high primers

[captn-tin]

After swageing LC 11 brass with both an rcbs swager or dillon swager the primers, useing a Lee hand prime tool, don't seem to be seating all the way down. They don't protrude a lot but still wiggle when placed on a flat surface. Not really noticeable at first glance, but it just ain't down all the way. Any suggestions? Thanx

[milw50717]

Sometimes you have to just have to remove a little metal or try another primer.

I have had issues of not being able to easily seat primers or having high primers in some RG NATO 5.56 brass. I put them through the Dillon swager multiple times and it didn't help, so I bought an RCBS reamer and that worked a treat.

Another thing that caused me grief was using Remington 7 1/2 SRP as these seem to be a bit higher then other SRPs - the anvil can sit proud of the primer case. If you have another brand of primer give them a try.

Another thing to consider is if there is any crud left in the primer cup. Do you tumble after depriming ? This is unlikely in my book, but worth checking.

[captn-tin]

Yep. The brass has been tumbled. Useing CCI 41 primers. Have some other brands of sr primers. Will mike-em to see if any difference. Thanx

['ol shooter]

I bought a double ended primer pocket gage, no more guessing. One end checks for correct pocket swage, other end indicates if it's too big to use if it's been reloaded before. I actually bought the set, useful for checking neck tension.

https://ballistictools.com/store/

[OpenSightsOnly]

Originally Posted by captn-tin

After swageing LC 11 brass with both an rcbs swager or dillon swager the primers, useing a Lee hand prime tool, don't seem to be seating all the way down. They don't protrude a lot but still wiggle when placed on a flat surface. Not really noticeable at first glance, but it just ain't down all the way. Any suggestions? Thanx

I use the Dillon 600 Swager and have processed over 10k or so of once-fired LCs and WCCs.

A few things I learned:

a) Sort the the headstamp and year together. Why? That allows you to group the type of crimp. Some are concentric while some are lopsided/elliptical. Adjust the swage rod for a lot that you are working with.

b) Keep a few of the spent primers and re-use that to test your swaged pockets. The used primer should seat without interference. If it's smooth, that's good. Then, use a live primer. It should seat with a slight resistance but it ought to be flush or below flush.

Primers I have been using are - CCI 450, CCI BR4, Rem 7.5 BR, and Wolf/Tula SRM (the best!)

[JackEllis]

I start with used cases and sort them as I'm decapping. If there's a lot of resistance, they go in the pile to be swaged (RCBS tool).

I end up with one or two out of every hundred cases where the primers don't seat properly on the first go-round. Those go through the swager again.

[rg1]

I think this example is where a primer pocket uniformer is needed. When you use a certain primer with certain cases that primer pocket depth's vary the cases need the pockets uniformed to a consistent depth. The high primers aren't the result of swaging but shallow pockets or max height primers. Only takes a little while to run all cases through the pocket uniformer in a battery operated drill. You don't want to cut pockets too deep, just find the few with shallow pockets. I would only recommend a primer pocket uniformer with an adjustable cutter. I have seen a certain lot of primers that the cups were too tall.

[hambam105]

It is the plastic primer seat plug disintegrating. Or the pot metal body of the tool sheet the bed and now the body expands when you apply seating pressure.

Hand fatigue. You are applying the same amount of human, that is if you are, never mind, effort, but not getting the real force needed.

Try seating a primer in a civilian W-W or R-P or FC case. LE Wilson case cage when used properly can show a high primer. Remember Francis in the movie, Splattoon? 'We're going to get high high high yes sir'. I digress.

Try seating a primer off the press or try seating a primer with, another, primer seating device and see if you still get high primers. Swaged military primer pockets might be a little tighter than civilian primer pockets but that doesn't mean the pocket is insufficiently swaged.

Ninety-nine point nine nine nine percent of modern day primers are made to correct tolerances. A good set of calipers should be capable of measuring primer seat depth. If I knew how to post pics & vids I'd show you.

[hambam105]

dupe.

[Plumas]

What's the best solution to remedy those cases where a primer is already installed and is obviously 'high'?

I'm gun-shy about really trying to force it deeper, or trying a standard primer decapper....how do you remove the primer so you can further work on the case or discard it?

I'd considered placing the case in a vise and with eye and ear protection smacking it with a hammer, haven't tried it yet...is that too stupid?
Need advice from the old hands.

['ol shooter]

I have pushed a few out with the press with no issues, go slow and wear protection.

[divingin]

Originally Posted by Plumas

What's the best solution to remedy those cases where a primer is already installed and is obviously 'high'?

Seater uses a primer sized punch to push the primer in. Really, really low chance of setting off a primer by seating it.

how do you remove the primer so you can further work on the case or discard it?

Same way you get a spent primer out. Wear glasses and hearing protection if it makes you nervous. I've done it with a lot of cases, and have yet to have one go off. I do go slower than with spent primers, but part of that is to track where the primer goes (in case it misses the chute.)

I'd considered placing the case in a vise and with eye and ear protection smacking it with a hammer, haven't tried it yet...is that too stupid?

Yeah, because it probably won't do anything other than smash the case. Then you'll be unable to use standard decapping tools to get the still-live primer out.

[jtake]

If you are re-seating a primer, in addition to all of the other safety suggestions (go slow and easy), it should be obvious that that you do NOT reseat primers in loaded brass.

If you have already loaded the round, break it down and then reseat the primer. While igniting a primer by reseating it is rare, it has been known to happen, and there is a big difference between a fully loaded round going off and just a primer going off.

[baih777]

Originally Posted by Plumas

What's the best solution to remedy those cases where a primer is already installed and is obviously 'high'?

I'm gun-shy about really trying to force it deeper, or trying a standard primer decapper....how do you remove the primer so you can further work on the case or discard it?

I'd considered placing the case in a vise and with eye and ear protection smacking it with a hammer, haven't tried it yet...is that too stupid?
Need advice from the old hands.

NO HAMMER !!!

[baih777]

my process. I do a 2 gallon bucket of 223 this way. 1200cases.
first Lee universal decapper.
RCBS swager
RCBS pocket uniformer
check primer pockets with Ballistic tool go/no-go guage.
if more than half fail the no-go guage. no need to check the whole bucket. you will know in a couple of handfuls.
then I use the Lyman primer pocket reamer. the reamer unscrews from the handle.
use the go/ no-go guage.
sort out the bad ones. and maybe the lyman tool again.

I do a bucket a year regardless if I need it or not.
I do 308 the same way but only 600 in a bucket.

[vor503sm]

I have used the SINCLAIR PRIMER POCKET UNIFORMERS for many years and the edge is still sharp. Great tool (but if you are consistently removing a lot of metal after each reload maybe some thing is not right!). High primer in a gas gun (floating firing pin) is typically asking for trouble. Good luck.

Steven