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  #1  
Old 11-30-2017, 7:48 AM
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Default Cutting down a shotgun barrel

I picked up a cheap 1897, in well used condition, fairly cheap, with a 30" barrel. I'd like to cut it down. I was thinking trench gun but it seems like the heat shield and bayonet lug are NLA (they used to be fairly easy to find) so maybe I'll go that length but not add a heat shield or bayonet lug.

What's the best way to cut it down? I don't have a lathe big enough for it, should I cut it a little long with a hacksaw and then square it up on the mill? What's a decent way of breaking the edges? Should I chamfer the inside?
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Old 11-30-2017, 7:57 AM
shafferds shafferds is offline
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You could start with a hacksaw than true it on the mill or better yet lathe if yours is big enough. Chamfer the inside lip.
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Old 11-30-2017, 8:07 AM
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I did it on the mill....



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  #4  
Old 11-30-2017, 8:29 AM
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Originally Posted by shafferds View Post
You could start with a hacksaw than true it on the mill or better yet lathe if yours is big enough. Chamfer the inside lip.
Sadly my lathe isn't big enough, I'd use it if it was.

How much of a chamfer? Just break the edge?
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I will never buy another Spikes Tactical item, as I have a 5.45 marked barrel from them with a 5.56 bore that keyholed at 25 yards, and they wouldn't replace it.

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Old 11-30-2017, 8:49 AM
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Originally Posted by Junkie View Post
Sadly my lathe isn't big enough, I'd use it if it was.

How much of a chamfer? Just break the edge?
You can make an expanding mandrel that you tighten into the chamber and then chuck up the mandrel.
This will let you spin the barrel in the lathe and use piloted tooling to support and square the muzzle end.
You could also support it with a steady rest if it does not have a rib.
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  #6  
Old 11-30-2017, 9:09 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by shafferds View Post
You could start with a hacksaw than true it on the mill...
If you do it this way, you'll have a nice factory appearance with no blue on the cut end which looks pretty good as is.
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Old 11-30-2017, 9:21 AM
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Cut it with a hacksaw and square up the cut; not difficult and quick. Or, if you are adventurous, cut it at a 45 and see if it will shoot around corners.
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Old 11-30-2017, 9:55 AM
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It's a shotgun. Have some fun with it and go medieval. Instead of a bayonet, crenellate the end of the barrel with some sharp zig-zag cuts. Just kidding it might not be safe.

Maybe cut it off at an angle and see what that does to the pattern, if anything. Leave enough barrel to cut it straight though. A band saw would work well.

Or...
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Old 11-30-2017, 3:13 PM
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I've done it with hacksaws ..... use a new blade for crying out loud.
Ran masking tape around barrel to mark my line and had at it.
Not hard , use new blade , wrap the tape and mark ..... watch what you are doing.
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Old 11-30-2017, 3:32 PM
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Is this a real Winchester 1897 or a Chinese replica, like Norinco?
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  #11  
Old 12-01-2017, 9:49 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ar15barrels View Post
You can make an expanding mandrel that you tighten into the chamber and then chuck up the mandrel.
This will let you spin the barrel in the lathe and use piloted tooling to support and square the muzzle end.
You could also support it with a steady rest if it does not have a rib.
My lathe is a tiny Chinese POS, 7x12 IIRC, so it isn't long enough even for the cut down barrel.
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Is this a real Winchester 1897 or a Chinese replica, like Norinco?
real, mid-50s manufacture IIRC
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I will never buy another Spikes Tactical item, as I have a 5.45 marked barrel from them with a 5.56 bore that keyholed at 25 yards, and they wouldn't replace it.

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A real live woman is more expensive than a fleshlight. Which would you rather have?
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  #12  
Old 12-08-2017, 1:40 PM
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Is this a real Winchester 1897 or a Chinese replica, like Norinco?
It sounded to me like an original Winchester.

IF so, pleeeeeeeeeeeeeeeese leave to old girl alone. It is probably approaching 100 year old. Unmolested examples are getting rare due to the CAS guy butchering them.

IF you want a riot gun get an 870.
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  #13  
Old 12-16-2017, 8:00 PM
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Quote:
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It sounded to me like an original Winchester.

IF so, pleeeeeeeeeeeeeeeese leave to old girl alone. It is probably approaching 100 year old. Unmolested examples are getting rare due to the CAS guy butchering them.

IF you want a riot gun get an 870.
Or get the $300 Chinese knockoff.
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  #14  
Old 12-17-2017, 3:43 AM
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Man you guys can't read can you? He said it's a mid 1950's manufactured weapon
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Old 12-17-2017, 6:57 AM
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go old school hacksaw close to where you want it and file it square. It has been don't that way for decades and as long as you take your time it can be done clean.
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Old 12-18-2017, 10:46 AM
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go old school hacksaw close to where you want it and file it square. It has been don't that way for decades and as long as you take your time it can be done clean.
IF he has to ask about how to cut a barrel what are the chances of getting the bead located and installed right?

The result will be another screwed up old gun. Just makes mine more valuable....
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Old 12-18-2017, 11:00 AM
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30 inch barrels are harder to find than shorter barrels. Maybe check numrich or gun broker and find another barrel or if it's a takedown barrel assembly
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Old 12-18-2017, 3:53 PM
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Originally Posted by xsefan View Post
30 inch barrels are harder to find than shorter barrels. Maybe check numrich or gun broker and find another barrel or if it's a takedown barrel assembly
Agreed, there are plenty of barrels that have been previously damaged with polychokes and getting dented. They are a good candidate. And, please cut and crown using a lathe. Drill the bead hole using a mill. No point in doing a hack job.

Be well
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  #19  
Old 12-18-2017, 5:36 PM
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You could put the barrel up for trade here or on Gunboards........trade it for a cut-down barrel, that way you don't butcher the original one.

I have done the hacksaw thing a time or two. I used a pipe cutter to make sure I got the line perfect.

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  #20  
Old 12-19-2017, 7:42 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Scota4570 View Post
IF he has to ask about how to cut a barrel what are the chances of getting the bead located and installed right?

The result will be another screwed up old gun. Just makes mine more valuable....
Or maybe I'm not a horrible machinist but figured I'd ask before cutting things.


If this was an early manufacture gun, I wouldn't cut it. If it was in great shape, I wouldn't cut it. However, it's neither. It's a well used 1950s gun that I paid $200 for.

https://imgur.com/a/ZHUsb has some pictures of it.
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I will never buy another Spikes Tactical item, as I have a 5.45 marked barrel from them with a 5.56 bore that keyholed at 25 yards, and they wouldn't replace it.

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Originally Posted by CSACANNONEER View Post
A real live woman is more expensive than a fleshlight. Which would you rather have?
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  #21  
Old 01-04-2018, 10:27 PM
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Old post I know but if you still have plans on making a trench gun out of it, the bayonet mount that clamps onto the barrel wont work on a take down. You would end up removing the mount every time you want to break the 97 down. Trench guns were solid frames. Also you would have to file three notches on the underside of the barrel. Research it before you go to far on attempting to make a trench gun out of it. As a CAS shooter and the owner of 5 Winnie 97s, I can contest there getting harder to find in good shape. 4 of the ones I got are cut down from 20 to 22 inches.
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  #22  
Old 01-04-2018, 11:02 PM
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I'm sure someone would trade a cut solid frame for a takedown.
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