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  #1  
Old 03-03-2013, 2:01 PM
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Question Anyone have any idea what this firearm is










I'm looking to restore a rifle my dad left me and the problem is i have no idea what the hell it is. I'm not sure on caliber, make or even the model. It's looks to be a C&R era rifle, it also looks to be missing all parts related to the magazine. with my dad passing a few weeks ago i thought getting this back in working order would be a nice tribute to him.

Thanks.
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Old 03-03-2013, 2:11 PM
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Looks like a Spanish Mauser, small ring, probably 7 x 57
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  #3  
Old 03-03-2013, 2:12 PM
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Sorry for your loss.

It looks like a M1916 Spanish Mauser.
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  #4  
Old 03-03-2013, 2:13 PM
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It's definitely some kind of Mauser.
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  #5  
Old 03-03-2013, 2:18 PM
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Yeah, clean it up.
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  #6  
Old 03-03-2013, 2:23 PM
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Make sure to check the caliber, many were converted to .308
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Old 03-03-2013, 2:26 PM
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Brownells sells a kit that you use to make an impression of a rifles chamber.

It will basically make a cartridge based upon the chamber so that you can use that to determine the cartridge and throat erosion

It might be a way to identify the chamber before you start on the project
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Old 03-03-2013, 2:30 PM
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080-027-050MB - 1/2 lb Cerrosafe
$24.99

Mfr:BROWNELLS
Price:$24.99 - $45.99
Never Wears Out- Use Over And Over
There are various products on the market which can be used to make a cast of a gun chamber. To be certain that the product we are offering you is the best and most practical, we contacted the basic manufacturer. They recommended Cerrosafe because of its unique features. Unlike Woodsmetal which swells upon cooling and cannot be removed from a gun chamber, Cerrosafe shrinks during the first 30 minutes of cooling and then at the end of an hour, is EXACTLY chamber size. At the end of 200 hours it will have expanded approximately .0025". This factor is well known by all toolmakers and they will take it into consideration when making dies or reamers or gauges from your cast - if you will tell them the cast is of Cerrosafe. Cerrosafe melts between 158° - 190° F. It should be melted in a clean, iron ladle. Source of heat should be removed as soon as the alloy is completely melted, at which time it is ready to pour. The solidified casting should be removed from the chamber before, or when, it cools to room temperature. If allowed to remain in the mold over an hour, it will grip the chamber walls and be difficult to remove. Clean the chamber of the rifle thoroughly, then plug the bore immediately ahead of the throat with a small rag - but not so tightly it cannot be driven out. If possible, pour the molten Cerrosafe through a small tube into the bottom of the cast, gradually removing the tube as the chamber fills. If the barrel is cold, warm it to room temperature or above before making the cast. When cooled, remove from chamber, using a rod or dowel from the muzzle end of the gun.
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Rule 4 -BE SURE OF YOUR TARGET AND WHAT IS BEYOND IT
(thanks to Jeff Cooper)
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  #9  
Old 03-03-2013, 2:31 PM
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Looks like a Spanish Mauser m1916 that has participated in the Running of the Bulls in Pamplona.
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  #10  
Old 03-03-2013, 2:42 PM
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As the others have said, Spanish m1916 short rifle. With the OT prefix, it's most likely a .308.
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I am currently cleaning it and I noticed when I squeeze the snake this white paste like substance comes out. What the heck is this crap?
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  #11  
Old 03-03-2013, 3:42 PM
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Thanks guys. i definitely get that kit to find out the chambering, i'll have to wait a while till i take care of all his stuff. but i cant wait to get this thing range ready.
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Old 03-03-2013, 3:44 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by morfeeis View Post
Thanks guys. i definitely get that kit to find out the chambering, i'll have to wait a while till i take care of all his stuff. but i cant wait to get this thing range ready.
Almost certainly either 7x57 or 7.62x51. It might be possible to tell with either cartridge by bore comparison or softly attempting to chamber the rounds
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  #13  
Old 03-03-2013, 4:04 PM
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IU don't have a 308 rifle anywhere, i do have a crap load of 30.06 but thats no help.

What about the magazine parts, any clue on where i can find the springs and whatnot?
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  #14  
Old 03-03-2013, 4:17 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by morfeeis View Post
IU don't have a 308 rifle anywhere, i do have a crap load of 30.06 but thats no help.

What about the magazine parts, any clue on where i can find the springs and whatnot?
Try a bullet test with a 30.06 round. Try to fit the bullet end of the round into the muzzle...see how far it goes in compared to your 30.06 barrel...that may give you some idea as to whether it is a .308 barrel
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  #15  
Old 03-03-2013, 5:33 PM
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Here's some info on your serial number:

"3) The "OT" series, all of which have an OT prefix followed by five numbers. All the ones I have heard of are in 308 Winchester. Estimated production is 60,000."

from this page:

http://masterton.us/Spanmauhome

Last edited by steve91104; 03-03-2013 at 5:37 PM..
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  #16  
Old 03-03-2013, 6:05 PM
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Spanish Model 1916, and your serial number falls into the ones converted to 7.62 NATO (not .308Win), and more suited for the 7.62 CETME round. Do the bubba pencil test, standard yellow pencil will stick in the muzzle of a 7mm, falls into a 7.62.
Any pre 98 small ring Mauser follower and spring will work in the mag, I'll check the spare parts box and see if I have one. Before you start messing with it, two things need to be done. Have the head space checked, and have it checked for lug setback at the same time. Most of these were advertised as .308Win, and most had that higher pressure round ran through them. Enough of it, and setback will be present, meaning it's unsafe to shoot without a lot of expensive gunsmith work.
If that checks out, surplus CETME ammo, or maybe some of the new low pressure .308, but I would learn to reload and use .300 Savage loading data.
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  #17  
Old 03-06-2013, 5:39 PM
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a lot of info to take in. Once again thanks guys.....
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  #18  
Old 03-06-2013, 6:03 PM
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I just used a 30.06 round on the end of the barrel of a win 70 (chambered in 30.06) and the 1916. on the win 70 the round wouldn't go all the way down past the projectile and touch neck of the brass, but on the 1916 it would bottom out at the neck of the round. What did that tell me?
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Originally Posted by Ayn Rand View Post
You seek escape from pain. We seek the achievement of happiness. You exist for the sake of avoiding punishment. We exist for the sake of earning rewards. Threats will not make us function; fear is not our incentive. It is not death we wish to avoid, but life that we wish to live.
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  #19  
Old 03-06-2013, 6:40 PM
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It sounds like it has been converted to 7.62...unlikely that a 7mm bore could be worn enough to let a .308 bullet slip that far in.

Of course...it could have been counter bored, in which case all bets are off.
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  #20  
Old 03-07-2013, 12:39 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Mustang View Post
It sounds like it has been converted to 7.62...unlikely that a 7mm bore could be worn enough to let a .308 bullet slip that far in.

Of course...it could have been counter bored, in which case all bets are off.
This^^

The 7mm bore is .284, so for a .308 bullet to slip through it would have to be worn past the rifling
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My neighbors think I'm a construction worker named Bruce.

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I am currently cleaning it and I noticed when I squeeze the snake this white paste like substance comes out. What the heck is this crap?
Quote:
Originally Posted by Jeff L View Post
Don't D&T a virgin milsurp rifle. You'll burn in collector hell.
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