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  #81  
Old 08-06-2014, 6:27 PM
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Nice thread, Vader!
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  #82  
Old 08-06-2014, 7:03 PM
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Thanks goober, it's good to see you. You haven't been hanging out in gunsmithing much.
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  #83  
Old 08-06-2014, 10:13 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by hawaii five-0 View Post
When you guys are staking the plunger tube, do you relieve the inside of the frame a little bit so that the metal from the plunger tube leg has a place to displace into, or just stake it as is from TM?
It would make sense to relieve the back side for the tube leg to swage out easier and have some negative draft to hold it in place.
The frames are probably soft enough that this is happening a little bit with the swaging tool though.
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  #84  
Old 08-10-2014, 11:13 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by VaderSpade View Post
WOW! It went to 1 in stock to ships in 2-4 weeks. Glad I grabbed it.
I ordered one of these on Thursday or Friday thinking it was going to be a bit of a wait, but it just shipped out yesterday.
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  #85  
Old 08-10-2014, 11:55 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by BMartin1776 View Post
curious if one drills to size but pins are not snug what do you do?
You can coat your pins to add some thickness.
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  #86  
Old 08-11-2014, 8:43 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Germz View Post
You can coat your pins to add some thickness.
don't coatings rub off?

I would think knurling would be more suitable.
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  #87  
Old 08-11-2014, 9:38 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by bksa View Post
don't coatings rub off?

I would think knurling would be more suitable.
how much abuse are you REALLY going to be putting the pistol through defines the amount of effort put into a solution. i probably won't shoot mine 1,000 times this year...so duracoat would be an ok option for me if I had too small of pins and only needed to add on a couple thousandths.
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  #88  
Old 08-13-2014, 9:02 AM
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Great forum post and how to - thank you!

Are you building for yourself only, or will you at some time offer the milling service to others who have an 80% 1911 frame?
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  #89  
Old 08-13-2014, 9:24 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by rctex45 View Post
Great forum post and how to - thank you!

Are you building for yourself only, or will you at some time offer the milling service to others who have an 80% 1911 frame?
build parties/ services have gone way of dinosaur... grab a file if you don't have tools and start filing away!
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  #90  
Old 08-20-2014, 3:36 PM
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What size half round bastard file for the seat?
Haven't seen this question answered yet on any of the forums.
Or does it not matter that much?

I am going to take most of it out with a 9/16 ball end mill, because thats what I have on hand, so i just need the file for cleaning it up.
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  #91  
Old 08-20-2014, 8:47 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by VaderSpade View Post
Thanks goober, it's good to see you.
You too! Glad you're up to good things as usual
Quote:
You haven't been hanging out in gunsmithing much.
or anywhere
been work-busy of late.
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  #92  
Old 08-21-2014, 5:55 AM
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which of thes files would work best for the barrel seat? anyone?

http://www.amazon.com/dp/B006P2XRY8/ref=biss_dp_sa1

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  #93  
Old 08-21-2014, 6:47 AM
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Here is a Great example of what can be done with these Tactical Machining 1911 frames.
A client sent this to be engraved. He milled off those groves a few people don't seem to like, reshaped the trigger guard and is making a Colt Reproduction. He plans on tig welding and reshaping what's left of the rail cut.





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  #94  
Old 08-21-2014, 7:10 AM
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And I got one of those checkering jigs from Yari's thread; http://www.calguns.net/calgunforum/s...d.php?t=970676

http://www.warner-machining-design.com/gunsmithing/

So far so good, I'll post more as I get to it. There are just not enough hours in the day.

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  #95  
Old 09-01-2014, 6:41 PM
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I'm checkering now too and indeed there's not enough time in many days. I get to sneak in an hour a day and I started Saturday. I'm almost done with the long lines...this is going to be a long journey...
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  #96  
Old 09-02-2014, 11:17 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by VaderSpade View Post
WOW! It went to 1 in stock to ships in 2-4 weeks. Glad I grabbed it.

I also ordered a 7/64 .1093 key cutter. I'm sure one of these is going to be just right touching off of the dust cover. I'll post my results once I get them.
Did you try this yet? Results?

I'm thinking about buying a 3mm keyseat too. I understand the logic in getting this instead of the 3/32 keycut. Makes sense since the Aimsmalls(kto) jig uses a 3mm square end mill for this cut and it only takes a pass.

Have you tried using the aimsmalls jig with a TM frame? I have both jigs but haven't tried the TM jig or frame as I just bought them and looking for tooling. Hoping I can reuse some end mills and drill bits, but looks like I may be better off buying the TM recommend tooling sizes.

Any recommendations on where I can reuse bits/mills for both types of frames?


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  #97  
Old 09-02-2014, 3:34 PM
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3mm sounds good. Maybe a little too close for comfort? Maybe depending on the fit that you want 3mm cut with no clean up is too close? I don't know haven't got that far yet I'm just thinking out loud.

But where to get a 3mm key set cutter? I've googled and can't find anything.
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  #98  
Old 09-02-2014, 5:26 PM
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I got both of those; have not used either yet but the 3mm fits very snugly in the rail cut that I made too big and my slide is a little loose. I probably won't try to use it.
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  #99  
Old 09-02-2014, 5:57 PM
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I personally ordered:

Interstate #03062122
HSS STR TH KEYWAY CUTTER 1
303NO.2123/8x3/32

Ordered from Enco, didn't cost much.... Seemed to be the most recommended size from all the forums/threads I have searched.

I personally would always prefer to get a touch smaller and take an extra pass to get the right width.. that way you can make a cut and check clearances and potentially have room to trim both sides of the cut if needed.
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  #100  
Old 12-27-2014, 8:28 AM
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A little engraving fun, and a few more builds before the 31st.
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Last edited by VaderSpade; 12-27-2014 at 9:16 AM..
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  #101  
Old 12-27-2014, 8:46 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by VaderSpade View Post
Vader, first and foremost, looking good as always.

What are you using for your engravings?

Still using the Tormach?
Tool shape/size?
Spring loaded holder?
How are you doing your raster to vector?






.
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  #102  
Old 12-27-2014, 9:24 AM
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I am still using the Tormach but I just needed to rebuild the Z axis. About 1000 hours and the ball screw wore out.

I'm using Vectric Vcarve Pro to generate my G code.

I use different tools for different jobs and I have way too many hours of trial and error to give up all my secrets.
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  #103  
Old 12-27-2014, 9:58 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by VaderSpade View Post
I am still using the Tormach but I just needed to rebuild the Z axis. About 1000 hours and the ball screw wore out.

I'm using Vectric Vcarve Pro to generate my G code.

I use different tools for different jobs and I have way too many hours of trial and error to give up all my secrets.
Fair enough; I forgot you do these engraving for profit.

FWIW, I do not have a raster to vector program so I trace manually in SW to create dxf's which engrave really well because they are all arcs and lines which translates to g-code really well (as opposed to going point to point which bogs down my old machines).

I've been meaning to buy one of the spring loaded heads but haven't gotten around to it. I asked about yours because on narrow lines any variation in depth of cut makes a fairly pronounced difference in engraving width. Smaller included angles obviously help with this. A lot of the forgings are incredibly not flat. I think the worst I've seen varied by .010" across the magwell area. Best I can do with the tools I have is to average the z location of what ever surface I am engraving.



ETA: I could probably guess accurately at the actual tool you used but your secret is safe with me
.

Last edited by Lostsheep; 12-27-2014 at 12:18 PM..
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  #104  
Old 12-27-2014, 11:43 AM
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Great post !
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  #105  
Old 12-27-2014, 6:59 PM
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For using paper to check clearances and alignment I have often used cigarette rolling paper which runs about .001".
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  #106  
Old 06-03-2015, 7:13 AM
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Here are a couple my son and I milled before the new year and put the final touches on over the 3 day weekend. These were made with cheap Sarco kits, less than $400.00 invested in each.


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