a go.
You have to be a total moron to actively decide to just blindly drill into a PT slab. However, morons are a source of job security for construction companies worldwide.

+1 to if you don't know, ask a pro.
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Securing a safe to a Post-tension slab - DIY

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eh why bring logic into this, that makes too much sense... besides when you have bested a fool, you have accomplished nothing and he is a fool.
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  #49  
Old 06-15-2016, 9:53 AM
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Good info, Lot of guys would forget the Acryl 60 in the step 8 you provided.
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  #50  
Old 06-15-2016, 4:36 PM
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Did we hire Carol to pump you up?

Sorry but all you've done is applied a bunch of weight to the bottom of your safe. It's not secured to the floor in any way shape or form. Lets not forget that concrete shrinks and will dislocate the adhesion to the slab all by itself over time. You didn't even follow Sika's instruction of a 1/16" fractured surface for adhesion properties. General that needed some mules to direct eh? I doubt that would even work after everything cured and I slam that make shift slab with a sledge a few times jarring my teeth. Then apply a nice 5 ft. pry bar on those corner studs at top of safe (wow the leverage baby) lifting the slab just enough to slide a wedge under it or just drive the steel wedge from the beginning and forget jarring my teeth. Sledge again, timber.

But in all seriousness I would just bring a saw and be inside in less than 3 minutes drinking your beer in the fridge.

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  #51  
Old 06-15-2016, 6:33 PM
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And I really don't care what you say. Your tools are new, you have no practical experience at commercial maintenance for 40 years like me.

I will drive wedges under your slab as sure as the sun rises and tip that beast of a safe over. Been there done that.

I've hit rebar probably a couple dozen times in my life. Just like a safe cracker, I know what it feels like when you do.

(1) call back in 40 years......

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