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  #81  
Old 08-18-2010, 7:29 PM
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Originally Posted by Parag View Post
'Course you realize that you no longer have evil black rifles. They're not-quite-as-evil mostly-black rifles now. Personally, I'm going to use *black* paint on mine.


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  #82  
Old 08-18-2010, 7:42 PM
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I used the acrylic method. Worked great.



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  #83  
Old 12-28-2010, 7:22 PM
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I got motivated and color-filled my first lower. I used a medium gray (should have gone a little darker, but tired of it at the moment). I used acrylic paint, applied it liberally over the marking I wanted filled, and almost immediately wiped off the excess with a paper towel with a little Rem-Oil. It worked extremely well for the "Safe" and "Fire", but I'm not satisfied with the roll mark.
The roll mark has VERY shallow engravings and I'm pretty sure this is causing me the problems. I'll keep it as is for the time being, but you can tell, especially with the "S" in "Sun". Hmmmm...any suggestions?

*I'm too lazy to edit the serial number and too lazy to get up and put a piece of tape over it so I just used my finger...

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  #84  
Old 12-28-2010, 7:37 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Poppy83 View Post
I got motivated and color-filled my first lower. I used a medium gray (should have gone a little darker, but tired of it at the moment). I used acrylic paint, applied it liberally over the marking I wanted filled, and almost immediately wiped off the excess with a paper towel with a little Rem-Oil. It worked extremely well for the "Safe" and "Fire", but I'm not satisfied with the roll mark.
The roll mark has VERY shallow engravings and I'm pretty sure this is causing me the problems. I'll keep it as is for the time being, but you can tell, especially with the "S" in "Sun". Hmmmm...any suggestions?

*I'm too lazy to edit the serial number and too lazy to get up and put a piece of tape over it so I just used my finger...

Let it dry completely, then give it a once over.
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  #85  
Old 12-28-2010, 9:32 PM
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Originally Posted by ANDREWMENDEZ View Post
Let it dry completely, then give it a once over.
I did and went back over the rollmark. It is much crisper, but it is a pain to get out the paint that is in the letters. Patience, I guess. I am happy with it overall, though. Low key, but still not perfect...BAH.
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  #86  
Old 12-29-2010, 1:28 AM
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I did and went back over the rollmark. It is much crisper, but it is a pain to get out the paint that is in the letters. Patience, I guess. I am happy with it overall, though. Low key, but still not perfect...BAH.
I used a thumb tac to clear out the old paint when I redid the second one. Kinda a pain, but it looks good.
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  #87  
Old 01-10-2011, 7:37 AM
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Really happy with the way mine came out. Roomate did his as well. Thank you SolidSanke
Attached Images
File Type: jpg reciever 003.jpg (92.0 KB, 344 views)
File Type: jpg reciever 005.jpg (80.0 KB, 269 views)

Last edited by Jonesy72; 01-12-2011 at 3:32 PM..
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  #88  
Old 02-16-2011, 7:02 AM
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Jonesy72, what method did you use? Thats sweet!
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  #89  
Old 02-17-2011, 11:13 AM
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Nothing more than crayola crayon and rem oil to clean it up.


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  #90  
Old 02-25-2011, 5:57 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Ibgreezy View Post
Jonesy72, what method did you use? Thats sweet!
I'm jonesy's roomate. We used solidsnake87's 3rd option. Went to Michael's and picked up a paint set and some brushes.

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Method 3.) Acrylic Paint with Water
This is the fastest, simplest, and best method of painting ANYTHING of any shape or size. Its more permanent than crayon but lasts well and is a really pretty finish. Touching up is only required if it comes in contact with clp, ect.. Just place whatever color of paint u want in a bottle cap mix a small amount of water with the paint. Just a tiny bit of water is needed to dissolve the paint. Just take a brush and just barely touch whatever shape you hope to fill. The cohesive forces of the water will suck your paint right into the shape with near perfection. Take your girlfriend's hair drier and evaporate the water from the paint. Repeat the process only if the paint is not thick enough to your standards. Just take a finger and gently wipe off any excess paint. I used this on my stag logo and Magpul PRS stock.
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  #91  
Old 03-09-2011, 8:36 PM
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I guess i'm pretty much a Form follows Function guy, being I don't see the point for: 1. Pretty paint in the stamping of guns, and 2. White wall tires on cars, but hey that's just me. I did paint in the numbers on my Wilson Combat mags though, so I can tell which one is which, but that is Form following Function.

Last edited by 'ol shooter; 03-09-2011 at 8:39 PM.. Reason: Additional text entry
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  #92  
Old 04-16-2011, 10:32 PM
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Default just did mine

photos attached; used acrylic paint. thanks, OP and subsequent, for the ideas and advice to make my first build look nicer.

a few things i found out:

* the acrylic is easier to use if it's applied in a watery mode. you wind up using less paint overall (just let it run into the grooves), and the surrounding area winds up with less paint caked on once it dries.

* accordingly, use as small a brush as you can manage for getting the paint into those grooves. again, less initial mess means less to clean up.

* if the surfaces around the engraving have been recently treated with solvent/cleaner/oil/CLP/whatever (i used hoppe's), the sheen left behind seems to make the paint much easier to wipe off.

* water didn't seem to do the job of dissolving the paint on the surface, but a patch dampened with solvent did the trick. don't soak the patch, or the solvent will run into the engraving -- you'll wind up wiping them clean and starting over.



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File Type: jpg IMG_2757Blur.jpg (91.3 KB, 1200 views)
File Type: jpg IMG_2759.jpg (91.3 KB, 1201 views)
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  #93  
Old 04-20-2011, 6:12 PM
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Thanks for this great sticky! I used the acrylic method after raiding my sisters art supplies. I just used a 2:1 paint to water mixture and applied using a bamboo skewer..the kind for kabobs. The needle point allowed me to minimize the mess. I allowed the paint to dry completely even if I applied too much and just rubbed the excess off after dry with a paper towel since acrylic likes to come off in large flakes after drying as opposed to wiping when wet. Any excess that wouldn't come off was easily removed with a q tip and some nail polish remover.
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  #94  
Old 07-04-2011, 3:49 PM
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Brownells Lacquer Stix...simply the best for the job. "Blast of Color"

Attachment 105123

Last edited by monorailboy; 11-11-2011 at 6:13 AM..
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  #95  
Old 07-25-2011, 6:56 AM
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SOLIDSNAKE i'm diggin your stag, also really diggin the JD machine logo in white. I used the crayon method on one of my glocks with good results but my Beretta 96 doesn't like it at all. Ill have to give the paint/h20 method a try. Thanks for the info.
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  #96  
Old 08-29-2011, 2:27 AM
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Those are neat guys...But

What about krylon? lol
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  #97  
Old 09-18-2011, 3:44 AM
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Great info... Going to hook up the Saiga with some color
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  #98  
Old 09-27-2011, 1:12 PM
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what is clp
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  #99  
Old 10-27-2011, 7:49 PM
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So I decided to give this a try and didn't like it. I tried a crayola crayon first then tried the lacquer pens from Brownells.

Now I have a white haze on my lower that will not go away. I tried removing it by scrubbing with a nylon brush and Hoppes, then CLP, then Remoil and nothing will get rid of the slight white haze.

I wish I never tried this...

Any ideas how to get it off?

BTW, it's very faint but noticeable. Here is a pic...



You can see it over the Stag logo and around the selector marks, etc...
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  #100  
Old 11-04-2011, 4:28 PM
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Bueller.......bueller.......
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  #101  
Old 11-04-2011, 4:52 PM
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Acetone followed by oil.
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  #102  
Old 11-05-2011, 8:36 AM
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Acetone hu...Thanks. I'll give it a try. Won't harm the finish hu???
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  #103  
Old 11-05-2011, 8:45 AM
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I removed the excess crayon with rem oil and a little elbow grease, cleaned up real easy. And it works easier if the lower if seperated from the upper too.
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  #104  
Old 12-02-2011, 9:38 PM
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I used craolla on my glock and its great. On my 700 not so good. Small writing it works bigger gaps I will try somethingg else
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  #105  
Old 01-02-2012, 8:09 PM
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  #106  
Old 01-13-2012, 5:02 PM
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Did mine using testors paint. Top pic is from about a year and a half ago when I first did it, second pic was from tonight. White paint could use some touch up maybe, but overall, holding up great!


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  #107  
Old 01-18-2012, 12:42 PM
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Well I'll be damned. I've been looking high and low for calguns lowers with it painted just like that. I have my lower ordered and had planned to paint mine just like this. Looks good!
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  #108  
Old 02-15-2012, 3:12 AM
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3 pages of discussion and advice on this topic and not one single video showing the process?
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  #109  
Old 02-16-2012, 9:56 PM
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Did you ever get around to it Sandeggo?

Erik, we've been saving the honor for you, can't wait to see your masterpiece and more importantly the video you come up with documenting the process
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  #110  
Old 02-24-2012, 5:23 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Ezekiel2000 View Post
Did you ever get around to it Sandeggo?

Erik, we've been saving the honor for you, can't wait to see your masterpiece and more importantly the video you come up with documenting the process
Just finished it a couple days ago. Painted the receivers fde with dura coat, then painted the roll marks with testors model paint from michaels. Used the plastic toothpicks that have dental floss on one end. Cleaned the excess off with nail polish remover and patches. One thing to note, I first tried to wipe the excess off rubbing hard, if you rub real lightly it comes off cleaner and doesn't spread. The red color was the worst at spreading. So I took a mechanical pencil with a white eraser and buffed the red smears off. Not the best pics but you get the idea. It was my first time painting a gun and roll marks.


Here's the whole rifle

Last edited by sandeggo; 02-24-2012 at 5:37 AM..
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  #111  
Old 03-30-2012, 5:17 PM
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I used a Sharpie Poster paint pen on my Remington R-25 which is Mossy Oak which makes the roll marks almost unreadable. Not as bold as some but I think that is a function of the basecoat-there is a lot going on.
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  #112  
Old 06-05-2012, 2:30 PM
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looks great ...thx for the info!!! I will give it a go!
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  #113  
Old 06-05-2012, 4:07 PM
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Crayons win.




Thanks for the tutorial. i had heard of this before, but the pictures made me take the plunge. Crayons, a blow dryer, and a microfiber towel!

Last edited by AK all day; 06-05-2012 at 4:14 PM..
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  #114  
Old 07-28-2012, 3:34 PM
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  #115  
Old 08-13-2012, 12:39 PM
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or have Blast of Color in Sacramento do it !!! Incredible work !!!

Crayon looks good until you go to clean the rifle. Blast of Color uses professional products that last !!
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  #116  
Old 08-13-2012, 1:24 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Yerman View Post
So I decided to give this a try and didn't like it...
Any ideas how to get it off?
99% rubbing alcohol takes thick gloss paint off of walls without wishing to, try that if the other suggestions don't work...
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  #117  
Old 09-09-2012, 4:43 PM
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Take it to a professional
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  #118  
Old 09-09-2012, 4:55 PM
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Anyone know of a professional in southern california?
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  #119  
Old 09-09-2012, 5:33 PM
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These look great. Perhaps I'll give it a whirl.
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  #120  
Old 09-10-2012, 8:41 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by monorailboy View Post
Take it to a professional
Mine (paint, not crayon) look great years later. Sure, the very minimal cost I spent on the testors paint opposed to what a "professional" would have cost was nice, but the other good part is I know it was done by myself and done right.

The only 2 reasons I can understand for someone to farm this out is if they have shaky hands or simply would rather not spend their own time doing it. It's really not too difficult.
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