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  #41  
Old 10-27-2017, 11:56 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by SAGISI View Post
For my other 2 defective frames I was able to get the rail in. I shoved a needle nose pliers down the trigger well and rotated the pliers to open up the frame a bit while pushing down on the front rail. It felt like the frame was about to snap but figured it was worth a try. I'm going to bake the frames with front rail in at 150 degrees for an hour to see if I can get frame back to normal. I'll keep you guys posted with the results.



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All this reminds me of some build threads on the original Tactical Machining 1911 80% frame...

I just got my PF940Cv1 build done. Pretty straight forward and much better than the 1st Gen large frame I still have sitting in my "trash" pile... I think I'll just use that frame for stippling practice...
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  #42  
Old 10-27-2017, 6:07 PM
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Success!!! After I was able to pry open the frame with a needle nose pliers in the trigger well, I baked the frame @165 degrees for 1 hour (with front locking block installed). Pulled out of oven and let it cool down to room temperature. Locking block now slides in n out perfectly like how it should to begin with.


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  #43  
Old 10-27-2017, 6:10 PM
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Originally Posted by Nelson_2016 View Post
Hmmm...SAGISI maybe I can buy that cut frame from you for a couple bucks? Or maybe you can post some other pictures showing the pieces of the frame in different orientations against a different background? (ONLY KIDDING!)

Here you go


Planning on using frame to practice my stippling.



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  #44  
Old 10-27-2017, 6:38 PM
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Sorry, a thought just popped into my head.
Do frames have to be cut up into 3 pieces? I know this is polymer. Just wondering. And yes, I know the frame above could easily be cut up into 100 pieces.
I am not starting things here, just asking because I want to destroy a couple aluminum and steel ones.
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  #45  
Old 10-27-2017, 8:10 PM
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Pretty sure that pistols need to be cut through the trigger guard and rifle receivers are into 3 pieces.
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  #46  
Old 10-27-2017, 8:50 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by MosinVirus View Post
Sorry, a thought just popped into my head.
Do frames have to be cut up into 3 pieces? I know this is polymer. Just wondering. And yes, I know the frame above could easily be cut up into 100 pieces.
I am not starting things here, just asking because I want to destroy a couple aluminum and steel ones.
The cut is not demilling, polymer 80 asks that a pistol be cut like that and the ar lower cut through the trigger pocket before they will send out a replacement. It is only to show that you had one and that it can not be used anymore. It does not meet atf standards.
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  #47  
Old 10-27-2017, 10:08 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by vlady View Post
Pretty sure that pistols need to be cut through the trigger guard and rifle receivers are into 3 pieces.
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Originally Posted by jericho89 View Post
The cut is not demilling, polymer 80 asks that a pistol be cut like that and the ar lower cut through the trigger pocket before they will send out a replacement. It is only to show that you had one and that it can not be used anymore. It does not meet atf standards.
Thanks guys. I will look into it more.
Sorry for hijacking the thread.
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  #48  
Old 10-27-2017, 11:40 PM
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from what I have found (and most all of the atf destruction refers to machine guns), a gun is destroyed when it has 3 cuts through it (a total of 4 pieces). The cuts need to be done with a torch that removes 1/4 inch of material, so that the gun can not be rewelded. Since you are most likely cutting up 80% receivers then just chunk them up with a band saw and toss them. The smaller the pieces the better. ATF does approve sheading a gun as destroyed.
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  #49  
Old 11-05-2017, 11:46 AM
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Got my poly80v2 yesterday and measured the locking block. 0.661 block and 0.655 frame (at the bottom of the rear lug).

The front part of the frame that the block locks into was not as warped which leads me to believe that shrinkage/contraction of the polymer was miscalculated/oversized. Looking at the placement of the rear locking block lug, it's near the trigger hole which on a hot mold would allow the material to expand into (whereas if it was a solid block that was later milled/cut it would be more uniform to the front lug).

For test fitting, I broke the corners on the block as well as the frame (lightly with a sharp knife) and pushed the block into the frame firmly to seat it. I left it in overnight and it seems to have stretched now to an appropriate width. It slides in much easier. I think I'll get to this project this week, but may not if other things come up to document some of the findings.
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  #50  
Old 11-25-2017, 12:13 AM
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Just got my FDE v2 in and both locking blocks go in without too much force. The front one needs slight tapping but once straight, it goes in without too much effort. The rear slides in with minimal resistance by hand.

Maybe they figured something out with the blocks or frames
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  #51  
Old 11-25-2017, 5:02 AM
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From your description, it seems like they must have changed something.

Edit: I'm thinking if they did make a change to the locking block, maybe they also fixed the sloppy lockup issue. Maybe when you get the pistol together you can report here if the rear of the barrel has any freedom to move vertically when it's in battery?

Last edited by Nelson_2016; 11-25-2017 at 2:52 PM..
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  #52  
Old 11-28-2017, 6:01 PM
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We built up one from our inventory and can confirm:

1: Locking block out of spec with frame, we used a file to add a taper to the frame and were able to install the locking block easily after that.

2: Jig might be a little off, making the locking block and trigger pin slightly higher than they need to be, which put our locking block rail system at a very slight angle and leaves it out of alignment with the rear rail module. We ended up taking a file to the underside of the front rails at an angle that helps compensate for this, which seems to solve the issue.
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  #53  
Old 11-28-2017, 8:15 PM
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I had the same problem with my locking block and frame. I emailed Polymer80 and this was their response:

"The locking block is indeed very, very tight. There are two methods to fit it in the frame. You can use a 7/16" metal rod, bolt, or otherwise similar sized instrument to place in between the two nubs that stick up off of the frame to pry the opening slightly and fit the locking block in. These are the newest directions that have been put into our instruction manual, but I have found that if you can get the front legs of the locking block rail system squeezed and fitted, you can then tap it into the frame with a soft hammer or mallet."

I got it to fit by taking a wide flat head screwdriver and prying open the frame while pushing the locking block down into the frame. My dimensions for the frame is .630" while the rail is .675" wide.

Hope that helps.
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  #54  
Old 11-28-2017, 9:00 PM
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I'm wondering, has anyone measured the width of the involved part of the frame before and after installing the locking block (to see if there is any bulging)?
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  #55  
Old 11-28-2017, 10:05 PM
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So just an update regarding the locking blocks: mine were out of spec and the slide wouldn't line up right (the rear rails were too low compared with the front ones), so I called P80 and it they said that the locking blocks were out of spec so they sent me new ones that worked. Customer service was very good
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  #56  
Old 11-29-2017, 10:13 AM
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Inlander, I've noticed that the action of my new PF940V2 does not lock up quite the same way as my PF940C.

With the compact model, I cannot move the barrel noticeably downward by pushing on it (when the barrel and slide are in battery), and this is how I always thought it should be. However, on the new full size model, I can move the barrel noticeably vertically downward by applying a little pressure with my thumb.

I'm wondering, has this also been your observation?

Quote:
Originally Posted by Inlander Arms View Post
We built up one from our inventory and can confirm:

1: Locking block out of spec with frame, we used a file to add a taper to the frame and were able to install the locking block easily after that.

2: Jig might be a little off, making the locking block and trigger pin slightly higher than they need to be, which put our locking block rail system at a very slight angle and leaves it out of alignment with the rear rail module. We ended up taking a file to the underside of the front rails at an angle that helps compensate for this, which seems to solve the issue.
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  #57  
Old 11-29-2017, 5:58 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Nelson_2016 View Post
With the compact model, I cannot move the barrel noticeably downward by pushing on it (when the barrel and slide are in battery), and this is how I always thought it should be.
However, on the new full size model, I can move the barrel noticeably vertically downward by applying a little pressure with my thumb.
That's just differences in parts.
Stock glocks are usually so sloppy that you CAN move the barrel down with thumb pressure when it's locked in battery.
That's a bad thing for accuracy.

Aftermarket barrels often have a tighter fitup to the locking block to reduce the slop.
I have also added a little weld to the bottom of many glock barrels to allow me to create a tight lockup where you would not otherwise have one.
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  #58  
Old 11-30-2017, 1:12 PM
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Well I have three other Polymer 80 built pistols (using Glock factory parts) and all three are reasonably tight when in battery. To go from the experiential <0.005" to >0.030" is quite a "difference in parts". A little too much for my taste.

Quote:
Originally Posted by ar15barrels View Post
That's just differences in parts.
Stock glocks are usually so sloppy that you CAN move the barrel down with thumb pressure when it's locked in battery.
That's a bad thing for accuracy.

Aftermarket barrels often have a tighter fitup to the locking block to reduce the slop.
I have also added a little weld to the bottom of many glock barrels to allow me to create a tight lockup where you would not otherwise have one.
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  #59  
Old 11-30-2017, 2:31 PM
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The PF940v2 we built up has a very small amount of vertical movement while in battery, just enough to notice.
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  #60  
Old 11-30-2017, 5:08 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Nelson_2016 View Post
Well I have three other Polymer 80 built pistols (using Glock factory parts) and all three are reasonably tight when in battery.
To go from the experiential <0.005" to >0.030" is quite a "difference in parts". A little too much for my taste.
Put a little bead of weld on the bottom of the barrel and then grind/file/stone the weld back until you achieve successful and tight lockup.

The weld goes on the red area, closer to the green area:

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  #61  
Old 12-01-2017, 7:43 AM
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@ Inlander

Thanks for the reply. This makes me think the issue might be the locking block.

I've noticed on mine that the "flat" upper surface of the "wedge", (the surface that is apparently supposed to support the barrel) is not very flat. Looking at it from the side it looks almost concave upward.

Is yours flat?

@ ar15barrels

Thanks for the info. I might end up doing that.

I was also considering replacing the Glock factory barrel I have with a match barrel (with an oversize "underlug" or whatever they call it) and fitting it exactly to the slide and frame, but the only match barrel I could find was a Bar-Sto for $225.00 so I put that idea on hold for now.

As it turns out, a friend of mine recently ordered a PF940V2 and I think I will wait to see what his looks like before I do anything.
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  #62  
Old 12-07-2017, 12:39 PM
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I've worked off and on as a "project specific" gunsmith since 1983. Before I ever perform any work, I always inspect each and every part to ensure everything is in spec and all required parts for the job are present. This practice saves more headaches than you could imagine.

Brownell's had nearly everything on sale that's required to complete a PF940V2 - so I picked one up in coyote brown. When I checked the locking block to frame fit, there was a .034 difference. The frame was visibly (even looking down from the top) and excessively bowed inwards.

The instructions say to roll a 7/16ths drill bit into the trigger slot to spread the frame to allow the locking block to be pressed in. The .PDF file for the instructions is here:

http://www.polymer80.com/media/wysiw...structions.pdf

Anyways, when I pressed the drill bit into the trigger slot it did spread the frame enough where the locking block became a press-in fit using only your thumb. Unfortunately, my frame is so far out of spec that the inside corner of the locking block pocket turned white as the plastic began to crack. It was about then that pressure sent the drill bit flying halfway across the room, so I stopped everything right there.

I talked to Polymer80's tech support this morning with this information and was told that some of the frames and locking blocks were out of spec and that .034 was excessive. Since I had not yet performed any work on the frame, they are sending me a shipping tag to return my frame and locking block for replacement.

While it's a bit disappointing this happened, I have to say that Polymer80 is really stepping up to ensure their customers receive quality parts to build a project that they can enjoy and be proud of. I'm also really happy that I'm not going to have to stand in a long line at the PO during the Christmas rush to ship the parts back.

Knowing now that Polymer80 is standing behind their product to this extent, I would tell anyone who is hesitant or on the fence about building a PF940V2 to go for it with the confidence that if there is a problem that they're going to be there to make sure things are right.

By treating me well, I'm the kind of person who will go out of my way to give others the confidence to buy their products. I'll also be actively looking at their other product offerings since I have full confidence in their company.

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On a separate note, I bought the slide and barrel that are made / branded for Brownell's. The barrel to slide lockup could not be better. I test-fitted them using a factory Glock frame and am very pleased with the quality and fit.

If I were to have any complaint, I would have preferred for the corner radius on the slide to have been rounded off just a little more as it is a bit more "square" than a factory Glock slide. The added serrations at the front and over the top of the slide are a welcome addition.
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  #63  
Old 12-08-2017, 3:19 PM
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Originally Posted by NoHeavyHitter View Post

[...]
I talked to Polymer80's tech support this morning with this information and was told that some of the frames and locking blocks were out of spec and that .034 was excessive.
[...]
Hmmm, they say only "some" of them are "out of spec"? Is there anyone here whose locking block width - measured between the outside faces of the rear legs - is significantly LESS THAN 0.034" larger than the internal width of the corresponding part of the frame?
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  #64  
Old 12-09-2017, 6:49 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Nelson_2016 View Post
Hmmm, they say only "some" of them are "out of spec"? Is there anyone here whose locking block width - measured between the outside faces of the rear legs - is significantly LESS THAN 0.034" larger than the internal width of the corresponding part of the frame?
Not in my case. Got the difference of .030 on the rear legs and .044 (yup) on the front. That's with the new front rail sent by Polymer80, the old one is about .010 wider on the rear legs.
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  #65  
Old 12-09-2017, 7:16 PM
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Now, here's the question: will baking the frame at 150 degrees for an hour, as suggested before, negatively affect the polymer?
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  #66  
Old 12-09-2017, 7:45 PM
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Now, here's the question: will baking the frame at 150 degrees for an hour, as suggested before, negatively affect the polymer?
I had intended to ask that, but the conversation went in another direction when they told me they were sending me a pre-paid shipping label to send it back for replacement.

I hadn't intended to buy one of these V2's yet as I won't be building it right away. I decided to go for it when I saw pretty much everything was on a good holiday sale at Brownell's. I'm just going to leave it at my place up in Idaho and build it later when I have more time.

Only way I'd build it in CA is if I can borrow or rent the parts to make it a compliant single-shot and take photos of it for evidence prior to converting it to its intended configuration.

That said, they have a toll-free number to their tech-support and it's easy enough to call and ask. I'd be interested to know as well, so please post on it if you find out - thanks.
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  #67  
Old 12-09-2017, 10:32 PM
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Originally Posted by NoHeavyHitter View Post
I had intended to ask that, but the conversation went in another direction when they told me they were sending me a pre-paid shipping label to send it back for replacement.

I hadn't intended to buy one of these V2's yet as I won't be building it right away. I decided to go for it when I saw pretty much everything was on a good holiday sale at Brownell's. I'm just going to leave it at my place up in Idaho and build it later when I have more time.

Only way I'd build it in CA is if I can borrow or rent the parts to make it a compliant single-shot and take photos of it for evidence prior to converting it to its intended configuration.

That said, they have a toll-free number to their tech-support and it's easy enough to call and ask. I'd be interested to know as well, so please post on it if you find out - thanks.
Yeah, same here, I wasn't planning on buying them until all the kinks were worked out, but couldn't pass on the Black Friday deal from Mag Commander. $107 shipped is as good as it gets for these. So I ended up being an early adopter for a change

I'm going to ask Polymer80 this, but I'd like to get a second/third opinion, of course, especially if someone has tried it. There are some very knowledgeable people around here.
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  #68  
Old 12-09-2017, 11:07 PM
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Quote:
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Now, here's the question: will baking the frame at 150 degrees for an hour, as suggested before, negatively affect the polymer?


150 is a real safe temperature to bake polymer at. I bake polymer all the time at 150 degrees when curing Cerakote. Baked 3 tight fitting frames so far with the locking block in place and have heard of no problems with malfunctions or durability issues.


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