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Gunsmithing & How To Pro, Amateur & WECSOG and Tutorials, Guides & OLL Build Instructions |
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#81
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Finally got around to sanding, pre-stain, and staining. I went with "Ebony" stain and so far I have 3 coats on. Right now my only concern is if I'm going to get the desired color w/o washing out the wood grain in the process. Hopefully with a little luck and if the wood co-operates I'll end up with a nice rich black & grey finish with small accents of red along some of the grain and where there's a few "knots" of it. I have a feeling I'm going to need another few coats to get the desired effect. The fact that I'm going to be leaving town either tomorrow or the next day doesn't help matters. I at least want to be done with the staining before I leave.
Oh and the steamer worked well but I lost interest when I lost concentration and accidentally burned myself
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#83
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jdewolf, lets see some pics!
Mike, thanks for the compliments! I tried the tung oil and I've found that I prefer the wipe on poly, it has a smoother texture when it's all done, the tung oil still looks great too though. Here's a tung oil set. Here's a wipe on poly set.
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KTO 1911 80% + Rock Island Parts Kits + Aimsmall arms 1911 Jig group buy OPEN http://www.calguns.net/calgunforum/s...d.php?t=900371 AR15+AR10 80% JIGS in stock http://www.calguns.net/calgunforum/s...7#post12529807 Last edited by AIMSMALL; 12-30-2010 at 11:10 PM.. |
#84
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so I finished my sks stock, and I have to say for the first time around it didnt turn out too bad
what I did is after I baked the stock to sweat out the cosmoline, I took Krud Kutter (bought at target) and boiling water to clean the stock the rest of the way, when I finished that step the stock looked a thousand times better. The instead of using any wood stripper I steamed the whole furniture with an iron and a rag to even out everything I could and lift the old stain from the wood. after letting it dry for 24 hours I skipped the pre-stain and went straight to the staining process with minwax red mohogany, put 3 coats of that on then proceeded with 3 coats of minwax wipe on poly (the satin one). the project turned out better than I'd thought! the only blemish is one gouge in the wood I tried to fill in, the filler I used didn't take to the stain too well, thats my only problem with my first time. Last edited by semperfidelis354; 01-03-2011 at 12:23 PM.. |
#85
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Not quite how I envisioned how it would turn out. Between visiting Nor Cal, coming back for a night, and then leaving town again, and then coming back with a nasty cold my plans got a little derailed. It looks decent but I got some nasty streaks that I didn't notice before I let the final coating of poly fully cure. I blame the nasty cold for that one. All in all I'm pretty happy with how it turned out. It could have been a lot better if I gave it more time and attention. For the first time around though I'm mildly happy with the results. Oh I would have gone for a darker look [more coats] but at a certain point the wood just wouldn't take anymore stain. I think I ended up with 5 1/2 coats of stain. When I'd clean off the last coat I was getting a lot of stain on my rags. I'm not sure if the cold and rain affected the curing or what.
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#87
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jdewolf, you can fix the streaks by sanding the out carefully and then adding some more wipe on poly. For darker color you would need either a darker stain or just to add a little bit of a darker stain to the color you were using, as you said after awhile it won't absorb any more stain. I think it looks pretty good but the picture isn't that great either.
SemperFi, your SKS looks great, thanks for posting the pics here
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#88
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Well I gave it a shot.....I think that I should have used a more red stain as they didn't turn out the color I wanted (USED GUNSTOCK). I refinished a set of Romy-G handguards and I did evertyhing exactly as you listed. I ran into some issues with the parts not drying as fast as I think it was just really cold and moist whee I was refinishing them. I tried using a infra-red heat lamp but that is a big no-no as it actually started to make the wood oooze sap! I have gotten 2 coats on the wipe on poly on so far and will add the third tomorrow. I will post up some pics when I am finished.
On another note my stocks had some large gouges in them so I tried using wood putty to fill but looks like poop. Oh well trial and error hopefully the next set will look better!Thanks Aimsmall great thread! |
#89
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Quote:
I like to wait overnight between coats and/or apply before work and re-apply afterwork. This way usually allows 8-9 hours between coats which is plenty even if it's cold out.
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#91
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Thanks for the compliments. Your furniture looks great
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KTO 1911 80% + Rock Island Parts Kits + Aimsmall arms 1911 Jig group buy OPEN http://www.calguns.net/calgunforum/s...d.php?t=900371 AR15+AR10 80% JIGS in stock http://www.calguns.net/calgunforum/s...7#post12529807 |
#92
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If you use an unfiltered shellac, like button lac, it removes the need to dye or stain the wood as the red color is an exact match for soviet shellac. Just make sure to filter out most of the bug parts before applying the finish. |
#94
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Quote:
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#95
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I would like to do this. I just got my AK and have not taken it apart yet. On a scale of 1 to 10 how hard is it to get the furniture off? I`m nervous to take the gun apart for the first time. Way more parts to it than my XD40
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#96
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1 being the easiest, it's a 1. The front pieces come off just by flipping a lever and the stock just has 2 screws holding it on. There's a hole in the rear trunnion you can put a large screw driver through to help pursuade it out of the reciever.
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#97
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What area you live in? I'm sure there's sombody close by that can help.
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#98
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On a side note I just took it apart a couple days ago to give it a cleaning. Wasn`t to bad. |
#99
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I'm having a heck of a time getting the wood off of the upper handguard. I tried using a crescent wrench, and tried clamping one end in the vice but the wood won't budge. I'm afraid of doing damage by trying to force it. I'm giving it liberal amounts of WD-40 and I'll try again in the morning. Are there any tricks to doing this, or anyone have any ideas?
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#100
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Quote:
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KTO 1911 80% + Rock Island Parts Kits + Aimsmall arms 1911 Jig group buy OPEN http://www.calguns.net/calgunforum/s...d.php?t=900371 AR15+AR10 80% JIGS in stock http://www.calguns.net/calgunforum/s...7#post12529807 |
#101
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Quote:
If I can't get t off tomorrow I'll probably just do the work with it still on.
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There are some who call me....Tim? |
#102
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Any advice on getting the poly to go on evenly? I've tried applying it with a T-shirt, and with two types of brushes, and everytime i get either streaks and/or little air bubbles. When it dries i sand it with the steel wool to even it all out, but then it just streaks when the next coat goes on. Is there a certain way to get it on evenly, or is it just an issue of getting the coats thick enough to be able to sand it evenly on the final coat?
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#103
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Quote:
1. Is it really cold in the room your doing this in causing the poly to go on really thick? 2. You should not be sanding the final coat as it will dull it up. 3. The sanding between coats is meant to get out any really small imperfections and give the next coat a better surface to stick to.
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#104
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1:Yeah it's the same minwax poly shown in your OP, and it's not particularly cold here.
2,3: That was my understanding, which is why I'm getting confused because if each layer keeps going on like this, the final layer will be uneven. It kinda seems like maybe the poly is too thick. When it goes on it has enough surface tension to prevent it from flattening out and filling in the little valleys left from the application. Any smoothing out I try to do when it's still wet tends to leave new marks. Think it might help to warm the poly prior to application? Any other ideas? |
#105
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Quote:
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#106
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Well I finished my AK47 refinishing project. It took about 4 days. I couldn`t get the the furiture off the rifle so I just did alot of taping and refinished it fully assembled. I finished it with a walnut stain and a satin rub on poly. I think it came out pretty damn good.
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#107
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Looks sweet man, good work.
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KTO 1911 80% + Rock Island Parts Kits + Aimsmall arms 1911 Jig group buy OPEN http://www.calguns.net/calgunforum/s...d.php?t=900371 AR15+AR10 80% JIGS in stock http://www.calguns.net/calgunforum/s...7#post12529807 |
#108
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What ever happened to these aspirations of bakelite refinishing? I was very interested in that.
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#109
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I did start on one piece, I sand blasted it in preparation of a new clear coat then just kinda forgot about it. I'm more curious about how it will look then anything as I don't really have any Bakelite that NEEDS refinishing. This idea was just a fun thing to see if it worked.
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#110
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Has anyone else tried Bakelite refinishing?
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#113
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This is a great thread, thank you!
I did my first two kits today. I think they turned out great. They were both done with Minwax Red mahogany 225. The first set is just one staining and Minwax poly light coating. The second is two times staining waiting 30 minutes to wipe the excess, and waiting 8 hours between staining and did two coats of poly. Note these are both dry but they sure are shiny. #1 #2 -Darth Last edited by darthnugget; 08-18-2011 at 8:47 PM.. |
#115
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I thought this ws mentioned somewhere already but maybe not. The originals are actually dipped into the paint (not sure excatly what type of paint), the easy way to recreate this is to do all the steps in the tutorial but after a few coats of clear tape around the stock where the black line will end and spray paint the bottom part of the stock. once thats all dry apply a few more coats of clear and your done.
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#116
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Used your tutorial with a few tweaks. I started by rubbing the stock with acetone and rags. Then dropped them into a 50/50 solution of clorox and hot water for about 2 hours. Then vinegar and water for about 30 minutes to neutralize the bleach. Let it dry over night, sanded with 220. Hand rubbed onyx stain into the grain, then gloss poly afterwards.
Start After bleach and sand Stained 1 coat of poly Coat number 3 Going for a deep polished clear on these Last edited by sandeggo; 09-12-2011 at 7:07 AM.. |
#117
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Looking good man
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#118
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will the citri strip also remove the cosmo? especially the cosmo that is soaked into the wood itself? meaning, if i use the citistrip, does that eliminate having to put the stock in the oven or sun to sweat out the cosmo?
thanks
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#119
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I have had great luck with the citristrip and have never had to put a stock in the oven, the original finish on the wood should keep most of the cosmo from absorbing into the wood. Give my method a try, I think it will work out just fine.
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#120
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You better believe it... going to buy citistrip from home depot on my lunch break! and other misc items (gloves, steel wool, etc).
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