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Rimfire Firearms .22, .17 and other Rimfire Handguns and Rifles |
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#1
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Ruger 1022 what model to buy
So ive been wanting to do some target shooting . Went to turners to buy the target wood stock 20 in bull barrel model and couldn’t get passed how heavy it was compared to the take down model with stainless barrel and plastic stock so I didn’t buy. What’s the best model to buy or should I not worry about the weight and get the target one with the heavy barrel not sure? Any advice would be helpful thanks.
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#2
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I have the stainless target. It is heavy but very accurate. Shoots most anything I run. Seems to like CCI HV best.
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NRA Life Member CRPA Member Idaho 2nd Amendment Member Escapees Elks Last edited by traveler1952; 02-14-2018 at 4:18 PM.. |
#3
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Weight helps when target shooting. Do you plan to shoot off a bench or offhand? Get the Target model if you are going to be target shooting. That is why it is named a "Target" model.
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Life is hard. Being stupid makes it harder. - John Wayne |
#4
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Oh boy,,,,,, I had two Ruger 10/22 rifles, for me and for me only the two I had are the best two of the 28 models in www.riflegears website.
But I can not give you any recommendation because there are too many 10/22 models on the market and many parts that you can build your own rifle from Volquartsen, Tactical Solution and many more that I don't know . I am sorry that I can not help you. The only thing I can guaranty you that any 10/22 rifle will NOT let you down. Good luck. Last edited by newbie1234; 02-14-2018 at 4:18 PM.. |
#5
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Ebullient a used beater
The aftermarket for them is huge and it’s like playing with Legos. I’m barely able to change a car tire and found building my niece a bull barrel target rifle was a snap.
Don’t know how ‘buy’ became ebullient. WTF? Last edited by Sutcliffe; 02-14-2018 at 4:34 PM.. |
#9
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Curious have you tried CCI Standard Velocity?
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#12
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No I have not. I have several thousand rounds of CCI HV on hand so no need for any additional.
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NRA Life Member CRPA Member Idaho 2nd Amendment Member Escapees Elks |
#15
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I suppose, but for me a semi auto is about pulling the trigger for a 22.
Target shooting for me is accuracy, 10/22 isn't going to get you there without spending 3-4 times the price of the gun on upgrades. M1A, different story for a semi auto. |
#16
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Just ment wasn’t hunting any particular varmint. Yeah I didn’t know there was an issue with using a semi automatic have some fun shooting some targets. The particular model 1022 I bought was specifically sold as a target rifle.
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#17
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That's not true, I have a couple stock 10/22s that are tack drivers.
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#18
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Good choice.
I just put a 24x scope on the wood/blue target model below and that improved my groups considerably over the 9x I had on it had for years. The polymer/stainless one I use to let my kids use (they're grown now) since its rust proof and stock mar/scratch proof. BTW the weight is all relative, I have match center fire rifles that weight 18 lbs so a 10/22 bull seems light. |
#20
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I like the thin barrels from Ruger (light weight, as accurate as any others I've tried and don't cost anything). I also prefer no sights and muzzle decoration, so you have to find one of the "tactical" 10/22s.
I put them in ADTAC stocks, cause they look cool, have great ergonomics, are light, can be used with either fat or thin barrels and don't cost a ton. https://adaptivetactical.com/product...22-rifle-stock Finally, I live the Tandemkross 10/22 charging handle, it moves the handle to the proper (left) side of the gun and doesn't raise the scope too much. https://www.tandemkross.com/Advantag...022_p_216.html And some trigger parts (usually trigger with overtravel stop, springs and maybe hammer and sear, depending on how bad the stock unit is) and modify the bolt release so letting the bolt go forward doesn't require two hands. For optics, I'm liking the Bushnell TRS-25. You can find them for as little as $50.00 if you're patient and they've worked flawlessly for me on 10/22s, 9mm AR15s and a shotgun. I end up with a nice, light, accurate gun with a nice trigger that didn't cost me a ton. Not including optic, I'm usually into it about $300.00. You can spend more, but at how much money do you want to dump into a $250.00 gun? BTW, my most accurate 10/22 is a Heavy Taper Barrel rifle. All I did to that one was the bolt release modification and install a Volquartsen trigger (just the trigger, not the whole assembly). It has a nice, 2.25 lb trigger, and puts five rounds in 3 overlapping holes @ 50 yards with a Nikon scope. |
#21
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Funny the way things work. I went to Turner's and looked at the same model OP looked at. What I liked about it was it had substance to it. I have a blued synthetic stock version that I shoot quite a bit and I almost don't like it because it's like a toy gun. I'm getting to where I shoot more and more rimfire. I'm getting tired of getting beat up by centerfire.
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Former Front Sight Commander Member NRA Benefactor Life Member www.nra.org CRPA Life Member www.crpa.org NRA Instructor: Pistol, Personal Protection in the Home, Range Safety Officer |
#23
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LVT is the one with the tapered heavier than stock barrel. I have one. They are an amazing bargain and if mine is any indicator, super accurate.
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#24
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The wait is on only 6 days left. Im feeling confident in my purchase. 1022 laminated wood stock 20in bull barrel target model. Thanks for all the comments. Getting more feedback on this 22 rifle than I did when I build my 80 percent AR.
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#25
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Buy an old one. Metal trigger group not plastic. Anodized receiver not painted. If you want to be a serious .22 target shooter buy an aftermarket barrel otherwise just stick with the standard one.
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#26
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Quote:
And I have a light varmint target tapered bull barrel on one and a threaded pencil barrel on the other, both Ruger stock barrels. Both will put multiple bullets into the same hole at 50 yards when I'm up to the task. One gun is for fun plinking off the bench, LVT barrel suits that task. The other is for steel challenge and other such games. For that one I like the light weight. I had a bull barrel on it, it felt nose heavy and was more of a chore for steel challenge than the lighter barrel. |
#27
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So I got new rifle. Ran a bore snake in barrel lubed up a couple of areas on bolt sliding surfaces. And took it to indoor range and put about 100 rounds threw it I had several failure to load. I had a few failure to fire. And I had one at the end failure to fire and did not eject left in barrel. Didn't see it tell I got home and was just starting to tear down for cleaning and I spotted it stuck in barrel. I wiggled it out with a tiny screw driver came right out but was not to happy at end of night.
First new firearm I've owned that ever had issues like this. Any heads up for me would be appreciated. |
#28
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Quote:
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#29
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Remove bolt, clean everything, lightly lube bolt sides and top, lube rear of bolt where it pushes the hammer back, lube guide rod /spring assy.
Be sure there is no paint overspray inside the receiver, remove with steel wool if needed. Use a brush and cleaning rod to be sure the chamber is clean.
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#31
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Everyone should have at least one Ruger 1022.
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Former Front Sight Commander Member NRA Benefactor Life Member www.nra.org CRPA Life Member www.crpa.org NRA Instructor: Pistol, Personal Protection in the Home, Range Safety Officer Last edited by diverwcw; 03-02-2018 at 8:02 PM.. |
#33
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Quote:
Current 10/22s have painted receivers. Most will have some paint overspray on the inside ceiling of the receiver that slows down the bolt and causes cycling problems until the rifle is broken in. You can clean the overspray off manually, by disassembling, removing the bolt, and polishing with a scotch brite pad. Doesn't have to be as shiny as in this pic, but try to get most of the overspray off: Sometimes failures to feed are cause by the magazine binding in the mag well. You should be able to slide a business card in between the magazine and the stock on both sides, and the mag should drop free easily when you press the mag release. If it doesn't, sanding the stock on the insides of the mag well will remove binding. This may also help with failures to eject, since the primary ejector on the 10/22 is built into the magazine lips. As mentioned, the extractor on the 10/22 is stamped steel, and not always sharp/precise. A Power Custom or Volquartsen extractor is a cheap fix, but you can also sharpen and increase engagement of the factory extractor with a jeweler's file: Filing the bottom white shaded area increases engagement; filing the left white shaded area sharpens the hook. |
#36
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Thanks for all the suggestions I will do all of these tips.
My current ammo was Remington green bullet and Winchester from Wally mart cheap stuff. I will start by cleaning up receiver so bolt runs smooth. And I’ll use cci ammo till broke in. Would like to run target cheap loads in future. I ordered new extracted plate. Thanks again. It seems very accurate with the shots I got out indoor range is only 25 yards. |
#37
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I don’t think there are any “target cheap loads”.
Quality, and quality control cost $$ and when you buy the 500+ bulk ammo that is under 5-8 cents per round you are going to get what you’ve paid for. Read stickies above about this or just head the advice, buy your ammo in boxes of 50, or sleeves of 100 (can be in case form, but should be individually packed in 50s) I will echo others suggested extractor mods (just buy one, the stamped sheet metal is no bueno). Get your self some 50/100 round boxes from many manufacturers, many bullet weights and velocities and find out what your barrel likes best. |
#38
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All of my .22s work great with CCI Blazer, which I got in 2006 or so for $110.00/5k rounds. I bought a bunch. It's miles better than Federal''s bargain .22 ammo.
Now it will be more expensive today, but that was as bargain basement as you could get then or now. This is good ammo for anything short of high level Bullseye shooting. Functions and shoots tiny groups in several 10/22s, Ruger Standard, 2 - MkIIIs, a High Standard HD Military and a Mossberg M44 US. |
#39
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Quote:
CCI Blazers can be very accurate, but if you think you'll be shooting at 50, then CCI Standard Velocity is a great all around shooter for a little more $. Here's some comparisons of cheap ammo (cheap ammo challenge). Blazer comes out on top (a special lot), and sub MOA (~1/4"; 4 group average). The rest come in above MOA, but less than 2, which is generally what you get out of cheap bulk ammo in a decent rifle. http://www.rimfirecentral.com/forums...d.php?t=828146 CCI SV will shoot sub MOA pretty easily at 25. |
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