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  #1  
Old 07-18-2013, 9:02 PM
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EL_NinO619 EL_NinO619 is offline
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Default Remington 11-48 "Update PICS"

This is my neighbors shotgun, just bought it from someone and he is new to firearms. He brought it over for me to look at and first thing I noticed that the brass friction ring "O ring" needs to be replaced. Then I noticed the entire barrel will twist left to right. It will turn enough to go out of line with the extractor. I can just tighten it up because it tightens past the extractor cut. Do I need to make a shim? Anyone familiar with a 11-48, I am not. Took a gander on the interwebs and came up with only converting to a "tactical" shotgun.

Would like to help him out, don't know if its safe or not, but wont be able to hit squat with the bead shifting left to right every shot. Thanks.
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Last edited by EL_NinO619; 07-19-2013 at 7:23 PM..
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Old 07-18-2013, 10:43 PM
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If you look at how the barrel on an 11-48 moves when it fires, it's no surprise that the barrel rotates when locked up.
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  #3  
Old 07-18-2013, 11:11 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ar15barrels View Post
If you look at how the barrel on an 11-48 moves when it fires, it's no surprise that the barrel rotates when locked up.
Are you saying this is normal? Or expected?
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Old 07-18-2013, 11:13 PM
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Don't think I was quite clear, the barrel twist from thread, not from slop on slide.
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Old 07-18-2013, 11:18 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by EL_NinO619 View Post
Don't think I was quite clear, the barrel twist from thread, not from slop on slide.
Post a picture of what you are talking about.
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Old 07-18-2013, 11:22 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ar15barrels View Post
Post a picture of what you are talking about.
Will tomorrow, Thanks.
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Old 07-19-2013, 7:23 PM
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When fully tight the extractor notch is off.




When it's aligned its lose.

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Old 07-19-2013, 8:20 PM
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Your barrel is over-indexed to it's extension. The 11-48 has been obsolete for many years and it's likely good, new parts are long gone.
There are a coupke ways to fix this.
You could tighten this one up by fabricating a shim for the shoulder and/or using adhesive to hold it in index. If there is room on the barrel shoulder it could be swaged to "grow" a little, and help tighten it also. The rib might prevent swaging.
I have a hardened roller/swage that is run in on the shoulder at 1 to 5 degrees in the lathe to move the edge a little. Does your barrel have a gas lug? If it does, it wont fit in the head stock and would need to be spun between centers.

Last edited by kendog4570; 07-19-2013 at 8:24 PM..
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Old 07-19-2013, 10:22 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by kendog4570 View Post
Your barrel is over-indexed to it's extension. The 11-48 has been obsolete for many years and it's likely good, new parts are long gone.
There are a coupke ways to fix this.
You could tighten this one up by fabricating a shim for the shoulder and/or using adhesive to hold it in index. If there is room on the barrel shoulder it could be swaged to "grow" a little, and help tighten it also. The rib might prevent swaging.
I have a hardened roller/swage that is run in on the shoulder at 1 to 5 degrees in the lathe to move the edge a little. Does your barrel have a gas lug? If it does, it wont fit in the head stock and would need to be spun between centers.
No Gas lug, I think. It's inertia driven. I snipped a shim for a AR bbl nut so it would fit, I think it was a .010 or .020" and it indexed properly. I think the shim would work but just a little hesitate on using a cut shim. Going to try and find a proper diameter shim (If anyone knows a site?) and loctite it. I think the poor guy was taken on this one . I will get it running, but sad that people sell newbies crap. Neighbor said he bought it from a LGS for $300
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se carga el diablo de la pistola...
.223, .25acp, 25-20win, 9mm, 38spl/.357, 10mm .308, 8mm M, 7mm Rem Mag, 45acp, .475 Wildey mag
On 2 Hornady LnL AP & Dillon Super 1050
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Old 07-20-2013, 12:44 PM
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McMaster has shims of all thicknesses and diameters.
You might have to turn the outside smaller to get the right outside diameter with the right inside diameter.

The issue with shimming a barrel for index like that is you are often extending the headspace.
Watch that as well...

A better option would be to clock the barrel deeper by 7/8+ of a turn, then rechamber to correct headspace.
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AR work: www.ar15barrels.com
Bolt actions: www.700barrels.com
Foreign Semi Autos: www.akbarrels.com
Barrel, sight and trigger work on most pistols and shotguns.
Most work performed while-you-wait, evening and saturday appointments available.

Last edited by ar15barrels; 07-20-2013 at 12:49 PM..
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  #11  
Old 07-20-2013, 7:34 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ar15barrels View Post
McMaster has shims of all thicknesses and diameters.
You might have to turn the outside smaller to get the right outside diameter with the right inside diameter.

The issue with shimming a barrel for index like that is you are often extending the headspace.
Watch that as well...

A better option would be to clock the barrel deeper by 7/8+ of a turn, then rechamber to correct headspace.
Unfortunately I don't have the skills nor the tools for that. Might try the shim method and grab a head space gauge. If that won't work I will refer him to you.

If the shim method works and head space is still in spec, do I have anything else to worry about. Last thing I want to to is return a gun I said I "fix" and it still dangerous. I am not getting paid for this, so there is always the option to opt out.
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se carga el diablo de la pistola...
.223, .25acp, 25-20win, 9mm, 38spl/.357, 10mm .308, 8mm M, 7mm Rem Mag, 45acp, .475 Wildey mag
On 2 Hornady LnL AP & Dillon Super 1050
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  #12  
Old 07-21-2013, 4:36 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by EL_NinO619 View Post
If the shim method works and head space is still in spec, do I have anything else to worry about...
Not likely. Shotguns are quite a bit more generous with headspace as compared to centerfire bottleneck cartridges, and they do not operate anywhere near the pressure. Combined headspace with a min shell and max chamber is in the neighborhood of .030". The thread pitch looks to be near 16 TPI, give or take. You'll be clocking it less than 1/16th of a turn? What is that? .004" or less?

Don't over think it. 11-48's are the predecessor to the discount house 1100, and are not hand fit H&H sidelocks. Set it up with a decent draw, clean the threads thoroughly, and stick it together with semi-permanent loctite. It won't come apart till you want it to. I would prefer a shim that is not split, and would make one for this, but the split one would work OK with the adhesive.

Last edited by kendog4570; 07-21-2013 at 4:45 AM..
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  #13  
Old 07-21-2013, 10:02 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by EL_NinO619 View Post
Might try the shim method and grab a head space gauge.
IIRC, the 11-48 uses the old style headspace gauge.
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  #14  
Old 07-21-2013, 10:11 PM
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Thanks guy, appreciate it.
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se carga el diablo de la pistola...
.223, .25acp, 25-20win, 9mm, 38spl/.357, 10mm .308, 8mm M, 7mm Rem Mag, 45acp, .475 Wildey mag
On 2 Hornady LnL AP & Dillon Super 1050
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