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  #1  
Old 09-14-2017, 12:31 AM
BajaFishin BajaFishin is offline
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Default P80 PF940CV1 and ZEV Slide issue -

Hi CalGunners,

First of all, is there anyone familiar with PF940C that I can take it to fix the issue? I am frustrated and running out of ideas, I have watched just about every videos on YouTube about PF940C and I have tried every solutions that they suggest and watch out for and I still end up with a system that cost me a lot of time and money.

I have a OEM Glock 19 that is superb reliable, I have put over 1000 rounds with it and not a single hiccup.

scenario - put slide (ZEV) and lower (P80) together (without any upper part kit and lower park kit), just the lower, both rails and blank slide

problem - cock the slide back, slowly move the slide forward with low force, seems stuttering; not slick or smooth like Glock OEM.

I tested with:

Glock lower and ZEV upper OK

PF940C lower and Glock OEM Slide - OK, but magazine drop after few rounds.

P940C with ZEV Slide NO: One shot, ejects fine, won't rack the 2nd round, or jam.

* I have sand and polished front and rear rail
* I have sand and rounded off the rear rail corners
* I have tried 18lb, 15lb, and 13lb recoils springs.
* I have sand and polished the fire pin safety
* bend the ejector pin <- ended up buying another lower park kit, since I also sand the fire pin safety

* Call P80, they send me another rear rail, at first it was smooth, but after 6 rounds, same thing.

I have been working on this everyday for week and the half, neglected my wife and kid, now they hate me, this is expensive hobby and I just wanted to work, and spend time with my family.

Thank you for reading and thank you for the help.

Baja
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  #2  
Old 09-14-2017, 5:06 PM
Druskeezy Druskeezy is offline
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What gen is ur slide?
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  #3  
Old 09-14-2017, 7:16 PM
UclaPeon44 UclaPeon44 is offline
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zev slides fit on the tighter side compared to OEM glock. this is a big issue for home builders of p80 since hand tools use makes it next to impossible to for slide to cycle/function properly.
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  #4  
Old 09-14-2017, 8:23 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by UclaPeon44 View Post
zev slides fit on the tighter side compared to OEM glock. this is a big issue for home builders of p80 since hand tools use makes it next to impossible to for slide to cycle/function properly.
Put another way: The ZEV slides just don't work on P80 frames without a lot more work.

Easy solution is to run the sloppier fitting glock slide on the tighter fitting P80 frame and save the tighter fitting ZEV slide for the sloppier fitting glock frame.
Now you get TWO guns that fit tighter AND work.
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  #5  
Old 09-15-2017, 9:36 AM
BajaFishin BajaFishin is offline
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The ZEV slide is a Gen 3 DragonFly w/RMR.
I really want to get the combo to work. See pictures.

Randall, do you work on the Glocks? or anyone can work on the P80?

Thank you,

Baja
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  #6  
Old 09-15-2017, 9:39 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by BajaFishin View Post
Randall, do you work on the Glocks?
I do barrel and trigger work.
I do not do slide and frame work.
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  #7  
Old 09-15-2017, 10:13 AM
dagle dagle is offline
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Do you have tools to measure? If I recall correctly the rear rail module has slight tolerance. Try it in different positions, it may be off-center from the front rail causing the interference. If the width of the rails are larger than the slide groove widths, you can use a sharpie or dye to see where the interference occurs to file down the rail module(s).

Last edited by dagle; 09-15-2017 at 10:37 AM..
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  #8  
Old 09-15-2017, 12:02 PM
sofbak sofbak is online now
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Also, I suppose if you're advers to cutting/machining you could try lapping them together.
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  #9  
Old 09-16-2017, 4:58 PM
dagle dagle is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by sofbak View Post
Also, I suppose if you're advers to cutting/machining you could try lapping them together.
This works as well, but I respectfully disagree with this simply because it would widen the ZEV slide. I would much rather bring the nonOEM glock frame to OEM glock spec than to bring the slide to nonOEM spec.
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  #10  
Old 09-16-2017, 9:13 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by dagle View Post
This works as well, but I respectfully disagree with this simply because it would widen the ZEV slide. I would much rather bring the nonOEM glock frame to OEM glock spec than to bring the slide to nonOEM spec.
The Zev slide is much tighter than OEM glock slide.
Lapping is not going to make it looser than an OEM block slide.
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  #11  
Old 09-17-2017, 12:54 PM
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Yeah absolutely, I just personally wouldn't modify the expensive slide when I could modify the cheap, untransferrable and replaceable 80% frame is all.
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  #12  
Old 09-21-2017, 11:41 AM
BajaFishin BajaFishin is offline
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I just got a caliper measuring tool which I think it's a must have if you're building out any 80% platform. This time I ensure the front and rear rails are equal in heights. I re-sand it and polish it for 30min, it seems slick and better. I will report back the update when next range trip.

Also, just a note, I tried the ZEV slide on a friend's PF940C lower and it's freaking tight and barely move. But he has the P80 compact upper and it's slick and smooth. I think for those who wants the cool look of ZEV slide paired with P80 lower, it's going needs a lot of work.
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  #13  
Old 09-22-2017, 5:35 AM
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Default Zev slides

the Zev slides will require the Poly 80 locking block rails and/or Rear Rail module both to be reduced in size. And they must be in perfect alignment. This is compounded by some parts variances and so much more fitting is required.

If using a Zev slide you will want to dedicate that lower to just that slide. The one I saw needed the front rails mildly polished but the rear rail module needed MAJOR thinning in height and in length. Think half thickness, and edges trimmed and beveled to allow cycling without binding.
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  #14  
Old 09-23-2017, 10:19 PM
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dagle and Bladewurk are correct.

I built this exact combo and had the exact problem you are.

The rear rail is most likely the problem. Make sure they are 90 degrees from the vertical flats and polish them good.

After installing the rear rail, use a small, thin file in the rail groove. Don't go crazy with it just make sure it's the same front to rear on each side and smooth.

That should take care of your problem.

And use the stock strength spring.
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  #15  
Old 09-28-2017, 7:28 PM
BajaFishin BajaFishin is offline
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Update -

I think I finally have a functional gun (not reliable but functional and still improving on it). I put over 300 rounds in 2 hours yesterday, still having some issues, but at least it cycles now.

I was having just about every issue with the P80 that everyone has -

Here is the list and fix -

* ZEV Slide - really tight fit and not a good combination with PF940C, if you want a drop in slide without all the work, just get an OEM slide or P80's compact slide.

* Front and rear rails - make sure to sand them and polish them, make sure the height are the same, sand it down if necessary and make sure they are slick.

* Guide rod spring - original 18LB having a hard time cycling, 15LB be perfect (at least for my build)

* Guide rod pocket side wall on the lower frame - Make sure the guide rod can move freely and smooth on the lower frame, I had to sand the side wall down to fit the custom guide rod; the OEM fits fine without prior sanding it.

* Ejector - Replace the ejector with Gen 4 for better brass ejection, so it won't hit your face.

* Polish the firing pin safety on the trigger bar (do not sand it).

* Polish the connector nob - I replace it with 3.5 LB polish ghost connector.

* Barrel - Get the OEM. Some custom barrels require some breaking time; my Wheaton arms barrel was one of the main problems, I had to do some sanding and polish to make it run smooth.

* Slide release - At around 200 round count, every time I fire, the slide would lock back with rounds in the magazine (Yes I verified it was install correctly), the spring pin was somehow broke at the end, so it's not strong enough to push the slide lever down. Replace it with the new one. <-- This is what I need to verify for the next range trip. I think after I replace the slide release extension, it will be 100% reliable.

* Replace all the PINs on the frame, this is the 2nd set, since it's gold color, and I dissembled at least 30 time (with all the troubleshooting I had to go through), the pins became silver and dented.

* Get a sight tools - I spend half of day without the tools just trying to get the front and rear sight install, I end up got one and took me 10 min to reinstall it.

* Magazine drop while firing - While most people have problem with magazine sticky, mine have problem magazine drop while firing, I have 4 magazines, only 1 that didn't drop; guess I'll be using that one then.

So with this project, if I knew, how much I will end up spending, I wouldn't do it, the money I spend, I could bought 2x Glock 19 and more. I replaced the trigger 3 times; trigger housing twice, connector, Pins, slide stop, rear rail, tools and hours and days of my time. But I can say I'm a Glock expert now, at least for G19.

It is my hope that this thread and this post will someday help someone solved issues like I having.
Thank you for reading. I will update again once I got it run reliably.

Baja
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  #16  
Old 09-28-2017, 9:30 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by BajaFishin View Post
So with this project, if I knew, how much I will end up spending, I wouldn't do it, the money I spend, I could bought 2x Glock 19 and more.
Remember, it's not about the money, it's about being able to say you built it yourself...

Anyone can go buy a stock G19 for less than half of what you spent and it will work right out of the box.
How fun is that?
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Old 09-29-2017, 4:51 AM
swiftone swiftone is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by BajaFishin View Post
Update -

I was having just about every issue with the P80 that everyone has -

Baja
Baja,

I understand that you used some high end parts, but not everyone had the "issues with the P80 that everyone has" Mine was built with 100% stock Glock Gen 3 parts and has run 100% since the very first magazine.

Seems like a lot of your problems were brought upon yourself. Kind of like building a race car. You expect to tune it before it gives best performance

I am at 2550 documented rounds fired with ZERO problems. Ammo has been factory and my reloads.
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  #18  
Old 09-30-2017, 9:40 AM
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First off good job OP, also could you post more pics of the guys rod slot to give us a better view?
Built not bought
Vs bought not built
Whatever you pick ain't cheap.

I say it's easier to send a glock out to get customized but where's the fun in that?
Either way custom glocks ain't cheap.
A glock 19 usually costs 520+tax,+dros+time and gas.
So around 600.
A sec slide 400+ depending what you want.
I wish BCE, Voodoo/Adams arms, and pws still make glock slides they were cheaper than mpstbother custom slides and I don't have a need for reddot.
Either way guns
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Old 10-09-2017, 2:58 PM
BajaFishin BajaFishin is offline
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Here is the update -

But first of all, thank you everyone for the input.

PachecoFTW, please see attachments for some photos of the guide rod bay. For most of the custom guide rods, you'll probably need to sand down the side wall to make the guide rod flow smoothly. Feel free to let me know if you have question, I'm glad to help.

I went to the range and send 100 rounds down range. It was near perfect. I rapid fire 2 x 10 rounds mags, it ran flawlessly. Of 100 rounds, I only have one that when I pull the trigger, and nothing happened, I took the round out and fire it again and it ran. I don't know what happened there, maybe it didn't reset. But other than that, I think I have a systems that can run now.

I think one of the problem is the barrel; the barrel is from Wheaton Arms custom match barrel, DO NOT consider to get them for your custom build, the edges are jag and sharp, it requires long time to break in which cause some cycling issue. Get something else for your build.

All in all, it was a good learning experience, but for me, it was too much frustration; I'm a very patient guy, but this had me on the edge. I don't want to go through it again, my next one will be a G26, and it will be coming from my local store, fully functional and reliable out of the box.

I'll updated again when I have this thing run like a reliable G19.

Thank you,

Baja
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  #20  
Old 10-09-2017, 5:01 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by BajaFishin View Post
I think one of the problem is the barrel; the barrel is from Wheaton Arms custom match barrel,
the edges are jag and sharp, it requires long time to break in which cause some cycling issue.
Deburring of the sharp edges is part of a properly fitting job on a match-fit barrel.
There is no reason for the manufacturer to deburr the edges if the person doing the fitting is going to to be working on those surfaces.
That's why they can leave them sharp.

The person fitting the barrel would normally break all the sharp edges after the fitting work is done.
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Last edited by ar15barrels; 10-09-2017 at 5:04 PM..
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  #21  
Old 10-18-2017, 5:07 AM
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PachecoFTW PachecoFTW is offline
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Cool thanks for the extra pics, my friend kept asking how much material should he remove.
I suggested until the guide rod just moved freely.
Your pics help since he has too much material that the guide rod still doesn't move.
Btw, was it your glock with the suarez slide?
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  #22  
Old 10-18-2017, 10:55 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by PachecoFTW View Post
I wish BCE, Voodoo/Adams arms, and pws still make glock slides they were cheaper than mpstbother custom slides and I don't have a need for reddot.
Either way guns


PachecoFTW, Brownells sells custom slides that are not overly gaudy with optic cuts and carbon fiber cover plates. They are going for $195 right now. If you want slightly more cuts but still somewhat "sensible", check out Shadow systems' slides. I know P80 has good slides also, but for some reason I can't stand giant "billboards" with their name/logo on parts...
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