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  #281  
Old 03-21-2017, 11:10 AM
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Our bolt action kits will finish being manufactured by April 3rd. We'll ship as fast as possible after that.
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Polymer80 50cal Beowulf Magazines (10 Round California Legal)
Compatible with: Glockstore SS80 (Glock 43), Glock 17 (PF940v1 + v2), Glock 19 (PF940C), Timberwolf Frames, Sig P320, and more! Email us for details info@inlanderarms.com
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  #282  
Old 03-22-2017, 3:45 PM
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Just ordered a second compact frame. Gonna try to Frankenstein up a G26.
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  #283  
Old 03-22-2017, 4:36 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by olddirtygerm View Post
I got an email from Midway this morning with a coupon code for $15 dollar off $100 if anyone is thinking of purchasing through them. OFFER201703
Thanks it worked, like free shipping and $7 off.
I sold my full size ones never got to them because couldn't afford the parts but these look even better so I figured I'd buy one for a project later on.
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  #284  
Old 03-23-2017, 4:48 PM
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Anyone else having trouble installing the slide lock spring? I've been sitting here for half an hour trying to install it; to no avail. I'm starting to get a little frustrated.
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  #285  
Old 03-23-2017, 5:18 PM
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It was a tight fit and lining it up is important. I lifted the back while pushing the tab into the slot with a punch. Once started, I used a small mallet with the punch to seat it all the way.
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  #286  
Old 03-23-2017, 6:11 PM
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Well the slide lock spring is finally installed, but I'm not sure it's correct, as it seems to be sticking up a little bit.

Anyway, I can see that I have to do some work on the rear rails, because the slide is not moving very freely.
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  #287  
Old 03-23-2017, 6:31 PM
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Some plastic shavings could've fallen into the slot. I had to tap mine in with a punch to seat all the way.

1 of my compact rear rails had some rough edges where the slide rides on. I used a file to smooth out the edges. The other one was fine but I still filed it too. The dimensions were fine.
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  #288  
Old 03-23-2017, 7:40 PM
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I noticed that the rear rails by themselves can move freely in the corresponding channels in the slide, and so can the front rails.

The problem seems to be that, because both sets of rails are almost as thick as the slide channel is wide (IOW there is not much clearance) it is sensitive to misalignment.

For comparison, the rails on my PF940 are about 0.052" or so, whereas on the PF940C they are about 0.058", so if the corresponding channels in the slide are approximately the same for both, the PF940C will be more sensitive to any vertical displacement between the two sets of rails, IMO.

I'm thinking about filing, sanding or milling the rear rails down a little bit, i.e., making them a few thousandths thinner, to hopefully make the slide move more freely.
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  #289  
Old 03-23-2017, 10:01 PM
UclaPeon44 UclaPeon44 is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Nelson_2016 View Post
Well the slide lock spring is finally installed, but I'm not sure it's correct, as it seems to be sticking up a little bit.

Anyway, I can see that I have to do some work on the rear rails, because the slide is not moving very freely.
as long as the lock spring is not interfering with the gliderod/recoil spring it should be okay. my lock spring also was a tight fit but eventually went in flush.
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  #290  
Old 03-24-2017, 10:43 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Nelson_2016 View Post
Just in case anyone's interested, he used a ball end mill to mill out the recoil spring channel (which is also how I prefer to do it), and you can get an 11 mm ball end mill from "merlintools" on ebay for $9.50 + $2.00 shipping.
I used a ball end mill as well, a 5/16" with a few passes will do the job nicely and you gain the benefit of not having to try to stand the jig vertically, it's much better milling it while it's held horizontally.
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  #291  
Old 03-24-2017, 7:01 PM
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So are you guys having the annoying issue where the barrel dosent clear the takedown lever when putting on the slide? I have to manually pull the tabs down as I slide the barrel assembly on to clear it. Once it's on there no issues. I'm using a G23 slide assembly and oem parts kit.
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  #292  
Old 03-24-2017, 8:04 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Victor346 View Post
So are you guys having the annoying issue where the barrel dosent clear the takedown lever when putting on the slide? I have to manually pull the tabs down as I slide the barrel assembly on to clear it. Once it's on there no issues. I'm using a G23 slide assembly and oem parts kit.
Not here. Slides goes right on. Did you clear the guide rod recess completely? Maybe a tiny bit left to take down there
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  #293  
Old 03-24-2017, 10:04 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Victor346 View Post
So are you guys having the annoying issue where the barrel dosent clear the takedown lever when putting on the slide? I have to manually pull the tabs down as I slide the barrel assembly on to clear it. Once it's on there no issues. I'm using a G23 slide assembly and oem parts kit.
Takedown lever inserted the right way?
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  #294  
Old 03-24-2017, 11:08 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by vlady View Post
Not here. Slides goes right on. Did you clear the guide rod recess completely? Maybe a tiny bit left to take down there
There is a tiny bit of guide rod recess, but not enough to impede the guide rod. I'd say maybe a mm. It looks like there's plenty of clearance and I also verified buy laying the slide spring down in there. Fits perfect.

Quote:
Originally Posted by MosinVirus View Post
Takedown lever inserted the right way?
First thing I checked was that. I opened up my Glock 27 to confirm the P80 takedown is in the right way. The notch of the takedown lever is being held by the rectangular spring.


I should add, when I install the slide assembly without the spring, the barrel pushes out of the slide about an inch and becomes unseated from the slide; in the same fashion when it cycles a round or the slide is locked back. I verified the distance the barrel sticks out with where the lever is and I've confirmed it's hitting that. I haven't shot this thing yet, but the functions check I did seem to be working normally after the slide clears the takedown lever.
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  #295  
Old 03-24-2017, 11:14 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Victor346 View Post
First thing I checked was that. I opened up my Glock 27 to confirm the P80 takedown is in the right way. The notch of the takedown lever is being held by the rectangular spring.
Not what I meant. The take down lever has a front and back. The side with a horizontal slot in it (a lip) goes toward the back of the frame. Here is a post with visuals from earlier in this thread:

Quote:
Quote:
Originally Posted by BobbyC View Post
I think he meant the orientation of the slide lock lever.



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  #296  
Old 03-24-2017, 11:25 PM
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Ooooh, I see. Let me check it out. Standby.

EDIT: 30 Second's later- WOW. lol I can't believe that was it. Works perfect now! Thanks Mosin!

Last edited by Victor346; 03-24-2017 at 11:30 PM..
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  #297  
Old 03-24-2017, 11:32 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Victor346 View Post
Ooooh, I see. Let me check it out. Standby.

EDIT: 30 Second's later- WOW. lol I can't believe that was it. Works perfect now! Thanks Mosin!
My pleasure.
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  #298  
Old 03-25-2017, 11:10 AM
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Default Is The Polymer80 Compact Glock Kit Defective?

I was expecting way better than this result after reading up on these kits.

This kit was assembled following the instructions precisely but the misalignment of the rails does not look repairable and even if it was, the parts individually don't seem to fit.

I removed the front pin from the locking block and tried to fit the slide but even with the front loose, the rear rails only get part way in to the slide and it binds.

The slide drags on the front rails even before it gets to the rear rails.
I'm sure some honing on them could make them work.

Note that the plating on the rear rails is flaking off too. I read the rear rails were stainless steel but that does not seem to be the case.

Please reply If you have a suggestion or are having the same issue.

The quality of these parts is disappointing considering a new factory Glock frame is half the cost, not including the cost of relocating to a free state so I could actually buy one.










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  #299  
Old 03-25-2017, 11:29 AM
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You should call Poly80 and send them your pics. They're incredibly responsive and helpful.
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  #300  
Old 03-25-2017, 11:36 AM
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Quote:
The slide drags on the front rails even before it gets to the rear rails.
I'm sure some honing on them could make them work.
Is the slide rubbing on the frame? On mine it is very close.

Quote:
Note that the plating on the rear rails is flaking off too. I read the rear rails were stainless steel but that does not seem to be the case.
When I first examined the "rear rail module" that came with my frame, it looked like it was nickel plated (which wouldn't make very much sense if it was stainless, IMO). Did you test it with a magnet?
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  #301  
Old 03-25-2017, 11:37 AM
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Thanks for the tip.

I was just gonna look up their support Email and contact them.
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  #302  
Old 03-25-2017, 1:36 PM
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Looks like the holes for the front locking block are about .5-1mm too high. That's what's causing the upward angle of the front rails. Did you use a hand drill or a drill press for the holes?

The rear rails on both my compacts are bare stainless steel. I polished them and there was no coating or flaking of any sort.

I agree with KoshNarek and contact P80.
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  #303  
Old 03-25-2017, 5:27 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Trusted-1 View Post
Thanks for the tip.

I was just gonna look up their support Email and contact them.
I called and they answered pretty immediately and I got straight to a person. They told me to send in pictures and told me that the front rail was bent and they sent me a new one even though it was obvious that I was most likely something boneheaded that I'd done.
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  #304  
Old 03-25-2017, 5:47 PM
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I agree that Polymer 80 will take care of the issue for him, whatever it is, as they seem to have made customer service a priority, for which I applaud them.

Anyway, it seems to me that if the two holes were off by that much, the pins wouldn't go in unless the frame itself was modified, because the locking block sits inside a tight pocket of polymer that fixes its orientation.

Quote:
Originally Posted by BobbyC View Post
Looks like the holes for the front locking block are about .5-1mm too high. That's what's causing the upward angle of the front rails. Did you use a hand drill or a drill press for the holes?

The rear rails on both my compacts are bare stainless steel. I polished them and there was no coating or flaking of any sort.

I agree with KoshNarek and contact P80.
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  #305  
Old 03-25-2017, 8:23 PM
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That front block does not look right. It should sit flush, looks like the aft side is sitting hi. Try taking all pins out and see if it will sit flat. The block has an edge that sits right on the side of the frame. If the pin holes are not in the right location, the block can pivot. My friend had the same problem. He used a drill press to drill pin holes. Rear pin hole was too high by .040. That caused misalignment with the rear rails. All the rear rails I've seen have been stainless.




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Last edited by davegar1; 03-25-2017 at 9:04 PM..
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  #306  
Old 03-25-2017, 11:39 PM
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Your rear rails look out of alignment judging from your pics.
Again, Poly 80 might replace them.
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  #307  
Old 03-26-2017, 8:46 AM
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Originally Posted by chevyboy10 View Post
Just an FYI for a few guys. Just finished my frame yesterday afternoon, and it is functioning beautifully! Hopefully I will have a chance today to run down to my local indoor and give it a hundred rounds or so. I will give an an update after I range test.
150 rds yesterday w/ no issues! love it.
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  #308  
Old 03-26-2017, 10:28 AM
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Thanks for all of the comments.

I used a vice and hand drill for the holes being careful not to clamp the vice too tight, and carefully drilled one side, then the other.

Nothing unusual in the process and it did not have the feel of "walking" (like when you try to drill a hole without center punching first).

It all felt pretty accurate at the time and there were only a few shavings of the red jig during the process.

Getting the pins in was difficult to say the least. The front block seemed high from the onset and the holes did not align well.

I even rechecked the bottom of the casting to make sure there was not debris left in the recesses in the frame the locking block seats into. It still required a C-clamp between the frame and locking block to get it to seat enough to fit the pins.

I could possibly grind the rear "legs" of the locking block to lower the rear but it seemed prudent to see what others were experiencing before I start removing material from the parts.

Although this has some probability of correcting the front rails, the rear rails seem to be an even bigger problem and short of reshaping and thinning them, I do not see another solution.

Does anyone know if the full size kit used a similar rear rail kit?
Was the full size kit stainless or plated like mine?
Is it possible my kit got the wrong rear rail part from the full size kit?

Last edited by Trusted-1; 03-26-2017 at 10:30 AM..
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  #309  
Old 03-26-2017, 11:44 AM
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Full-sized frame does not have metal rear rails, you mill them into the polymer. The compact is a vast improvement in terms of design. Sounds like you got a wonky one. Hopefully P80 will do the right thing and cover replacement under warranty.
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  #310  
Old 03-26-2017, 12:03 PM
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Quote:
I could possibly grind the rear "legs" of the locking block to lower the rear but it seemed prudent to see what others were experiencing before I start removing material from the parts.
When I put a straight edge (parallel bar) on the front rails of both my PF940 and my PF940C (as in your 3rd picture), I see that both are canted slightly upward (front to rear), just like yours appears to be, but not as much.

I'm guessing that both of mine are canted upward by about 1 degree or so, and from the picture, yours might be canted upward by 1.5 degrees or something like that.

I think if you ground the rear legs down enough to make a difference (assuming that the orientation of the block could be changed vis-a-vis the polymer pocket surrounding it) the two pin holes would no longer be in alignment and the pins would not go in.

Quote:
Does anyone know if the full size kit used a similar rear rail kit?
The PF940 (full size) doesn't have a "rear rail module"; rather, to finish it the builder has to cut rails into the polymer material that's there.
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  #311  
Old 03-26-2017, 12:16 PM
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Trusted-1, did you try removing pins and set front block all the down flush. Then try fitting your slide. You will then see through the pin hole how far off you are from front block holes. We solved our problem by slightly enlarging hole on both frame and block and using a larger pin. As for the the rear rails they are not right give them a call, they will replace them.

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  #312  
Old 03-26-2017, 12:38 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Trusted-1 View Post
Thanks for all of the comments.

I used a vice and hand drill for the holes being careful not to clamp the vice too tight, and carefully drilled one side, then the other.

Nothing unusual in the process and it did not have the feel of "walking" (like when you try to drill a hole without center punching first).

It all felt pretty accurate at the time and there were only a few shavings of the red jig during the process.

Getting the pins in was difficult to say the least. The front block seemed high from the onset and the holes did not align well.

I even rechecked the bottom of the casting to make sure there was not debris left in the recesses in the frame the locking block seats into. It still required a C-clamp between the frame and locking block to get it to seat enough to fit the pins.

I could possibly grind the rear "legs" of the locking block to lower the rear but it seemed prudent to see what others were experiencing before I start removing material from the parts.

Although this has some probability of correcting the front rails, the rear rails seem to be an even bigger problem and short of reshaping and thinning them, I do not see another solution.

Does anyone know if the full size kit used a similar rear rail kit?
Was the full size kit stainless or plated like mine?
Is it possible my kit got the wrong rear rail part from the full size kit?
Sounds like you just got a bad one. Where did you get yours from? I got both of mine from Rainier Arms.

I'm sure P80 will make it right.
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  #313  
Old 03-26-2017, 1:17 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by BobbyC View Post
Sounds like you just got a bad one. Where did you get yours from? I got both of mine from Rainier Arms.

I'm sure P80 will make it right.
Funny story: Brownell's

Pre-ordered and waited, and waited.

Glock store and Midway were shipping orders.
Then I got an Email that Midway was "in stock".

Checked Brownell's and they showed stock of smooth, which AFAIK were not yet in production.

I called CS at Brownell's and said I thought their receiving dept had the checked in their order wrong.

They confirmed I was right and corrected their records.

When I asked for it, they gave me a $25 gift certificate and expedited shipping for my trouble.

I was just about to cancel and buy locally from the Glock Store when they Emailed me back.
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  #314  
Old 03-26-2017, 1:38 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by davegar1 View Post
Trusted-1, did you try removing pins and set front block all the down flush. Then try fitting your slide. You will then see through the pin hole how far off you are from front block holes. We solved our problem by slightly enlarging hole on both frame and block and using a larger pin. As for the the rear rails they are not right give them a call, they will replace them.

Sent from my SM-G935T using Tapatalk
Just pulled all of the pins and tried your suggestion.

The slide still binds when it gets to the rear rails but the front rail alignment looks correct.

From what I can see visually, the front pin looks low and the rear pins look slightly high which would explain the result.

There is an angle on the frame where the front hole entry is that would naturally guide the bit in the direction that it is off.

If the casting was molded with a flat spot at the hole location, it would make locating that hole more accurate.

Instead of using a hand drill does it seem logical to use a drill press with the jig flat on the table and do one side at a time (no through drilling) to ensure the bit is 90 degrees to the jig?
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  #315  
Old 03-26-2017, 2:11 PM
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The front rails are a few thou too wide at the rear. I had to file the rear part for my G19 slide but it fit fine with my AA .22 conversion slide. There was some rough edges on the rear rails on one of my kits so I filed that and then polished both rear rails.

I drilled mine on the floor with light pressure on the jig. Drilled each side and then straight thru so both holes aligned with each other.

There were no other issues I had when milling and building both kits. The full size had a few more issues to address but functioned fine. I ran 150 rds thru the full size and no issues. I ran 250 rds thru the compact and no issues. Neither needed a break-in.
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  #316  
Old 03-26-2017, 2:28 PM
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I used a drill press for my holes but didn't clamp anything down as to not distort the jig. I also used a vise and drill like they suggest and of the couple of builds that one was the easiest. Just like BobbyC explains above, a couple of thou too wide. Front block and rear rails should be perfectly in line or you will have some binding. None of my builds have needed a break in either, even my powder puff reloads with a 19L set up ran flawlessly. Maybe I just got lucky.

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Last edited by davegar1; 03-26-2017 at 2:32 PM..
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  #317  
Old 03-27-2017, 12:35 PM
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I ran about 100 rounds through mine. It worked great for the first 50 rounds or so. After 50 there were failure to fire malfunctions. It appears it is firing slightly out of battery and there's not enough striking force behind the primer when magazine is in. When the magazine is out, it fires each round no problem. I'm thinking it's a weak recoil spring or old trigger. My slide assembly and parts were "surplus" that I bought from a member here and there's no way of knowing how many rounds have been through these parts. Gonna replace those then check back here.

Edit: Words are hard.

Last edited by Victor346; 03-27-2017 at 12:39 PM..
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  #318  
Old 03-27-2017, 12:49 PM
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I put about 200 rounds through my gun yesterday it towards the end it started to cycle better. When I started I would get a failure every round, mostly failure to extract and failure to return to battery so I kept on tapping the slide into battery with my left hand. At the end I only had 1 failure out of 10 rounds. I think another 200-300 rounds the gun will be good to go.

*Yes I can just polish the rails but shooting it is more fun. I shoot this better than I do with any factory G19.
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  #319  
Old 03-27-2017, 3:45 PM
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Well I now have enough confidence in my assembled PF940C frame - using my G17 slide for testing - that I'm ready to buy a G19 upper.

Overall I'm impressed with this product. I think Polymer 80 did a good job with it.

Although it's generally very good, IMO, nothing's perfect, and I believe the main issue for builders might be tinkering with the rear rails (i.e. bending, filing and/or sanding) to get smooth, trouble free cycling.
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Old 03-27-2017, 4:13 PM
shawnmitchell shawnmitchell is offline
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Anyone thinking of cutting theirs down to accept G26 magazines? I ordered a second compact and I'm on the fence as to whether or not I want to go that route.
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