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General gun discussions This is a place to lounge and discuss firearm related topics with other forum members.

View Poll Results: Vote for as many as you would like to see happen.
Make jigs available for KTO 1911's so people can finish them at home. Estimated cost $150 141 47.47%
Add cutting the picatinny rail cuts+flaring the magwell to build party for another $30 per frame. 184 61.95%
Offer engraving service at build party ($35 for text or $75 for text and an image) 107 36.03%
Offer 9mm parts kits 131 44.11%
Offer other caliber parts kits. (besides 9mm, for 9mm choose option 4) 70 23.57%
Multiple Choice Poll. Voters: 297. You may not vote on this poll

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  #1201  
Old 06-28-2014, 10:52 PM
CaliforniaSerf CaliforniaSerf is offline
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Guys, one thing to watch is where the back of the barrel meets up with the bullet ramp on the frame. My barrel was short by nearly a quarter of an inch. Imagine a step on the frame as the bullet comes up from the magazine. Can't imagine it's going to load very well on my set up. So I can't use the barrel provided in the kit without making a big modification to the frame. Which I'm not willing to do. So, time to find another barrel.

Take a look at yours and make sure the frame bullet loading ramp and back of the barrel have a smooth transition.
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  #1202  
Old 06-29-2014, 3:35 PM
skyhanger00 skyhanger00 is offline
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I think it's the bullet ramp that is out of spec. I have two barrels (the other 7" for SSE), and they are both short. Of course they are both cheap ~$70 barrels.

Get a top of the line Ed Brown/Kart/Barsto barrel and see how it fits. That should be in spec, and it might just mean we need to recut the ramp.
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  #1203  
Old 06-29-2014, 5:52 PM
CaliforniaSerf CaliforniaSerf is offline
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I tried Kart barrel and the Kart fit perfectly. When I put the RIA barrel back in, that's when I say the big gap. Last thing I want to do is take material out of the frame and find that no other barrel fits!!!

So, in goes the Kart, and I'll smooth the frame to that.
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  #1204  
Old 06-29-2014, 8:44 PM
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Can we get a picture of the fit with the two barrels?
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  #1205  
Old 06-29-2014, 9:18 PM
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hhmmmm... not any more... sorry.
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  #1206  
Old 06-29-2014, 9:28 PM
justincase855 justincase855 is offline
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So I was fortunate enough to complete my 1911 and test fire it this weekend. The pistol shot great except I'm having an issue with every third round or so not cycling properly. The slide locks back as if it was empty.
This is my first experience with 1911's so I was wonder if anyone had any thoughts? My mags are Colt mags...not cheap knockoffs.
Thanks.
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  #1207  
Old 06-29-2014, 9:59 PM
buruli buruli is offline
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If the mag's not empty and it's locking back erratically look at two things
1) do you have the plunger installed? If not, the slide stop can move up and lock back the slide.
2) remove the slide, insert the slide stop in the frame, then insert an empty magazine. the follower should be pushing the slide stop up. Then push the follower down, look and see if the magazine is in any way touching the slide stop. It should not be touching.
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  #1208  
Old 06-29-2014, 10:16 PM
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Ive had this issue with a few of my 1911's. In all of my cases it wasn't the mag hitting the slide stop its the ogive of the bullet. I notices on one of my old race guns the inside part of the slide stop was shaped to accomodate the bullet and on other stock slide stops its bulbous in shape. I just reshaped it and polished it up and its gtg.
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  #1209  
Old 07-17-2014, 8:56 AM
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Syhanger posted here about the mag relase button hole. And other issues that I found as well. http://www.calguns.net/calgunforum/s...php?p=14473427

I am having issues with the mag relase not fitting. I looked at the blueprints but cannot determine how to countersink the inner portion of the left side of the frame (I think this is what is neede to get er done)

Also he mention .312 countersink. This seems large compared to the actual mag relase.

Can anyone please direct me?
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  #1210  
Old 07-17-2014, 1:19 PM
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Anyone else having trouble with their plunger tube? mine is non functional as is from KTO.

Cant fit plunger in, wont come out other side, and its not even centered.

Anyone think I can mill it off, drill and taper holes, and replace with a standard one?
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  #1211  
Old 07-17-2014, 3:05 PM
buruli buruli is offline
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The problem is that the depth of the mag release hole on the right side of the frame (passenger side) is not deep enough. The spec is 0.694" + 0.005" - 0.000" You will find if you measure it that the hole is not deep enough. Although I'm sure people have tried, it cannot be done properly with a drill press or by hand. There is too much run out on a drill press and you will wallow out the hole on the passenger side and it is a very visible part of the gun. The frame needs to be set up in a mill, indicated in correctly, then using a 5/16" endmill drop down inside the existing hole and increase it to the correct depth. It is not a "312 countersink that's needed, but a 0.312" (5/16") endmill.

In answer to Escobar's question, I once milled off a KTO plunger tube that got crushed and installed a factory plunger tube. If you've made your sear and hammer pin holes you have the technology to properly locate the two holes for the plunger tube. The trick is to cut a small countersink on the inside of the frame to properly stake the plunger tube. The best way to do this is with a ball end carbide bit and a Dremel tool. Reach inside the frame and stick the ball end tool in where the holes are and make a countersink. There are specialized staking tools for staking the plunger. You can also make a tool. Lots of stuff on line about how to stake plungers. If you can afford it and think you might make another gun, just buy the plunger staking tool. Brownells Part # 296-000-123WB about $26.00. Before you mill off the built-in KTO plunger tube though, see if you can save what you have. The large diameter hole (rear end of the plunger) is a #35 drill. The small end (front) is a #42 drill. Just chase the holes to be sure no burrs and be sure right diameter. I don't recommend using a drill motor for this. It's very easy for the drill to grab and blow all the way through, which, of course ruins it completely. Use a mill if you have one and carefully drop down inside the hole to open it up. If you don't have a mill, use a a pin vise (i.e. a small drill chuck on a handle) and do it by hand.
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  #1212  
Old 07-17-2014, 4:52 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Escobar View Post
Anyone think I can mill it off, drill and taper holes, and replace with a standard one?
That's pretty drastic solution you're going for. I simply used a $30 reamer set from Brownells to fix the plunger tube problem.
http://www.brownells.com/gunsmith-to...prod24915.aspx

The problem is the larger diameter hole is too short, and needs to be deepened.

Quote:
Originally Posted by Squirly View Post
Can anyone please direct me?
You can either mill out the proper hole as directed above, or you can fix it the ghetto way by modifying the mag catch as shown in that post. If you don't have a mill, I would suggest doing that on a cheap part like the mag catch.
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  #1213  
Old 07-18-2014, 9:26 AM
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buruli , you are the man.
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  #1214  
Old 07-20-2014, 12:20 PM
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Escobar, I would start with the suggestions skyhanger00 made...
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KTO 1911 80% + Rock Island Parts Kits + Aimsmall arms 1911 Jig group buy OPEN
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http://www.calguns.net/calgunforum/s...7#post12529807


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  #1215  
Old 07-30-2014, 5:36 PM
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Would anyone be willing to educate me, in person, with their tools on how to complete this? I am a man without a garage and unable to get any big boy tools at my disposal.
Please PM me. I am in San Diego but would be willing to drive to LA. I can donate to the cause.
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  #1216  
Old 09-12-2014, 4:03 PM
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I have a question about the RIA parts kits that was provided in this GB..

1-What mainspring # was provided?
2-What recoil spring# was provided?
3-How does the 1 pc main spring housing affect this if at all?
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Last edited by Squirly; 09-12-2014 at 4:15 PM..
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  #1217  
Old 09-12-2014, 4:46 PM
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I don't know the answer to your question, but the parts and packaging was identical what I got at e-Sarco. I seriously doubt this is a Rock Island parts kit.
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  #1218  
Old 09-12-2014, 5:28 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by CaliforniaSerf View Post
I don't know the answer to your question, but the parts and packaging was identical what I got at e-Sarco. I seriously doubt this is a Rock Island parts kit.
Alternatively, e-Sarco's parts may be from RIA...
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  #1219  
Old 09-12-2014, 7:46 PM
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Alternatively RIA brokered the deal w Sarco parts.
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Alternatively, e-Sarco's parts may be from RIA...
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  #1220  
Old 09-13-2014, 9:34 AM
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Tutoring question ? Any of you knowledgeable gun smith types interested in tutoring me through this build with tools ? I would certainly be willing to donate to the cause. I am new at this build part, and don't have the multitude of tools, files, etc. I am in Escondido and have 2 frames from this buy that are milled and good to go. I'm a bright lad, and probably could stumble my way through it after I buy all the necessary tools, but would appreciate the guidance none the less.
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  #1221  
Old 09-13-2014, 11:09 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by rickandfun View Post
Tutoring question ? Any of you knowledgeable gun smith types interested in tutoring me through this build with tools ? I would certainly be willing to donate to the cause. I am new at this build part, and don't have the multitude of tools, files, etc. I am in Escondido and have 2 frames from this buy that are milled and good to go. I'm a bright lad, and probably could stumble my way through it after I buy all the necessary tools, but would appreciate the guidance none the less.
check out the TM 80% 1911 thread many ppl there finished their frames old school using files and elbow grease like myself! Some used dremel tables. 1 thing I recommend is getting a jig as it will help keep things true & tight...
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  #1222  
Old 10-22-2014, 4:36 PM
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Anyone having issues fitting the thumb safety?
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  #1223  
Old 10-22-2014, 10:49 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by CaliforniaSerf View Post
Anyone having issues fitting the thumb safety?
whats the problem?

proper procedure would be put the leaf spring in, install the MSH, NO grip safety and cock the hammer then insert the thumb safety to see where its being stopped
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  #1224  
Old 10-23-2014, 11:36 AM
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whats the legalities of assisting someone finish theirs?

If someone has a dremel "machine", can one just talk the other person through all the procedures as long as owner of frame does ALL THE WORK?

thanks
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  #1225  
Old 12-19-2014, 1:39 PM
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Default Amateur blunder

I have two KTO frames on this buy. Been trying to fit the mag release pin to frame, screwed up one trying to get pin into frame (tried to deburr the inside on left side and drill grabbed frame and drilled thru frame), removing the cbore lip. anyone offer a solution to solving this problem.
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  #1226  
Old 12-30-2014, 7:22 PM
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I'm way late to this party. Are frames still available?
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  #1227  
Old 12-30-2014, 7:58 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by jafount View Post
I'm way late to this party. Are frames still available?
PM sent.
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  #1228  
Old 03-21-2015, 6:53 AM
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I have a few tactical kits if any one is interested
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  #1229  
Old 03-21-2015, 7:53 AM
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I have a few tactical kits if any one is interested
Tactical kits?
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  #1230  
Old 03-21-2015, 8:19 AM
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Tactical kits?

*with rope
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  #1231  
Old 03-21-2015, 11:33 AM
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The slides are tactical model not GI
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  #1232  
Old 03-26-2015, 2:44 PM
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Quick question, is this project doable with handtools? If so which tools would one use? I'm trying to figure out where to start after putting this whole thing on the backburner for a while.
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  #1233  
Old 03-26-2015, 3:32 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by boxcutter3005 View Post
Quick question, is this project doable with handtools? If so which tools would one use? I'm trying to figure out where to start after putting this whole thing on the backburner for a while.
Read through this thread:

http://www.calguns.net/calgunforum/s...d.php?t=890626

Lots of ways to do it.
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  #1234  
Old 03-26-2015, 6:40 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by boxcutter3005 View Post
Quick question, is this project doable with handtools? If so which tools would one use? I'm trying to figure out where to start after putting this whole thing on the backburner for a while.
quite doable with hand tools Exhibit A
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