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Centerfire Rifles - Semiautomatic or Gas Operated Centerfire rifles, carbines and other gas operated rifles.

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  #1  
Old 05-28-2013, 9:29 PM
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Default Muzzle brake for 30-06

I've had two separate gun smiths tell me I should get a muzzle brake on my 30-06.

Is this because it gets them 300 of my dollars, or will this really do anything for my shooting?

Yeah, the thing kicks, but I can handle 20 rounds from a bench and then not be sore the next day - so I am not sure what I gain in terms of "recoil reduction".

Also. I am not sure what 2 more inches on a 22" barrel will do for accuracy.
Once the projectile gets past the muzzle the gun can go anywhere and it will not "curve the bullet"...

So what's the deal?

Any tangible, evidence-based recommendations?
Has anyone compared shooting with and without a muzzle brake on a 30-06?
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Old 05-28-2013, 9:33 PM
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Most people shoot lower recoiling guns better than higher recoiling guns. It's not so much about "I can shoot 500 rounds of .50 BMG and not feel a thing the next day" but more about "I don't subconsciously flinch because even if I pretend not to care about the recoil my brain is still saying don't do this to me anymore because it hurts".

That being said, you can train out an involuntary flinch, it just takes time and concentration. It's easier to just not acquire the flinch in the first place.
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Old 05-28-2013, 9:39 PM
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Good point.

My approach has been: "The gun will recoil. I'll focus on sighting and target acquisition and smooth trigger pull. Once the projectile is out of the barrel, it will go where the sight (properly zeroed) pointed at the time of pin strike"

What would you recommend as an exercise to "train out" an involuntary flinch?
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Old 05-28-2013, 9:47 PM
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Same as you do for a pistol, have a friend load you gun with a snap cap or two somewhere in the magazine. If it's a single shot, have your friend load your gun and sneak a snap cap in. Make sure to not watch while you cycle the new round in lest you figure out when you get to the snap cap.

Breathe, aim, squeeze, and you'll figure out if you're flinching or not.

If you are, go back to shooting a .22 and concentrate on your trigger squeeze and keeping everything still and consistent. When you go back to the big gun it's the same thing, concentrate on the trigger squeeze and consistency.

Also, really good ear pro helps.
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Old 05-28-2013, 10:14 PM
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All good advice from above. Also, if you're recoil sensitive, you can buy a recoil shield as made by Past and others to give you some relief as benchrest shooting can be a tad punishing with some lighter weight 30 caliber and larger rifles. Besides, it is cheaper than installing a muzzle brake.

Personally, I've never seen the need for a muzzle brake. They don't make the rifle more accurate and the muzzle blast from rifles equipped with brakes can usually be counted on to anger other shooters and people in the immediate area.
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Old 05-28-2013, 10:17 PM
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Funny you should mention muzzle blast:

http://www.thetruthaboutguns.com/201...-muzzle-blast/
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Old 05-28-2013, 10:49 PM
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Of it is a hunting rifle, keep it brake free.

The muzzle blast to the shooter and increased SPL from many brakes cause permanent hearing loss.


Maybe I missed it in your post but why did they suggest a brake?
What was the problem they were looking to fix?

For target shooting a good brake can lessen the push on the shooter and help shooters keep a better natural point of aim.
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Old 05-28-2013, 10:55 PM
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I went into one shop for advice on a bipod. They tried to sell me on a brake.
I was at another shop getting some work done on my 1897 and noticed they had the same gun I have on the rack and they also said to get a brake.

I want to hunt and shoot from the bench in between.

Seems like a pad will do more for less than a $300 muzzle job.
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Old 05-28-2013, 11:12 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by DrVino View Post
I've had two separate gun smiths tell me I should get a muzzle brake on my 30-06.

Is this because it gets them 300 of my dollars, or will this really do anything for my shooting?

Yeah, the thing kicks, but I can handle 20 rounds from a bench and then not be sore the next day - so I am not sure what I gain in terms of "recoil reduction".

Also. I am not sure what 2 more inches on a 22" barrel will do for accuracy.
Once the projectile gets past the muzzle the gun can go anywhere and it will not "curve the bullet"...

So what's the deal?

Any tangible, evidence-based recommendations?
Has anyone compared shooting with and without a muzzle brake on a 30-06?
Steel plate to my shoulder, and 30-06 is nothing out of a Garand, but out of a 1903 that's another story. I guess we are assuming your shooting a bolt gun?

My PRI Quite Control brake seems to work ok so far, quite for the shooter, not so much for those around you.
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Old 05-28-2013, 11:17 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Justintoxicated View Post
I guess we are assuming your shooting a bolt gun?
Ruger American Rifle

Nice entry level boom stick.
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Old 05-28-2013, 11:24 PM
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The muzzle brake will make the rifle much more comfortable to shoot from the bench and can be removed when you go hunting. Thread protectors can be had to protect the threads while the brake is off.

Depending upon the brake, most should be between $100-200 installed. If some shop is telling you $300, go elsewhere (not that you're gonna do it anyway).

-Rick
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  #12  
Old 05-29-2013, 4:20 PM
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I charge around $100 to $120 to install a brake, while-you-wait.
There are good $50 muzzle brakes from Ross Schuler.
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Old 05-29-2013, 4:24 PM
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ar15barrels
where are you located?
what makes the difference between $100 and $100
are they removable?
What do I lose if do have one installed and then don't like it?
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Old 05-29-2013, 4:32 PM
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Damn dude, stop going to that shop.
My wife had asked for a muzzle break on HER Remington 700SPS in 30-06. I agreed and may be getting one for mine.

We went with the Precision Armament M11 Severe Duty Break (we found ours for about half of Brownells price

http://www.brownells.com/rifle-parts...prod54370.aspx

308 is the same size bean as 30-06, I took it to Parallax Tactical in San Diego and for $50 they threaded the barrel, and got the break on and called me to pick it up within a few hours.
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Old 05-29-2013, 7:40 PM
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My bro's got the same rifle and wanted to get his braked but that barrel seems too thin for the 5/8" threads on my brakes (Ross Schuller) maybe a 1/2" would work but not sure! I never miked the barrel contour.
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  #16  
Old 05-29-2013, 11:49 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by DrVino View Post
ar15barrels
where are you located?
what makes the difference between $100 and $100
are they removable?
What do I lose if do have one installed and then don't like it?
My location is in my profile.
Cost depends on the total job.
If a brake needs to be bored out to clear the bullet and blended to match the barrel' that is more work than a brake that is already bored for the bullet and the same diameter as the barrel.
All brakes are removable if you have the tools.
If you specifically want a removable brake, get one that threads and clamps on the barrel instead of one that just threads on.
Then you don't have to worry about re-indexing it each time and you don't have to tighten it as much since the clamp screw will hold it in place.
I recommend the R&D rapid brake which is now sold by battle arms as a good removable brake option.
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Old 05-30-2013, 11:12 AM
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The Harrell Bros sell good brakes for around $30 a piece.Here is there website and the Harrell Bros are extremely well known in the accuracy world.
http://www.harrellsprec.com/
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Old 05-31-2013, 6:13 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ar15barrels View Post
I charge around $100 to $120 to install a brake, while-you-wait.
There are good $50 muzzle brakes from Ross Schuler.
What would you charge for a .875 tapered to .570 threaded 1/2x28?
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Old 05-31-2013, 6:52 PM
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For those who say a brake can cause damage to your hearing... It's called ear pro

Brakes reduce muzzle climb and felt recoil. Faster follow up shots is your result. Cons are greater muzzle blast and increased flash signature
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Old 06-01-2013, 8:47 AM
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I run brakes on a few of my rifles.
They are very loud.They do cut the recoil down to a comfortable level.They are loud.I said that.You are warned.
I have bought the Harrells.They need to be finished as well as your barrel threaded.If you buy the proper size,the smith can turn them to the contour of your barrel.Get a thread protector made or buy one in case you want to use the gun without the brake,say in a hunting situation.
They make different types:Ports all around and side discharge,for shooting prone.All around ports are more effective on recoil.Side discharge keeps your dust signature down.
AR15(Randall) is offering a decent price for doing it for you.
I use a guy in Rialto that builds and installs his version for around $125.It looks like the Harrells ones he has installed for me.He will make a thread protector for around $20 more.I shouldn't quote another man's prices,so I am just qouting the last price from summer of last year.It may be a little more.
PM me if you want his name and number.He has fitted 2 of the Harrells and built 3 of his own for me.I use some ported all around and some side discharge.
As I stated earlier.Loud.People usually move when I am shooting next to them on a bench.To the best estimate at least 30-40% of felt recoil is removed.I use them on 300 Win Mag,300 RUM,338 Win Mag and a 223.Why?With the 223 the reticle barely climbs from the target.I see my hits.Even my ARs I have swapped over for actual brakes.The most effective(factory) brake I have ever used is on a FN Scar 17(308).It is loud and neighbors at the bench get pressure feedback when I shoot it.Recently I used it at a women on target meet.Most were brand new shooters.Even the smallest gal wanted to shoot the 17 as much as they allowed.
My hunting guns I use the thread protectors.I usually do not have earplugs with me.The brakes on the big muthas will make your ears ring for a couple days with even one shot.

Last edited by Coyotegunner; 06-01-2013 at 8:50 AM..
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  #21  
Old 06-01-2013, 9:22 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by DrVino View Post
What would you charge for a .875 tapered to .570 threaded 1/2x28?
I'm not clear on exactly what you are asking.
Is the barrel profile 0.875" tapering to 0.570 at the muzzle?
The barrel diameter has no effect on the cost of a brake installation.
You just need to get a 0.580" diameter brake if you want it to match the diameter.
You can also get a slightly larger brake and I can taper the brake to match the barrel...
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Old 06-01-2013, 10:55 AM
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On a muzzlebrake you want the most surface area possible for the gases to impinge upon in order tame recoil.If the ports are directed rearward it becomes even more efficient at reducing recoil.
In the picture the small brake is from Darryl Holland and is for my 338 Lapua hunting rifle.The brake is a chamber style brake meaning the inside is hollow so everything(gases) not going out the sides or following the bullet out slams into the brake itself.A very good brake in general but some don't like the bulb affect on the end of the barrel finding it not very aesthetically pleasing.If you find a brake with holes on the top but no counteracting holes on the bottom don't walk away from it run away.It will lift the buttstock upwards into your cheek until you eventually start bleeding when your cheek cracks open.
One of the larger brakes pictured is made out of titanium while the others are steel and the big clamshell brake is simply the most outstanding brake on the market today.
It is made by barrel maker Ken Johnson from K-P barrels and goes on a 50 bmg.It has indexing shims to keep it all lined up.
Lynn

Last edited by LynnJr; 09-22-2013 at 8:21 PM..
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Old 06-01-2013, 11:24 AM
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I don't like getting beat up by guns.... That being said I have learned to shoot a lapua without a brake and avoid getting beat up or even black and blue sores for a week. The catch is how you lock that rifle into the pocket and get your body perfectly lined up to become a shock absorber.

With light weight hunting style rifles in -06 and magnums the recoil is substantially more and unfortunately while shooting in the field you won't be prone unless your are in a tree house of a deer stand or off a patio somewhere. Shooting accurately in awkward positions with a magnum can be a trick, especially when you know the position sux. Having something like a Vais brake that makes an -06 shoot like a .243 makes fighting the flinch all that much easier. I put brakes on everything. With the hearing protection available today if a guide wants to beach about having to wear ear pro when I take that shot that's his problem.

I send my work to Sinister Arms. The guy has a multitude of rifles that shoot ten shot one hole groups. He put a brake on my hunting rifle, I lapped the barrel and it shoots one hole groups at 200y. You could ask him to recrown it as well if that's in question.

matt@sinisterarms.com

Last edited by Knife Edge; 06-01-2013 at 11:32 AM..
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