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  #1  
Old 06-12-2018, 3:12 PM
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Default Safely removing paint from a SW 686

I need some advice on how to safely remoce paint from a 686 6" barrel SW. It was part of an estate that a buddy of mine picked up, and somw knucklehead painted it in black paint. No doubt tge underlying finish is now compromised, but he paint affects the trigger function on a couple of spots on the cylinder cuts for the trigger advance. Any advise is appreciated, I'm not a wheel gun guy and know nothing much about em except they are fun to shoot. Thanks!
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Old 06-12-2018, 3:37 PM
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686 is a brushed stainless gun. Tough to replicate that finish, but if you don't mind the bead-blasted look (I don't), you could always remove the paint that way.
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Old 06-12-2018, 3:37 PM
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Send it back to Smith and they will bead blast it.
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Old 06-12-2018, 4:24 PM
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What about soaking it in paint thinner? If it's SS then I don't think the paint thinner will damage it (grips off of course).

But I'm no expert. Some guy posted a photo of a Desert Eagle here that he sonically cleaned with vinegar and it looked horrible! But it wasn't a SS gun hidden in PAINT either.

Maybe remove the cylinder and try using a cloth with paint thinner on it to test on some inconspicious part?
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Old 06-12-2018, 4:55 PM
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Motsenbocker's Lift Off Spray Paint Graffiti Remover

I've used this on two ugly painted ARs - metal and plastic substrates - works well, absolutely no damage or discoloring to anything.
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Old 06-12-2018, 4:56 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by covingtonhouse View Post
I need some advice on how to safely remoce paint from a 686 6" barrel SW. It was part of an estate that a buddy of mine picked up, and somw knucklehead painted it in black paint. No doubt tge underlying finish is now compromised, but he paint affects the trigger function on a couple of spots on the cylinder cuts for the trigger advance. Any advise is appreciated, I'm not a wheel gun guy and know nothing much about em except they are fun to shoot. Thanks!
Not necessarily, it's stainless.

What kind of paint?

Do you have a picture of the gun?
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Old 06-12-2018, 5:02 PM
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As bnzo said, what kind of paint would be helpful.

Try rubbing a small area with a cotton swab moistened with acetone and see what happens.

686 is stainless so should not be any problems with the finish.
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Old 06-12-2018, 5:21 PM
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Soak all metal parts in acetone for a day at least, most of the paint will come right off. Use a gentle brush and/or medium steel wool on the spots that are still there. Be gentle.
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  #9  
Old 06-12-2018, 6:36 PM
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I know I’m not the only one that really wants to see this ‘painted’ 686.
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Old 06-12-2018, 6:46 PM
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Just to be certain, it is a 686 stainless and not a 586 blue steel with a bad blue job?
Also, Smith did make a few 686's with a blackened finish from the factory.
A photo would help.
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Old 06-12-2018, 8:26 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by DEPUTYBILL View Post
Just to be certain, it is a 686 stainless and not a 586 blue steel with a bad blue job?
Also, Smith did make a few 686's with a blackened finish from the factory.
A photo would help.
Good point DB, they did make some 686 with a black finish.
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Old 06-12-2018, 8:48 PM
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Acetone or Lacquer Thinner will not affect a Stainless Finish. As said above just remove the grips. If the front site has a plastic, insert, then don't just dunk the gun in the solvent. You will have to carefully wipe it off.
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  #13  
Old 06-12-2018, 8:52 PM
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DO NOT use steel wool if it is a stainless finish. Steel wool particles get stuck in the minor finish divots on the gun and will rust sooner or later. If you gotta get that tough with it use the lightest (I think it's the grey) 3M ScotchPad.
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  #14  
Old 06-13-2018, 3:10 AM
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All decent suggestions, but Jesus, it's made out of stainless steel.

That's right stainless steel, there isn't a paint remover or solvent that I am aware of that will react with stainless steel. If you are using some type of weird solvent, just test it on a small piece of stainless (separate from the gun) to see if it reacts to whatever solvent you use. My guess is that using standard paint removers available in the PRC, all they will do is remove the paint.

Oh yeah, remove the stocks before you apply any paint remover.
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Old 06-13-2018, 8:37 AM
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It should really be done by someone who knows how to disassemble the gun, before soaking it in anything. Not all of the internal parts will be stainless.
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  #16  
Old 06-13-2018, 8:45 AM
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is it a 686-3? if so, there's a good chance the finish is factory. it was called Midnight Black.

try to remove the "paint" inside the grip frame first. if you have difficulty, stop. Midnight Black should be hard to remove and if the revolver has that finish it would be desirable.
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Old 06-13-2018, 8:57 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Red Mist Maker View Post
I do custom Dura - Coat finishes on firearms. I often have to remove some older finishes on firearms before I can apply my work.
If it is a lacquer based paint, soaking it in regular DOT brake fluid will easily remove the paint.
Brake fluid is cheap as well as a small aluminum cake type pan to lay the revolver in.
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  #18  
Old 06-13-2018, 9:18 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Red Mist Maker View Post
I do custom Dura - Coat finishes on firearms. I often have to remove some older finishes on firearms before I can apply my work.
If it is a lacquer based paint, soaking it in regular DOT brake fluid will easily remove the paint.
Brake fluid is cheap as well as a small aluminum cake type pan to lay the revolver in.
Yep, I was gonna make that suggestion about DOT3 too. I've never tried it on a firearm, but I do know it will remove paint off ABS plastic Motorcycle Parts very quickly. The nice thing is it will rinse off with plain H2O. Probably the best paint remover on the market... :-)
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Old 06-13-2018, 10:43 AM
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Old 06-13-2018, 2:09 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Red Mist Maker View Post
I do custom Dura - Coat finishes on firearms. I often have to remove some older finishes on firearms before I can apply my work.
If it is a lacquer based paint, soaking it in regular DOT brake fluid will easily remove the paint.
Brake fluid is cheap as well as a small aluminum cake type pan to lay the revolver in.

Strip the revolver down as much as you can and don't soak anything without paint you want to remove.
Lay the revolver in the pan and pour in the brake fluid completely covering it. You should see the paint start to blister and "lift" after about 2-4 hours, but I let them usually soak for 24 hrs., or until all the paint is blistered.
After the paint is blistered the revolver can then be removed from the brake fluid and rinsed in HOT soapy water, using a nylon stiff bristled brush to help remove paint from the hard to get to areas .
DRY thoroughly and buff out with micro fiber cloth and re-oil and assemble as necessary.
Before anyone jumps me about the brake fluid, it won't hurt the steel, what do you think your brake lines are made of?
Also, if you've ever dripped some on a painted surface and not wiped it of right away and found it latter, you would know that it indeed removes paint quite nicely.
I also use this method to remove some paints from some plastic models that I have to refinish, but not all plastics are OK to soak, just keep that in mind.
Good luck with the recovery of your revolver.

So I got some stuff called citristrip, and I have some good brake cleaner from NV. This is tge side plate after a 10 minute coat of stripper followed by a brake cleaner blast. It appears to be stainless, but its got some discoloration. Possibly a worn black stainless finish from the short run 686-3. (Google is handy too, but I prefer input from others also).
Anyway it should clean up into at least a good camp gun.
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Old 06-13-2018, 10:22 PM
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Just paint it krylon OD and cylinder flat black. Be awesome for only $7.
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  #22  
Old 06-14-2018, 7:31 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by AreWeFree View Post
Just paint it krylon OD and cylinder flat black. Be awesome for only $7.
Update:. After getting the paint off the model stamp, turns out is a 586. Blued steel version, so the discolration on the cover plate was lost bluing. The above idea is appealing if I can do it cleanly. My other thought was to just buff it out and clear coat it. Not worth rebluing since it's going to be a ranch/camp/pack gun anyway. Now I have a reason to get me a .357 lever action.
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Old 06-14-2018, 8:50 PM
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The previous owner misunderstood the definition of a "BBQ gun" and sprayed it with barbecue grill high temperature paint?
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  #24  
Old 06-14-2018, 9:08 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by sealocan View Post
The previous owner misunderstood the definition of a "BBQ gun" and sprayed it with barbecue grill high temperature paint?
Looks pretty much like thats what happened.

Red mistmaker, the above examples are cool but way too snazzy for my tastes. What would the cost/turnaround time be on a basic black or charcoal grey be?
Keep in mind this is in no way a collector piece or any other use but a bump around gun for the aforementioned uses, so the more economical the better but w/o the bubba look.
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Old 06-14-2018, 9:14 PM
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Can of california legal carb or brake cleaner. Melts away spray paint. I had a lower I spray painted with krylon after seeing lots of pics of people doing it. Long story short I blasted the trigger out with carb/brake clean since it was filthy and it melted the spray paint super fast into a slimy goo and wiped off.

Did the whole lower with a can and got it all removed quick. I cant imagine carb cleaner hurting stainless. Just buff it out after
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Old 06-14-2018, 10:17 PM
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At this point your finish is destroyed. I would personally cerakote it and I like the OD green/flat black idea.
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  #27  
Old 06-14-2018, 11:18 PM
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I donít have anything to add that hasnít been said, but itís a shame someone would spray paint a stainless smith, let alone a blued one.

Hope you can get it refinished how you like and enjoy it.
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Old 06-15-2018, 10:20 PM
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Send it to Robar for their Np3 finish.

https://robarguns.com/custom-firearm-finishes/
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