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  #1  
Old 07-22-2018, 8:35 PM
tomcat315 tomcat315 is offline
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Arrow Ruger gp100 upgrade questions.

I just purchased a Ruger gp100 with a 6" barrel new from a store. I would Like to upgrade the springs for a real smooth DA pull but I don't want a hair trigger in SA. I am looking at the Wilson Combat kit. I would like some advice on what poundage springs you guys suggest. The best way I can describe what I want it to say I want the gun to feel like a Smith 686. There is a reason I chose the Ruger so I wont get into that. The springs in the kit are:

mainsprings : 9 10 and 12 lbs
trigger rebound: 8 and 10 lbs

I reload my own 357 and I use CCI primers. I could switch to softer federal or Win but id rather not. I should not have to if the spring is proper anyway.
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  #2  
Old 07-22-2018, 8:46 PM
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Based on my experience with a S&W 500, if you want a lighter trigger, you may have to use Winchester primers. CCI's wouldn't work when I lightened the trigger.

I'm not sure you can get the exact same feel with the Ruger as the S&W due to the different springs.
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Old 07-22-2018, 9:01 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Win231 View Post
Based on my experience with a S&W 500, if you want a lighter trigger, you may have to use Winchester primers. CCI's wouldn't work when I lightened the trigger.

I'm not sure you can get the exact same feel with the Ruger as the S&W due to the different springs.
The 686 is more of a reference to give people an idea of what I want.

I tried the trigger at the store and it felt smoother than a new but older model at another store. The older models have the wood inside the rubber on the grip. The newer ones are just rubber grips. Ive heard rumors that the older ones have 14 lbs mainspring and the newer ones a 12lbs mainspring. The one I bought is already fairly smooth. Smoother than the older model . But I suppose that could be many things.
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  #4  
Old 07-22-2018, 9:04 PM
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GP100- how are the chambers in the clyinder?

They make a polishing kit so empties slide out like silk......
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Old 07-22-2018, 9:16 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by hermosabeach View Post
GP100- how are the chambers in the clyinder?

They make a polishing kit so empties slide out like silk......
Honestly I didn't look. But I did notice metal chips that still need to be removed from an end mill cut on the frame. I imagine when I take the gun apart a few things might need deburring. I'm also picking up some polish.
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  #6  
Old 07-22-2018, 9:20 PM
eaglemike eaglemike is offline
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By the time you get a really good double action trigger, almost any single action trigger will feel very light.

I'd encourage you to learn to do all revolver shooting double action, unless you are doing long range target (or shooting a SA only wheelgun). You likely won't need to do anything other than double action if you really practice. It's also much more useable in the real world. The standard ICORE target is the NRA D1. You should be able to hold the center ring pretty easily shooting slow fire, double action, at 25 yards with some steady practice. Then try to find a place where you can practice at 50 yeards, or use a reduced size target. ICORE= International Confederation of Revolver Enthusiasts. If you want to get really good find your local iCORE chapter and shoot with them. The good ICORE guys are amazing.

Federal would be the softer between WW and Federal.

I don't know any good GP100 'smiths, unfortunately. I'm sure there are some out there.

Good luck!
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  #7  
Old 07-22-2018, 9:22 PM
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Most of the tuned Smiths and Rugers that I have shot need to use Federal primers for reliable ignition.
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  #8  
Old 07-22-2018, 9:27 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by tomcat315 View Post
I just purchased a Ruger gp100 with a 6" barrel new from a store. I would Like to upgrade the springs for a real smooth DA pull but I don't want a hair trigger in SA. I am looking at the Wilson Combat kit. I would like some advice on what poundage springs you guys suggest. The best way I can describe what I want it to say I want the gun to feel like a Smith 686. There is a reason I chose the Ruger so I wont get into that. The springs in the kit are:

mainsprings : 9 10 and 12 lbs
trigger rebound: 8 and 10 lbs

I reload my own 357 and I use CCI primers. I could switch to softer federal or Win but id rather not. I should not have to if the spring is proper anyway.
I had a Ruger GP100 4" a few years back and made it into a really smooth nice revolver. I followed advice from Iowegan on Rugerforum.net. I don't know if the information is still available. It involves taking the revolver apart (which is easy) and smoothing and deburring all the mating surfaces on the gun. I added trigger shims (triggershims.com) to reduce side to side play and added new springs but didn't go drastic.

I can't remember the exact Wolff springs I used but if I remember correctly I kept the mainspring at 12 lb and the trigger rebound spring at 10 lb. with smoothing out the burrs and action, the gun felt way smoother. With lighter springs, the gun felt sluggish and lethargic. I would not change to much lighter springs, especially the trigger rebound spring. It made my gun feel like crap. You want the trigger to snap back fast after shots, not slow.

Smooth the gun out and you will be good and love the gun. Sometimes I regret selling the one I had. I figure I can always replace it. If I bought a new one, I would immediately work on it to make it into a nice smooth shooter.

I also polished and radiused the trigger to make it into a dream trigger that was super comfortable.

You can turn your stock GP100 into a smooth gun easily.

Last edited by jdg30; 07-22-2018 at 9:31 PM..
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  #9  
Old 07-22-2018, 9:50 PM
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With all due respect, I suggest putting at least 1,000 + rounds (half 38spl half 357mag) downrange before you change a thing on your GP100.

I've been a S&W K frame guy for over 45 years and my newer GP100 4" stainless untouched DA (approx. 2,500 rds downrange) is real close to the smoothest DA of any of Smiths I've ever owned.

Shoot the gun. Wear it in.

Good Luck.
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  #10  
Old 07-22-2018, 10:09 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Mr. Beretta View Post
With all due respect, I suggest putting at least 1,000 + rounds (half 38spl half 357mag) downrange before you change a thing on your GP100.

I've been a S&W K frame guy for over 45 years and my newer GP100 4" stainless untouched DA (approx. 2,500 rds downrange) is real close to the smoothest DA of any of Smiths I've ever owned.

Shoot the gun. Wear it in.

Good Luck.
I would agree. You don't need to change springs. If you do, do it minimally. Smoothing out burrs can be done by hand or by using the gun a lot. The GP100 is easy to work on and smooth out. Honestly the GP100 I had was one of the smoothest revolvers I've ever had. Shooting it a lot will smooth it out better than messing with springs. Messing with springs will increase the chances of unreliability.
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  #11  
Old 07-24-2018, 8:33 PM
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Ok guys. you have convinced me. I might smooth out some internals but there wont be any spring changing. Anyone have pictures or videos of the essentials burs to look for? I think ill skip the shims too.
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  #12  
Old 07-24-2018, 8:52 PM
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https://www.geminicustoms.com/ruger-revolvers/

Don't be scared by the prices, in my experience he will work with you. Made my GP !00 an entirely different animal.

Last edited by Nick Adams; 07-24-2018 at 8:54 PM..
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  #13  
Old 07-25-2018, 1:36 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Mr. Beretta View Post
With all due respect, I suggest putting at least 1,000 + rounds (half 38spl half 357mag) downrange before you change a thing on your GP100.



I've been a S&W K frame guy for over 45 years and my newer GP100 4" stainless untouched DA (approx. 2,500 rds downrange) is real close to the smoothest DA of any of Smiths I've ever owned.



Shoot the gun. Wear it in.



Good Luck.


This.
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  #14  
Old 07-25-2018, 7:32 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by mj1 View Post
Shoot it then shoot it some more. At around 400 to 500 rounds it will level out and then and ONLY then will you know if you want to shim the trigger, hammer and hammer strut. It will never be an S&W but then it's was only half the price.
Half the price? it was 50 bucks less.
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  #15  
Old 07-25-2018, 7:50 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by tomcat315 View Post
Half the price? it was 50 bucks less.
Then you should have bought the 686 with the key lock at $504, LOL. NIB price is $998 for the S&W unless you are buying out of the trunk of a 1973 De Ville in an alley.

Again Good Luck
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  #16  
Old 07-25-2018, 8:09 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by mj1 View Post
Then you should have bought the 686 with the key lock at $504, LOL. NIB price is $998 for the S&W unless you are buying out of the trunk of a 1973 De Ville in an alley.

Again Good Luck
The 686 is 800 the three stores I looked. The ruger is 750 at the three stores I looked. I payed 700.

Can you explain NIB for me?

I actually liked the gp100 better than the 686 is every respect except the double action trigger pull. As far as the internal lock I know someone personally who has had it fail with the hammer locked back and the the cylinder in the closed position. Ill never buy a 686 with a lock period. And no he didn't tamper with the lock.

Matter of fact I will say that the 686 has a nicer finish. Also me and a friend rented 4 guns. two 686s and two gp100s . 2@ 4 " and 2@ 6" . All four were so close in accuracy it was a toss up.

As far as your Ruger prices thats a great deal. Your getting ripped on your smiths.
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  #17  
Old 07-25-2018, 8:54 PM
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Old school no cost GP100 trigger job:

- Check revolver for safety, make sure all chambers are empty.
- Sit down in front of TV.
- Play your favorite movie.
- While watching movie, point to safe direction and pull the trigger.
- After the movie and a couple thousand trigger pulls. Done.

If needed, repeat a couple more movies. Don’t worry, it is a GP100, you won’t hurt it.

P.S. Or buy a GP100 Match Champion.
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  #18  
Old 07-26-2018, 7:14 AM
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Matter of fact I will say that the 686 has a nicer finish. Also me and a friend rented 4 guns. two 686s and two gp100s . 2@ 4 " and 2@ 6" . All four were so close in accuracy it was a toss up.

Your getting ripped on your smiths.


It's always nice to get the straight scoop from a renter.

Again good luck.
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Last edited by mj1; 07-27-2018 at 6:29 AM..
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  #19  
Old 07-26-2018, 8:40 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by axhoaxho View Post
Old school no cost GP100 trigger job:

- Check revolver for safety, make sure all chambers are empty.
- Sit down in front of TV.
- Play your favorite movie.
- While watching movie, point to safe direction and pull the trigger.
- After the movie and a couple thousand trigger pulls. Done.

If needed, repeat a couple more movies. Don’t worry, it is a GP100, you won’t hurt it.
^^^This worked on my GP100.
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  #20  
Old 07-26-2018, 10:12 AM
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I swapped springs on my GP100 4" and did some work on the trigger group (oiled 1000 grit). DA is 10# and SA is 3#, both crisp and smooth.

I used Wolff reduced power spring kit. 10# hammer and 8# trigger return. No light strikes and I only use CCI and Win primers for 357
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  #21  
Old 07-26-2018, 8:14 PM
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I have the Wilson trigger and hammer spring kit I got from Brownells, put in the 10/10, many rounds of various primers and no issue of light strikes. I'm near SFV you're welcome to try it.
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Old 07-26-2018, 9:17 PM
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You use CCI primers? Great. That means you can test reliability with one of the harder pistol primers on the market.

The first thing I think you should do is polish and shim the revolver. This'll drastically increase the smoothness of the trigger pull and shimming the hammer will center the firing pin which should increase ignition reliability if you end up going with a lighter hammer spring. This is work done from the factory on GP100 Match Champion models, except you'll put more time and care into doing it to your own revolver than a Ruger employee would on a revolver they won't be shooting.

Then, if it's not smooth enough for you just from doing that, I would recommend going down spring weight until it starts to feel comfortable to you, while testing reliability on every swap. Honestly, Ruger's 14# factory mainspring is a bit on the heavy side. I think 12# is the way to go. Wolff also offers an 11# spring. A lot of people who want the lightest trigger without sacrificing reliability too much end up with the 10# spring, but keep in mind that the lighter you go, the less reliable it'll be and the less of a lifespan the spring will have (also keep in mind that on revolvers the mainspring also wears out from dry firing). I've never heard of the 9# spring being reliable without centering the hammer and using light primers, so if you want to stick with CCI I wouldn't recommend going beneath 10#.

If you want this to be a practical handgun, I strongly recommend you don't touch that trigger return spring. If you ever want to shoot fast in double action you want the trigger to reset fast. If this is just a target or range revolver though, do whatever you want with this spring.
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  #23  
Old 08-04-2018, 9:13 AM
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Thanks for the input everyone.
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  #24  
Old 08-04-2018, 3:40 PM
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They might also make extended firing pins which help with ignition.
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Old 08-04-2018, 4:06 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by jdg30 View Post
I would agree. You don't need to change springs. If you do, do it minimally. Smoothing out burrs can be done by hand or by using the gun a lot. The GP100 is easy to work on and smooth out. Honestly the GP100 I had was one of the smoothest revolvers I've ever had. Shooting it a lot will smooth it out better than messing with springs. Messing with springs will increase the chances of unreliability.
I own a 4" GP100 bought about 6 years ago as well as 2 S&W Performance Center .357's.

Honestly, out of the 3 revolvers, my GP100 trigger has the smoothest DA pull as well as SA pull compared to my 2 S&W Performance Centers! It's the smoothest trigger on any revolver I own.

I'd recommend shooting it for a while before changing anything.
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  #26  
Old 08-04-2018, 4:51 PM
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I put 5000 dry fire pulls through all my GP100s. 500 a day for 10 days.

Then, disassemble completely and clean the internals. You will be surprised how dirty it is in there. Especially the trigger return spring area.

That will help a lot. And, your hand will be much strong and make you a better shooter.
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  #27  
Old 08-04-2018, 4:54 PM
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Like others have said, just dry fire your GP100 a lot and it will smooth out. Do 100 dry fires a day for a week and you will notice the difference.

I have a GP100 and a 686. I like them both. Great guns.
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Old 08-04-2018, 5:06 PM
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I don't think you will notice a difference until a few thousand. Cleaning the inside is key.
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  #29  
Old 08-05-2018, 4:53 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by jdg30 View Post
I had a Ruger GP100 4" a few years back and made it into a really smooth nice revolver. I followed advice from Iowegan on Rugerforum.net. I don't know if the information is still available. It involves taking the revolver apart (which is easy) and smoothing and deburring all the mating surfaces on the gun. I added trigger shims (triggershims.com) to reduce side to side play and added new springs but didn't go drastic.

I can't remember the exact Wolff springs I used but if I remember correctly I kept the mainspring at 12 lb and the trigger rebound spring at 10 lb. with smoothing out the burrs and action, the gun felt way smoother. With lighter springs, the gun felt sluggish and lethargic. I would not change to much lighter springs, especially the trigger rebound spring. It made my gun feel like crap. You want the trigger to snap back fast after shots, not slow.

Smooth the gun out and you will be good and love the gun. Sometimes I regret selling the one I had. I figure I can always replace it. If I bought a new one, I would immediately work on it to make it into a nice smooth shooter.

I also polished and radiused the trigger to make it into a dream trigger that was super comfortable.

You can turn your stock GP100 into a smooth gun easily.

^^^This ^^

I did the exact same thing to my GP100 & SP101.
I lightened up the trigger and main springs with Wolfe kit, but I also did not go too light - as I wanted to make sure I still got a good primer strike.

Go out and shoot the heck out of the gun (including dry firing it).
Then you can follow "Iowegan's" instructions in his IBOK (Iowegan's Book of knowledge).
I actually have the pdf that he sent me.
PM me your email and I'll send it.

Regards
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  #30  
Old 08-05-2018, 7:31 PM
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Hammer shims on a GP100 don't do anything to center the firing pin. They can reduce friction which makes DA pull smoother and, along with other polishing , whether by use, dry firing, or careful hand work, can allow lighter springs to produce reliable primer ignition.

I agree with others regarding too light springs, especially the trigger return. I would go 10 or 12lbs on the main. I can't remember what mine has in it, but it is a nice DA trigger. Even my S&W only retired cop neighbor was surprised how slick it is.
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Old 08-08-2018, 4:49 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Mr. Beretta View Post
With all due respect, I suggest putting at least 1,000 + rounds (half 38spl half 357mag) downrange before you change a thing on your GP100.

Shoot the gun. Wear it in.
I agree. If the OP is willing to spend a few extra bucks, he can start with a GP100 Match Champion like I did. Very smooth right out of the box.
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