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Centerfire Rifles - Semiautomatic or Gas Operated Centerfire rifles, carbines and other gas operated rifles.

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  #161  
Old 10-11-2016, 10:55 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Darryl Licht View Post
My friend....

Anderson lowers have SN's, which is why you had the 10 day waiting period!

Unless you meant you have an 80% lower and an Anderson upper?

If that is the case, laser engraving is the way to go! ...and I know a guy!
Maybe he wants a different serial number

GTFOHILLARY2016 is a good one
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  #162  
Old 11-04-2016, 3:06 PM
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@Agent Tikki
Thank you so much for putting this together. As a 1st time builder it's super helpful and i bet it took a while to write up.
great stuff. cheers.
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  #163  
Old 11-06-2016, 5:57 AM
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Default Does Bipod amount to pistol grip in featureless build?

I am looking to convert my AR to a featureless build, it has a heavy barrel (i.e. no flash suppressor) and a harris bipod. The bipod would make a lousy forward pistol grip but would it put me at risk of having a qualifying AW instead of a featureless?
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  #164  
Old 11-06-2016, 8:52 AM
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Default AR15 Primer - A Beginner's Guide

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Originally Posted by GMH View Post
I am looking to convert my AR to a featureless build, it has a heavy barrel (i.e. no flash suppressor) and a harris bipod. The bipod would make a lousy forward pistol grip but would it put me at risk of having a qualifying AW instead of a featureless?


There are bipods sold which have a grip, and bipods which do not. As long as it does not have a grip designed to be gripped, it is not a legal risk. If you grip it that way you could be observed to have used it as a grip while operating the weapon and may then have a problem, so don't.


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  #165  
Old 11-27-2016, 9:45 AM
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So is it still worthwhile to do an 80% at this point assuming a 'featureless' build?
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  #166  
Old 11-27-2016, 7:35 PM
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Not in CA unless you just want to do the work. You'll have register anything you build anyway, may as well just get a 100% and dros it, build featureless. I have another one to build myself. Turners had Anderson lowers for like $70.
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  #167  
Old 11-27-2016, 7:37 PM
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Originally Posted by Relativist View Post
So is it still worthwhile to do an 80% at this point assuming a 'featureless' build?
Featureless is always worth it and no hurry.

Even a stripped lower to featureless is worth it.

Bob
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  #168  
Old 12-17-2016, 5:58 AM
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Hello everyone. I am new to the gun world and hoping to get some help. I have been doing my research, mainly on the laws. I went to buy and AR from some local gun shops but they were all out and a coworker recommended to buy the AR Stripped Lower if they had any. Luckily 1 shop had a couple left so I snagged one. Now to finish building on it what are all the exact pieces I need to buy. From my research i believe all I need is a Lower AR Kit and then and Upper barrel. Is that correct or am I missing something?

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  #169  
Old 12-17-2016, 6:26 AM
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Originally Posted by Pixa241 View Post
Hello everyone. I am new to the gun world and hoping to get some help. I have been doing my research, mainly on the laws. I went to buy and AR from some local gun shops but they were all out and a coworker recommended to buy the AR Stripped Lower if they had any. Luckily 1 shop had a couple left so I snagged one. Now to finish building on it what are all the exact pieces I need to buy. From my research i believe all I need is a Lower AR Kit and then and Upper barrel. Is that correct or am I missing something?

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Well, there's a simple way to do it, and there's a hard way. There are advantages and disadvantages to both.

Simple way: Buy an AR-15 "rifle build kit". It comes with everything you need to build an AR, you just need to supply the stripped lower (which you already bought). It comes with a complete working upper assembly, and a lower parts kit complete with a stock. Takes a minimal amount of assembly and tools - 30 minutes and a youtube video, a roll-pin punch, an AR castle-nut wrench, and a hammer. Palmetto State Armory sells reputable AR build kits for good prices, some as low as $400.

Hard way: Buy everything seperately. This will be more expensive, but you'll get all the exact parts you want. Not recommended if you don't really know what you're doing, although it's not as complicated as it sounds. To complete your lower, you'll need to buy a lower parts kit (LPK), a stock, and a buffer assembly. Then you can either buy a complete working upper, OR a complete upper minus Bolt Carrier Group (BCG) and Charging Handle (CH) and then buy the BCG and CH seperately, OR you can build your own upper from scratch. The last option can be quite a challenege for a beginner - you'll need an upper, an upper parts kit (forward assist, dust cover), a barrel, and handguard and barrel nut, gas block and tube, muzzle device, BCH, CH, and a handful of additional tools like a vice block and torque wrench.

My suggestion would be to do it the simple way the first time, and along the way you will learn how these rifles are built and be able to tune your purchases in the future to fit your needs. This method is tried-and-true.

Don't forget that at the end, you've still got to aim the thing somehow You can get a gas block with a front sight post already on it, and just buy a rear sight. Or you can buy rail-mounted front and rear sights as a set. Or you can forego iron sights entirely and just put an optic on it. Calguns will tell you that last option is a bad idea because Murphy's law says your optic will always break within the first 5 seconds of a gunfight but the fact is that 99.9999% of the time, an optic alone is fine for most people. You don't need anything crazy expensive as a beginner, but also don't get something too cheap. A $150-$250 optic is good enough for most people. A $50 optic is for airsoft. And a $500 optic costs more than your rifle. So you'll have to find the balance that works for you. If you need suggestions there are a lot of people around here who can help you out.

Also, welcome to Calguns
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Last edited by cockedandglocked; 12-17-2016 at 6:38 AM..
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  #170  
Old 12-17-2016, 6:41 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by cockedandglocked View Post
Well, there's a simple way to do it, and there's a hard way. There are advantages and disadvantages to both.

Simple way: Buy an AR-15 "rifle build kit". It comes with everything you need to build an AR, you just need to supply the stripped lower (which you already bought). It comes with a complete working upper assembly, and a lower parts kit complete with a stock. Takes a minimal amount of assembly and tools - 30 minutes and a youtube video, a roll-pin punch, an AR castle-nut wrench, and a hammer. Palmetto State Armory sells reputable AR build kits for good prices, some as low as $400.

Hard way: Buy everything seperately. This will be more expensive, but you'll get all the exact parts you want. Not recommended if you don't really know what you're doing, although it's not as complicated as it sounds. To complete your lower, you'll need to buy a lower parts kit (LPK), a stock, and a buffer assembly. Then you can either buy a complete working upper, OR a complete upper minus Bolt Carrier Group (BCG) and Charging Handle (CH) and then buy the BCG and CH seperately, OR you can build your own upper from scratch. The last option can be quite a challenege for a beginner - you'll need an upper, an upper parts kit (forward assist, dust cover), a barrel, and handguard and barrel nut, gas block and tube, muzzle device, BCH, CH, and a handful of additional tools like a vice block and torque wrench.

My suggestion would be to do it the simple way the first time, and along the way you will learn how these rifles are built and be able to tune your purchases in the future to fit your needs. This method is tried-and-true.

Don't forget that at the end, you've still got to aim the thing somehow You can get a gas block with a front sight post already on it, and just buy a rear sight. Or you can buy rail-mounted front and rear sights as a set. Or you can forego iron sights entirely and just put an optic on it. Calguns will tell you that last option is a bad idea because Murphy's law says your optic will always break within the first 5 seconds of a gunfight but the fact is that 99.9999% of the time, an optic alone is fine for most people. You don't need anything crazy expensive as a beginner, but also don't get something too cheap. A $150-$250 optic is good enough for most people. A $50 optic is for airsoft. And a $500 optic costs more than your rifle. So you'll have to find the balance that works for you. If you need suggestions there are a lot of people around here who can help you out.

Also, welcome to Calguns
Thanks for that info cockedandglocked. So assuming I buy a Simple Kit and do not add any other features to it I should be able to purchase a non-tooled legal magazine correct, which would be 10 rounds from what I see. Is that correct?

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  #171  
Old 12-17-2016, 6:58 AM
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Originally Posted by Pixa241 View Post
Thanks for that info cockedandglocked. So assuming I buy a Simple Kit and do not add any other features to it I should be able to purchase a non-tooled legal magazine correct, which would be 10 rounds from what I see. Is that correct?

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Well here's the thing, it's a bit more complicated than that. Check out the legal subforum for more info about that. But here's the basics:

Next year, evil-featured AR's (pistol grip, collapsing stock, flash hider) cannot be acquired here anymore. If you got it before 1/1/2017, then you may register it as an assault weapon after 1/1/2017. Until it is registered, it must have a "bullet button" magazine release. After it is registered, you might be able to replace the Bullet Button with a normal (tool-less) magazine release, but we aren't 100% sure about that yet. In any case, it definitely needs to have one when you build it, and the parts kits generally don't provide them, so you'll need to buy one from your gun store or Amazon or somewhere like that.

Yes, magazines must be 10rd or less. After July 1 next year, simple possession of mags over 10rds becomes illegal.

Take note that there are consequence to registering it as an Assault Weapon, the pros and cons of which have been discussed ad nauseum in other areas of this site. Namely, you cannot ever sell it or pass it down to your kids in CA. It dies with you. Thankfully, you have until the end of 2017 to figure out if you want to register as an AW, or do one of the other available choices instead.

Honestly, this topic goes much, MUCH deeper than I'm really willing to sit here and explain, your best bet is to check out the pinned threads in the Legal and Semiauto Rifles subforums here. You're one of the lucky few that has started to figure things out before it's too late - many thousands of others are going to unknowingly become felons when the New Years ball drops in a few days. Educate yourself and others as much as you can.
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Last edited by cockedandglocked; 12-17-2016 at 7:07 AM..
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  #172  
Old 12-20-2016, 6:29 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by cockedandglocked View Post
Well here's the thing, it's a bit more complicated than that. Check out the legal subforum for more info about that. But here's the basics:

Next year, evil-featured AR's (pistol grip, collapsing stock, flash hider) cannot be acquired here anymore. If you got it before 1/1/2017, then you may register it as an assault weapon after 1/1/2017. Until it is registered, it must have a "bullet button" magazine release. After it is registered, you might be able to replace the Bullet Button with a normal (tool-less) magazine release, but we aren't 100% sure about that yet. In any case, it definitely needs to have one when you build it, and the parts kits generally don't provide them, so you'll need to buy one from your gun store or Amazon or somewhere like that.

Yes, magazines must be 10rd or less. After July 1 next year, simple possession of mags over 10rds becomes illegal.

Take note that there are consequence to registering it as an Assault Weapon, the pros and cons of which have been discussed ad nauseum in other areas of this site. Namely, you cannot ever sell it or pass it down to your kids in CA. It dies with you. Thankfully, you have until the end of 2017 to figure out if you want to register as an AW, or do one of the other available choices instead.

Honestly, this topic goes much, MUCH deeper than I'm really willing to sit here and explain, your best bet is to check out the pinned threads in the Legal and Semiauto Rifles subforums here. You're one of the lucky few that has started to figure things out before it's too late - many thousands of others are going to unknowingly become felons when the New Years ball drops in a few days. Educate yourself and others as much as you can.
Awesome thanks. Yes I have been reading a lot and it just seems like a lot of things are just unclear until next year. Since I have bought a stripped lower, what are the things you believe I should get before the year ends. Is the build kit less important and should I worry about getting other things since I will still be able to buy the build kits after January? I was reading that some people said to stock up on ammo.

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Last edited by Pixa241; 12-20-2016 at 6:35 PM..
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  #173  
Old 02-21-2017, 6:44 AM
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Ammo will require a separate permit next year. So stock up now if you don't want to do that in the foreseeable future.

Build your rifle with either a fixed magazine and "normal" features (Franklin DFM), or something like an AR MagLock so that your detachable magazines require "disassembly" of the rifle to change.

Never have an empty magazine well during transport and never have one with ammunition in it. That way if stopped by Law Enforcement it's always a fixed magazine rifle and exempt from the AW laws.

If you go out of state, just insert the mags you want and shoot them there. Coming back into state, make sure you are back in "fixed mag" configuration.

Even featureless can not have a mil-spec mag release and be sporting 20 or 30 round magazines. That is not a condition of shooting in Cali ...
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  #174  
Old 03-05-2017, 2:43 PM
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Default messed up casing.

New to firearms. Built my own AR15. this is a 300 blk round. can anyone explain what happened it got stuck in the chamber.
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  #175  
Old 03-05-2017, 2:56 PM
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New to firearms. Built my own AR15. this is a 300 blk round. can anyone explain what happened it got stuck in the chamber.
I can explain what happened, but not why it happened. The lip of the casing got caught on the edge of the chamber opening, while it was going into battery. No idea why that would happen, though. Maybe the magazine wasn't fully inserted? Has it happened more than once?
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  #176  
Old 03-05-2017, 10:05 PM
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Originally Posted by cockedandglocked View Post
I can explain what happened, but not why it happened. The lip of the casing got caught on the edge of the chamber opening, while it was going into battery. No idea why that would happen, though. Maybe the magazine wasn't fully inserted? Has it happened more than once?
No first time it happened. The magazine was fully inserted. I'm just guessing it was just a bad round.
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  #177  
Old 03-05-2017, 10:44 PM
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Originally Posted by realinfishes View Post
No first time it happened. The magazine was fully inserted. I'm just guessing it was just a bad round.
Honestly I wouldn't worry about it then, unless it happens again. Like you said, maybe just a bad cartridge. But if it happens again, then it's worth looking into deeper.

Did the bolt/extractor pull the cartridge out when you pulled the charging handle to eject it? Or did the cartridge stay in the chamber when you pulled the bolt back?
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  #178  
Old 03-06-2017, 7:27 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by cockedandglocked View Post
Honestly I wouldn't worry about it then, unless it happens again. Like you said, maybe just a bad cartridge. But if it happens again, then it's worth looking into deeper.

Did the bolt/extractor pull the cartridge out when you pulled the charging handle to eject it? Or did the cartridge stay in the chamber when you pulled the bolt back?
I pulled the charging handle back with everything I could. The BCG recessed and with the BCG came the cartridge. Yes it did extract.
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  #179  
Old 03-11-2017, 6:26 AM
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Great write-up, sir. Thank you for your time and insight.

New user to this site. In the process of building a couple of Ar's right now, and I am a first time builder. I've been soaking up as much info as possible, watching some youtube vids, but youtube leaves a lot to be desired sometimes...I have seen some good ones, but have also seen a TON of bad ones...LOL

Looking forward to being part of the community here! Figured my Jeep forum helped me so much with my build, the same HAS to be true here, right? HAHA!
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  #180  
Old 03-13-2017, 6:58 AM
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Great write-up, sir. Thank you for your time and insight.

New user to this site. In the process of building a couple of Ar's right now, and I am a first time builder. I've been soaking up as much info as possible, watching some youtube vids, but youtube leaves a lot to be desired sometimes...I have seen some good ones, but have also seen a TON of bad ones...LOL

Looking forward to being part of the community here! Figured my Jeep forum helped me so much with my build, the same HAS to be true here, right? HAHA!
Are you building featureless? My understanding was that window closed as of 1-1-2017. Any AR's prior must be converted or registered as assault weapons (AW) this year, curtain 2018.
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  #181  
Old 03-13-2017, 9:17 AM
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I am thinking temporary fixed mag. Cause what if the laws change?
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  #182  
Old 04-15-2017, 2:05 AM
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This whole torque range on the barrel nut has me confused. 35-80 ft-lb is a huge range.
Heck, my wheels torque to 78 and the struts to 63. And that is steel.
I fully understand torqueing and releasing three times. Torqueing to 60-80 WITH M33 grease on is a good 15-20 ft-lb more though!
So you get to different hand guards with their proprietary barrel nut and most call for less torque.
Then you have them calling for Vibra-tite or nothing at all. Now the true torque has really changed!

The purpose of the grease is to stop galvanic action and prevent galling. The purpose of torque is to keep the barrel tight. Soooooo who do you believe?
(Over 50-60 ft-lb on aluminum seems like pushing it to me.)

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  #183  
Old 04-20-2017, 8:54 AM
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My understanding of the reason for the range has more to do with alignment than anything. Since the gas tube has to line up through the barrel nut, the design was to give a fair amount of leeway. I've always used the lower end of the range wherever possible IMHO


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  #184  
Old 04-20-2017, 9:18 AM
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That was my understanding as well. Just cinch it up 'till the gas tube lines up thru the nut. [shrug]
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  #185  
Old 04-20-2017, 9:53 AM
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That was my understanding as well. Just cinch it up 'till the gas tube lines up thru the nut. [shrug]
Yup. Tighten it to the lower end of the range, then keep turning it until the next gas tube notches lines up with the hole. If you reach the top end of the range before that, then take the nut back off and put in a barrel spacer and try again.
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  #186  
Old 04-22-2017, 7:25 PM
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Originally Posted by cockedandglocked View Post
Yup. Tighten it to the lower end of the range, then keep turning it until the next gas tube notches lines up with the hole. If you reach the top end of the range before that, then take the nut back off and put in a barrel spacer and try again.
Good, because my free float has it's own barrel nut that doesn't interfere with the tube.
I'll be in shooting mode by Mon.

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  #187  
Old 07-01-2017, 4:39 PM
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New to guns in california but a Marine for 12 years so i know how to shoot. Wanted just a plain Ar-15. i can hit stuff standing still at 500 yards.. with a front sight post.. lol..

it is confusing to figure out how to put one together. more websites are coming up with prebuilt ca certified ar's.

Looking forward to reading and great write up.

As a jarhead, pointy end out was the first and last rule.



thanks again and great website/forum!!!!
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  #188  
Old 07-08-2017, 1:37 PM
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So I finished a simple M4gery build, with an ARMaglock, and decided to try a couple snap caps. They immediately jammed. Holy hell what a PIA. I cleared it, then tried again - they ejected this time. But what is chewing up the snap cap? Here is a photo of the gouges on the tip. Is this normal, or is there maybe something wrong with the rifle now?

http://imgur.com/KvNpkPr
http://imgur.com/AUJRKTg
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  #189  
Old 07-08-2017, 1:49 PM
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highpower790 highpower790 is online now
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ulag View Post
So I finished a simple M4gery build, with an ARMaglock, and decided to try a couple snap caps. They immediately jammed. Holy hell what a PIA. I cleared it, then tried again - they ejected this time. But what is chewing up the snap cap? Here is a photo of the gouges on the tip. Is this normal, or is there maybe something wrong with the rifle now?

http://imgur.com/KvNpkPr
http://imgur.com/AUJRKTg
Barrel feed ramps.
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Old 07-13-2017, 4:33 AM
Geogorad Geogorad is offline
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Hey guys thanks for your helpful Guideline
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Old 08-09-2017, 1:06 PM
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OH! Good to see. Thanks for sharing.
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Old 10-05-2017, 8:50 PM
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Thanks very a lot for spending the time to position this together. I not too long ago just bought a S&W M&P15, and took it out for the first time this weekend.Essays Writers UK
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Old 10-06-2017, 4:17 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by highpower790 View Post
Barrel feed ramps.
+1

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  #194  
Old 11-07-2017, 5:45 AM
casoreh casoreh is offline
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Thanks. I only find this thread as newbie friendly. Now, I am clear about AR 15 firearms. I read at totalguide.org about this ar 15 scope but was not clear. AR 15 is a firearm and scope is use there for accuracy.
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Old 11-07-2017, 9:18 AM
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It was all super confusing to me in the beginning - so many options, so many variations. Then after putting one together and using it, it all started to make sense. Having some assistance on hand during assembly by someone that had done it also made a big difference for me. Some good info here.
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Old 12-07-2017, 10:19 AM
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Hello, all. New to the board. About to dive into my first 80% build. This is my first rifle and intro to the AR platform (I already have a HD/SHTF Maverick 88). Over the past months, I've watched a lot of videos and done a lot of reading on this forum and around the web, and I'm a technically inclined guy and think I've got the basics down pretty well.

I've wanted to do an 80% build for a long time; it was something I was putting off for financial reasons, as it felt like a hobby/luxury expense not necessarily prudent at the time. But thanks to the wisdom of Moonbeam and the CA state legislature, I was prompted into action. Come July 2018, much of the point of building an 80% goes out the window, so I started looking more into the specifics of the new laws and engraving and featureless build options.

At first, I had just intended to get the engraved lower, and mill/build it when I had the opportunity, but with my yearly bonus coming in, and Black Friday upon us, I broke down. I had already been building a list of economy parts for the build, but BF weekend offered deals that put a fair dent in even my budget build price tags.

So over the course of the Black Friday/Cyber Monday weekend, orders were put in. Once I saw a few good deals, I knew I had to just dig out deals on every part and just do it. The result will be my Scary Black Frifle.

All rifle parts purchased from Tactical Machining, Primary Arms, Stag Arms, Midway USA, and eBay. The lower is to be finished with an 80% Arms Gen 1 Easy Jig. Other tools & accessories purchased at links. All but the lower, jig/endmill, and a couple of the eBay items were from out-of-state vendors with free shipping (gee can't imagine why someone in CA would order a Thordsen from a NY vendor). The only thing that I initially wanted but couldn't find a good deal on was barrel with a mid-length gas port, so I went with the carbine. And I almost could have saved another ~$40 on the BCG+barrel, as a day after I received my ship confirmation, I got their email ad for buying the BCG at $100 and getting the barrel free (their CS has yet to reply on whether I can get a price adjustment).

At the moment, I'm just waiting for the lower. It was the last thing to be ordered, as I spent bit of time designing a custom coat of arms for the magwell (as I hope this to be an heirloom weapon, I decided to go all out on the engraving; the rest can be upgraded over time as I see fit), and their engraving is running a bit behind due to high demand. I think, according to my reading of the law, that if the weapon is built and marked prior to July 1, 2018, it can be passed down, as the transfer prohibition applies to weapons manufactured/assembled "pursuant to this section," which would exclude weapons assembled before the statute takes effect, correct? (hope so, but it'll still look cool as hell regardless)

Go ahead and let me know what you think of this build. They're mostly pretty bottom-of-barrel parts, some moreso than others thanks to sales (the ammo is probably crap as well). Let me know what I can expect to replace or service first if any of the components are particularly bad (though I'll be doing my best to keep the thing clean and lubed). Next accessories will be a sling or optics, a flashlight, and probably a couple more LOP spacers for the Thordsen. Optics are something I know I don't want to cheap out on, tempting as those $30 reflex sights on Amazon may be (gee, I wonder why all the good reviews mention playing airsoft?). Anodizing of the lower, likely professionally applied, will be the next expense. Ideally, I'd like to get at least one more engraved 80% lower and maybe one for a .308 as well before July. (and I'd like to get them bought and cut so I can maybe get a few bucks back selling/renting the jig)
LOWER:Tactical Machining Custom Laser Engraved 80% AR-15 Lower Receiver (Gen2) (CA compliant) (Mil-spec): $109.55 (engraved/raw, CA compliance/custom safety/custom logo/selected logo engraving, inc shipping)
UPPER:Anderson Manufacturing AR-15 Stripped Upper Receiver (Mil-spec): $29.99 (sale from $49.99)
BCG:Stag Arms QPQ 5.56 Bolt Carrier Assembly: $66.49 (sale from $119.99)
BARREL:Stag Arms 16" 5.56 M4 Barrel (1/9 twist) (Mil-spec): $69.99 (sale from $149.99)
LOWER PARTS KIT:AR-Stoner Complete Lower Receiver Parts Kit AR-15 (Mil-spec): $34.99 (sale from $59.99)
UPPER PARTS KIT:AR-Stoner Upper Receiver Parts Kit AR-15 (Mil-spec): $14.99
CHARGE HANDLE:Strike Industries ARCH AR-15 Charging Handle - Standard Latch – Black: $17.99 (sale from $22.50)
GAS BLOCK:Diamondhead USA Low Profile Gas Block - .750 - Set Screw Style: $10.99 (sale from $33.25)
GAS TUBE:Expo Arms Stainless Steel Gas Tube - Carbine Length: $8.95
BUFFER TUBE KIT:Tiger Rock AR-15 - 6 Position Mil-Spec Buffer Tube Kit (Mil-spec): $12.99 (sale from $29.99)
STOCK:Thordsen Customs GEN 3 Enhanced Featureless Stock Carbine Black AUTHENTIC CA NY: $127
HANDGUARD:TacFire HG08-12 M-LOK .223 12" Inch MLOK Ultra-Slim Light Weight Free Float Handguard w/ 2 Rails: $38.02 ($34.88+tax)
SIGHTS:Trinity Force Flip Up Iron Sight Rear/Front Sight Mount: $19.09
MUZZLE BREAK:1/2x28 Thread for.223 Muzzle Brake Pressure Reducer Jam Nut / Crush Washer: $10
THREAD PROTECTOR:For 223/5.56x45mm Steel Thread Protector 1/2"-28 Muzzle Brake Oxide: $4.28
RIFLE TOTAL: $575.31 (regular price: $797.58)

JIG:Universal AR-15 Easy Jig Gen 1: $150.84 (jig+end mill. inc tax & shipping. $25 coupon code)
PIN PUNCH SET:9 pc Roll Pin Pilot Punch Set Punches Tools Case Removing Gun Tools, 9 Piece: $11.74
VISE BLOCK & WRENCH:4 Combo M4/AR15 223/556 Upper & Lower Vise Block & Wrench Armorer's Tool Kit: $18.93
TOOLS TOTAL: $181.51 (regular price: $197.37)

MAGAZINES:2 - PACK Black 10 Round ONLY Magazine - 5.56 223 - 10rd Polymer Enhanced Mag MVP: $31.99
22LR CONVERSION KIT:CMMG Rimfire Conversion Kit AR-15 with Magazine 22 Long Rifle Stainless Steel: $139.99 (sale from $229.99)
22LR MAGAZINE:CMMG .22 LR Magazine 10 Rounds Gray Polymer 22AFC1D: $22.97
GUN BAG:NcStar 46" Black Police SWAT Hunting Tactical Rifle Gun Carrying Bag Case Pouch: $27.02
SAFE:SecureIt Tactical FB-47-01 Fast Box 47 Hidden Gun Safe: $274 (sale from $299)
22LR AMMO:Armscor USA .22 LR Ammunition, 500 Rounds, High Velocity HP, 36 Grains: $29.59
.223 AMMO:TulAmmo .223 Remington Ammunition, 100 Rounds, Steel Case FMJ, 55 Grains: $27.29
ACCESSORIES / AMMO TOTAL: $552.85 (regular price: $667.85)

ALL TOTAL: $1309.67 (regular price: $1662.8)
Will update with pics once completed.

Last edited by Dale's Dead Bug; 12-07-2017 at 10:41 AM..
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  #197  
Old 12-07-2017, 11:37 AM
sethrus sethrus is offline
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There's places you save money and there are places you don't try. Just IMO.

And I don't understand the thread protector and a muzzle break. ??!???

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  #198  
Old 12-07-2017, 2:47 PM
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Dale's Dead Bug Dale's Dead Bug is offline
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I got the thread protector because it was only four bucks and I hadn't nailed down the flash hider vs muzzle brake issue, as there are a whole lot of what now appear to be flash hiders listed only as muzzle brakes (I had previously already cancelled an order for a "birdcage muzzle brake"), so I wanted something I could be 100% sure was in the clear. I ordered the thread protector before the brake, and now I'm just a bit curious to try it out and compare.

Last edited by Dale's Dead Bug; 12-07-2017 at 2:51 PM..
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Old 01-18-2018, 6:08 PM
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ulmapache ulmapache is offline
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Great article...answered many questions...quick question.. I want to build an AR in .300 blk... So, I can build an A-2 lower, and find an A-2 style upper in .300 blk and I'm good to go, correct? Can I mix and match as far as manufacturers go? Like say a Colt lower, and a Bushmaster upper? I've mostly had com-bloc stuff, and want a bit more variety in accessories, and lighter weight...but do like the 7.62x39..which is why I want to go with the .300blk. Use will be for HD/SD and some range time. Thx for the replies!!!
BTW...not in Cally, so don't have to worry about Cally specific stuff....

Last edited by ulmapache; 01-18-2018 at 6:11 PM..
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