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  #1  
Old 05-21-2018, 2:30 PM
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Default J Frame spring kit

Hello to all,

I was wondering if anyone has replaced there springs in there S & W J frame revolvers to lighten the trigger pull? It appears there a pretty wide selection to choose from brand name wise.

Can anyone recommend a set for my J frame?

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  #2  
Old 05-21-2018, 2:38 PM
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#1) Don't finger-Puck the factory installed OEM springs in your J frame if you want your J frame to work properly.

#2) If you want to re-spring something start with your mattress.

#3) Should the above information be discarded then please send me the OEM parts that you are replacing. There are plenty of owners who adopted abused Smith & Weasals that are in need of parts.
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  #3  
Old 05-21-2018, 2:48 PM
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I've replaced the springs in my Model 60 (30+ year old CHP trade in) and my recent purchase Model 638 with Wolff springs.

The 638 improved a decent amount, the model 60 is amazing and neither one had a bit of change in their reliability.
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  #4  
Old 05-21-2018, 3:39 PM
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I had the Apex duty kit installed by them in my 642 when they were up north. I've never had any reliability issues with it.
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Old 05-21-2018, 3:47 PM
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I dry fired 2000+ times in addition to 1,000 rounds through a 442 & 642 and both triggers are very nice now. Shoot it more and give it time.
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Old 05-21-2018, 3:49 PM
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Check gun springs.com or Brownells. They're a snap to change.
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  #7  
Old 05-21-2018, 4:00 PM
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Wolff sells a pack of 5 different weight springs so you can swap around to find what works best for you.
https://www.midwayusa.com/product/65...-j-k-l-n-frame
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Old 05-21-2018, 4:30 PM
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I've used the kit in Old4eyes post (above) and springs from Apex in about a dozen J frames and have not had a reduction in reliability once you determine the correct power spring for your gun (trial and error). The one exception was a pre-model 37 that would have FTF on about 1 out of 5 rounds of reloads only - factory ammo worked without fail. I finally broke down and installed an extended hammer nose and that solved the problem. I suggest the Wolff kit mentioned above.
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Old 05-21-2018, 5:33 PM
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Just make sure you take off and reinstall the side plate correctly.
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  #10  
Old 05-21-2018, 5:34 PM
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I went with lighter springs and had many failures-to-fire. I reinstalled the factory springs and resolved the failures-to-fire.
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Old 05-21-2018, 6:03 PM
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Old 05-21-2018, 8:44 PM
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Never changed springs on any of my Smiths, never need d too. But that said I’ve heard the inexpensive J frames aren’t very good.

But I did change them on a Tuarus 85 ultra light. It’s trigger stock was no surprise horrible, not only was it heavy as hell but it stacked really bad nothing smooth about it. I ended up ordering the Wolff Hammer and Trigger spring kit for it. Put the 9lb hammer spring and the 6.5 trigger spring in, had to cut one coil of the trigger spring for it to work. The pull has very nice and smooth after, but I could tell right away the hammer was not dropping with enough force. Sure enough every other round failed to fire, so what I did was leave the Wolff trigger spring in and put the stock hammer spring back in. That worked the trigger is still much smoother and a little lighter and fires every round.
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  #13  
Old 05-22-2018, 12:36 AM
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Wolff springs, get variety pack so you can find what works well.

Too light, and it won't work on harder primers (you have to reload, use fully seated Federal primers). Too light trigger return spring, and you'll have problems with reset, particularly at speed. Find a sweet spot, though, and you'll love it.
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Old 05-22-2018, 6:48 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by IVC View Post
Wolff springs, get variety pack so you can find what works well.

Too light, and it won't work on harder primers (you have to reload, use fully seated Federal primers). Too light trigger return spring, and you'll have problems with reset, particularly at speed. Find a sweet spot, though, and you'll love it.
What I did. Actually, I ended up with the stock hammer spring and just lightened the trigger spring.
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Old 05-22-2018, 10:16 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by keith1911 View Post
I had the Apex duty kit installed by them in my 642 when they were up north. I've never had any reliability issues with it.
Ditto.
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  #16  
Old 05-22-2018, 10:36 AM
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I installed an Apex duty kit in my 442. Took about 20 minutes. The videos that Apex has online are very detailed. It dropped the trigger pull from 11.5# to 9.5#. Make sure you have the correct screwdriver for removing the side plate. Also, although not necessary, I found this tool to be very useful to remove and install the new rebound slide spring:

http://www.gunsmithertools.com/smith...ng-/index.html

Dry firing about 1000 times also smoothed out the trigger. It's not as nice as my Det. Special but it's much better.
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  #17  
Old 05-23-2018, 11:41 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Pofoo View Post
What I did. Actually, I ended up with the stock hammer spring and just lightened the trigger spring.
I was just going to ask if that works. I also bought a spring pack from WC, it had the trigger return spring in a few flavors and the main spring. Does changing the return spring make a noticeable difference? Or is all the heaviness in the main spring?
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  #18  
Old 05-23-2018, 11:42 AM
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I tried the Apex kit in my 642-2. It was an utter disappointment. Trigger pull was lightened at the cost of reliable ignition. Removed that kit, threw it in the junkbox, installed a Wolf mainspring, and reinstalled the original firing pin, firing pin spring and rebound spring.
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Old 05-23-2018, 3:45 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Lead Waster View Post
I was just going to ask if that works. I also bought a spring pack from WC, it had the trigger return spring in a few flavors and the main spring. Does changing the return spring make a noticeable difference? Or is all the heaviness in the main spring?
The trigger return spring made the biggest difference. Use the lightest spring that will get you reliable trigger reset. The lighter hammer/main spring produced a few light primer strikes. That is why I returned to using the stock spring.
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  #20  
Old 05-23-2018, 10:41 PM
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I gave a link to Midway USA selling Wolff TRIGGER REBOUND SPRINGS. I then see folks claiming they have tried lighter springs and had problems with light primer strikes. That is not going to happen changing the TRS. The TRS has no bearing on how hard the hammer/firing pin strikes, that's the job of the HAMMER spring.
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Old 05-23-2018, 11:13 PM
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Just a thought...
For a revolver that might be used for self defense, the only real "jamming" concern is not letting the trigger go far enough forward to reset after firing a shot...this is called "short stroking".
With adrenaline pumped hand muscles that tend to naturally clench, you want a firm and strong reset...a trigger return that pushes forward with some authority against your finger.

Defense guns and guns for fun are two different animals.

Defense is set up for maximum reliability when thinking may be directed to other pressing needs and fine muscle control may not be working so well.

Guns for fun can be anything you want since real stress is not part of the equation.
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Old 05-23-2018, 11:18 PM
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like Mr K I used Wolff on my Model 60 S&W.
however, mine pistol isn't vintage as is his......
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  #23  
Old 05-24-2018, 6:49 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ojisan View Post
Just a thought...
For a revolver that might be used for self defense, the only real "jamming" concern is not letting the trigger go far enough forward to reset after firing a shot...this is called "short stroking".
With adrenaline pumped hand muscles that tend to naturally clench, you want a firm and strong reset...a trigger return that pushes forward with some authority against your finger.

Defense guns and guns for fun are two different animals.

Defense is set up for maximum reliability when thinking may be directed to other pressing needs and fine muscle control may not be working so well.

Guns for fun can be anything you want since real stress is not part of the equation.
I'll second what you said. I changed the trigger rebound spring on my S&W 60 and the trigger does not reliably return forward, so I went back to the factory spring. I now realize that S&W selected their factory springs for reliability.
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Old 05-24-2018, 3:37 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Kestryll View Post
I've replaced the springs in my Model 60 (30+ year old CHP trade in) and my recent purchase Model 638 with Wolff springs.

The 638 improved a decent amount, the model 60 is amazing and neither one had a bit of change in their reliability.
Kestryll,

I'm heading to Turner's this weekend. If I get what I want I may go ahead with this project and have all the springs in all my revolver collection done. I'll also look into Wolf Springs to start. Is there a recommended item number or weight number I need to consider?

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Old 05-24-2018, 3:50 PM
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For Post#24:
Try reading Wolff's webpage regarding its J-frame springs,
https://www.gunsprings.com/SMITH%20&...3/mID58/dID263

Try the 8 pound hammer spring; and
the 15 pound rebound spring.
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  #26  
Old 05-24-2018, 3:57 PM
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Polishing the action wil make it smoother and lighter, than just replacing the springs. An job with tuned springs is the way to go.
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  #27  
Old 05-24-2018, 4:19 PM
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I have a 351PD (Personal Defense) - a 10.8 oz (unloaded) 7-shot .22 Magnum that I did throw a Wolff hammer spring into. It made the DA pull tolerable. I was cautioned beforehand that this may result in light strikes with some WMR ammo.

AND, Coach Eddie was right. Now, since I cannot see 100% reliable ignition with all major-name-brand WMR (Winchester cartridges are where I'll see one or two FTF out of seven... CCI/Speer and Remington stuff has far more reliable ignition with this lighter spring), I am going to reinstall the factory hammer spring. No FTF is acceptable in a defensive situation. If I have the time to target shoot in a defense scenario, I can simply shoot single action. Wonderful little gun, otherwise.

I have a Model 60-15 that other than a grip change I haven't touched except to shoot and clean. With the grip change, 125-grain .357 loads aren't too bad! and this with Altamont wood. They seem to fit my hand better, taking the recoil impulse from the web of my thumb by filling better the palm of my hand. I may try the lighter Wolff from the 351PD since centerfire cartridge primers aren't so finicky. Be an interesting test.

Thanks for the thread topic!
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Old 05-24-2018, 5:49 PM
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Quote:
I may try the lighter Wolff from the 351PD since centerfire cartridge primers aren't so finicky. Be an interesting test.
After swapping the 351 mainspring, dryfiring (not much! since it's an aluminum alloy frame), then dryfiring the J-Magnum frame Model 60-15, a hammer spring change es no necessario mit der 60.

The 351PD went back to "agh. whatta pull." and the 60-15 stayed at "Is this a Performance Center gun?".

Leaving the 60 alone.
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