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  #1  
Old 06-18-2012, 6:23 PM
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Red face Mosin Repair Thread

Hello,

As requested, this is the Mosin repair thread. If you need help, please post it here and someone will answer it.

I'm not an "expert" but have been in these a million times, and likely know the answer, or can make a good guess.

I'll answer in the format required; words, pics and/or move!

Regards,

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Old 06-19-2012, 10:52 AM
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i just got mosin type 53 carbine i need a ejector and screw they list them for m91/30, m38, m44, 91/59, m38 does anyone know wich one would fit??
http://www.tickbitesupply.com/mospart.html
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  #3  
Old 06-19-2012, 11:11 AM
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Ok, I got one for you. I just want a simple and cheap way to lighten up my trigger. What are your thoughts and concerns with what this guy did:

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ty_u4jo3GHc
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Last edited by PoorRichRichard; 06-20-2012 at 9:49 PM.. Reason: spelling
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  #4  
Old 06-19-2012, 12:28 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by glenntuc View Post
i just got mosin type 53 carbine i need a ejector and screw they list them for m91/30, m38, m44, 91/59, m38 does anyone know wich one would fit??
http://www.tickbitesupply.com/mospart.html
Hello,

They are all interchangeable. Also, Tickbite is expensive.

All you need to figure out is whether you want the one piece or two-piece. The two-piece has the ejector separate from the interrupter/spring assembly.

Here is a Type II, which would be "correct" for the Type 53:

http://www.ebay.com/itm/MOSIN-NAGANT...-/200766118087

MauserMarty is a good guy. Tell him I sent you.

Regards,

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Old 06-19-2012, 12:58 PM
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Originally Posted by PoorRichRichard View Post
Ok, I got one for you. I just want a simple and cheep way to lighten up my trigger. What are your thought and concerns with what this guy did:

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ty_u4jo3GHc
Hello,

I think it's pretty dangerous to reduce the sear engagement beyond specs to reduce a trigger pull. It would be like carrying around a rifle with a two-stage trigger with the second stage permanently depressed. Not safe!

Try this:



Also buy some fine sandpaper, about 1000 grit, and polish the sear engagement surfaces. If you Google "M28/76 sear" you'll also find a modification done by the Finns which keeps the bolt from following the sear down.

It is safe, but if you're not good with files, don't do it. I did it on mine and love it!

Second part is to get some fine emery cloth and put a piece through the trigger to polish the mating surface in there. Use a "shoeshine" motion.

An M39 trigger will drop-in most Mosins. (The ones they don't fit are the ones that already have excellent triggers, like the M27, M28, and Romanian M44).

If you feel like spending a bit more (about $30), this feller from Finland will send you an M39 trigger and sear that should drop right in:

http://www.gunbroker.com/Auction/Vie...Item=292102896

My setup is about the same, only the trigger pins are roller bearings, I left some meat in the trigger to act as a race, and the sear has the mentioned M28/76 mod to keep the bolt from following the sear downward.

But, just polishing, bending and retentioning will give most excellent results! The trigger pull on my Mosin is target grade now, and unless that's what you're going for, any of the above (with the exception of shimming!) will do what you want done!

I'll leave you with some measurements. This is not me:



Regards,

Josh
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Old 06-19-2012, 5:27 PM
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josh thanks better price,
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  #7  
Old 06-19-2012, 5:37 PM
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If you have a war time MN you will have a "washboard" effect on your trigger because of the machine marks on the sear. This is what I bought after my factory izzy sear failed.

http://www.ebay.com/itm/Mosin-Nagant...#ht_500wt_1287

I loved it for the price, smooth, no grit, no wash boarding, and crisp.
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  #8  
Old 06-19-2012, 8:34 PM
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Yes! That's Clyde. Good guy.

He bought these from a Finnish dude, I'm guessing. Anyway he's carrying them and the dude in Finland is not any longer.

There are a few tricks to those, too. Might have to pose pics sometime.

Josh
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Old 06-19-2012, 9:00 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Josh Smith View Post
Yes! That's Clyde. Good guy.

He bought these from a Finnish dude, I'm guessing. Anyway he's carrying them and the dude in Finland is not any longer.

There are a few tricks to those, too. Might have to pose pics sometime.

Josh
Guess the sometime is now.

You should be able to see the pins underneath the spring if you look hard enough. Also, pay attention to how the top of the sear is cut. Only do this if you are confident with a file!













This is, by far, one of the best triggers I've ever felt. Took a while to get it this way.

The slack spring honestly is not needed, but it does retain the pin and gives an overall much smoother feel to the setup, especially the single stage.

I can loose the slack spring and one pin and still have it be a much better trigger than most stock Mosins.

Regards,

Josh
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Old 06-21-2012, 1:01 AM
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^ so Josh, the sear in your pictures from above- It's one of the Finnish sears that you further modified, correct?
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  #11  
Old 06-21-2012, 5:33 AM
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My Moison Trigger Improvements

The best way to improve the trigger on Moison Nagant M91/30, M38, M39, M44's, M53 and M91/56 is to:

Trigger and Trigger pin mod's:
Drill out trigger pin hole in trigger and receiver ears with a .165 drill, then cut the drill tang off (Dremel tool) to length for a trigger pin, this will insure .001 tolerances and make the trigger pull more consistent in weight from pull to pull.

Polish with a SQUARE fine hard Arkansas stone, the inside and the outside of the trigger bearing surfaces and the inside of the receiver ears to insure smooth movement and to remove any drilling burrs.

Sear Spring:
Too lower trigger poundage grind the back side (side viewed when assembled upside down) of the sear spring on a belt sander (being careful to cool and not burn metal) taking about .010 off (keeping thickness consistent/parallel) and then reassemble and test pull weight. Ideal weight is between 2.5 to 3.5 lbs for target shooting, add a pound if used for hunting.

Polish with a SQUARE fine hard Arkansas stone, the sear bearing surface (cocking piece bearing area) and square up the top surfaces (measure dimension parallel to bottom) for a sharp square edge.

Cocking piece:
Polish with a SQUARE fine hard Arkansas stone, the sear bearing surface removing any indentations or galling, square up and polish top surface to improve bearing surface to a sharp corner.

Some firing pins and bolt bodies are loose fitting and when you pull the trigger the cocking piece moves downward and you get a mushy first stage. I weld a small 1/16" diameter or smaller bead where shown and then grind/polish down till the pin/cocking piece does not bind with the bolt body, this greatly improves the crispness of the first stage.

The photo is of the weld bead prior to filing/stone polishing to "restrict the loose fit between the under-size firing pin diameter to the oversize bolt body".

Disassemble the bolt, remove the firing pin spring and reassemble the bolt body and firing pin. Move the firing pin up and down to determine slack/gap between cocking piece and bolt body (measured with feeler gage) at tip of cocking piece and bolt body. Weld up/on a bead as shown and adjust/grind/polish the weld bead height to HALF the measured slack/looseness/tolerance you measured with a feeler gage and reassemble bolt.

Basically you are creating a stop/support for the cocking piece movement during the initial trigger pull first stage and forcing sear engagement to define total trigger travel instead of the firing pin/bolt body gap, and sear engagement defining Total trigger travel.

It allows for a more crisp consistent pull weight and release.

Finnish M39 trigger:
The best way to get a really nice two stage trigger is to find/buy a Finnish M39 trigger and proceed with the above mods assembling and testing first and second stages.

Some trigger pulls may be too long and you can remove .010 off the top of the sear spring sear surface to reduce final stage/sear engagement and retest for engagement and pull weight.. Some may be too short and you may need a replacement sear spring but you may already know that before you start this whole process.

Final note:
After the above mods most all triggers will now drag on the stock or trigger guard, you could bed the action forcing it into the center of the trigger guard while it cures, or you can open up the trigger guard trigger slot with a file or on a milling machine, this insures no trigger contact and you end up with a consistent pull and release.

I hope this helps unravel the mysteries of the Moison.
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  #12  
Old 06-21-2012, 5:14 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by PoorRichRichard View Post
^ so Josh, the sear in your pictures from above- It's one of the Finnish sears that you further modified, correct?
Hello,

That would be correct.

The Finnish sear being sold is actually the one used in the M39. There were many, many others, including the M27 and M28.

For example, you have the M27. Most had the sear done up like I did mine... but the trigger is more of a hybrid Mosin/Mauser cross:



Then there's the M28 trigger:



I borrowed the pictures courtesy of http://7.62x54r.net/ . They state on the M28 page that "This trigger has a small hole that serves no apparent purpose. "


Yes, it does have a purpose. Before they got to playing with the mousetrap spring, there was a leaf spring mounted below the sear spring. It rode on a pin that went through the hole. This made the trigger into a two-stage deal.

The M39 trigger can be had on Gunbroker for not a lot of money. The M27 trigger may also be had, but it's twice as expensive. I personally do not like it because, should that setup break, it would be just that much harder to find a replacement for repair.

Regards,

Josh
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  #13  
Old 06-24-2012, 11:30 PM
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FWIW, my 1931 Izzy ex-drag has a pretty damn good trigger for a Soviet Mosin.

It feels slightly heavier than my K-31 in its second stage; no nasty spongy feeling...



2.5" group using Soviet light ball. Best 100yd group I've done to date.


Now I need to try my new M-39...
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Old 06-25-2012, 2:25 AM
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There you go! Most of these shoot at least 2.5MOA out of the box if you do your part.

Josh
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Old 06-25-2012, 7:25 PM
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Yeah, took me a while to get into the groove there, but it was good timing---because after those 5 rounds, the barrel got too hot and the groups opened up and were no good.



On the far rear right, there is a 5 shot group that's circled. This was one with the same rifle and same ammo @ 50 yds.

This rifle is a good piece, but it's heavily biased towards the right--so much so, that the front sight kinda sticks out of the dovetail a little on the right side--and yet, it still needs to be tweaked. I'd really like for this to be a very decent shooter some day. It's my favorite Russian Mosin I have.

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Old 06-25-2012, 7:40 PM
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Posted in the wrong spot! Dangit.
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Last edited by Josh Smith; 07-11-2012 at 1:03 AM..
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Old 07-11-2012, 1:04 AM
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Bumpage for anyone who may not have seen this thread.

Josh
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Old 07-11-2012, 9:48 AM
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Thanks, Josh. Mosins are fine rifles and remarkably affordable. This thread is a good idea.
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Old 07-11-2012, 11:23 PM
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Hey Josh... where do you get good stripper clips?
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Old 07-12-2012, 4:50 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Kappy View Post
Hey Josh... where do you get good stripper clips?
There is an older gent who sends me some to use. He's a great guy, and I bet I have 50 or more Russian and Finnish.

He did send me a couple minty WWI Russian that he cautioned me not to use.

Been trying to get him to put some up for sale on my site. He's the one who sells the cleaning kits...

I can tell him that there's some interest in this thread and ask him to take a look.

Regards,

Josh
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Old 07-12-2012, 7:38 AM
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Yes josh bill is a good guy. I Dont Know if he is still selling clips or not I know he was. He told me he sent you some I have some clips as well if anyone is interested and bill is sold out
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Old 07-31-2012, 2:34 PM
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Having problems with my 1927 Hex Mosin 91/30 that I picked up on Saturday. For starters, you can't load more than one round. When you insert a round, it doesn't click and stay in place like my other Mosins. I finally just inserted one round but the bolt was very hard to close. When I pulled the trigger it shot straight and true, better than the rest of my Mosin fleet. Then it was nearly impossible to open the bolt. I didn't want to mess with it at the range so we set it aside and continued with hand guns.

I would appreciate some ideas where to start looking and fixing.
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Old 07-31-2012, 3:23 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Josh Smith View Post
There is an older gent who sends me some to use. He's a great guy, and I bet I have 50 or more Russian and Finnish.

He did send me a couple minty WWI Russian that he cautioned me not to use.

Been trying to get him to put some up for sale on my site. He's the one who sells the cleaning kits...

I can tell him that there's some interest in this thread and ask him to take a look.

Regards,

Josh
older gent indeed! i have some original finn tikka,some finn GWS,some Izhevsk -bow and arrow,some winchester (about 1917) some Izhevsk with triangle and arrow, and some others like german dw in oval,british I-1917,some pre WW I clips all kinds. kris smith gave me 6 Izhevsk last time we shot. total i have about 100 stripper clips now.
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Old 07-31-2012, 3:30 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by VintageDUG View Post
Having problems with my 1927 Hex Mosin 91/30 that I picked up on Saturday. For starters, you can't load more than one round. When you insert a round, it doesn't click and stay in place like my other Mosins. I finally just inserted one round but the bolt was very hard to close. When I pulled the trigger it shot straight and true, better than the rest of my Mosin fleet. Then it was nearly impossible to open the bolt. I didn't want to mess with it at the range so we set it aside and continued with hand guns.

I would appreciate some ideas where to start looking and fixing.
if you lived close to san diego i would tweek it for you. as i am retired i like to mess with my rifles. kris has handled mine and shot it. i had a weak follower spring in my magazine last time at P2K ,but i have installed a new spring and it now works excellent. .
sounds like extractor/interupter problems and may want to check for stuff around them. i took my rifle all the way down and found cosmoline packed in slot for ejector. sometimes there is not enough clearance between wood and extractor causing it to bind.
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Old 07-31-2012, 3:35 PM
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I can drive to SD anytime. Just lmk if you can help.
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Old 07-31-2012, 3:41 PM
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Bill will hook you up he is a very knowledgeable guy make sure you check he's space too bill has a set of gauges and so do I I am also in sd
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Old 07-31-2012, 3:45 PM
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Josh or any one else who knows mosin triggers I bought a Finn trigger off of gun broker from a guy in Helsinki Finland and I got it installed in my 53 m44 Hungarian it's tight and crisp trigger break but it's got a lonnnnnnng pull how can I shorten the pull and question 2 my 28 m91/30 had a ton of play in te trigger when coked like I can wiggle it fore and aft I swapped the trigger to the one from my m44 ad it's got less wiggle do I need a new trigger sear spring ?
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Old 07-31-2012, 3:47 PM
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anytime. i am retired and some other guys want me to help them make theres like mine and i want mine like josh smith's gun. let me know when you want to come down,i live near balboa exit of 805
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Old 07-31-2012, 3:49 PM
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sunday or monday Kris. come my house and we will fix your trigger flopping around.
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Old 07-31-2012, 4:53 PM
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Hey all, I got a sticky situation - specifically, a stuck bolt.

My mosin 91/30's bolt refuses to open when the rifle is not cocked.
The rifle has never been fired since buying it from Big5.

So far what I've tried is:
  • Disassembling the bolt and cleaning it again.
  • Pouring hot water down the barrel and trying to remove any excess cosmo.
  • Further cleaning with a 20 gauge brush with polish cleaning the chamber.

So far, no such luck.
I can only open the bolt when I pull back on the cocking knob while opening the bolt. When it's cocked, the bolt will open/close normally.

At the moment, the only thing I can think of is the spring is bad, and I should just order a new one.

Any thoughts?
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Old 07-31-2012, 5:41 PM
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Will do bill I'll cal you this weekend
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Old 07-31-2012, 6:35 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Kristic View Post
Hey all, I got a sticky situation - specifically, a stuck bolt.

My mosin 91/30's bolt refuses to open when the rifle is not cocked.
The rifle has never been fired since buying it from Big5.

So far what I've tried is:
  • Disassembling the bolt and cleaning it again.
  • Pouring hot water down the barrel and trying to remove any excess cosmo.
  • Further cleaning with a 20 gauge brush with polish cleaning the chamber.

So far, no such luck.
I can only open the bolt when I pull back on the cocking knob while opening the bolt. When it's cocked, the bolt will open/close normally.

At the moment, the only thing I can think of is the spring is bad, and I should just order a new one.

Any thoughts?
Hmm that's a weird one ,,,

The locations the bolt may bind as it ramps up to 'cock on opening' would be

The bolt head lugs in the receiver. The bolt body handle lug on the receiver.

The bolt head or bolt body on the guide connector.

Or the ramp on the bolt body/cocking knob.

Since its operating when the cocking knob relieves pressure on the bolt , the problem might be back there.

The trigger/bolt stop could also be interfering with the bolt

Another unlikely cause may be the firing pin protrusion is too great causing excessive pressure on the bolt head.

Hard one to tell without seeing the bolt firsthand
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Old 07-31-2012, 7:35 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Kristic View Post
Hey all, I got a sticky situation - specifically, a stuck bolt.

My mosin 91/30's bolt refuses to open when the rifle is not cocked.
The rifle has never been fired since buying it from Big5.

So far what I've tried is:
  • Disassembling the bolt and cleaning it again.
  • Pouring hot water down the barrel and trying to remove any excess cosmo.
  • Further cleaning with a 20 gauge brush with polish cleaning the chamber.

So far, no such luck.
I can only open the bolt when I pull back on the cocking knob while opening the bolt. When it's cocked, the bolt will open/close normally.

At the moment, the only thing I can think of is the spring is bad, and I should just order a new one.

Any thoughts?
I had the opposite issues, bolt would not close even with an empty chamber. In my case it was a slightly bent extractor.

The way I found the problem was to swap bolt parts with another MN, until I could identify which part of the bolt (or if it was the receiver) was causing the issue. Anyone near you with an MN?
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Old 07-31-2012, 8:05 PM
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just put a mosin in jail in big 5. it's my first mosin and my first C&R. the gun is covered with oil and lube. what do i need to do to clean it up before it's ready to shoot? just wipe it down? do i need to lube certain parts before i take it out to shoot?

thanks
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  #35  
Old 07-31-2012, 8:18 PM
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kouye kouye is offline
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Originally Posted by banpreso View Post
just put a mosin in jail in big 5. it's my first mosin and my first C&R. the gun is covered with oil and lube. what do i need to do to clean it up before it's ready to shoot? just wipe it down? do i need to lube certain parts before i take it out to shoot?

thanks
Search for "cosmoline" in this forum and you will find many answers. Have fun!
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Old 07-31-2012, 9:19 PM
banpreso banpreso is offline
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Originally Posted by kouye View Post
Search for "cosmoline" in this forum and you will find many answers. Have fun!
ahh thanks! didn't even know what was was called, haha.

sooo looking forward to shoot it!
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Old 07-31-2012, 9:33 PM
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I'll try to post pictures tomorrow, hopefully I can get better lighting.

Anyone in the San Francisco area have a working mosin that could help me troubleshoot this?
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Old 07-31-2012, 11:54 PM
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I'll try to post pictures tomorrow, hopefully I can get better lighting.

Anyone in the San Francisco area have a working mosin that could help me troubleshoot this?


Pay special attention at the 5 minute to 11 minute mark.



Pay special attention from 1:30 on.

I hope this helps!

Regards,

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Old 08-01-2012, 12:42 PM
Kristic Kristic is offline
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Well, I took the bolt apart once more, and this time lubed it up generously. Previously, I did not use any lubricant on it, but after watching your videos I put lube on the connecting rod, as well as all over the cocking knob (where it rubs/slides against the bolt body as it opens), and the bolt works just fine!

I took a picture of the cocking knob piece, as upon further inspection I saw there was a spot that appeared to be a metal bur. I think it's from rigorously smacking the bolt open when it was stuck.

I hope the picture comes out ok, as I only have my camera phone available.
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File Type: jpg 2012-08-01 11.05.31.jpg (49.6 KB, 15 views)
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Old 08-01-2012, 2:19 PM
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Took my troubled Mosin over to Bill's this morning. He was set up and ready to work when I arrived. The first problem he noticed was it was a filthy mess inside. The second problem was a broken spring. He helped me clean it up after totally disassembling it and did a lot of polishing on the bolt. He showed me places to polish on the trigger and sear as well. He then took parts off of his personal gun to repair mine. It now looks like this is my best Mosin so far.

I appreciate him taking the time to teach me and guide me through this. He is a great guy all around.
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