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Gunsmithing & How To Pro, Amateur & WECSOG and Tutorials, Guides & OLL Build Instructions |
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#1
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80% Finishing! Options. Pictures?
OK... My Tactical Machining paperweight is in the mail. I'm stoked. I have my graphic ready, I know what I want on the sides of the lower.
What methods are you using? I have access to a laser engraver, and an actual engraver-engraver. I also have a powder coating gun! And I'm sure there is someone who can do a hard anodized coating not too far from me. So, I have lots of options, and no experience mixing coatings and engravings. So I'm looking at YOU for guidance. For instance, if one were to laser engrave the bare aluminum, then apply a coating, would the laser engraving be visible? What happens when you laser engrave a powder coated piece of aluminum? Anodized aluminum? Will regular engraving work out better for some of it? You have any pictures? |
#2
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My apologies for answering a question with a question. Buuuuut I noticed you mention a shop locally that does ano.
Could you perhaps pm the name of said shop? I have a paperweight that needs anodization
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Slayer of abalone and lingcod. |
#5
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I haven't actually looked into it, but a quick search netted 8 shops in the bay area very quickly. If you happen to find one that you like, let me know.
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#6
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Hmm. Good point. You can vary the thickness of a powdercoat by varying the voltage... And you can plug holes so they don't get powder coated. Do you think that by doing that one might be defeating the purpose of coating the metal, i.e. protecting the (soft) aluminum from wear of moving parts?
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#9
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#11
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Im planning on learning to cerakote, seems like a fairly simple process. There are lots of Youtube videos about it.
__________________
HM2(FMF) Earl NRA Life Member...Are you?!?! Can't wait to be DEEP SEA!!! "The tree of liberty must be refreshed from time to time with the blood of patriots and tyrants. It is it's natural manure." Thomas Jefferson 1787 |
#12
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Finding a shop to anodize after the paper weight is machined can be difficult. You can't leave it there and some shops will not touch it for fear of the ATF ban hammer (real or perceived). I have been thinking about trying my hand at duracoat, cerakote or alumahyde as something I can do at home. I've even considered building a setup for anodizing even though it wouldn't be hard anodized.
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#13
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What intimid8tor said on anodizing, once it is milled it is a firearm and to leave it at a anodizer after milled they would need to be ffl, and even then they would probably want serial numbers. As to mill after anodize, the internals are never really exposed to the elements and the area that is milled on the inside usually has oil on it due to living the gun. Hard anodized metals are usually very insulating, meaning that they don't conduct heat or electricity well. This is especially useful for applications that require the part be used at high temperatures. The coating is also chemically stable and non-toxic.
Additional Treatments As with decorative coatings, hard anodized surfaces can be dyed, although, in most cases, they are left as is due to the purely functional nature of most of the parts involved. They are, however, often impregnated with performance enhancing additives such as Teflon® which improve the part's self-lubrication. In some cases, they are also sealed in boiling distilled water or dichromate solutions to further improve their corrosion resistance. Disadvantages Metal that has been anodized has a much lower fatigue strength, meaning that it's more likely to fracture when put under stress, although this can be improved if the item is sealed. Sealing the item can reduce its resistance to abrasive wear, however, so whether or not a part is sealed often depends on its final use. Anodizing also does not protect thinner metal items from damage like dents. The outer coating does make the metal part thicker, which can be a problem if screw holes or other spaces are pre-drilled. |
#14
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If the 80%er is taken to a engraver and then anodized pre-mill you should have no problem getting the work done on it. Post mill with no serial numbers and no ffl places that do the work.....good luck
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#16
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#19
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I used salt water etching (turned out okay, but it wasn't as deep as I would have liked so I went over it with a hand engraver) then used high heat barbecue enamel.
If I remember correctly, only someone with an FFL can have a firearm shipped to them, however it doesn't need to go through an FLL on its way back to you from them.
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My AR is 7.62x39, so that if/when we get invaded, I can shoot their ammo back at them! Quote:
Own An 80%? CLICK HERE! Kevin de Leon, on minority women and profiling. Last edited by sharxbyte; 11-21-2012 at 6:57 AM.. |
#20
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Wish anodizing wasn't such a PITA.
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Slayer of abalone and lingcod. |
#21
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My understanding is the receiver trigger and hammer pin holes are actually just a little bigger than the pin making up for the extra thickness added by the ano process.
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Slayer of abalone and lingcod. |
#22
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Quote:
What about the post mill exposed aluminum? What about the fire control lateral pin holes? Aren't they now slightly oversized without the additional thickness from the anodization?
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Slayer of abalone and lingcod. |
#23
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Quote:
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#24
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80% lowers have a few other rules such as you can't sell it without it being properly marked. If it was serialized and you wanted to lend it to a friend, then you would likely be OK, I think. If your friend does anodizing you can take it to him and wait there for them to do their thing. Then take it with you when you leave.
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#27
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Have you thought of anodizing THEN powdercoting after installing the LPK and buffer tube to save those threads? Mask off the FCG pocket and blast away!
p.s. I only read the first two responses before replying |
#28
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Quote:
Acetone bath, sand or sand blast, bake for 30 minutes to remove any excess oils if there are oils give another acetone bath, spray on cerakote bake for 2 hours.
__________________
HM2(FMF) Earl NRA Life Member...Are you?!?! Can't wait to be DEEP SEA!!! "The tree of liberty must be refreshed from time to time with the blood of patriots and tyrants. It is it's natural manure." Thomas Jefferson 1787 |
#29
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As for the drill holes and the thickness it depends on who's drilling it, the build parties I go to are set up to drill after it has been anodized. As for engraving, it's really personal preference, do you want the design to be the same color or fill with paint, then sure engrave prior to anodize, do you want it to pop and be shiny aluminum then engrave after. There are many variables to sort out, just know that most engravers and anodizers are not ffl's
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#30
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Wow. $90 to anodize? I was thinking it would cost me like 10-12 bucks. I already have a powdercoating setup at work, seems like this cerakote stuff is similar. I may look into that.
And a co-worker has a firearm friendly engraver in Dublin. Haven't been there yet, I'll keep you guys posted. |
#31
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If you have access to a blasting cabinet then cerakote will be the easiest way. They have tons on colors too. http://www.cerakoteguncoatings.com/
__________________
HM2(FMF) Earl NRA Life Member...Are you?!?! Can't wait to be DEEP SEA!!! "The tree of liberty must be refreshed from time to time with the blood of patriots and tyrants. It is it's natural manure." Thomas Jefferson 1787 |
#32
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#33
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It seems like a good choice and you can use it on lots of other things like knives and whatnot.
__________________
HM2(FMF) Earl NRA Life Member...Are you?!?! Can't wait to be DEEP SEA!!! "The tree of liberty must be refreshed from time to time with the blood of patriots and tyrants. It is it's natural manure." Thomas Jefferson 1787 |
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