UNIVERSAL 80% Arms Easy Jig™. No drill press required to finish your 80% lower!

[gogohopper]

Another plus one on this company.
I messed up my order.
They emailed me.
I called them.
It's all good......

If everything was this easy.....

Fyi. The YouTube instructional vid is great. You can bump the playback speed up to 1.25 times or greater to watch it faster. : /

[Junkie]

I didn't pay enough attention, put the router plate on backwards after removing to clean out chips, and managed to machine through to the mag release button cavity. Oops. I decided to try finishing the lower anyway and seeing if I could make it functional, and proceeded to snap the end mill that I was using. Of course, most of my tools aren't with me right now and I don't have the right size wrench with me to swap to the other end mill that I have.



The top plate is almost symmetrical so I didn't realize that it wasn't, hence the angle and screwing up the lower. Would be nice if it was symmetrical.

[80% Arms]

If that's an 80% Arms lower you were milling, we can reduce the pain of making a mistake:

"Lower Replacement Program: In the remote chance you make a mistake while using an 80% Arms Jig that damages your 80% Arms lower, we will replace your lower at a 50% discount off of the list price."

[Junkie]

Do you know if the Polymer80 lowers work?

[nickstone]

Originally Posted by Junkie

Do you know if the Polymer80 lowers work?

Check out this chart

If it is the AR15 version, then yes. If the .308 warrhogg, then no.

[Junkie]

Thanks. I found this one: http://www.calguns.net/calgunforum/s...&postcount=476 but it doesn't list it.

[80% Arms]

JAE uses this technique and has picture perfect trigger slots every time. Here is a post from JAE with a few photos. Most people don't have a problem drilling, but it's true that if you are not drilling perpendicular or you let the bit walk you can end up with the hole outside of the margin for the trigger hole. This is more prone to happen with a hand drill than a drill press. We've been impressed with the consistency of JAE's milling method without drilling to complete the trigger slot that we thought it merited mention here for those who want to try his method.

http://www.calguns.net/calgunforum/s...48&postcount=5

Originally Posted by afelipe

Another tip. For the trigger hole, if you do not have a drill press which I do not. I did not use the instructions of drilling a pilot hole first as on one of mine it was hard to get it center. Rather I used the router and just started routing the hole with extremely shallow depths and worked my way through until the hole went through. Makes it super clean. Took me about 2 1/2 hours from start to finish on this one. But I like to take my time.

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[80% Arms]

Yes, Polymer80 is fine. The AR-15 Easy Jig is universal. The AR-10 jig is not if you are referring to that platform.

Originally Posted by Junkie

Do you know if the Polymer80 lowers work?

[joeeeeeker]

Could I use a milling vise(x-y vise) with my drill press if I dont have a router handy?

[80% Arms]

Originally Posted by joeeeeeker

Could I use a milling vise(x-y vise) with my drill press if I dont have a router handy?

Yes, you could. But if you don't plan on buying a router, you might as well use our standard jig and save about $50.

http://www.80percentarms.com/collect...s/80-ar-15-jig

[Modo]

Anyone have a second hand universal drill their willing to sell or trade?? Pm me please.


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[AmericanByGod]

Calguns sent me a reply saying Moto replied to my question regarding suggestions on how to re-finish an anodized 80 %er that had part of it machined(thus removing the anodizing). But I don't think Moto's post was meant for me.

[Modo]

No. I'm looking for a second hand 80% Arms universal jig.


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[80% Arms]

Originally Posted by Modo

No. I'm looking for a second hand 80% Arms universal jig.


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We manufacture two types of universal jigs. There is the universal AR-15 drill press jig and the universal AR-15 Easy Jig. You may get better results in the marketplace forum being specific as to which jig you need.

[3xX]

Any sales for new years? Specifically for the ar10 easyjig and ar10 fde 80% lower?

[Tripper]

went to Home Depot today
would like your thoughts on
Ryobi R163GK ($59.97)
Ryobi RE180PL1 ($99.00)
Makita didnt get the model ($99.00)

oh additionally, will the easy jig work ok on Quentin Defense
and how about EP-Armory Polymers and Genesis CNC Polymers?

i may try the HF price match idea too and just grab the Ridgid
oh, do they have the correct end mill bits for the routers at Home Depot?

[80% Arms]

Originally Posted by Tripper

went to Home Depot today
would like your thoughts on
Ryobi R163GK ($59.97)
Ryobi RE180PL1 ($99.00)
Makita didnt get the model ($99.00)

oh additionally, will the easy jig work ok on Quentin Defense
and how about EP-Armory Polymers and Genesis CNC Polymers?

i may try the HF price match idea too and just grab the Ridgid
oh, do they have the correct end mill bits for the routers at Home Depot?

I believe both of those Ryobi units are larger routers. We much prefer the smaller laminate routers. The Makita Model # RT0701C at HD for $99 is similar to the units we recommend. However, we have not tested it nor have I seen any posts about it. I'd stick to one of the recommended units. Our shop favorite is the Home Depot Ridgid router. This thread has the best info on routers:

http://www.calguns.net/calgunforum/s....php?t=1028748

You are good to go with the Easy Jig with Quentin Defense and the polymer lowers. All polymer lowers tested work fine. I believe the Genesis poly lower is brand new to the market. We have not seen a Genesis lower to know for sure. It should be fine but I can't say with 100% certainty at this time.

Our end mill is a custom made, 3 flute, solid carbide, 4 inch long, 1/4 inch diameter, with short 0.75" flutes. They are not available in stores. They have a very short flute so you don't need to worry about cutting into your jig on the first passed. If you buy an end mill from a store make sure it has no more than 3 flutes or you will have problems milling aluminum with it. Also, you will need to be very careful not to cut into your jig as the flutes will not be recessed below the template on the early passes.

http://www.80percentarms.com/collect...l-for-easy-jig

[Tripper]

Wonderful
Thank you very much for your reply
I'll probably grab the ridgid soon then

[Jeepers]

I used a cheap ryobi I full sized router on a few lowers now .... they work fine

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[radicalray]

+ on Ridgid who knew HD was in to 80%

[mr2030]

+Ridgid Router

Just need a small brush and a vacuum attachment to get in there and clean out the pocket.



I have seen some of the photos that the rear lug area and front pocket are joined do I need to remove this material also?

[80% Arms]

@Tripper - As Jeepers said, the full size will work, and some people actually prefer them. However, most like the smaller units better and with the smaller units the router base will not hit the buffer tube. With the full size router you need to use the extension plate to clear the buffer tube. For those who already have a full size router, give it a shot. However, if you are buying router mainly for finishing lowers, the smaller units are preferred by most.

@Mr2030 - Looks great! No need to connect to the rear lug cutout.

[Tripper]

I 'think' most were previously connected because the rear lug was not there, and it was easier to just keep going on through the rather than another pocket of 4 edges, connecting made 1 long pocket with 4 edges as opposed to 2 smaller pockets of 8 edges total
Unless of course you need the full auto shelf

[Tripper]

i completed 2 now, and EPArmory Polymer and a TM Aluminum
keep in mind, i've never owned a drill press or a router

the EP Armory, drilling each hole with a drill press took literally seconds, maybe 10 minutes total, most of the time spent lining things up
The TM aluminum, i took maybe 30 minutes drilling the holes, i did use cutting fluid on the EZ Jig provided bit, put some into a cup, then dipped a toothbrush in the cup and brushed it onto the bit

now the routing; using the ridgid 24012 router
with the polymer, i took maybe 3 hours in all I suppose, including the above mentioned drill time. not sure what speed its at, whatever it was set at when it came out the box, on the EZ Jig Gauge, I did each cut in about 1/3 hashmarks, taking my time, seeing what feels best. turned out pretty good

with the TM Aluminum, thats a diff story, i had thought the entire time doing the polymer that a light would be nice, so, was looking for a light to shine down in there to see what i'm doing, while i was looking, had the thought that i would be spending money on the light, so, went back to home depot and got the next version up on the router (not sure the model) that had built in dual LEDs, and has the double handles, a bit bulkier, but had the lights i wanted, so, on to routing, it took i guess about 4 hours i guess, routing was at less than 1/3 hash mark increments. in the final cut, although i was continuiously tightening the bit, the bit slipped just a bit, and cut some of it a bit farther, i noticed when i was going over the surface and suddenly had resistance where i knew i had finished, anyway, all not lost, i tightened it up and evened it out. now with the larger router, the depth gauge doesnt sit flat on the base of the router, so thats a con, i cant say how it did in comparison to the other router since i didnt use the other one on the aluminum. next, i'm doing the trigger hole, got it lined up, and started it, and same thing happened, the bit slipped, so it took an uneven slip, and somehow jumped weird, not sure how it did it but the trigger hole is actually crooked.

a couple lessons learned i suppose, not sure i can check the bit being tightened any more often than i did, so not sure how to resolve that part.

oh, somehow when drilling the safety selector hole, my bit kept binding on it, so had to finesse it a bit.

hopefully my experience helps someone

[80% Arms]

It sounds like maybe you have a defective router. The bit should not slip or loosen up like that. The Ridgid 24012 router is our favorite. We'd recommend sticking with the 24012. With a little practice there is not much need to look in the pocket when you are milling. Make sure you insert to end mill far enough into the collet. If it is not in far enough that can cause it to loosen up while milling.

[Tripper]

Good points, thanks
After using it, I agree, light was useless. I still have both routers was planning on returning whichever I don't like, it appears that decision is made now

[zuch95701]

I completed my first lower with your guys' jig. I have to say what a well made and easy to use product. There is defiantly a little bit of a learning curve getting a rhythm down with the routing. I did fine that using the adjustment knob on the rigid router and dropping in 5-6 32ns at a time helped the bit cut really easy. I was working in 7075 an ended up with a beautiful lower. I also want to thank who ever came up with the idea of using the router to plunge into the base for the trigger pocket.

Edit: Thanks JAE for the above suggestion. Also I wanted to give a little advice to people who are making these for the first time. I found that lighting was a little tricky. best solution i found was to tape a pen light or small led into the buffer tube threads. Works awesome to light up your working area.

[80% Arms]

Originally Posted by zuch95701

I completed my first lower with your guys' jig. I have to say what a well made and easy to use product. There is defiantly a little bit of a learning curve getting a rhythm down with the routing. I did fine that using the adjustment knob on the rigid router and dropping in 5-6 32ns at a time helped the bit cut really easy. I was working in 7075 an ended up with a beautiful lower. I also want to thank who ever came up with the idea of using the router to plunge into the base for the trigger pocket.

You can thank Calguns member JAE for the tip on using the router to plunge into the base to do the trigger pocket without drilling a pilot hole:

http://www.calguns.net/calgunforum/s...48&postcount=5

[hava982931]

Tagged.

[aznanimekid]

will this work for new frontiers c9 80?

[80% Arms]

No. NFA lowers have an unusually wide magwell that is not compatible with the jig.