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Centerfire Rifles - Manually Operated Lever action, bolt action or other non gas operated centerfire rifles.

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  #2841  
Old 08-14-2017, 4:44 PM
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Originally Posted by tamalpias View Post
I have a question for you, I see some people use a leveler to make sure their scope is on straight but how do you know if the leveler was even on straight to the scope? How do you know the scope is perfectly perpendicular when you rotate that scope with leveler on?
Use a flat feature on the scope and reference it to a flat feature on the rifle.
Scope bases usually have a flat top.
Most scopes have a flat under the scope 180 degrees from the elevation turret.
Lacking that, use the top of the elevation turret.
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  #2842  
Old 08-14-2017, 4:50 PM
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Originally Posted by tamalpias View Post
I have a question for you, I see some people use a leveler to make sure their scope is on straight but how do you know if the leveler was even on straight to the scope? How do you know the scope is perfectly perpendicular when you rotate that scope with leveler on?
Old trick... use a deck of cards between the rail and the scope.
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  #2843  
Old 08-14-2017, 5:45 PM
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Originally Posted by tamalpias View Post
I have a question for you, I see some people use a leveler to make sure their scope is on straight but how do you know if the leveler was even on straight to the scope? How do you know the scope is perfectly perpendicular when you rotate that scope with leveler on?
Rifle goes in a vise, rifle gets leveled on the scope base. Scope goes on and is leveled using a Arisaka Defense scope leveling tool. Bubble level goes on scope and is checked against the level on the scope rail.
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  #2844  
Old 08-14-2017, 5:48 PM
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Hey guys. Check out the Ruger Precision Rifle Facebook group. 11,000 members. I do giveaways too. Running one now.

https://m.facebook.com/groups/479364508893905
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  #2845  
Old 08-14-2017, 6:53 PM
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Rifle goes in a vise, rifle gets leveled on the scope base. Scope goes on and is leveled using a Arisaka Defense scope leveling tool. Bubble level goes on scope and is checked against the level on the scope rail.
i am just curious as to how you do it. My method is to slide a hex wrench that is closest fit between flat bottom of scope and top of rail. If there is a little bit of a gap twist the hex key until it touches evenly on both scope and rail and shine a flashlight to see if there is a gap where light can pass through. If there is no gap then i know it is set.

but i like the deck of cards idea too
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  #2846  
Old 08-14-2017, 7:04 PM
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Originally Posted by tamalpias View Post
i am just curious as to how you do it. My method is to slide a hex wrench that is closest fit between flat bottom of scope and top of rail. If there is a little bit of a gap twist the hex key until it touches evenly on both scope and rail and shine a flashlight to see if there is a gap where light can pass through. If there is no gap then i know it is set.

but i like the deck of cards idea too
Feeler gauges used for car cam shaft/valve clearance. Best method, IMO.
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  #2847  
Old 08-14-2017, 7:24 PM
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Feeler gauges used for car cam shaft/valve clearance. Best method, IMO.
You can use a smaller size parallel too but honestly, the Arisaka Defense leveling tool is very inexpensive and works much better.
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  #2848  
Old 08-17-2017, 8:52 AM
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I'm looking for my first bolt action rifle and want it in .308, is the RPR a solid choice for a first time bolt action buyer?
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  #2849  
Old 08-17-2017, 10:23 AM
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IMO no, but I like wood and pedigree. RPR has neither.

On the other hand, if you don;t care about either wood or pedigree, why not? A rifle is a rifle in that case, right?
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  #2850  
Old 08-17-2017, 10:27 AM
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I was reading an article about leveling and they found the human eye can easily detect square/vertical/horizontal within a half degree. Most can tell within a quarter degree or less.

The article pointed out all the problems with mechanical levelers. Your vise may not be level. Your stock/barrel interface might not be level. Your rail may not be level, your scope base or caps may not be level. Your level may not be level.

I've also mounted scopes with tolerance stacking problems with all of the above. The errors compound themselves to become very obvious errors. Everything checked out perfectly, yet when you got behind the scope it was VERY obvious the reticle was canted against the gun.

My whole life I've basically used the eye test as my final check no matter what the technique I've used and it's saved my butt more than once.

I've never found a foolproof method that was better than just my eye.

So after reading the article, I decided on my RPR to try the eye test only. I mounted it all up and took it to a 4 day long range class and it performed flawlessly out to 1,200 yards (we didn't shoot further than that).

Interestingly, my OCD friend who jumped through all sorts of hoops to level his scope using a bunch of fancy equipment and techniques was struggling the first couple days of the class. So in the hotel room that night, I did the eye test and his reticle was off. So we corrected it simply using the eye test and he shot lights out the last 2 days of the class.
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Last edited by k1dude; 08-17-2017 at 5:14 PM..
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  #2851  
Old 08-17-2017, 10:29 AM
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I think the level may help me to be consistent if anything else.
It's certainly easy to glance at briefly.
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  #2852  
Old 08-17-2017, 10:33 AM
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If you need a way to measure scope cant, tall target test. Pretty straight forward.

Regardless if you install via shims, eyeball, black magic, plumbbob, paid gunsmith, whatever.
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  #2853  
Old 08-17-2017, 6:08 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Laurence927 View Post
I'm looking for my first bolt action rifle and want it in .308, is the RPR a solid choice for a first time bolt action buyer?
What's your intended use? Hunting? Then no. It's not the best for hunting due to its weight. Getting into Precision long range shooting? Then yes, it's a very capable rifle out of the box and well worth the asking price. And I'd recommend the 6.5 Creedmoor. It owns the 308 as far as ballistics are concerned.
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