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  #281  
Old 11-15-2013, 4:13 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by tbc View Post
Thanks Turbinator. This is not easy...
Indeed. I'd increase exposure a little bit and possibly sharpen in post.

Turby
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  #282  
Old 11-16-2013, 5:46 PM
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Thanks Turbinator,

It looks fine on the laptop I posted on, when I viewed the post
on my computer at work it was under exposed by about a stop and a half.
I will repost after editing on another computer, also explaines why other pics
look over exposed.

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  #283  
Old 11-22-2013, 3:45 PM
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I finally got around to making a light box and took some family photos.







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  #284  
Old 11-25-2013, 1:12 PM
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Originally Posted by Turbinator View Post
The 3 photos of your SIG are excellent - very well done!

Turby
Hey, thanks! I really need to take more pictures of my toys. I should make a light box big enough for the EBRs.
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  #285  
Old 12-14-2013, 4:02 PM
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Default How to photograph handguns (Updated for 2013 post #3!)

Is anyone using tapatalk on an iPhone? When I post pics that route they always come out blurry? I know this thing takes clear pictures but when I post a pic it looks horrible... See below


Last edited by 1steuroride; 12-14-2013 at 5:02 PM..
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  #286  
Old 12-15-2013, 5:08 PM
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Anyone?
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  #287  
Old 12-15-2013, 6:10 PM
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  #288  
Old 12-19-2013, 5:22 PM
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Originally Posted by 1steuroride View Post
Anyone?
It could be that the app is resizing and dumbing down the quality of your images. My recommendation (if you want the highest quality) is to use Photoshop or Lightroom for your post-processing, save using that app with a high .JPG quality rating, then upload to a pic hosting site, and link to Calguns.

I'm not familiar enough with Tapatalk to explain what else might be going on, but the method I've outlined is what I do, and my pic quality usually is pretty good for forums.

Turby
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  #289  
Old 12-20-2013, 8:00 AM
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Thanks!
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  #290  
Old 12-22-2013, 10:58 AM
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  #291  
Old 12-23-2013, 12:03 PM
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  #292  
Old 02-09-2014, 4:19 PM
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Why do people put an object (usually a marker) between trigger and trigger guard when taking photos of their firearms?
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  #293  
Old 02-09-2014, 6:40 PM
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Why do people put an object (usually a marker) between trigger and trigger guard when taking photos of their firearms?
Usually to support the gun so it is not laying flat.
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  #294  
Old 02-09-2014, 10:16 PM
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Originally Posted by BCA142 View Post
Usually to support the gun so it is not laying flat.
Thank you. I suspected that to be the reason but wasn't sure. You see, in my mind there are many other (more graceful) methods to achieve that. Anyways, now I know how to do it the ugly way.

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  #295  
Old 02-09-2014, 10:25 PM
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  #296  
Old 02-11-2014, 11:05 AM
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Originally Posted by hachaduryan View Post
Thank you. I suspected that to be the reason but wasn't sure. You see, in my mind there are many other (more graceful) methods to achieve that. Anyways, now I know how to do it the ugly way.
Yeah, I don't like the marker in the trigger guard myself either. I usually use a white eraser to prop the item up from behind - takes some finesse but if you work it right, it will balance and look decent.

Turby
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  #297  
Old 03-10-2014, 2:36 PM
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I started an online business recently and needed to take literally 100s of photos of product samples. I also do not have a DSLR, just a point and shoot. I had to get resourceful in order get good consistent color.

The bulbs I got the best result with were 5600k LED flood lights. The only thing was I had to set my camera to a light setting for florescent HG lights or is would shift the color. That was kind of odd but it worked, it took a lot of experimenting to get the right combination of settings and light source but when you are on an almost none existent budget you do what you can.

I have an old computer, no fancy editing software and I work on this at night after my day job so I need to get the photos as close as I can with artificial light. I tried all kinds of bulbs but in the end the camera liked what the camera liked. (the camera was calling the shots) I had no luck with bulbs that were suppose to be for taking photos no matter what setting I put the camera on.

In the end I ordered a photo tent that worked better then the make shift one I had made. It was only around $20. I also ditched my tripod because it just got in the way. I bought a flexible goose neck mount for a security camera and mounted to a board, this worked out great because it is compact and lends it self to the tight space i have to work in.

I think a set up like this will work perfect for taking picture of hand Guns. I will snap a pic when I have time and see how it comes out. I am sure it won't be quite as nice as a lot of the other photos but we can't all have the best toys.

I enjoyed all the great pictures you guys posted in this thread.
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  #298  
Old 03-28-2014, 1:38 AM
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To get the best picture of your firearm, your camera have a good pixel and make sure about the directional type light by using a flash with your camera but make sure that no light will be on the camera.Put a strong wooden dowel on a base of the table or in the floor and stand the gun on the dowel by putting the dowel into the barrel and put the gun standing straight up and down showing the whole barrel.

Last edited by ScottEdvin; 03-28-2014 at 1:41 AM..
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  #299  
Old 04-04-2014, 9:22 AM
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It is mine. Do you like it?HandGun1.jpg
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  #300  
Old 05-06-2014, 11:46 AM
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  #301  
Old 05-07-2014, 3:59 AM
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Wealth of knowledge in this thread... thank you Turbinator!

Made a makeshift lightbox out of my kids' soccer goal (LOL!) covered in a white bed sheet. I then used (3) inexpensive Walmart clamp lamps with 60 watt bulbs at each end. Background was a couple of white posterboards.

Manually set my Canon 6D with 24-105mm L lens on a tripod as follows:
Ranges between F4 1/6 to F11 1.6" to F22 8"
ISO - 100
Picture style - Neutral
White balance - Tungsten
Drive mode - set to 2 sec. timer (since I don't have a remote and didn't trigger off the EOS Remote app on my Samsung Note 3)
Shot in RAW and JPEG Medium
Auto focused then manually adjusted

The following photos are completely unedited and downloaded to my Note 3 via EOS Remote app then uploaded to Photobucket. I will eventually process the RAW files through Lightroom 5 for sharpness and white balance correction... but for off camera JPEGs I think they came out decent.













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  #302  
Old 05-07-2014, 8:26 AM
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Completed my Smith and Wesson M&P9 collection. Got the FS, Compact, and Shield all in 9mm. Figure I just do some single light stuff to show them off. Not using a light box setup because I find flat lighting a bit boring.







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  #303  
Old 05-08-2014, 9:45 AM
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More light from the sides will reduce the shadows.

Also nice to try using polarizers to reduce reflections - polarize the light and cross polarize on the lens (aka 'analyzer') for maximum effect. An adjustable analyzer helps to modulate the effect.

Move the lights further away to make them effectively 'bigger' for even more diffusion.


As for single lights for dramatic effect - I'm a fan but only when used well. Too much subject lost in shadow is not effective use of such lighting to my tastes.
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  #304  
Old 05-08-2014, 10:57 AM
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Any knowledgeable person want to do a condensed version for people using phone cameras?

I think there are probably some very basic tips that can help them too.

I mean, some folks haven't grasped the idea that holding their black gun in front of their back tee shirt while wearing their black tactical gloves, probably won't make a decent pic
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  #305  
Old 05-10-2014, 3:32 AM
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I want to play too, this is my first attempt at this kind of photography.

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  #306  
Old 06-24-2014, 1:49 PM
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Here's a picture i took of my co worker's Px4

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  #307  
Old 07-19-2014, 9:33 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 65MustangCoupe View Post
Manually set my Canon 6D with 24-105mm L lens on a tripod as follows:
Ranges between F4 1/6 to F11 1.6" to F22 8"
ISO - 100
Picture style - Neutral
White balance - Tungsten
Let me give you some advice:
If you're using a sturdy tripod and a self-timer or remote release, the shutter speed does not matter; you set it to whatever speed will expose properly. Whether that's 1/1000 second or 5 seconds, the result should be the same if your tripod is stable. So the shutter speed and the lighting are your variables.

ISO should not be a variable. Set it to 100, to maximize sharpness.
Aperture is barely variable. This is something many photographers don't know. If you shoot with the lens wide open (the lens' smallest f-number), you'll have too little depth of field for photos like these, and the image quality will be "soft." To get the maximum sharpness out of a lens, you typically close it down about two or three f-stops from its wide-open aperture, around f/5.6 or f/8, depending on your lens' maximum aperture.

So why not use f/22 and get maximum depth of field? That's because of an optical behavior called diffraction, which reduces image quality. Once you stop the aperture down to about f/16, diffraction reduces sharpness. (Lenses differ; I'm giving you a generality, but they're all slightly soft wide-open and they all suffer from diffraction at small apertures).

Of course, people take great photos with all sorts of settings. But if you want the very sharpest results (and you can test this and see it for yourself,) use an aperture about two f-stops from wide open.

Another thing: If you shoot RAW instead of JPEG, the Picture Style and White Balance can be changed any way you like with your computer. RAW is what the sensor captures, and white balance and picture are applied to the RAW data. So you can adjust those settings all you want on your computer without losing any image quality. But, if you mix two light temperatures, such as tungsten lighting and flash, you may not be able to white balance the image, because different parts of the image may have been taken at different color temperatures.

Last edited by Libtard; 07-19-2014 at 2:39 PM..
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  #308  
Old 07-19-2014, 3:43 PM
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Originally Posted by andymetheu View Post
It is mine. Do you like it?Attachment 316108
Well... no. The lighting is not too good. It looks like you pointed a flash or lightbulb right at the center. See you the light reflects and shines off of the center? I don't mean to sound rude, but if you pay attention to some of the posts about using light diffusers, you can make that picture look much better.

Last edited by Libtard; 07-19-2014 at 3:57 PM..
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  #309  
Old 08-17-2014, 1:17 PM
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Nikon D800e with 24-70 f.28 VRII @ 70mm 1/250th f22 100iso
Speedotron 102 head with 7" Reflector pointed at white ceiling (9' high) from about 4' away, in Speedotron 2405 Powerpack @ 100%
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  #310  
Old 08-17-2014, 10:19 PM
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Originally Posted by Hollywood_Shooter View Post

Nikon D800e with 24-70 f.28 VRII @ 70mm 1/250th f22 100iso
Speedotron 102 head with 7" Reflector pointed at white ceiling (9' high) from about 4' away, in Speedotron 2405 Powerpack @ 100%
It's a nice setup. The brass in the background is really interesting. You have a reflection problem with the second gun from the top on the right side. It's also a little dark on the bottom, so your diffusion isn't working as well as you want. Maybe move the shiny reflective gun to the bottom. The f/22 aperture isn't doing you any favors; if you change it to about f/11 or f/8, sharpness will improve.
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  #311  
Old 08-17-2014, 10:40 PM
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It's a nice setup. The brass in the background is really interesting. You have a reflection problem with the second gun from the top on the right side. It's also a little dark on the bottom, so your diffusion isn't working as well as you want. Maybe move the shiny reflective gun to the bottom. The f/22 aperture isn't doing you any favors; if you change it to about f/11 or f/8, sharpness will improve.
Are you talking about the p220 Match Stainless Elite's grips? They're Hogue Aluminum Brushed Gloss Anodized....they're actually supposed to look like that when they reflect light ... See: http://www.hoguestore.com/index.php?...oducts_id=5628

It's dark at the bottom because I burned the corners down to take the curse off the hot brass.

If you want something to criticize, I would offer up the upper right hand corner of the image where I sloppily over-dodged the Nils grips on the X-Six and some of the brass just to the right of the grip is washed out.

While you are correct that sharpness would improve a few stops open, I was more intent on maximum depth of field as I was simultaneously shooting tighter details and wanted to hold the background as the compression increased, so...there you have it....but thanks for looking!

Last edited by Hollywood_Shooter; 08-17-2014 at 10:50 PM..
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  #312  
Old 08-18-2014, 5:26 AM
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Default How to photograph handguns (Updated for 2013 post #3!)

Quote:
Originally Posted by Hollywood_Shooter View Post
Are you talking about the p220 Match Stainless Elite's grips? They're Hogue Aluminum Brushed Gloss Anodized....they're actually supposed to look like that when they reflect light ... See: http://www.hoguestore.com/index.php?...oducts_id=5628

It's dark at the bottom because I burned the corners down to take the curse off the hot brass.

If you want something to criticize, I would offer up the upper right hand corner of the image where I sloppily over-dodged the Nils grips on the X-Six and some of the brass just to the right of the grip is washed out.

While you are correct that sharpness would improve a few stops open, I was more intent on maximum depth of field as I was simultaneously shooting tighter details and wanted to hold the background as the compression increased, so...there you have it....but thanks for looking!
I really liked it. I wouldn't have the courage to try it because the brass is so reflective and there's nothing you can do about it; maybe I'd stack two exposures in Photoshop to darken the brass or just knock down some of the hot spots, but that's really hard to do and your result came out well. But it could make a nice poster. I only have a Glock, and it's not as photogenic as your collection. I wish I had a higher res version to see.
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  #313  
Old 08-20-2014, 10:03 PM
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Took some of my newly acquired pistols into the studio to do some photos. Here's how they came out!











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  #314  
Old 08-20-2014, 10:07 PM
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Originally Posted by Hollywood_Shooter View Post


Nikon D800e with 24-70 f.28 VRII @ 70mm 1/250th f22 100iso
Speedotron 102 head with 7" Reflector pointed at white ceiling (9' high) from about 4' away, in Speedotron 2405 Powerpack @ 100%
I personally feel the white balance is a little off. Here is my post corrections done for you.


Many of the photos I see on here look pretty good composition wise, but the amateur photographer really needs some white balance corrections.

65Mustang's photos are perfect example of this. Here is an example with color corrections to one of the images.

Before

After:
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Smith & Wesson M&P 9 / M&P 9c / M&P 9Shield / M&P 15T / M&P10
Mossberg MVP 16.25" .308 / Maverick Model 88 Security 8-Shot 12ga / Hunter O/U 12ga
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Walther PPK Interarms .380
Beretta 950B Minx .22 Short

Last edited by Dattebayo; 08-20-2014 at 10:18 PM..
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  #315  
Old 08-22-2014, 9:05 AM
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nice pictures! great gun porn
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  #316  
Old 09-05-2014, 8:14 PM
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I use inframview to alter my images.


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Old 09-09-2014, 6:10 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ElDub1950 View Post
Any knowledgeable person want to do a condensed version for people using phone cameras?

I think there are probably some very basic tips that can help them too.

I mean, some folks haven't grasped the idea that holding their black gun in front of their back tee shirt while wearing their black tactical gloves, probably won't make a decent pic
You can take great pics with a cell phone, but you should use a high quality phone. IE, if you are trying to rock a flip phone from 4 years ago or a budget phone from Walmart there isn't much to work with because the resolution will be low.

I use a Samsung Note II to take my photos along with a light box. The Galaxy and Note lines have excellent high megapixel cameras - a lot of new camera technology is skipping dedicated cameras and getting put into phones because consumers buy phones every two years or less while camera upgrades are much fewer and far between.

Anyway, here is a shot of my light box:



I bought three clamp on lights from Wal-mart and use florescent bulbs. The light box is a card board box that I cut out square sections from. The white material draped around it is tissue paper - you can add more sheets to adjust the lighting. The wooden frame is an old shelving set with the shelves removed and a chair hung upside down from the top allowing me to mount lights from the top and sides. The backing is a piece of matte poster board (need to replace it, getting dirty).

For phone settings all I really do is turn off flash and crank up the Exposure in the settings. If it is a close up detail shot then I switch to Macro. I do a little bit of post processing in Photoshop - it is pretty mandatory to use a program like Photoshop to adjust white balance. Better to make the image too bright then to make it to dark - easier to lower brightness then raise it.

The below pictures were all taken in the light box (in Camp Lejeune, NC) with the exception of the AR pistol which was taken right in front of the light box on a concrete floor with the lights all pointed on it.

CLICK FOR BIG








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  #318  
Old 09-12-2014, 11:17 AM
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Česká Zbrojovka CZ 452 Trainer 22LR / CZ 712 - 26'' Barrel 12ga
Česká Zbrojovka CZ 2014 P-07 Black / 75B 9mm SAO / 75B 40SW SAO / P-01 NATO
Smith & Wesson M&P 9 / M&P 9c / M&P 9Shield / M&P 15T / M&P10
Mossberg MVP 16.25" .308 / Maverick Model 88 Security 8-Shot 12ga / Hunter O/U 12ga
Sphinx SDP Black Line 9mm
Walther PPK Interarms .380
Beretta 950B Minx .22 Short

Last edited by Dattebayo; 09-17-2014 at 10:52 AM..
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  #319  
Old 09-14-2014, 2:47 PM
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Dattebayo Dattebayo is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by fadlly99 View Post


It seems the color looks a little green to me, but that is probably because browsers doesn't register the color pallet you used. When I brought it up in bridge, it corrected the color then I converted it to RGB and took out a little bit of green and it looks better.

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Česká Zbrojovka CZ 452 Trainer 22LR / CZ 712 - 26'' Barrel 12ga
Česká Zbrojovka CZ 2014 P-07 Black / 75B 9mm SAO / 75B 40SW SAO / P-01 NATO
Smith & Wesson M&P 9 / M&P 9c / M&P 9Shield / M&P 15T / M&P10
Mossberg MVP 16.25" .308 / Maverick Model 88 Security 8-Shot 12ga / Hunter O/U 12ga
Sphinx SDP Black Line 9mm
Walther PPK Interarms .380
Beretta 950B Minx .22 Short
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  #320  
Old 09-17-2014, 4:02 AM
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ParadigmShift ParadigmShift is offline
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I've been holding off buying a DSLR camera for years to buy guns, and this thread doesn't help my poor wallet at all!

Ill contribute something from my cell phone camera for now...

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Last edited by ParadigmShift; 09-17-2014 at 7:55 PM..
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