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  #1  
Old 02-11-2017, 11:44 AM
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Default Help me pick a hunting scope

I just jailed a 30-06 and I'm looking to put some decent glass on top. I've never really done any longer than 100 yard shooting so all my previous scopes are cheap and I prefer irons.
This will be my dedicated hunting rifle for here in CA where shots can be anywhere from 20 yards to 400+. I'd like to set it up and learn to be proficient with it for 400 yards and closer.
I also don't own or want to purchase a range finder, so some sort of MOA or BDC reticle is desirable to help me with ranging and with taking any shots over 300 yd.
Also, I have bass pro gift cards so it has to be available there, and I'd like to keep it under$500. Oh and I like the idea of FFP.

Currently I've settled on the Nikon Prostaff 5 3.5-14 FFP BDC.

But, I'm not a scope guy so I'm sure I haven't explored all the possibility.

So, any suggestions to meet the following criteria?

Available at Bass Pro
Under $500
First Focal Plane
MOA or BDC reticle
Good glass for low light
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Old 02-11-2017, 5:10 PM
Horrendo Revolver Horrendo Revolver is offline
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There aren't may decent FFP scopes under $500.00 and FFP is not really needed for hunting, especially at the range you will be shooting, IMO. In your price range you can get a scope with MUCH better glass than a Prostaff. That's not my opinion but fact.
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Old 02-11-2017, 8:42 PM
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First: buy a rangefinder. They are faster and more reliable than your scope. The mil/moa method of estimating range works best if you have a known size target (36" paper or man-sized). Not so great for deer and other animals of different sizes. What if the deer is bedded down 250yds away and you need to range it? And, most importantly, you don't have to point your rifle at something (which you may not want to destroy) to range it.

As far as FFP reticles, I've found them to be less than ideal for big game hunting because more often than not, you will be hunting at lower magnification and it can be a challenge to pick up a minuscule FFP reticle at 3 or 4x.

Second, buy a good 3-9x40 lightweight scope like a VX-2 and go hunt.

You can get into a vx-2 scope and a decent rangefinder (like a red field) for around $500, maybe a little more depending on your bad and ring choices.
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Old 02-11-2017, 9:09 PM
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SFP is what you want for hunting. The FFP reticles at low power are small.

Nikon makes glass that is more than adequate for hunting. I'd take a hard look at the Vortex Viper HS. 2.5-10x44. I've hunted with a 3.5-10x and never felt under scoped.
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Old 02-11-2017, 9:22 PM
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You can get a range finder and a nice Nikon Monarch, or other brands from Samplelist for the $500 or basically 1 1/2 the scope.

I do plug them frequently, just due to being a frugal shopper...
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  #6  
Old 02-11-2017, 11:23 PM
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I appreciate the suggestions to get a range finder and I expected as much, but elreally, with the 30-06, I don't need to know the distance very precise, what I really need to know is if I'm beyond 300yd.
It's not about price as much as I just hate all the gadgets. Even binoculars seem obnoxious to me.
As far FFP, I just can't wrap my head around the idea that my zero changes if I zoom in or out. That just seems to make things unnecessarily complicated. Also, it doesn't seem to be a problem of too thin a reticle at Low power as much as too thick at high power.
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Old 02-11-2017, 11:50 PM
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If you are willing to step it up to about $800 you should be able to find a trijicon accupoint 2.5-10x 56mm. I have one and it is by far my best hunting scope in that magnification.
Clear glass, amazing light pickup.
A tidy 0.5MOA trijicon dot, and mil dot reticle.
It is 2nd focal plane but I find that if I am reaching out to distances where I am worried about counting out my drop with calculations and mildot instead of good old Kentucky windage (which is my my usual way), then I am probably at full magnification anyway, and then the mildots are actually on spec.
IF you are looking for FFP and have to keep it around $500 I would look right at SWFAs SS 3-9x,
Rock solid construction, mil dot reticle, and FFP.

IF you want FFP, you need to go with Mildot, or MOA reticules, otherwise, there is no point in it at all.

All that said, there is nothing wrong with a simple Leupold vx2 in a 3-9 or the like. They are well under $500 and are excellent scopes. I have them on a few different rifles, and they do a perfectly fine job.
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Old 02-11-2017, 11:54 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by stingray4540 View Post
I appreciate the suggestions to get a range finder and I expected as much, but elreally, with the 30-06, I don't need to know the distance very precise, what I really need to know is if I'm beyond 300yd.
It's not about price as much as I just hate all the gadgets. Even binoculars seem obnoxious to me.
As far FFP, I just can't wrap my head around the idea that my zero changes if I zoom in or out. That just seems to make things unnecessarily complicated. Also, it doesn't seem to be a problem of too thin a reticle at Low power as much as too thick at high power.
your zero won't change, but the moa/mil dots will be out of calculation if not at full (usually) magnification.

If you are zeroing on the intersection of the two crosshairs, then that will always maintain zero, no matter the magnification.

If you don't understand that already. You really have no need whatsoever for FFP.
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  #9  
Old 02-12-2017, 12:39 AM
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There seems to be a lot of confusion and misconception...
First off, Nikon scopes just suck! They should stick to cameras! And BDC is even worse. It's only good unless you are using that exact load, Bullet weight, velocity etc... not going to work for you. You can shoot it and see what the BDC is for your rifle, but not worth it. The low light performance is terrible on Nikon. That's a big deal when hunting!

Go FFP, your zero won't change with the magnification on a SFP, fyi. The hash marks change.. for example if my scope has hash marks at 1 MOA intervals, then a second focal plane scope means it's 1 MOA at (a scope being 3-15 power) 15 power, at 10 power that 1 hash Mark that used to be 1 MOA is now 4.3 MOA or so. That's the beauty of FFP. It's always the same no matter what power you are on.

For the price point you are stuck with... not many good options
Go Sig Tango4. It's FFP and near your price poiny.

Personally get a good scope. I buy once and cry once, so Swarovski all the way! There's a difference

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  #10  
Old 02-12-2017, 12:50 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by SloChicken View Post
your zero won't change, but the moa/mil dots will be out of calculation if not at full (usually) magnification.

If you are zeroing on the intersection of the two crosshairs, then that will always maintain zero, no matter the magnification.

If you don't understand that already. You really have no need whatsoever for FFP.
I agree.
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Old 02-12-2017, 4:31 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by stingray4540 View Post
I appreciate the suggestions to get a range finder and I expected as much, but elreally, with the 30-06, I don't need to know the distance very precise, what I really need to know is if I'm beyond 300yd.
It's not about price as much as I just hate all the gadgets. Even binoculars seem obnoxious to me.
As far FFP, I just can't wrap my head around the idea that my zero changes if I zoom in or out. That just seems to make things unnecessarily complicated. Also, it doesn't seem to be a problem of too thin a reticle at Low power as much as too thick at high power.
Binos can be heavy and clunky but are the single most important piece of hunting equipment I own.

Regardless of how you decide to determine range, if you are using a scope, you HAVE to point your rifle at every single thing you want to know the range of. Pretty quickly, you will be breaking Rule #2. And please, don't glass with your scope. That's what binos are for.

My previous post has other reasons why I dislike scope ranging reticles but this is the biggest one.
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Old 02-12-2017, 6:05 AM
Horrendo Revolver Horrendo Revolver is offline
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OP has been given some good advice. Seems like he doesn't want to heed it. It is a free country.

I'm fortunate to own land, have close family with land and have two friends I trust completely with land. That is where I hunt. There have been a couple of times I've been hunting and was glassed by a guest hunter with their rifle scope. It only happens once on the collective land I hunt because the guest hunter leaves the property immediately and never comes back. Most of us could get by without rangefinders where we hunt because we are so familiar with the land. Hunting the same land for 50 years lends itself to knowing distance. I still use a rangefinder.
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Old 02-12-2017, 9:14 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by steelheadmike View Post
Binos can be heavy and clunky but are the single most important piece of hunting equipment I own
And please, don't glass with your scope. That's what binos are for.

My previous post has other reasons why I dislike scope ranging reticles but this is the biggest one.
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Originally Posted by Horrendo Revolver View Post
OP has been given some good advice. Seems like he doesn't want to heed it. It is a free country

Wow, easy with the assumptions fellas. I never said that I don't own or plan to use binos, I only mentioned that I don't like the clunkiness of them as a qualifier for my desire to not buy a rangefinder and have one more gadget to deal with in the field.
Nor have I decided what advice I will or will not follow, as I am just now catching up with comments.
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Old 02-12-2017, 9:31 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by stingray4540 View Post
I appreciate the suggestions to get a range finder and I expected as much, but elreally, with the 30-06, I don't need to know the distance very precise, what I really need to know is if I'm beyond 300yd.
It's not about price as much as I just hate all the gadgets. Even binoculars seem obnoxious to me.
As far FFP, I just can't wrap my head around the idea that my zero changes if I zoom in or out. That just seems to make things unnecessarily complicated. Also, it doesn't seem to be a problem of too thin a reticle at Low power as much as too thick at high power.
I hope your not suggesting you glass for game by looking through your scope. That is not cool at all and is really unsafe.

If you are scouting for game anywhere outside of 100 yards, a spotting scope or binoculars are probably more important than the rifle scope. You need them for locating and positively identifying species and criteria such as antler branching and point count.

As for scopes, others above have given some good advice.
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Old 02-12-2017, 11:24 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by SloChicken View Post
It is 2nd focal plane but I find that if I am reaching out to distances where I am worried about counting out my drop with calculations and mildot instead of good old Kentucky windage (which is my my usual way), then I am probably at full magnification anyway, and then the mildots are actually on spec.
IF you are looking for FFP and have to keep it around $500 I would look right at SWFAs SS 3-9x,
Rock solid construction, mil dot reticle, and FFP.
Good point actually, I'll have to think about this. With a point blank range of 300yd roughly, I really only need want the BDC/mil/MOA for >300 yard shots and helping to range to see that if I'm beyond 300.

Quote:
Originally Posted by waveslayer View Post
There seems to be a lot of confusion and misconception...
First off, Nikon scopes just suck! They should stick to cameras! And BDC is even worse. It's only good unless you are using that exact load, Bullet weight, velocity etc... not going to work for you. You can shoot it and see what the BDC is for your rifle, but not worth it. The low light performance is terrible on Nikon. That's a big deal when hunting!
Thanks, this is good feedback. Regardless of all the other crap, the glass is most important in my mind, so if they are that far behind the curve, I'd rather look elsewhere.

Anyone else share these sentiments? Nikon that bad?


P.S. To all, yes I'm aware it is the hash marks that change on SFP. I was short on time and "zero" was what I came up with to describe what I was saying. I assumed most people would know what I was talking about.
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Old 02-12-2017, 11:27 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Jeepergeo View Post
I hope your not suggesting you glass for game by looking through your scope. That is not cool at all and is really unsafe.

If you are scouting for game anywhere outside of 100 yards, a spotting scope or binoculars are probably more important than the rifle scope. You need them for locating and positively identifying species and criteria such as antler branching and point count.

As for scopes, others above have given some good advice.
No, that's not what I said at all, and I even addressed this in the post directly above yours.
Geez people, settle down.
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Old 02-12-2017, 11:49 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by stingray4540 View Post
Good point actually, I'll have to think about this. With a point blank range of 300yd roughly, I really only need want the BDC/mil/MOA for >300 yard shots and helping to range to see that if I'm beyond 300
If you can do rangefinding calcs on a deer of unknown size in the brush over 300yds away and factor in a scope that is already set high, you have better match skills than me. And, the deer you hunt must be standing still.

Do you plan of using holdovers or dialing the corrections?
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Old 02-12-2017, 12:55 PM
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You're over complicating this man. It's called field ranging and it used to be fairly common back in the day. That's what the MOA reticle is for, field ranging then using for hold over if necessary.
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Old 02-12-2017, 2:04 PM
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Originally Posted by stingray4540 View Post
You're over complicating this man. It's called field ranging and it used to be fairly common back in the day. That's what the MOA reticle is for, field ranging then using for hold over if necessary.
I'm familiar with the method. For field ranging to have any degree of accuracy you need to know the size of your target. This is easy if you are dealing a 6' tall man or a 36" gong. It is not so easy when you are trying to judge size on an animal that varies in size, may be concealed, may be laying down, and is probably moving.

Ranging with a reticle is not impossible to do while hunting, but being able to quickly get an accurate distance using a RF seems much faster/simpler than trying to make MOA calcs in my head while that big old buck is heading for the brush.

Also, my original statement that using a riflescope as a rangefinder is an unsafe practice stands.
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Old 02-12-2017, 2:23 PM
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OP,

Everyone's eyes are different. I see better out of certain brands of scopes than others. It is important for you to look through some different scopes to see what looks good to you. Nikon makes some scopes with pretty good glass but the ProStaff is not one of them IMO. As an example I believe the Minox ZV-3 series blows away any ProStaff and places like Camera Land sell them for the same or less than ProStaffs. There are others like Vortex Diamondback and Burris Fullfield II. YMMV.
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Old 02-12-2017, 4:40 PM
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Personally have a Vortex Viper HS 2.5-10x44 on my 30-06.

Not to sound like a vortex fanboy... but I love it. It's lightweight, and the 30mm tube with the 44mm objective do great for me in low light conditions.

Price is right too and if you want a BDC reticle the vortex dead hold is a real easy to use one. (obviously you'll need to shoot your load with it and get your own dope still though).
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Old 02-12-2017, 5:15 PM
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i will second the Vortex Viper HS 2.5-10x44. you do not need or want a FFP. Field ranging with the redicle is just not as simple as it sounds. In practice it never works.
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Old 02-12-2017, 5:17 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by steelheadmike View Post
First: buy a rangefinder. They are faster and more reliable than your scope. The mil/moa method of estimating range works best if you have a known size target (36" paper or man-sized). Not so great for deer and other animals of different sizes. What if the deer is bedded down 250yds away and you need to range it? And, most importantly, you don't have to point your rifle at something (which you may not want to destroy) to range it.

As far as FFP reticles, I've found them to be less than ideal for big game hunting because more often than not, you will be hunting at lower magnification and it can be a challenge to pick up a minuscule FFP reticle at 3 or 4x.

Second, buy a good 3-9x40 lightweight scope like a VX-2 and go hunt.

You can get into a vx-2 scope and a decent rangefinder (like a red field) for around $500, maybe a little more depending on your bad and ring choices.
Id have to agree with this.
http://www.basspro.com/Nikon-Aculon-...ct/1308061704/
http://www.basspro.com/Leupold-VX2-R...uct/261888256/
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Old 02-15-2017, 11:31 AM
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Pick up a Sig Kilo 2000 on sale at Cabelas for about $350, smoking deal, it's really small and super lightweight. I think it's a perfect addition to most anyone's equipment. Thank me later!
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Old 02-16-2017, 1:45 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by steelheadmike View Post
First: buy a rangefinder. They are faster and more reliable than your scope. The mil/moa method of estimating range works best if you have a known size target (36" paper or man-sized). Not so great for deer and other animals of different sizes. What if the deer is bedded down 250yds away and you need to range it? And, most importantly, you don't have to point your rifle at something (which you may not want to destroy) to range it.

As far as FFP reticles, I've found them to be less than ideal for big game hunting because more often than not, you will be hunting at lower magnification and it can be a challenge to pick up a minuscule FFP reticle at 3 or 4x.

Second, buy a good 3-9x40 lightweight scope like a VX-2 and go hunt.

You can get into a vx-2 scope and a decent rangefinder (like a red field) for around $500, maybe a little more depending on your bad and ring choices.
Yep, this. Sounds like OP wants to do some "light long range shooting", and since your budget is $500, I suggest VX-2 3-9x40 with CDS.

CDS will let you dial correction and play that whole game at the range, but the dial is not obnoxious or large, so you can just zero at 100, then set it to 3 MOA and go hunt.

I had a viper PST 44mm objective scope. Felt like a monster compared to a gold ring 40mm. IMO, the 3-9x40 is the standard for hunting scopes. Big enough to get the job done, small enough to be light and out of the way. Doesn't keep me from shooting farther than 400 yards at the range, too.

Duplex or fine duplex is the reticle you want.

Last edited by Whiterabbit; 02-16-2017 at 1:48 AM..
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Old 02-16-2017, 9:28 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by waveslayer View Post
There seems to be a lot of confusion and misconception...
First off, Nikon scopes just suck! They should stick to cameras! And BDC is even worse. It's only good unless you are using that exact load, Bullet weight, velocity etc... not going to work for you. You can shoot it and see what the BDC is for your rifle, but not worth it. The low light performance is terrible on Nikon. That's a big deal when hunting!

Go FFP, your zero won't change with the magnification on a SFP, fyi. The hash marks change.. for example if my scope has hash marks at 1 MOA intervals, then a second focal plane scope means it's 1 MOA at (a scope being 3-15 power) 15 power, at 10 power that 1 hash Mark that used to be 1 MOA is now 4.3 MOA or so. That's the beauty of FFP. It's always the same no matter what power you are on.

For the price point you are stuck with... not many good options
Go Sig Tango4. It's FFP and near your price poiny.

Personally get a good scope. I buy once and cry once, so Swarovski all the way! There's a difference

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Um Nikon scopes are great, especially for the money. Not sure how much experience you have with them or which versions you have looked through but in low light conditions Nikons are awesome. The BDC is certainly useful regardless of load. You should practice your loads drops with any scope regardless of reticle. Your advice suggests you dont get out into the field much.

OP a simple 3-9x or 2-7x is all you need for hunting. Get something light weight and rugged. Zero your load at 200 yards and know your drops at different ranges.

My first choice is Leupold but Nikon makes a fine scope too. Vortex are pretty good but usually heavier.
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Old 02-16-2017, 9:59 PM
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Um Nikon scopes are great, especially for the money. Not sure how much experience you have with them or which versions you have looked through but in low light conditions Nikons are awesome. The BDC is certainly useful regardless of load. You should practice your loads drops with any scope regardless of reticle. Your advice suggests you dont get out into the field much.

OP a simple 3-9x or 2-7x is all you need for hunting. Get something light weight and rugged. Zero your load at 200 yards and know your drops at different ranges.

My first choice is Leupold but Nikon makes a fine scope too. Vortex are pretty good but usually heavier.
OP don't waste your money on Nikon scoped. Mongoose V8, having a father who was a photographer using Nikon cameras and lenses I am well aware and familiar with them. Yes, I bought and quickly dumped all my Nikon scopes. Even their high end gold model... they are terrible in low light conditions. The BDC is terrible . Especially that they are SFP. To even be accurate you have to be maxed out. Or know that 10 power is truly 10 power. Which you need to verify, because even if the scope says 10 power on the outside doesn't mean on the inside that it's adjusted to the real 10 power. Thus throwing your BDC off, at distance way off.

I am talking from real life experience on 2 major hunts. Low light sucks period!

Buy once cry once. Never skimp on glass. Vortex are okay, best warranty out there. Leupold is alright, depends on the model. For the money and knowing you get what you pay for, Nightforce line, SHV are a great price point. Or Swarovski. I run several different types of glass.

As for zeroing, depends on your round and what point blank range you want. Like V8 said, 200 is standard. Unless you are using a target gun then zero at a 100 and know your DOPE or use hold overs if your reticle has them. I have zeroed rifles at 300 yards because of my cartridge was a screamer and allowed it , just depends on the usage and what you're doing.

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Old 02-16-2017, 10:04 PM
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I didn't care for them (Nikon scopes).

The only thing that really impressed me with Nikon scopes is the reticle. If there is one particle of light in a pitch black space those things would light up like a white Christmas tree. Very impressed. Every other scope is black on black. Yet in harsh daylight, the reticle is a nice jet black for contrast.

I have nothing good to say about my experience with Nikons for any and every other factor.
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Old 02-17-2017, 12:09 AM
Horrendo Revolver Horrendo Revolver is offline
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I worked part time at one of the four Cabela's huge stores until 11-16. Since I mounted scopes at work and have my own optics mounting business I was able to look through all of the brands being talked about any time I wanted. I also took them outside in low light and very bright sunlight. Personally I own Meopta, Leupold, Zeiss, Bushnell, Burris and Clearidge Rimfire.

These are personal observations, nothing scientific about them.
Nikons work just fine but I do find their glass lacking in low light. Vortex is even worse in low light until you get to the Razor line. Excluding Razors, Vortex seemed to break more often than the other major brands. My observation about Nikon, Vortex and low light is shared by many people I know and/or read about.

Starting with the VX-2, VX-R and VX-3 Leupold is pretty good in low light but not as good as Zeiss, Meopta, and Swarovski. Nightforce is super tough and if I were going into battle is what I'd want. In the same price range I've looked through other brands with as good or even better glass. Leupold VX-6 compares to Euro glass, it is really good.
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Old 02-17-2017, 6:15 AM
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Um Nikon scopes are great, especially for the money. Not sure how much experience you have with them or which versions you have looked through but in low light conditions Nikons are awesome.
Funny you say this. I went to bass pro and had the poor guy pull out a dozen scopes. Of all of them, Nikon Monarch 3 was the brightst by far. I narrowed down to VX3i, monarch 3, and Viper. Viper was easily 3rd. This is the second time I've been let down by vortex especially when compared back to back with other brands. I don't know what all the hype is about.
I think I'll go vx3 cds though. I looked at a monarch out of the box and it was more on par with the Leupold. I think the floor model was just a freak. I do despise the idea of spending more money on one more thing I need to haul around, but I like the idea of not needing to use different parts of the reticle and be dead on farther out than I can even shoot.
Although, I'm tempted to go the BDC route just to spite all the "eww, you can't range find with your scope, like people did in the past. It's totally accurate for ranging people that might very in height by more than a foot, but if your deer is one inch thicker than normal, you won't be able to hit a barn!"

Maybe on the next rifle.
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Old 02-17-2017, 6:52 AM
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Funny you say this. I went to bass pro and had the poor guy pull out a dozen scopes. Of all of them, Nikon Monarch 3 was the brightst by far. I narrowed down to VX3i, monarch 3, and Viper. Viper was easily 3rd. This is the second time I've been let down by vortex especially when compared back to back with other brands. I don't know what all the hype is about.
I think I'll go vx3 cds though. I looked at a monarch out of the box and it was more on par with the Leupold. I think the floor model was just a freak. I do despise the idea of spending more money on one more thing I need to haul around, but I like the idea of not needing to use different parts of the reticle and be dead on farther out than I can even shoot.
Although, I'm tempted to go the BDC route just to spite all the "eww, you can't range find with your scope, like people did in the past. It's totally accurate for ranging people that might very in height by more than a foot, but if your deer is one inch thicker than normal, you won't be able to hit a barn!"

Maybe on the next rifle.
BDC was never developed for range finding or milling. It's a drop compensator. It's only effective at full magnification. Now do that at early dawn or dusk or a hazy hunting day... no go my man. Like I stated and others terrible low light and the BDC system is terrible.

You will have to go out and shoot your rifle at all the distances, spot your impacts on the BDC reticle at every power, meaning magnification. Good luck with that and enjoy the time, money and frustration of doing all that Shooting to get your DOPE with the BDC.

That's why FFP is superior. If I need to explain in more detail just let me know. Check out the new Sig line if money is an issue. PM and I will get it for you wholesale just to save you from Nikon, or Steiner for near wholesale etc..

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Old 02-17-2017, 7:41 AM
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Funny how hunters have been using 3-9x second focal plane scopes for almost 100 years and have taken an uncountable number of game. Yet you are saying anything other than a FFP Swarovski is a horrible scope.

Most hunting situations call for 3-4x and no need to change magnification so sfp or ffp is irrelevant. I have used Nikons and Leupolds and SWFA scopes in very dark conditons literally hundreds of times and they are plenty bright enough to shoot past LEGAL hunting hours.

The BDC can be used at any zoom with any load if you know your drops. I dont need it but id rather have the option than not. True 10x yadda yadda not needed for hunting. Most animals in California are shot inside of 100 yards.
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Old 02-17-2017, 11:44 AM
Horrendo Revolver Horrendo Revolver is offline
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Originally Posted by MongooseV8 View Post
Funny how hunters have been using 3-9x second focal plane scopes for almost 100 years and have taken an uncountable number of game. Yet you are saying anything other than a FFP Swarovski is a horrible scope.

Most hunting situations call for 3-4x and no need to change magnification so sfp or ffp is irrelevant. I have used Nikons and Leupolds and SWFA scopes in very dark conditons literally hundreds of times and they are plenty bright enough to shoot past LEGAL hunting hours.

The BDC can be used at any zoom with any load if you know your drops. I dont need it but id rather have the option than not. True 10x yadda yadda not needed for hunting. Most animals in California are shot inside of 100 yards.
I agree. I posted earlier about finding Nikon and Vortex lacking in low light. Compared to other scopes it is true but even Nikon will get you past legal shooting light fine. I do a lot of hunting at night which I should have clarified.

SFP has worked for me for close to 40 years. For my use I have no need for FFP. Though I have a couple of nicer scopes a VX-2 3-9x40 with duplex reticle would do for 99% of the hunting I do.
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Old 02-17-2017, 11:24 PM
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Just to set the record straight. I am not against SFP, I own many scopes that are. I just was clarifying for some on here who feel, I lack the knowledge or experience on Nikon scopes and the BDC reticle. So yes to everyone SFP has been great for 100 years, with your simple plex reticles. It hasn't been since this last decade that BDC was developed etc... so those comments are irrelevant. Long range hunting has taken off and now FFP is dominating the market, with most manufacturers now selling a FFP scope, except Swarovski... which is ironic no? Anyways, using max power on a scope at low light conditions is seldom accurate, you need all the light you can get...

But using a scope in a store with good lighting isn't a good "measure " for a scopes performance. For hunting 3-9 is fine. For me personally I use a bow or shoot at distance so I use a scope that I dial or use hold overs. Hence why I'm adamant about the importance of knowing your DOPE.

So OP, what type of hunting will you be doing?

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