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  #1  
Old 04-18-2017, 5:17 PM
heidad01 heidad01 is offline
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Default What is the best DIY Cold Blue??

Has anyone had a good experience with any of the quick/cold blueing kits for gun blueing at home?? I do not want to melt salts in the kitchen.
I have watched youtube and read a lot of reviews (mixed), but there do not seem to be one that stands out as the best.
I have a parkerized 1911(new but looks rough to me) that I want to dehorn, polish, and blue. I am not so much worried about rust prevention (I keep them well oiled) as I am about a decent blue finish. Thanks.

Last edited by heidad01; 04-18-2017 at 5:21 PM..
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Old 04-18-2017, 5:38 PM
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I have had good luck with Shooters Solution.

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Old 04-18-2017, 6:02 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by heidad01 View Post
Has anyone had a good experience with any of the quick/cold blueing kits for gun blueing at home?? I do not want to melt salts in the kitchen.
I have watched youtube and read a lot of reviews (mixed), but there do not seem to be one that stands out as the best.
I have a parkerized 1911(new but looks rough to me) that I want to dehorn, polish, and blue. I am not so much worried about rust prevention (I keep them well oiled) as I am about a decent blue finish. Thanks.
If you want a good finish go with slow rust bluing, and it doesn't require special equipment (or space)
Also, melting salts (niter bluing) is not something you want to use on a slide or frame. Just small parts.
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Old 04-18-2017, 6:18 PM
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I've done my own hot bluing in my garage and got very good results but it does take heating a caustic solution to around 300 degrees Fahrenheit. Better than cold bluing would be to do rust bluing. It takes some patience, but you can get a beautiful result that will look a lot better than any cold bluing and probably has better corrosion protection. It is much safer than hot bluing (black oxide) with one drawback being that you can't get a high polish with rust bluing like you can with hot bluing.

If you decide you would like to do a hot bluing treatment, I would be glad to help you with it. I did a lot of trial and error and got a formula that works well for me.
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Last edited by docflash; 04-19-2017 at 12:14 PM.. Reason: spelling
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Old 04-18-2017, 9:09 PM
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I used to use Dicropan Creme often, and recently tried Oxpho Blue Cream, and was impressed. I bought a Marlin 100 that had been neglected. I used oil and steel wool, then Oxpho, and the results are shown in pics:
From this:


To this:

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Old 04-19-2017, 7:23 AM
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I have had good results with Oxpho Blue. I used a heat gun as shown in a couple of YouTube videos. A year later it actually looks better than it did at first.

docflash
I'm looking to try hot bluing please post your formula.
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Old 04-19-2017, 7:33 AM
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I have not tried this but would think its worth a try

http://www.lauerweaponry.com/?fuseac...tegory_ID=1138
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Old 04-19-2017, 9:22 AM
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we use the oxpho-blue and have had good results-
http://www.brownells.com/search/inde...blue&ksubmit=y

http://www.brownells.com/gunsmith-to...-prod1108.aspx
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Old 04-19-2017, 12:11 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by VaderSpade View Post
I have had good results with Oxpho Blue. I used a heat gun as shown in a couple of YouTube videos. A year later it actually looks better than it did at first.

docflash
I'm looking to try hot bluing please post your formula.
Here's the basic formula I used:

Amount of salts for every liter of water:
sodium hydroxide_________780 grams
sodium nitrate____________110 grams
sodium nitrite____________220 grams

There are several useful additives, but they aren't absolutely necessary to get a good result:

trisodium phosphate_________.5 grams (pure stuff, not the Home Depot stuff)
triethanolamine_____________2.5 ml (sequesters the iron that ends up in the solution)
molybdic acid_______________5 grams (improves blackening of hardened steels)
alkylbenzenesulfonic acid______fraction of a ml (surfactant)


You want the solution to be at a rolling boil at about 295 F. You add salts to increase the boiling temp and add water the decrease it. I start off adding about 75% of the salts to the water to start with and add salts until I get to the right boiling point.

There is a lot of other stuff you need to do to get a good result. I'll type up a step-by-step for you and send it via PM. I did six different trials using different concentrations and temps and came up with a setup that worked for me.
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Old 04-19-2017, 12:13 PM
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'ol shooter, that's pretty impressive.
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Old 04-19-2017, 2:39 PM
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I have to say I was pleased with the results, because I sure had my pouty lip on when I pulled it out of the stock. Mechanically is in great shape, stock was harshly treated too, but that's another story.
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Old 04-19-2017, 2:49 PM
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Magic black...
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Old 04-19-2017, 4:42 PM
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Magic black...
What's Ervin Johnson got to do with it?
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Old 04-19-2017, 5:56 PM
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I'm sure not a gunsmith but wanted to fix up a RIA steel CCO i put together from parts. It was all parked so i read up on rust bluing and decided to give it a shot at home. Interesting project,pretty scary trying to get your gun to rust when normally you'd do everything you could to KEEP it from rusting. It came out like this
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Old 04-19-2017, 6:00 PM
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Quote:
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I'm sure not a gunsmith but wanted to fix up a RIA steel CCO i put together from parts. It was all parked so i read up on rust bluing and decided to give it a shot at home. Interesting project,pretty scary trying to get your gun to rust when normally you'd do everything you could to KEEP it from rusting. It came out like this
As we say in the southern part of the state - b1tchin'. Nice job guy.
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Old 04-19-2017, 7:05 PM
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Thanks all for sharing.

Docflash, would you please send me your process?
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Old 04-20-2017, 4:33 AM
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As we say in the southern part of the state - b1tchin'. Nice job guy.
thanks docflash....your work is excellent. I decided to go rust blue because i could do it with minimal equipment. I bought a stainless stock pot at Kobey's swap meet($5), a pair of cotton gloves($4),a pack of 0000 steel wool, and some acetone in a spray bottle for degreasing. You need a heat source to boil water.
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Old 04-20-2017, 6:28 AM
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Originally Posted by zoner View Post
thanks docflash....your work is excellent. I decided to go rust blue because i could do it with minimal equipment. I bought a stainless stock pot at Kobey's swap meet($5), a pair of cotton gloves($4),a pack of 0000 steel wool, and some acetone in a spray bottle for degreasing. You need a heat source to boil water.
Make sure to use distilled water and change it often.
And don't stop before you get to coat 10 or so, even when it is starting to look good.

Here is a video I posted on slow rust bluing a colt 1917
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Old 04-20-2017, 7:14 PM
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i stopped at 8 passes.....it really is a nice finish
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Old 04-20-2017, 8:05 PM
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i stopped at 8 passes.....it really is a nice finish
Pics?
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Old 04-20-2017, 9:24 PM
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i posted a pic six posts above

Last edited by zoner; 04-20-2017 at 9:29 PM..
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Old 04-20-2017, 9:29 PM
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i posted a pic three posts above
Oh, right, sorry. I miss attachments sometimes.
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Old 04-20-2017, 9:32 PM
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Originally Posted by zoner View Post
I'm sure not a gunsmith but wanted to fix up a RIA steel CCO i put together from parts. It was all parked so i read up on rust bluing and decided to give it a shot at home. Interesting project,pretty scary trying to get your gun to rust when normally you'd do everything you could to KEEP it from rusting. It came out like this
heres the pic again....i know nothing about photography
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Old 04-20-2017, 9:42 PM
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Mosin, how do you card the internal areas like cylinder chambers etc? I am thinking about slow rusting that 1911 frame but not sure how to get into the nooks and crannies to remove the fuzz after each boil? I also am picking up a revolver that needs a new finish. What did you plug the barrel on the 1917 with and did it work to keep the blueing agent out?

Thanks!
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Old 04-20-2017, 9:51 PM
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Mosin, how do you card the internal areas like cylinder chambers etc? I am thinking about slow rusting that 1911 frame but not sure how to get into the nooks and crannies to remove the fuzz after each boil? I also am picking up a revolver that needs a new finish. What did you plug the barrel on the 1917 with and did it work to keep the blueing agent out?

Thanks!
Degreased steel wool on Q-tips, toothpicks, etc. Just don't rub too hard. The idea is just to remove velvet, not remove new finish. As soon as you see shine, stop.

Basically if carding brush (.003" crimped wire only) can't reach, use steel wool, wrapped on whatever "tools" you need to make to fit whatever crevices you need to get into.

I pre-make tools first, degrease them, and put into a plastic cup. Grab one when I need it. Shape matters if you want to "respect" edges.

Also, I noticed an interesting reaction during the process...

The boilings closer to the end look silverish instead of black. Not sure why it happens, but it freaked me out. I thought that I messed up because the parts looked very much in-the-white in the water. When I started carding, the black was found underneath the whitish velvet...

Anyone else experienced it?
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Old 04-21-2017, 3:18 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by heidad01 View Post
Has anyone had a good experience with any of the quick/cold blueing kits for gun blueing at home?? I do not want to melt salts in the kitchen.
I have watched youtube and read a lot of reviews (mixed), but there do not seem to be one that stands out as the best.
I have a parkerized 1911(new but looks rough to me) that I want to dehorn, polish, and blue. I am not so much worried about rust prevention (I keep them well oiled) as I am about a decent blue finish. Thanks.
Well you don't know what parkerising is supposed to look like. it's supposed to look rough when new and it will soften with age and use. that's normal.

Now your last comment on a decent blue? Yeah that and cold blue aren't used in the same sentence. cold blue is used for touch up and I would never consider it a proper finish for a firearm. the other issue is you want to polish as well.

now i could take the time to write up six paragraphs why you should not give this a go, but that will just fall on deft ears. lets just say good luck and be advised if you want your pistol blued you can mail it off to a hot bluer, for about $300 they do everything you desire. that said if you have a go at it first they will charge you double to fix your crap then do it right.
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Old 04-21-2017, 6:36 AM
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Mosin, how do you card the internal areas like cylinder chambers etc? I am thinking about slow rusting that 1911 frame but not sure how to get into the nooks and crannies to remove the fuzz after each boil? I also am picking up a revolver that needs a new finish. What did you plug the barrel on the 1917 with and did it work to keep the blueing agent out?

Thanks!
Sorry, forgot to answer your other question. I plugged the bore on my 1917 with the plugs Midway sells. It wasn't to keep the bluing agent out since you control where it goes, but to keep the water out when boiling, etc. It worked really well.

Plugs come in pairs

http://www.midwayusa.com/product/180...one-pack-of-25
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