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Gunsmithing & How To Pro, Amateur & WECSOG and Tutorials, Guides & OLL Build Instructions |
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#1
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Park tank set up - How many tanks? Critique my plan
I getting ready to buy everything I need for a parking set up and am looking for feedback on my plan. The process would go like this:
1) Degrease parts well during gun building process 2) Build gun 3) Beadblast parts with glass media, blow off with air 4) Boil parts in a water / degreasing solution (TANK #1) 5) Rinse off with hose 6) Submerge parts in park tank (TANK #2) 7) Rinse off with hose 8) Dunk parts in an oil bath. This tank to be a cheaper & appropriately sized plastic tank, like this: http://www.amazon.com/Leaktite-Corp-...ref=pd_cp_hi_1 I plan on using Allegheny Arsenal's Home Park Kit: http://mg34.com/product/home-parkerizing-kit-manganese/ Tank 1 & 2 would be the 40" x 6" x 6" tanks from Stainless Steel Creations: http://www.stainlesssteelcreations.n...-products.html I'm considering their electric water heater element ready tanks. Here is a link to elements: http://www.plumbingsupply.com/elements.html So, lemme have it you gunbuilding experts. Is this a solid plan? Missing anything?
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"Let me guess... This isn't about the alcohol or tobacco?" Last edited by ColdDeadHands1; 02-26-2016 at 10:27 PM.. |
#2
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I see this working so long as everyone follows the rules
Highly unlikely.
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"I could never let you go, my darling cold and blue I wonder, are you dreaming still spread eagle, blood removed I weave the sucking trocar beneath your bruising skin" -R.I.P TREVOR STRNAD |
#4
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Glass media isn't ideal for properly etching the metal for park prep. Aluminum oxide is preferred option.
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"If it wears out, replace it. If it breaks, upgrade." -Cranky Air Force Vet. Kevin |
#5
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Are you looking for a professional set up or do you just want to spend money on a project?
If you are doing this for yourself and maybe to do one on one builds, One tank is a you need. Now if you are trying to set up a professional system then yes your system will work you just need to use grit like garnet or aluminum oxide not glass beads. Glass beads are for blueing not Parkerizing |
#7
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Seems like it would work, although when I built up several FALs years ago, I went way cheaper. I blasted in a wardrobe box with a respirator, and I used silica sand. It seemed to put a nice tooth on everything, but never affected markings, even very light ones. My heater was the grill out back.
For final degreasing, I used acetone, just immersed small stuff and wiped larger stuff. Have you parked before? I never got the hang of the post tank process, lots of stuff rusted up right away, I ended up re parking several mags. I think if I did it again, I would immediately spray with wd40 when it comes out of the park solution. I was planning on spray coating on top of the park because I couldn't get it dark enough, so I wanted to avoid oil, it didn't work out too well. My problem, it turned out, was that it took 3 FALs to get the season just right, the third one turned out pro quality. Save your solution. It seems to get better.
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#8
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What we do is once the parts come out of the park solution, it gets submerged in an overflowing water tank and wiped down while submerged. Its comes out then immediately gets drenched in WD40, blew clean then covered in oil (break-free usually). Or we'd just use Break-free after the water if we had run out of WD40.
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"If it wears out, replace it. If it breaks, upgrade." -Cranky Air Force Vet. Kevin |
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