![]() |
![]() |
![]() |
![]() |
![]() |
![]() |
![]() |
![]() |
![]() |
|
Rimfire Firearms .22, .17 and other Rimfire Handguns and Rifles |
![]() |
|
Thread Tools | Display Modes |
#1
|
||||
|
||||
![]()
I have a Colt .22 LR conversion with the 2 piece barrel with lead stuck between the two pieces. What's the best way to remove the lead?
|
#4
|
||||
|
||||
![]()
For leaded up bores I use a used bore brush with several strands of dry medium grade bronze wool wrapped around, a dozen or so strokes and the lead is stripped out.
__________________
![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() (\__/) (='.'=) (")_(") |
#5
|
||||
|
||||
![]()
If the OP is talking about an AR-15 type rifle, there are conversion kits that slip into a 223/5.56 chamber and let you shoot 22LR ammo like this one:
![]() As you can see, the chamber insert becomes part of the barrel while the actual barrel with the rifling is the other part.
__________________
Randall Rausch AR work: www.ar15barrels.com Bolt actions: www.700barrels.com Foreign Semi Autos: www.akbarrels.com Barrel, sight and trigger work on most pistols and shotguns. Most work performed while-you-wait, evening and saturday appointments available. |
#6
|
||||
|
||||
![]()
I am talking about a Colt .22 LR conversion kit for a 1911 pistol. It is called Colt's .22 Cal. Conversion Unit with Floating Chamber and Colt's Accro Rear Sight. It differs, I think, from the Colt Ace .22 in that there is a short bit which goes into the rear of the barrel and moves a bit when the gun is fired to give an impression of recoil similar to that of a .45 Cal. cartridge being fired. The lead builds up between the parts of the barrel preventing that moveloemt. The lead is inside the main barrel and around the outside of the Floating Chamber where it mates with the inside of the Barrel.
I wish I could post a photo but I don't use Photbucket or any of those and I don't think I can post a photo with out one of those services. If there is a way that I can post a photo directly from my desktop I would love to know how! |
#7
|
||||
|
||||
![]() Quote:
No I don't cast lead. I thought about it a have a box of maybe 40 pounds or so. I'm not just sure what I am going to do with that. |
#8
|
||||
|
||||
![]() Quote:
__________________
![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() (\__/) (='.'=) (")_(") |
#9
|
||||
|
||||
![]() |
#10
|
||||
|
||||
![]() Quote:
Fizzy puff of smoke later all of the lead and crud just melts and runs away like water. Let it cool, oil it up and away you go. Back in the day you'd have about $40 worth of lead, now a used Porsche Boxster maybe.
__________________
Why don't you knock it off with them negative waves? |
#11
|
||||
|
||||
![]() Quote:
No more lead bullets through that unit for me. |
#12
|
|||
|
|||
![]()
Some brands of bullets, or excessive shooting without cleaning, or the failure to keep the floating chamber well lubed can create a condition where the floating chamber portion gets "welded" to the barrel.
The use of a solvent specifically made for lead removal and letting it soak for a couple of days generally will free up the parts, and the lead can be removed by scrubbing with a bronze brush and/or bronze wool. The lead in the bore can also be removed with the same solvent and a regular bore brush. The .22-.45 Conversion kits can be finicky but they are cool. Most people report good results with Remington Golden Bullets, which are plated. Also CCI MiniMags. They work best with high velocity loadings. If you shoot crappy bulk packaged lead bullet .22's, try to go several hundred rounds without cleaning and fail to put a drop of oil on the floating chamber every 50 rounds, you will experience a lot of grief. |
#13
|
||||
|
||||
![]() Quote:
Yea, that would be a great way to go for all who own those conversions! I wound up using my neighbors Map gas setup to get the lead out. It discolored the barrel but I don't think it hurt it. Is that lead worth something? I haven't had it all that long; but time flies. Maybe 20 years ... Its not that big a box, maybe not 40 pounds but the box is heavy as lead, as they say. |
#14
|
||||
|
||||
![]()
Typically $1 a pound for clean scrap lead.
__________________
Randall Rausch AR work: www.ar15barrels.com Bolt actions: www.700barrels.com Foreign Semi Autos: www.akbarrels.com Barrel, sight and trigger work on most pistols and shotguns. Most work performed while-you-wait, evening and saturday appointments available. |
#15
|
||||
|
||||
![]()
I have a .22 Colt Ace Conversion kit and I have had the same problem, with lead accumulating between the barrel and chamber.
Put the barrel in a vice, and with a plastic or rubber mallet, tap on the chamber, so that it turns about 90 degrees so that the chamber can be removed. I then used a dental pick to remove the lead from both parts. I was surprised at how much lead accumulated between the chamber and barrel. I now remove the chamber from the barrel and clean it frequently.
__________________
![]() |
#16
|
||||
|
||||
![]() Quote:
![]() Thanks You, learn something today. |
#17
|
|||
|
|||
![]()
I use dental picks to scrap out the lead on mine. It is softer than the steel and does come out. Don't scrap too hard you do not want to scratch the barrel and the floating chamber. You will get the lead out with some patience. My Remington 550-1 also has a floating chamber and I clean it the same way.
|
![]() |
Thread Tools | |
Display Modes | |
|
|
![]() |
![]() |
![]() |