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  #1  
Old 12-08-2018, 7:26 PM
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Default Machining Help for a Guitar Project

I know this is gunsmithing forum but I figured someone here may be able to help me out.

I’m working on a Stratocaster project but the bridge I have is too long. I’m trying to remove the excess material (red painted part) so I can make it fit.

Would anyone take a 6 pack to help me out? I’m located in la puente/West Covina

IMG_2465.jpg
IMG_2464.jpg


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Last edited by Eatmyshade; 12-09-2018 at 2:10 PM..
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  #2  
Old 12-09-2018, 1:13 AM
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What's that material made out of?
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  #3  
Old 12-09-2018, 8:05 AM
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If you want to pay shipping both ways I'll do it for free. 5 minute job, tops.

Hopefully you can find someone local.
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  #4  
Old 12-09-2018, 2:12 PM
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Shaffer- it’s too heavy to be aluminum, pretty sure it’s steel.

Cuda- thanks! I’ll see if anyone else local can help me.




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  #5  
Old 12-09-2018, 2:40 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Eatmyshade View Post
Shaffer- it’s too heavy to be aluminum, pretty sure it’s steel.
What year is it from, and where was the guitar made? It could be "pot metal" Zamac, particularly if it is very heavy.


Have you looked into Callaham's options?
https://www.callahamguitars.com/strat_catalog.htm
It's generally not a good idea to remove mass from the trem block... that will hurt sustain. I'd rather remove wood from the rear of the cavity if what you want is to allow for a deeper "dive bomb"
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Old 12-09-2018, 2:59 PM
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Hmm. "dive bomb", I don't think that's what he's after. As far as keeping sustain and easier to keep in tune, not sure about trimming that bit off.
Deck the bridge[carefully], and that may solve a problem.
Looking a second time, Not sure you can trim at that spot. Waiting for answer here also. In my above comment, I was thinking of something a bit different.
Sorry if I went off course.
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  #7  
Old 12-09-2018, 3:24 PM
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If I understand correctly, the trem is sticking out of the back of the trem cavity? Then, it's not the right part or the body isn't the right part for the bridge/trem. That's a pretty big difference between the trem block and the body thickness. I have a Fender '62 Reissue (99) and the trem block is inset roughly 1/8" from the back of the body.
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  #8  
Old 12-09-2018, 3:26 PM
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Ya, that area can be trimmed. That is the rear side, away from the springs (blank area at the right is there the trem arm screws in on the treble side).
I've seen some import models (Squier and Mexico) that have the block angled on that side. It does allow for a little more downward movement of the arm without bottoming out. It's not uncommon for arms to get broken off at the top end of the threads when the block hits the body and people continue to push.
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A just government will not be overthrown by force or violence because the people have no incentive to overthrow a just government. If a small minority of people attempt such an insurrection to grab power and enslave the people, the RKBA of the whole is our insurance against their success.
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  #9  
Old 12-09-2018, 3:30 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by XDJYo View Post
If I understand correctly, the trem is sticking out of the back of the trem cavity? Then, it's not the right part or the body isn't the right part for the bridge/trem. That's a pretty big difference between the trem block and the body thickness. I have a Fender '62 Reissue (99) and the trem block is inset roughly 1/8" from the back of the body.
Ahh... I was thinking that he wanted to cut the large side back a bit.

Ya, if the block is too tall, it's likely because he has a Squier body that is thinner than standard, and using a current block.

Cutting it 1/2" shorter will also require a fresh counterbore for the string ends and redrilling the holes for the springs.
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Quote:
Originally Posted by dantodd View Post
A just government will not be overthrown by force or violence because the people have no incentive to overthrow a just government. If a small minority of people attempt such an insurrection to grab power and enslave the people, the RKBA of the whole is our insurance against their success.
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  #10  
Old 12-09-2018, 3:33 PM
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It could be pot metal now that you bring it up.

Fender Vintage-Style Standard Series Stratocaster Tremolo Assemblies https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00LJY360C..._ydBdCbCCFC69F

That’s the one I got

It’s an American/Mexican size bridge but I’m putting this in a Squier Stratocaster guitar. The body is thinner on a Squier so the tremolo block is sticking out and can’t screw the tremolo cover back on. I wouldn’t shave down the tremolo for my American Strat but this is a project guitar so I’m just messing with it. Going to change the tuners, headstock trees, nut, and pickups as well but everything depends on getting the bridge back on.



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  #11  
Old 12-09-2018, 3:37 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Cokebottle View Post
Ya, that area can be trimmed. That is the rear side, away from the springs (blank area at the right is there the trem arm screws in on the treble side).
I've seen some import models (Squier and Mexico) that have the block angled on that side. It does allow for a little more downward movement of the arm without bottoming out. It's not uncommon for arms to get broken off at the top end of the threads when the block hits the body and people continue to push.
Quote:
Originally Posted by Cokebottle View Post
Ahh... I was thinking that he wanted to cut the large side back a bit.

Ya, if the block is too tall, it's likely because he has a Squier body that is thinner than standard, and using a current block.

Cutting it 1/2" shorter will also require a fresh counterbore for the string ends and redrilling the holes for the springs.
Well...hmmm...after re-reading some of the posts, I think I may have misunderstood. You may be right. I suppose we'll need to find out from the OP what he actually wants to accomplish or what problems he is running into.

If he has to trim the block, counterbore the string ends and redrilling the holes for the springs, he's better off with a new/correct trem block. Or, get a different design trem for his desired style (Floyd Rose???).

For me, my trem has all 5 springs and the trem block is solid up against the front of the body of the guitar. I never use the trem on my Strat. If I ever need to use any trem, I've got my Gretsch Hot Rod with a big ole Bigsby.
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  #12  
Old 12-09-2018, 3:47 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by XDJYo View Post
If he has to trim the block, counterbore the string ends and redrilling the holes for the springs, he's better off with a new/correct trem block. Or, get a different design trem for his desired style (Floyd Rose???).
It can be tough to find OTC blocks that fit the thinner Squier bodies.
Compounding the issue is that not all Squier bodies are thinner than standard, and Squier parts are generally sourced locally (China) and are not Fender-made.
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Quote:
Originally Posted by dantodd View Post
A just government will not be overthrown by force or violence because the people have no incentive to overthrow a just government. If a small minority of people attempt such an insurrection to grab power and enslave the people, the RKBA of the whole is our insurance against their success.
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  #13  
Old 12-09-2018, 3:51 PM
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Hey guys thanks for the help.

I check the depth of the holes and I wouldn’t need counterbore new holes for the strings or springs.
Took a pic as a comparison from the original next to the new block. Big upgrade in sustain with this heavier block.

IMG_2468.jpg

I would love a Floyd but that’s way more work.


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  #14  
Old 12-09-2018, 4:04 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Eatmyshade View Post
Hey guys thanks for the help.

I check the depth of the holes and I wouldn’t need counterbore new holes for the strings or springs.
Took a pic as a comparison from the original next to the new block. Big upgrade in sustain with this heavier block.

Attachment 759953

I would love a Floyd but that’s way more work.


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Wow! That's a huge difference!

Another alternative is to go the Robert Cray route with a solid bridge/tailpiece.
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  #15  
Old 12-09-2018, 6:24 PM
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get a brass block if you want more sustain and tone.
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  #16  
Old 12-09-2018, 7:05 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Eatmyshade View Post
I know this is gunsmithing forum but I figured someone here may be able to help me out.

I’m working on a Stratocaster project but the bridge I have is too long. I’m trying to remove the excess material (red painted part) so I can make it fit.

Would anyone take a 6 pack to help me out? I’m located in la puente/West Covina

Attachment 759753
Attachment 759755
I can do it.

Quote:
Originally Posted by Cokebottle View Post
Cutting it 1/2" shorter will also require a fresh counterbore for the string ends and redrilling the holes for the springs.
That should not be any sort of problem for a properly equipped machine shop.
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  #17  
Old 12-09-2018, 7:15 PM
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That should not be any sort of problem for a properly equipped machine shop.
It shouldn't be a problem for any modestly equipped garage... That was more of a heads-up for any well-meaning person offering to help
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Quote:
Originally Posted by dantodd View Post
A just government will not be overthrown by force or violence because the people have no incentive to overthrow a just government. If a small minority of people attempt such an insurrection to grab power and enslave the people, the RKBA of the whole is our insurance against their success.
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  #18  
Old 12-23-2018, 4:31 PM
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Just do it!
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  #19  
Old 12-23-2018, 8:08 PM
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Dude! Are you still fretting about this? Fretting? Get it? I'm in La Habra, just over the hill from you.

Either I can hog it down as you envision, or ruin it completely. 50/50 chance. No guarantees.

Even though tomorrow is Christmas Eve, I'm going out for a ride in the morning, then will be out in the garage playing with toys. It might not take more than 20 minutes to gather all the tools, set it up, and cut it down. It shouldn't be difficult.
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