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Gunsmithing & How To Pro, Amateur & WECSOG and Tutorials, Guides & OLL Build Instructions |
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#1
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Anyone try Froglube?
Anyone try the Froglube on your gun? I recently heard about it and its suppose to be some organic paste that you heat on to your firearm. Sounds kinda weird and the video and reviews seem to be biased. Anyone try it? If it works, I might have to get some and apply it to my bcg.
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#3
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I run it...
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. $500 Donation to any Veterans Charity - Plus $500 Gift Card to any gun store: Visit 2nd Amendment Mortgage / www.2AMortgage.com |
#4
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I eat it. I've applied it to some of my guns but haven't used them in a long while.
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"Extremism in the defense of liberty is no vice, but let me remind you also that moderation in the persuit of justice is no virtue" -Barry Goldwater “Remember that a government big enough to give you everything you want is also big enough to take away everything you have.” -Gerald Ford ^ |
#6
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Placed an order last night. Is there a better method of heating up the parts without using a blow dryer? It seems like it will take forever to get it hot.
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#7
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Get a heat gun and you can heat the parts quick.
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Oppressors can tyrannize only when they achieve a standing army, an enslaved press, and a disarmed populace. -- James Madison The Constitution shall never be construed to authorize Congress to prevent the people of the United States, who are peaceable citizens, from keeping their own arms. -- Samuel Adams, Debates and Proceedings in the Convention of the Commonwealth of Massachusetts, 86-87 (Pearce and Hale, eds., Boston, 1850) |
#8
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Blow dryer gets the parts hot quickly. I bought a small crock pot I'm gonna fill with frog lube to soak parts over night in.
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Cerakote and Stippling https://www.facebook.com/HammerGunWorx |
#11
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Top Notch stuff been using it on all of my customer's guns for over a year now with no issues.
The better method is to apply the paste first then heat it with the blow dryer to melt the Froglube. This way you can turn the firearm around with one hand while running the blow dryer in the other hand to get the Froglube to pour into all the areas and holes. |
#12
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I don't use the paste but I love it. Smells great. I definitely noticed a difference in how smooth my 1911 was racking compared to when I was using CLP. Cleans great. Don't care what other old farts say calling it "snake oil". I'd rather smell like frog lube than Hoppes.
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NRA Life Member WARNING: This post may contain material offensive to those who lack wit, humor, and common sense. Some overly sensitive "men" will be offended. Go Broncos! Go Kings Go! |
#13
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I use it on everything now, I like to clean with clp, then make sure everything is nice and cleaned off, then apply the frog lube paste. I haven't really tried using it to clean but it keeps everything lubed well. It stays on where you put it too.
If you want to heat up your parts faster I would invest in a heat gun. You just need to be careful that you try not too heat up any polymer parts to much Wagner Power Products 503008 HT 1000 1,200-Watt Heat Gun http://www.amazon.com/dp/B00004TUCV/..._am_us?ie=UTF8 This thing gets really hot really quick Sent from my SPH-L710 using Tapatalk 2 |
#14
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Yawn! Another wonder lube. Over the 51 years I have been shooting, loading and just about doing everything firearms related, a new lube or bore cleaner or some other miracle product has come along every few months. All natural this and synthetic that. Greases, oils, and graphitic compounds of great complexity, said to be the cat's meow. There was Ten-X a colliodial graphite suspension popular in the 1970's that was swabbed through bores and allowed to dry, or used as a release agent in bullet molds. Maybe, but the effect was minimal.
On and on it went, Dri-Slide came around sometime in the 1960's and was quite the thing during Viet Nam. The early M-16's had a problem with jamming, and no forward assist in the early iterations, the military issued lubes were part of the problem, so family members sent the G.I.'s care packages of the stuff that worked. http://www.uniquetek.com/site/696296/product/T1247 Then there was the Teflon laced stuff. Teflon is great for thread seal tape, although not as reliable as monkey snot (Rector Seal #5), and it's equally good for frying pans and muffin pans, but has draw backs in firearms if not formulated properly. Then we discovered molybdenum disulphide, great stuff except that it attracts moisture, becomes acidic, and rusts steel, so it needs a companion rust inhibitor. Used as a bullet coating the stuff builds up in the throat as a hellacious carbon ring that is difficult to remove and left in the bore in humid places causes more pitting than smallpox. So, some folks use WD-40, the main ingredient of which is plain old Stoddard Solvent, or naphtha. Which means that it would be cheaper to use kerosene as the paraffin content remains after the volatiles evaporate. Petroleum solvents do that, leave behind a residue of lubrication, which is probably why Jewel Triggers recommends dousing their triggers in lighter fluid (Ronsonol for the Zippo lighter not the barbecue stuff). Now we are paying homage to hexagonal boron nitride (HBN), super slick and pressure resistant, it has become the new darling of the lube and bullet coating fans. I am now experimenting with it as a bullet coating. Naturally some folks decided to mix HBN, Teflon and molybdenum disulphide together in a non-toxic grease carrier. One such product line is found at http://rydol.com/products/firearms/index.htm. I gotta say the little 1 oz jar of the grease I bought from J.P. Enterprises really slicked up my new upper BCG. Stuff makes it feel like a well honed old Mauser bolt, it glides effortlessly with only a miniscule dab. I like stuff you apply with a toothpick, like a jeweler lubing a fine old watch movement. No heating the part, x-rays, vacuum chambers, proton bombardment or incantations necessary, nothing but a toothpick and two fingers. Reminds me of the old motorcycle headlight that instructed me to clean the reflector with a feather - oh yeah, I have a supply of feathers laying around! So, try all that stuff, it's part of the shooting experience. Just remember that some of those products are repackaged industrial commodities, sold with hype at a great markup. One favorite barrel thread compound I used was discovered to be nothing more than standard food machine grade Teflon grease. Often we buy because of the name, Frog Lube, Hamburger Helper, Loony Tuna, whatever. You are not a shooter until you have a shelf lined with half used bottles, tubes and aerosol cans of miracle products now passed over for the latest innovation. Just don't get me going on bore solvents. Last edited by Wrangler John; 01-16-2013 at 3:02 AM.. |
#17
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used it and it left me unImpressed
old stand by BF CLP still used.It worked in my Gov' t issue M16 A1. But my preferred is Slip2000 EWL and for a grease....SUPER LUBE. i use either of the 2 for all weapons cleaning and lubricating. Frog Lube now collects dust. I am sure I'll find a use for it. But dont know for what. |
#18
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#19
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Boy if that ain't the truth.
You can buy all the hip new whizz bang stuff. I've been a machinist tool and die maker for quite some time and in a industry that relies on proper lube we don't get many new fangled products to try as this industry is brutally honest and has a very educated bunch of people doing the work. Trying to pass of some relabeled BS ain't gonna fly. The biggest thing to come along in the oil industry in general is synthetics. The biggest thing to come along in the Gun oil industry is the flavor of the week. When everyone figures out that plain old dino juice is fine and synthetic dino juice is better you can buy that stuff by the gallon for what 8 oz. of some whizz bang gun oil goes for. From a purely scientific stand point you want three to four properties in your gun oil. 1. Lubrication. all oil does that to varying degrees 2. Anti Oxidants, Rust inhibitors. 3. Resistance to temperature change 4. Water resistance if needed. That's it. You don't need some covalent bond to the steel or Ionic polarization. That last one is funny as there was a lube years ago sold as being a polarized lube. ALL petroleum oils are polarized thats one of the reasons they can get as much energy out of oil as they can. But that's another thread. So back to the original four properties we require for gun oils. Think about it, what oil has great lubrication properties has anti oxidant properties, Resists changes in properties due to temperature changes. Good old Hydraulic oil. Now Compressor, Turbine oil, and a good grade of Hydraulic oil will all fit the bill perfectly and you can buy a gallon of it for $10 or less. and up to $30 for the High end turbine or compressor oils. So for $30 a gallon your 4 oz bottle of whizz bang gun oil that's 5$ to $7 a bottle would cost you a whopping $.93 a bottle or $7.50 a quart. Yeah Know what 3 in one oil is made from?? Hydraulic oil with added corrosion inhibitors and some scented oil to make it smell unique Thats it. Now if you must have the best in water resistance or cold temp operation then you need to look at a synthetic. But this stuff is not as complicated as they try to make it out to be. |
#20
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#21
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And lets get one thing clear CLP is not the best choice for a bolt lube. I fall back on the old rule of if it rotate oil it if it slides grease it. Now that doesn't hold true for every instance butI think a lot of what is going on with guns and these wonder lubes is over use. My AR's BCG is greased it the right places and not heavily. everything else gets a drop of oil outer surfaces get wiped down with an oily rag doused with a rust preventative. Every weapon I own is treated the same way. Now you guys can do what you want I'm not here to bash Frog lube in any way, shape, or form. but at $30 a bottle I'll stick with oil and grease. At $30 a bottle it better show a dramatic and marked improvement immediately. And Non toxic is not a benefit it just means it's made from something that won't work as well as conventional oils and solvents. |
#22
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#23
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Ok sure I'll go with that??? To each there own. I kinda like a smelly garage... Keeps the women folk out...
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#24
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The other thing I found out is that a tube of good old white lithium grease is still the premium stuff for most applications. Couple of bucks at the store and even OSH carries it. |
#25
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So basically, like with anything else, you're getting a wide range of opinion a. I use it and like it, but I'm not 100% sold that its the best so I will use it until I try and like something else.
Sent from my Galaxy Nexus using Tapatalk 2 |
#26
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When we buy something @ inflated prices (like FL) it's natural for us to make sure we got our money's worth. It would be interesting to see how much people would still like FL if it were $5/bottle instead of $30.
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#27
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I'm finishing my first bottle, I like that it's non toxic around I clean my guns indoors and have a 2 year old. I'm going to switch to something else when I'm done with it, I'm not really happy with how it does in cold weather.
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#28
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there are worse thing in the house than gun lube.
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#29
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I have used it on three guns, and my reloading press. Works great. Though as others have noted not much of a copper solvent (though if the metal is already conditioned with it, copper stick a lot less anyways)
I was able to wipe all of the grime of my revolver with just a micro-fiber cloth, no more cleaner, after treating it twice...except the cylinder face. The forcing cone I had to use a little and it came shiny clean. That is my only disappointment, the cylinder face. I had gotten it shiny clean before conditioning the metal twice. And while the froglube, after it sits, will take more off than the other cleaners I have tried, it still has a solid black carbon deposit. Only thing that takes it off is leadaway clothes, but those are expensive. |
#30
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kscott/wrangler john: How many of the products that you mentioned are not toxic? For many, that is a big selling point of Frog Lube. I know it is not the best lube, the best cleaner, nor the best rust inhibitor. But it meets the standards required for my weapons in the manner I use them without smelling bad or exposing myself or other to toxic chemicals. That is a huge plus for many. Now, what am I going to do with the rest of the gallon of military CLP I've been running for 15 or so years...
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#31
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I love my FL.. I love the smell. I love that I can clean my guns in front of my tv in the living room and it smells like mint. It may not be the best but it sure is right up there with the leaders ... And if times get tough and your hungry you can spread it on your bread and eat it..LOL |
#32
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Oh lord here we go with the Non toxic deal. The copper brass and lead your rounds are made of are toxic and can get on your hands then onto something that will eventually end up in your mouth. I'm sure you run right to the sink to was you hands after you load a magazine?? Toxicity is all based on how you handle it. If you handle it correctly no issues. If you are sloppy and dirty and don't clean up after your self sure. But how much other crap are we exposed to on a daily basis that is toxic?? I'm not saying lick you fingers when your done but I'm saying we have bigger things to worry about then the minor level of exposure you will reach with a few drops of gun oil here and there. Used motor oil is worse. Second hand smoke is worse. I don't know Pain Hydraulic oil has a near zero smell, the Compressor oil I use has no odor unless you shove your head in the bucket. Pushing it around with my fingers is not an issue as the level of toxicity is very low. Odor of a Lube should tell you something... That is the high degree of solvent in it and the more solvent the less lube you have. If you guys would quit trying all these wonder lubes and just stick with what works you wouldn't have the problems you guys are yaking about. Use a solven to clean, and oil with a antioxidant to lube and preserve. do try to get an oil that will do all three. because it will then do none well. Oh And I'm not a Frog lube hater. I'm a conventional oil user and believer. Until this stuff has a better track record I'm going to stick with tried and true methods and product. Last edited by kcstott; 01-13-2013 at 3:22 PM.. |
#33
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Worked in the horse business where I was exposed to some very potent counter irritant liniments, one iodine blister that had to applied with a paint brush so you didn't get it on your skin - woe to me if I did. Then there was the ether, yeah the same ether in starting fluid - only the anesthetic variety, mixed as a leg sweat. This I rubbed on by hand, eventually stripping all the fat out of my skin. That stuff would melt most gloves. Then there was the DMSO they tried for awhile, even the fumes from the dauber would absorb into the skin and give me the taste of garlic in my mouth. Then I worked as a welder for 12 years, taking after my mother, where i was exposed to welding fumes, just like her. Did a lot of MIG Stellite hard facing on bulldozers and scraper blades, stuff had a high boron content that if breathed would cause lung damage or death. Spray painted with polyurethane epoxy marine paint that releases cyanide, and requires a pressurized respirator and isolation suit if you do it correctly - I didn't, just used a filter respirator. Was constantly exposed to lacquer thinner, and acetone. In my job as a Park Ranger I sprayed various insecticides including Sevin in a giant old Rotomist sprayer to control oak moth larva, and Malathion for fruit flies, and chlordane for yellow jackets, then various herbicides such as 2-4-D, and worse stuff, really appreciated when Roundup came along. Next I worked as a water treatment plant and wastewater plant operator, lots of exposure to gas chlorine and later sodium hypochlorite. Not to mention the constant exposure to raw sewage and aeration basins. So, here I am with no ill effects. My suggestion is to not drink the toxic stuff. Oh and by the way, if you drive a car or truck, that ethylene glycol based coolant is one of the most toxic chemicals around. My neighbor had a cat that walked through a puddle of it on his garage floor, licked his paws and died. So, I use only Propylene Glycol coolant which is biodegradable and very low in toxicity. I also recommend Bore Tech gun cleaning solvents for the same reason, low toxicity and they work really well. Oh, and I gave up bullet casting for using commercially produced cast bullets - when I was a kid I hung around the press room at the newspaper, giant vats of molten Linotype - the old guys warned me about the fumes. Last edited by Wrangler John; 01-16-2013 at 4:21 AM.. |
#34
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The place I have noticed an improvement with frog lube is my carry gun. Between the cotton from underwear and the normal everyday grit and grime I find that my air compressor now cleans the gun in a very short time. Frog Lube doesn't seem to allow the cotton fibers and drust to stick requiring a solvent clean and relube. The build up of fibers and grime in the spring of the magazine is a lot less with frog lube.
There are a lot of truths in new wiz bang products but some hit home runs. Replacing the magneto with points and coil was good. Replacing points and coils with electronic ignition is better. I find viscosity is a driving factor in my custom guns that have less clearance and tolerances in them is an important factor. Being old Hoppies number 9 has a world of memories when I smell the magic elixor. My Dad used #9 and when I smell it a lot of good memories come flooding in. |
#35
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#36
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I bought their lube, paste, and applicator kit a little while ago and ran it through my GLOCK. Works no better than Lubriplate for me however, costs much, much more. Also, the wife hates how Ben-Gay smells, so I can't clean my guns in the bedroom without stinking up the place so this stuff is no good for me. If you like the smell and don't wear gloves while you clean then this stuff might be your ticket though. Once I run out I will switch back to lubriplate spray and grease. Lifetime supply for $10 and all their ratings are posted.
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WTB used AK MFER. |
#37
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Seems to work about as well as any other lube I've tried. The big advantage is that it is nontoxic, biodegradable, etc. For that reason alone, I will continue to use it, even though it is not the cheapest lube out there.
I wish they (froglube) would stop making some of the crazy claims that make it sound like a snake oil. They should just emphasize that is it a good lube, that is nontoxic and smells nice. |
#38
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I dont think it smells like bengay at all.. |
#39
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Absolutely. I use their grease mainly and it hardly has a smell to it at all. The Froglube had a stronger smell in the bedroom. I've spilled Lubriplate oil on the carpet a couple times. Scrubbed with soap and water, then used an oxi-spray carpet cleaner afterwards. No stains.
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WTB used AK MFER. |
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