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  #1  
Old 03-07-2018, 2:41 PM
DSW DSW is offline
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Default S&W revolver striking very light

Hello all,

I picked up a S&W model 64 in a trade recently, and it seems to be striking awfully light. With various US ammo, I am seeing a FTF rate of just over one per cylinder. With some euro ammo, I see almost two per cylinder.

Living in the Bay Area, I don't know of an available gunsmith nearby; they seem to have dried up in the last few years. I'm no gunsmith myself, so I can only conjecture as to why it's doing what it is doing.

Are there any other options before contacting S&W(pins or springs), or would that be the recommended way to go?

Thanks
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  #2  
Old 03-07-2018, 2:47 PM
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camshaft camshaft is offline
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Check the strain screw when removing the grips (the only screw on the hilt)
It may have backed off due to use.

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  #3  
Old 03-07-2018, 2:47 PM
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Your strain screw is probably loose. Tighten it.

Cam beat me to it

Last edited by ARDude; 03-07-2018 at 2:49 PM..
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  #4  
Old 03-07-2018, 2:51 PM
DSW DSW is offline
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Thanks, all. I'll give that a go.

This is my first foray into revolver ownership, so it's not surprising there's stuff like this I need to learn about.
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  #5  
Old 03-07-2018, 2:57 PM
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Donít over tighten. Just snug it down. If it loosens up again you could use a little blue locktite

six_hr4.jpg

Last edited by ARDude; 03-07-2018 at 3:52 PM..
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  #6  
Old 03-07-2018, 3:29 PM
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If that doesn't work buy a new spring from Wolff. I have having similar problems with a 686 and replacing the spring fixed it.

https://www.gunsprings.com/SMITH%20&...3/mID58/dID264
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  #7  
Old 03-07-2018, 3:54 PM
Win231 Win231 is offline
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If the strain screw is turned all the way in, take the gun to a gunsmith. Many used guns end up for sale after the previous owner tried some home gunsmithing - "smoothing & polishing" this or that & ending up with a gun that doesn't function.
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  #8  
Old 03-07-2018, 3:56 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Win231 View Post
If the strain screw is turned all the way in, take the gun to a gunsmith. Many used guns end up for sale after the previous owner tried some home gunsmithing - "smoothing & polishing" this or that & ending up with a gun that doesn't function.
Agree with Win231, or contact S&W.
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Old 03-07-2018, 3:57 PM
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Make sure that the backside of the extractor star and its recess in the rear of the cylinder are clean.
If this area is gunked up, the star will not seat all the way up against the cylinder.
Then when the hammer hits the primer, the case and the star are sitting a little high so they get pushed forward, but the gunk cushions the blow.
Otherwise, check the strain screw and if that does not fix it replace the hammer spring.
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  #10  
Old 03-07-2018, 5:01 PM
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^^^ All of the aboves, and yes, it's a little late since you already got it in a trade, but read this thread (also a sticky on this subforum) to check your specimen out, especially for cautions of bad gunsmithing or other things to replace.

http://www.calguns.net/calgunforum/s...d.php?t=297949
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  #11  
Old 03-07-2018, 7:38 PM
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If you don't mind the drive to Woodland, Craig Maraviov Gunsmithing does some great work with S&W revolvers.
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  #12  
Old 03-07-2018, 8:08 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by DSW View Post
Hello all,

I picked up a S&W model 64 in a trade recently...
If it is a 3" barrel version it is a very common problem and can't be fixed. However, being a good Calgunner I would be happy to take it off your hands for proper disposal.
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Old 03-08-2018, 10:59 AM
curt1950 curt1950 is offline
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you can also buy a longer firing pin that is .020 longer, very easy to put in. see it on YouTube. That is what worked for me.
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  #14  
Old 03-08-2018, 6:02 PM
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Regarding the strain screw, upon learning that backing it out a few turns wasn't such a good idea some folks took to shortning them a bit. Allowing the screw to be screwed down tight but still get a lighter pull and resulting in the occaisonal light strike.

If you need to replace the strain screw be certain to keep a little rearward pressure on the mainspring so that it's upper "hooks" stay engaged with the hammer's stirrup. It's a bit of a PITA re-hooking them without removing the sideplate. removing the sideplate isn't a big deal but if you're new to revolvers it can seem that way.
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Old 03-08-2018, 9:15 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by curt1950 View Post
you can also buy a longer firing pin that is .020 longer, very easy to put in. see it on YouTube. That is what worked for me.
This is true if yours has the frame mounted firing pin. S&W installed the shorter pin for the CA drop test. The longer one is the way to go.
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  #16  
Old 03-08-2018, 9:37 PM
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The model 64 should be old enough that he will not have the new problematic (titanium) firing pin.

I'm betting someone backed out the strain screw, or if it's old, the mainspring is just worn and tired.

You're too far up north, but find a local member like me who knows how to work on S&Ws. I'd swap your mainspring free at any local shoot, and it would take me all of 3 minutes.

If you care to drive down to the Burbank shoot next Friday, I'd take care of it for you

Wolff or Brownells will sell the spring you need- the standard power K/L frame spring will solve this- assuming the screw isn't just backed out.

These springs do wear out- I shot my 625 enough at the local shoot I've worn out a Wolff spring.
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  #17  
Old 03-09-2018, 10:24 AM
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My bet is bubba did a poor job at putting in a Spring Kit.
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  #18  
Old 03-09-2018, 11:25 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Barbarosa View Post
If it is a 3" barrel version it is a very common problem and can't be fixed. However, being a good Calgunner I would be happy to take it off your hands for proper disposal.
Good man! I hear those 3Ē ones detonate without warning!
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  #19  
Old 03-10-2018, 10:28 PM
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You may need a new strain screw. Some home brew guys grind it down to do a trigger job. Brownells is your friend. Nice six shooter


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  #20  
Old 03-13-2018, 7:01 PM
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Where about in the Bay Area are you located?

I'd be glad to take a look at it if you'd like, and show you the ropes about your gun. I have a lot of experience in gunsmithing S&W revolvers.
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  #21  
Old 03-14-2018, 2:12 PM
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Also check the endshake. (the difference in barrel to cylinder gap with the cylinder pushed forward at lockup, vs the gap with the cylinder pushed back) Should be a difference of about .004 or less. If there's too much endshake, some of the energy that should be used to dent the primer will be wasted on pushing the whole cylinder forward.
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