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#1
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Machining Help for a Guitar Project
I know this is gunsmithing forum but I figured someone here may be able to help me out.
I’m working on a Stratocaster project but the bridge I have is too long. I’m trying to remove the excess material (red painted part) so I can make it fit. Would anyone take a 6 pack to help me out? I’m located in la puente/West Covina IMG_2465.jpg IMG_2464.jpg Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk Last edited by Eatmyshade; 12-09-2018 at 2:10 PM.. |
#5
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Have you looked into Callaham's options? https://www.callahamguitars.com/strat_catalog.htm It's generally not a good idea to remove mass from the trem block... that will hurt sustain. I'd rather remove wood from the rear of the cavity if what you want is to allow for a deeper "dive bomb"
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- Rich |
#6
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Hmm. "dive bomb", I don't think that's what he's after. As far as keeping sustain and easier to keep in tune, not sure about trimming that bit off.
Deck the bridge[carefully], and that may solve a problem. Looking a second time, Not sure you can trim at that spot. Waiting for answer here also. In my above comment, I was thinking of something a bit different. Sorry if I went off course. |
#7
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If I understand correctly, the trem is sticking out of the back of the trem cavity? Then, it's not the right part or the body isn't the right part for the bridge/trem. That's a pretty big difference between the trem block and the body thickness. I have a Fender '62 Reissue (99) and the trem block is inset roughly 1/8" from the back of the body.
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Les Baer 1911: Premier II w/1.5" Guarantee, Blued, No FCS, Combat Rear, F/O Front, Checkered MSH & SA Professional Double Diamond Grips Springfield Armory XD-45 4" Service Model Springfield Armory XD9 4" Service Model (wifes). M&P 15 (Mine) |
#8
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Ya, that area can be trimmed. That is the rear side, away from the springs (blank area at the right is there the trem arm screws in on the treble side).
I've seen some import models (Squier and Mexico) that have the block angled on that side. It does allow for a little more downward movement of the arm without bottoming out. It's not uncommon for arms to get broken off at the top end of the threads when the block hits the body and people continue to push.
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- Rich |
#9
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Ya, if the block is too tall, it's likely because he has a Squier body that is thinner than standard, and using a current block. Cutting it 1/2" shorter will also require a fresh counterbore for the string ends and redrilling the holes for the springs.
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- Rich |
#10
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It could be pot metal now that you bring it up.
Fender Vintage-Style Standard Series Stratocaster Tremolo Assemblies https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00LJY360C..._ydBdCbCCFC69F That’s the one I got It’s an American/Mexican size bridge but I’m putting this in a Squier Stratocaster guitar. The body is thinner on a Squier so the tremolo block is sticking out and can’t screw the tremolo cover back on. I wouldn’t shave down the tremolo for my American Strat but this is a project guitar so I’m just messing with it. Going to change the tuners, headstock trees, nut, and pickups as well but everything depends on getting the bridge back on. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk |
#11
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Quote:
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If he has to trim the block, counterbore the string ends and redrilling the holes for the springs, he's better off with a new/correct trem block. Or, get a different design trem for his desired style (Floyd Rose???). For me, my trem has all 5 springs and the trem block is solid up against the front of the body of the guitar. I never use the trem on my Strat. If I ever need to use any trem, I've got my Gretsch Hot Rod with a big ole Bigsby.
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Les Baer 1911: Premier II w/1.5" Guarantee, Blued, No FCS, Combat Rear, F/O Front, Checkered MSH & SA Professional Double Diamond Grips Springfield Armory XD-45 4" Service Model Springfield Armory XD9 4" Service Model (wifes). M&P 15 (Mine) |
#12
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Compounding the issue is that not all Squier bodies are thinner than standard, and Squier parts are generally sourced locally (China) and are not Fender-made.
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- Rich |
#13
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Hey guys thanks for the help.
I check the depth of the holes and I wouldn’t need counterbore new holes for the strings or springs. Took a pic as a comparison from the original next to the new block. Big upgrade in sustain with this heavier block. IMG_2468.jpg I would love a Floyd but that’s way more work. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk |
#14
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Another alternative is to go the Robert Cray route with a solid bridge/tailpiece.
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Les Baer 1911: Premier II w/1.5" Guarantee, Blued, No FCS, Combat Rear, F/O Front, Checkered MSH & SA Professional Double Diamond Grips Springfield Armory XD-45 4" Service Model Springfield Armory XD9 4" Service Model (wifes). M&P 15 (Mine) |
#16
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That should not be any sort of problem for a properly equipped machine shop.
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Randall Rausch AR work: www.ar15barrels.com Bolt actions: www.700barrels.com Foreign Semi Autos: www.akbarrels.com Barrel, sight and trigger work on most pistols and shotguns. Most work performed while-you-wait, evening and saturday appointments available. |
#17
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It shouldn't be a problem for any modestly equipped garage... That was more of a heads-up for any well-meaning person offering to help
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- Rich |
#18
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Just do it!
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God so loved the world He gave His only Son... Believe in Him and have everlasting life. John 3:16 NRA,,, Lifer United Air Epic Fail Video ... https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=u99Q7pNAjvg |
#19
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Dude! Are you still fretting about this? Fretting? Get it? I'm in La Habra, just over the hill from you.
Either I can hog it down as you envision, or ruin it completely. 50/50 chance. No guarantees. Even though tomorrow is Christmas Eve, I'm going out for a ride in the morning, then will be out in the garage playing with toys. It might not take more than 20 minutes to gather all the tools, set it up, and cut it down. It shouldn't be difficult. |
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