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Curio & Relic/Black Powder Curio & Relics and Black Powder Firearms, Old School shooting fun! |
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#2
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HiWall or LoWall? Serial number for DOM?
http://www.calguns.net/calgunforum/s...d.php?t=410211 |
#3
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Gun Parts Corp used to have firing pins. If not, try C.Sharps Arms in Big Timber MT. Any center fire 1885 firing pin should work; I don't think there is any difference between the lowall and hiwall pins. There are several other manufacturers of 'Wall clones in the US, at least one in Idaho (Meacham Arms) and there used to be one in Michigan (Ballard Arms?). Don't think the pins from the foriegn "copies" (they are more like "adaptations"....) will work. Including the "Blowning" and "Winchester" 1885s made by Miroku.
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#4
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There's two different pin diameters for smokeless and BP, and only vintage Winchester pins, or copies fit the Winchesters. The repros and and new models use a totally different rebound spring set up.
Numrich doesn't carry them, and everyone else that did, is out of stock or no longer offer them. Bob at www.gun-parts.com still lists them at $45. There's a guy that's always at the spring Big Reno Show that has them for $30 last time I checked, but he doesn't have a website. |
#5
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@ trap55, I believe it's a low wall, which I just googled, as I'm really new to these rifles. The serial #is 89502, what is DOM?
Thanks for the info so far, I'm looking forward to researching and getting it firing. I'll try and post some pic's, the finish is in bad shape, but I think it's good mechanically. I'm going to soak it in breakfree and wipe it down to start with. Any other tips are welcomed. |
#6
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Made early in 1901, with 3,286 made that year.
Post some pics! Let's see your broken firing pin too, it may be fixable. If the pin is gone, try to measure the firing pin hole, I have the two sizes written down here somewhere. I think they are .072, and .120 for BP. |
#7
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Probably a lowall since most .32-20s were. But not all--I had a hiwall with a 30" #3 barrel in .32WCF once. Bought it on the Lac du Flambeau reservation in Wisconsin in the early 1970s.
Yours "should" be a coiled mainspring model with a small diameter firing pin, since it is past the time the action was changed from flat to coiled mainspring, and after the high velocity .32-20 round was developed by Win for the 1892. But with 'walls, you never know until you know. Because of parts cleanups and workers finding old, unused parts in odd corners of the factory, you can find 'walls with just about ANY combination of old and new features. Pulling the forend will tell you if it has a coiled or flat mainspring. The flat mainspring is under the barrel inside the forend. If it isn't there, you have the later coiled mainspring variation. |
#9
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One more pic with two questions. What's missing on the left of the serial # When I took it apart there's no screw hole in the wood and can you get a replacement front site? Also what do the 2 stamped in the wood mean?
Last edited by wheels52; 03-05-2013 at 8:22 PM.. |
#10
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I'll need to get a breakdown pic to tell you what screw is missing in the tang--can't get to my books for a while, will get back. I got replacement screws for mine at a company in Washington State; I'll remember the name presently.
I'd say any Marbles or Lyman dovetail bead front sight would be authentic enough. A "real" Winchester sight wouldn't be very different, if you could find one. Except the price! Many of them came from the factory with Marbles sights (at a slight extra cost). The "2" on the forend wood tells the boys in the stocking room that the forend was made to mate up with a #2 weight barrel, which was a special order (not THAT special, tho) on a lowall. Standard was #1, the lightest barrel. Yours should have a faint number 2 stamped on the barrel flat just in front of the ebony wedge on the lower forend tip. |
#11
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The missing screw holds the knock off spring, is the spring still in there?
Can you post a close up of the front and rear sights? It looks like your front sight is an original Rocky Mountain front sight? Let's see what's missing, and I'll give you a list of places to track it down. |
#12
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If the knock off spring screw is missing, the nut that holds it place may also be missing. Little flat square job threaded for the screw. Not hard to make if you have the screw and a friend with a set of taps.
I bought spare screws for my lowall "parts gun" from Cedar Creek Screw and Machine in Washington State. What they sent, worked! Hope they're still around. |
#13
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Thanx you guys, this is very helpful. I've added the pic's of the sights. From your descriptions, I can tell it's a screw and nut that are missing, the spring was still inside. Still not clear on how to measure for the firing pin. Is it the small hole where the pin goes through to strike the cartridge? Could I measure it with a drill bit? I'll try calling cedar creek tomorrow.
I found this info on Leeroysramblings.com for an 1885. 2585-B Firing Pin, Black Powder (.122 dia tip) 2585-S Firing Pin, Smokless Powder (.074 dia tip) |
#15
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Yeah, the key dimension is the hole on the other side where the pin hits the primer. So a pic of the front of the breechblock would help.
Looks to me like the front sight is intact and original. Rear sight is busted and not complete. I'll look up what was original issue, and post it once I find out. Somebody probably makes a repro. I would go over this gun with penetrating oil like Kroil and bronze wool, the finest grade you can get (I get mine from the local True Value hardware store). A good rubdown with wiping off with soft cloth will get all the surface crud and rust off without removing any remaining blue or case color. Then you can read any faint markings and see what you have, in detail. What's the bore like? OT:Can a fella still start a good fight in your town by calling it "Chickaluma"? Worked great in the 1950s! My dentist can vouch for that..... |
#16
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That front sight blade is most likely German Silver, clean that up so it's silver again. The edge of the blade needs to be trued flat and square. 600grt wet or dry wrapped tight on a hard block will do that. Go slow.
Finding an original rear sight with the H cut leaf instead of the U notch could be a pain. This is the cheapest repro I could find that goes with the front sight. http://homesteadparts.com/shopcart/pid_1522.htm Leave it in a glass of Coke over night, rinse, dry, oil, and the patina will match the rest of the gun. Unless the threads are stripped, the knock off spring base is what the screw threads into. If it's stripped, find a machine screw that fits the tang and hole, and put a nut on it. Easier than finding a screw and new spring. Call Jim at http://www.tapaderaswinchesters.com/partslist.html for screws, or bring the tang, spring and breech block to the Reno show next month, and have him dig out the screw and see if he has a firing pin. Mike, do you still have your LoWall? |
#17
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Yeah, Trap, I still have my "resurrected" lowall; it's a .25-20WCF (not .25-20 "Single Shot"). Receiver and stock are off an 3rd Model Winder Musket; rest of it is mixed parts from several guns. Looks pretty good, shoots fine, but just a "shooter."
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#18
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Quote:
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#19
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Very nice; classic job! .32-40 is a great all round ctg., too. Back in the day they used it for everything from indoor plinking to deer.
I have a made-up hiwall shooter like that but it's in .30-40 (its original caliber but a new barrel). Also have an original hiwall .38-40 with a special order #1 barrel and a C.Sharps hiwall replica in .44-40, which I shoot a lot. |
#20
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Didn't happen without pics.
I really like this .32/40 cartridge. Had a friend cast me 800 165grn FN bullets from an original Winchester mold I picked up. Loaded with TrailBoss, it's like shooting a .22. Have I dated your Winchesters for you yet? |
#22
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Cambell's books were published back in '96, before Bert had the polishing room records, so he probably used the Madis numbers. PM me or post them here and I'll see if the dates are correct.
Bert should be about ready to publish his comprehensive book on the Winchester 1885. It will be hardbound with color photos. A "small" sample of his collection: |
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