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  #1  
Old 01-17-2020, 10:47 PM
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Default Favorite DIY gun finishes

Hey everyone, what are your favorite gun finishes that you have done yourself?

I've done Rustoleum spray paint so far, and it has worked decently on my new 870.
I am wondering how much better Duracoat is. Anyone got experience?

Any other DIY finishes you love?

Before and after pictures of my 870. in pics.
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  #2  
Old 01-17-2020, 10:54 PM
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Looks great! Do you know how it will stand up to CLP or other cleaners?
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Old 01-17-2020, 11:09 PM
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Friend has a small sandblasting box. Took my 870 down to metal and he cerakoted it black. Then I bought a camo stencil kit on amazon, a 4 can krylon camo kit and started spraying it. Canít remember the order but youíre supposed to apply either the dark or light colors first?

Found the pic - looks like I only sprayed the barrel with krylon.
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Last edited by NATEWA; 01-17-2020 at 11:28 PM..
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Old 01-17-2020, 11:10 PM
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https://www.brownells.com/gunsmith-t...-prod1117.aspx

People have good results with this.
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Old 01-18-2020, 12:58 AM
rmnc3r rmnc3r is offline
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For Steel: Mark Lee Express Blue #1 in conjuction with Birchwood Casey's Perma Blue

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Old 01-18-2020, 1:38 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by sirvimmy View Post
Hey everyone, what are your favorite gun finishes that you have done yourself?

Any other DIY finishes you love?
Parkerizing on iron based steels.


Sandblast or Glassbead blasting on stainless steels.


Glassbead blasting on aluminum before being clear or black anodized:
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Last edited by ar15barrels; 01-18-2020 at 1:40 AM..
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Old 01-18-2020, 8:04 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by lt05deluxe View Post
Looks great! Do you know how it will stand up to CLP or other cleaners?
I think it is barely stands up to cleaners. I basically don't oil the outside at all any more, and just balistol the internals. Anywhere the balistol runs onto the paint on the outside starts to chip at the paint just a tiny bit.

I think at this point id call that spray paint a decent color option, but not rugged enough for any longer term durability. But It is easy to strip, and repaint, which is good for people who like to change color alot.

I've since repainted that shotgun, not because it was doing bad with the fde in terms of durability, but because I wanted to try a new color. So I took it to gloss black.

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Old 01-18-2020, 8:07 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by NATEWA View Post
Friend has a small sandblasting box. Took my 870 down to metal and he cerakoted it black. Then I bought a camo stencil kit on amazon, a 4 can krylon camo kit and started spraying it. Canít remember the order but youíre supposed to apply either the dark or light colors first?



Found the pic - looks like I only sprayed the barrel with krylon.
How's that holding up as far as durability? Did it solve the 870 rust problem?

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Old 01-18-2020, 10:30 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by sirvimmy View Post
Did it solve the 870 rust problem?
Parkerizing does.
Those 870 Express guns are already blasted.
They just used black oxide instead of park.
Black oxide does nothing for rust prevention.
Oil stops rust.
Park holds oil better than any other finish.

Painting is just covering up the problem, not curing the problem.
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  #10  
Old 01-18-2020, 11:07 AM
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I havent done many finishes at home, but I have coated one frame with Brownells teflon-moly bake on spray

https://www.brownells.com/gunsmith-t...-prod1145.aspx

Bead blast then clean extremely well, a few coats of paint, then bake. Its not bulletproof, but its pretty tough, the rails are slick as can be and it hasn't worn through. It can scratch but its not easy to scratch, I have a few small scratches in the magwell and one on the front of the grip from shooting with a ring on. Overall pretty easy to use and I'm happy with the results



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Old 01-18-2020, 12:50 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by sirvimmy View Post
How's that holding up as far as durability? Did it solve the 870 rust problem?

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Cerakote is holding up well. No rust anywhere.

Respray the krylon after the hunting season.
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Old 01-18-2020, 4:21 PM
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Iíve had good results with ďAluma-Hyde IIĒ form Brownells . Itís pretty easy to use and doesnít require any specialized equipment.


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Old 01-18-2020, 5:47 PM
Dago Red Dago Red is offline
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This is gonna seem like an odd thing but I want to cerakoate or similar my stainless 1911 I love the look a gun gets from honest wear, the downside to stainless is it just ends up with shiny spots. Would cerakoate be good for that? Something better?

Red
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  #14  
Old 01-18-2020, 6:03 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Dago Red View Post
This is gonna seem like an odd thing but I want to cerakoate or similar my stainless 1911 I love the look a gun gets from honest wear, the downside to stainless is it just ends up with shiny spots. Would cerakoate be good for that? Something better?

Red
That would look cool! I feel like cerakote would last for so long you wouldn't get it battleworn too fast. Maybe duracoat like coyote brown in a light coat over the stainless. That would awesome

Anyone ever done a stainless looking finish? Like a marinecoat

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Old 01-24-2020, 7:28 PM
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Favorite finish would depend on the gun & the material. AK's, shotguns & some rifles should be parkerized & saturated with used motor oil (IMO) - I've done some of each & they have aged well. AR's, most pistols & some rifles should be Anodized (IMO). Of course there are materials to consider - only aluminum can be anodized & only (non-stainless) steel can be parkerized.

I've used Brownell's Aluma-Hyde II it worked well and has held up well.

In addition to firearms I've done all of the above to motorcycle parts and they hold up well also. I've done Aluma-Hyde II as a base coat on motorcycle parts (kind of like a primer), cure it with a heat gun, and then covered that with 2 coats of Wrinkle Black (curing with a heat gun between coats) - that holds up to a lot of punishment, chemicals (like brake fluid, transmission fluid, gas, etc), and looks great - it's my personal favorite for motorcycle parts.

I will point out that Parkerizing only etches the surface for lubrication/protection to adhere to. If you let it dry and don't re-oil the part will rust. I've had this happen on knives & motorcycle parts - hopefully gun parts never get that dry.

I've used Rustoleum also and I've not been impressed with how it lasts over time. I'm sure it would look good for a little while, but it won't last. I am intrigued by the idea above of cerakote and paint over it - the top paint could be touched up or redone without affecting the protective layer.
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Old 01-25-2020, 12:34 PM
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Oxoblu? I think it's called? (Brownells)
Will be doing rust bluing in the summer on a worn to ****e pparts kit just to see how bad I will screw it up.
Dream of doing park but my freinds have yet to snatch stainless steel panels so I can weld a makeshift mini tank.
For spray paint: self etching primer from rustoleum two coats and then 2-3 coats of rustoleum matte black engine paint( it is enamel based, for temps exceeding 900+).
I spray painted a mossberg 500ATP with the rustoleum and yup good clean and durable, paint rubs off but very very little and oil does not eat away at it like other paints.
No substitute for park or nitride but $$ is always a issue.

Before I forget , cleaning is the most important part(learned the hard way when it came to bluing and SP)
Break cleaner followed by a good dowsing of goof off.

Last edited by PachecoFTW; 01-25-2020 at 12:44 PM..
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Old 09-26-2020, 7:20 PM
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I really like Allegheny Arsenal Manganese Park. It's much simpler, and easier to use than the Brownells. I tried the Brownells, and couldn't get it to work.
I just finished 2 Polytech M14S rifle, which come a dark grey. Now those rifles are really black.
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  #18  
Old 09-26-2020, 10:20 PM
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Parkerizing is great but a CCW pistol with oil is tough on clothing


Alumnahyde - both air cure and bake on work well

Shake the cans with a timer. If it’s older stuff- shake 3 min. Rest - shake another 3.

Buy extra spray nozzles.

Molly Resin by norrels is fantastic. Applies with an airbrush



Paints/ coatings need a correctly prepped surface. Glass beads can leave a too smooth finish. Aluminum oxide leaves better surface for sprays to a bear to.


If you can Parkerize a steel gun, it is a great surface to coat. (Don’t oil after parkerizing)

Park
Dry
Bake at 150-170 for 30 minutes in a preheated oven so it is dry

Let cool to 90-100 degrees and spray.
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Old 10-17-2020, 8:25 PM
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I've had excellent results using plain old Krylon 1618 barbeque paint. The key is heat it up and 3-4 even light coats and keep it hot the entire time. Then bake it for a couple hours at 200f-225f . A fresh blast is best for substrate, if not sand to bare metal works.
A little navel jelly or even concrete cleaner can help to treat the bare metal before painting, pretty much anything with phosphoric acid or even hot vinegar can work. You're just etching the surface to allow oil or whatever finish to penetrate into the metal.

Gunkote works okay. In my experience touch ups suck. It doesn't lay like moly resin and the GK isn't as durable. I used to build a crap ton of AK's and greasy parts are the norm. I can get Moly Resin to lay down and stick even with oil bleeding out.

My go to for my stuff is AH2. I swear by that stuff and I can have a gun ready to go in 6 hours, not 7 days. If you have older cans to use, roll them up in towels and tape the towels so they don't come out. Toss them in the dryer for 5-10 mins. It will heat them up and mix it up properly.
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Old 11-13-2020, 12:03 PM
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I use high heat engine paint
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Old 11-13-2020, 12:34 PM
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About a million years ago, it seems, I finished a bare steel barrel of a percussion cap rifle kit with Birchwood Casey cold bluing, or something very similar. It wasn't as easy as the durable spray paint type finishes we have today but it came up very nice looking (for an amateur job done by youth) with the negative being it was slightly toxic and you had to wear gloves and make a bit of a mess.

The surprising part is that old flintlock rifle went in the back of a closet for many years in a coastal city, where theoretically the moisture is higher than some locations.
But somehow after many years it still look good with no rust of any type to be found on it, just a little bit of dust on it.
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