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  #41  
Old 07-28-2014, 11:39 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by hylander View Post
Any other way to cut the barrel bed, $65 and up for a one time use bit is kinda high for me
Have done it by eye with just a dremel . its not precise but worked fine. Had to work at it till barrel lugs and slide locked up nicely.
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  #42  
Old 07-29-2014, 5:40 AM
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Originally Posted by VaderSpade View Post
For drilling the holes it worked just fine. Cutting the rails with an end mill was a nail biter. You have to completely trust the jig because there is no way to adjust. My rails came out a few thousands low and I needed to mill the deck down. It worked but it's not right.
Depending on how much you remove from the deck height you will probably end up with either having to buy a different size link or not having the maximum barrel to slide lockup that you should have. You need at least .050 minimum lockup to prevent premature wear of the slide.
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  #43  
Old 07-29-2014, 5:49 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by hylander View Post
Like I posted before this IS the right cutter for the 1911 rails and you will still probably have to do some finally fitting but not as much..
http://www.keocutters.com/product/ke...-10-5-x-3-hss/
Which is 3mm = 0.11811in
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  #44  
Old 07-29-2014, 5:55 AM
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Originally Posted by hylander View Post
Any other way to cut the barrel bed, $65 and up for a one time use bit is kinda high for me
Again like I posted before I have done NUMORUS 1911s and all have been done with a 5/8" Ball Mill, and all are working. Just Mill to depth down the center at .077 that the prints call for and widen the cut on both sides at same depth for close to the right radius.

Last edited by tr6guns; 07-29-2014 at 5:58 AM..
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  #45  
Old 07-29-2014, 9:48 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by tr6guns View Post
Like I posted before this IS the right cutter for the 1911 rails and you will still probably have to do some finally fitting but not as much..
http://www.keocutters.com/product/ke...-10-5-x-3-hss/
Which is 3mm = 0.11811in
Do you (or anyone) know where you can just put in an order for a 3 mm keyseat cutter? I went to their site and was directed to their distributors, 30 minutes later none of them stock this.

I'm thinking that if you touch off on the dust cover with this cutter one pass and you're done. Anyway I want to give it a try.
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Last edited by VaderSpade; 07-29-2014 at 9:51 AM..
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  #46  
Old 07-29-2014, 10:22 AM
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Originally Posted by VaderSpade View Post
Do you (or anyone) know where you can just put in an order for a 3 mm keyseat cutter? I went to their site and was directed to their distributors, 30 minutes later none of them stock this.

I'm thinking that if you touch off on the dust cover with this cutter one pass and you're done. Anyway I want to give it a try.
http://www.amazon.com/KEO-68250-Keys...uctDescription

edit: last one gone now. You get it?

Last edited by bauern; 07-29-2014 at 10:38 AM..
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  #47  
Old 07-29-2014, 10:33 AM
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Thanks, I'm a little concerned about the 10" head diameter in the listing but the part number is right so I'll give it a try.
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  #48  
Old 07-29-2014, 10:38 AM
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WOW! It went to 1 in stock to ships in 2-4 weeks. Glad I grabbed it.

I also ordered a 7/64 .1093 key cutter. I'm sure one of these is going to be just right touching off of the dust cover. I'll post my results once I get them.
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  #49  
Old 07-29-2014, 11:57 AM
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Anyone know why they call for a 2 flute? I'd assume normally a four flute for steel.
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  #50  
Old 07-29-2014, 12:29 PM
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Originally Posted by milotrain View Post
Anyone know why they call for a 2 flute? I'd assume normally a four flute for steel.
I think just price? The cut is not too deep and two will work just fine.
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  #51  
Old 07-29-2014, 8:00 PM
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These the right Mill ?
Price seems good

http://www.ebay.com/itm/351004925882...84.m1423.l2649

http://www.ebay.com/itm/351087246488...84.m1423.l2648
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  #52  
Old 07-29-2014, 8:05 PM
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They look good but shipping from the UK almost doubles the price. Sure to take a while to get here.


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  #53  
Old 07-30-2014, 5:19 AM
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Originally Posted by hylander View Post
Might need a 18mm collet to run that ball mill? ( looks like the shank is the same size ) Or a 3/4" chuck to hold it in..
That's the reason I have been just using a 5/8" ball like I said above.
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  #54  
Old 07-30-2014, 5:23 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by VaderSpade View Post
Do you (or anyone) know where you can just put in an order for a 3 mm keyseat cutter? I went to their site and was directed to their distributors, 30 minutes later none of them stock this.

I'm thinking that if you touch off on the dust cover with this cutter one pass and you're done. Anyway I want to give it a try.
That's what I do but make two passes, the last one about 0.010 just to give me a smoother finish and to make sure the depth is right..
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  #55  
Old 07-30-2014, 6:26 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by tr6guns View Post
I make two passes, the last one about 0.010 just to give me a smoother finish and to make sure the depth is right..
Always a good idea^^
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  #56  
Old 07-30-2014, 7:28 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by tr6guns View Post
Might need a 18mm collet to run that ball mill? ( looks like the shank is the same size ) Or a 3/4" chuck to hold it in..
That's the reason I have been just using a 5/8" ball like I said above.
If you can get a 3/4" R8 collet to hold an 18mm shank then you will likely have ruined the collet. R8s don't have a large gripping range, and certainly not .040" of gripping range. Here is an 18mm collet for not much money.

I see this a lot, people buy a "kit" to build a project and then balk at the price of the tool that they will only use once. No offense but buying the "kit" should have happened after you figured out how much it would cost to finish it.
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Last edited by milotrain; 07-30-2014 at 7:31 AM..
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  #57  
Old 07-30-2014, 7:31 AM
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I had to buy a 18 mm collet for mine, nothing I had came close.
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  #58  
Old 07-30-2014, 8:55 AM
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Well Poo
I didn't even think about needing the collet
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  #59  
Old 07-30-2014, 9:16 AM
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It's likely best to start making a spreadsheet of the tools you need to complete this project to make sure you can start it and complete it. I hate nothing more than finding out that I'm missing the tool I need half way through a project, for me that often is the death of said project for a while.

Have you considered stones for fitting the small parts?
Have you considered a jig for polishing the trigger?
Have you considered small files for fitting?
Lapping compound?
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  #60  
Old 07-30-2014, 9:20 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by milotrain View Post
It's likely best to start making a spreadsheet of the tools you need to complete this project to make sure you can start it and complete it. I hate nothing more than finding out that I'm missing the tool I need half way through a project, for me that often is the death of said project for a while.

Have you considered stones for fitting the small parts?
Have you considered a jig for polishing the trigger?
Have you considered small files for fitting?
Lapping compound?
Got everything but the ball mill and collet.
Should of ordered an 11/16 mill since I already have an 11/16 collet.
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Last edited by hylander; 07-30-2014 at 9:24 AM..
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  #61  
Old 07-30-2014, 9:33 AM
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bleh, forgot I had to grab a collet for the 18mm end mill. Should have splurged for the EGW tool.
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  #62  
Old 07-30-2014, 10:06 AM
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The 18mm I got had a 5/8 shank.
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  #63  
Old 07-30-2014, 10:35 AM
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Tooling ALWAYS costs more than the parts. Welcome to the machine world. I think all of us who have done machining know that.
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  #64  
Old 07-30-2014, 11:00 AM
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I'm at about $500, although I haven't added the last few orders to the spreadsheet...
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  #65  
Old 07-30-2014, 11:22 AM
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I plan to spread mine over at least 10 builds so it's not so bad. Two sons and a son in law will be building their own (third son maybe).

Son in law runs a big fanuc cnc mill for a living and has his own bridgeport (1941), so he'll just need to borrow a few tools and the jig.
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Old 08-01-2014, 7:08 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by milotrain View Post
If you can get a 3/4" R8 collet to hold an 18mm shank then you will likely have ruined the collet. R8s don't have a large gripping range, and certainly not .040" of gripping range. Here is an 18mm collet for not much money.

I see this a lot, people buy a "kit" to build a project and then balk at the price of the tool that they will only use once. No offense but buying the "kit" should have happened after you figured out how much it would cost to finish it.
When I referred to a 3/4" chuck I was referring to a Drill Chuck, not a Collet.
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  #67  
Old 08-01-2014, 9:36 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by tr6guns View Post
When I referred to a 3/4" chuck I was referring to a Drill Chuck, not a Collet.
But you certainly are not suggesting to do a milling action with a drill chuck right?
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Old 08-01-2014, 12:59 PM
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If you have a bolt on or thread on drill chuck in a mill, you won't put excess load on your spindle bearings and the chuck won't walk off the arbor. Still not recommended, but would work loads better than drill press.
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Old 08-02-2014, 6:09 AM
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My point was that if you have no other options and have a 3/4" CHUCK that it would work. And also that milling operation if people are doing it with a file is not critical and that is why I use a 5/8" Ball Mill. A 11/16" ball would be closer but its so d#m expensive to buy that personally I can't justify it.
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  #70  
Old 08-02-2014, 10:32 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by BMartin1776 View Post
curious if one drills to size but pins are not snug what do you do?
Live with it.
Your drill bit drilled oversized.
This is why drilling undersized and reaming to final size is better.
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Old 08-02-2014, 10:35 AM
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Quote:
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Live with it.
Your drill bit drilled oversized.
This is why drilling undersized and reaming to final size is better.
So what size drills bits should I use to drill to ream?
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  #72  
Old 08-02-2014, 10:45 AM
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kcstott posted this eariler.

Here's my rule of thumb for reaming holes

5/32" and under I go 1/64 undersize or there abouts.
5/32- .5" 1/32" undersize
.5" to 1.0" 3/64" under
1.0 and up I'm boring the hole out not reaming.

The reason is the bigger the drill the bigger it can drill over size and .015" on a .5 hole is nothing and a large drill can drill oversize easy.

The other thing is you can sharpen a reamer from over working it. but you can't fix a over sized hole that easy. tooling is expendable
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  #73  
Old 08-02-2014, 10:49 AM
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Quote:
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So what size drills bits should I use to drill to ream?
In the hole sizes we are dealing with in the frame, 0.010" to 0.015" undersized is good.
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  #74  
Old 08-02-2014, 1:38 PM
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So it's ok to drill the Hammer hole with a 9/64 drill bit then ream with 5/32 reamer.
Then drill Sear with 3/32 drill bit then use a 7/64 reamer?


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Old 08-02-2014, 3:31 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by VaderSpade View Post
I had to buy a 18 mm collet for mine, nothing I had came close.
23/32" is close enough.
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Old 08-02-2014, 3:32 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by eagershooter View Post
So it's ok to drill the Hammer hole with a 9/64 drill bit then ream with 5/32 reamer.
Then drill Sear with 3/32 drill bit then use a 7/64 reamer?
Yes, but those holes might end up a little bit tight.
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  #77  
Old 08-04-2014, 11:42 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by eagershooter View Post
So it's ok to drill the Hammer hole with a 9/64 drill bit then ream with 5/32 reamer.
Then drill Sear with 3/32 drill bit then use a 7/64 reamer?


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Sear pin: 3/32 bit followed by #35 reamer
Hammer pin: just use a 4mm bit alone or a 5/32" bit followed by a .1575" reamer.
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  #78  
Old 08-06-2014, 4:26 AM
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^^ good info I just finished barrel seat and the rails I made them a tight fit so I have to lap in. I am drilling the holes in a day or so.
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Old 08-06-2014, 4:59 PM
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When you guys are staking the plunger tube, do you relieve the inside of the frame a little bit so that the metal from the plunger tube leg has a place to displace into, or just stake it as is from TM?
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  #80  
Old 08-06-2014, 5:21 PM
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I just staked my first one (and my Ares) the way it came. It seems fine but that is something I wanted to take a closer look at.
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