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Gunsmithing & How To Pro, Amateur & WECSOG and Tutorials, Guides & OLL Build Instructions |
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Sig P320 80% Insert Completion
For anyone thinking about undertaking the Sig P320 80% I wanted to document the required tools and and steps required to complete the JSD Supply 80% insert.
Tools Needed: -Jig -Hammer or mallet -Hacksaw -Drill Bits: 9mm, 3mm, #22, #39, #40, 7/32 (these should come with the jig) -Misc files (small flat file and needle file at a minimum) -Dremel with small diamond tip and cutoff wheels -Benchvise (not required but makes it much easier) -Drill Press (not required but makes it much easier) Here is how the P320 insert starts: I will try and go step by step to keep the process simple. 1. Insert 80% insert into the Jig 2. Pre-bend the tab down so that they're started before inserting the top half of the jig. According to JSD this step my not be required, but it was simple and could save a lot of frustration or galling of the jig later. 3. Insert the top half of the jig and then either hammer it down until the rails are bent, or I found that if you turn the jig sideways you can use the vice to actually compress the two jig pieces together and bend the tabs. Using the vice or a hydraulic press was by far the easiest and most controlled way of bending the rails. 4. After the rails are bent, there will be excess length in the rails that needs to be trimmed. To trim the rails, a hacksaw worked really well. Utilizing the top of the jig as the guide you simply cut down until the excess tabs are removed, careful to cut evenly to avoid cutting down into the jig. Other options for cutting were brainstormed such as dremel with cutoff wheel, or even using files, but it seemed like both of those options would likely result in jig damage. The hacksaw worked really well and took all of 5 minutes to complete. The rail tabs had already been trimmed here, but wanted to demonstrate how the jig is used as that guide for the hacksaw. Last edited by nubrun; 04-09-2018 at 6:52 PM.. |
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5. After the rails are trimmed using the jig, you should measure the rail width against the frame. I found that the after cutting the jig left the rails slightly oversized still. Using a flat file and stone to carefully take additional material off the rails until the rail width is ).002" or so smaller than the slide. You will need to be careful here though and make sure equal amounts of materials are taken off each side in order to keep the slide centered, and not cause issues with the ejector. After the rails are filed to the correct width, all rail edges should be broke to remove any sharp edges. That include the top, bottom, front, and back. A few light strokes with a fine flat file should be sufficient. Please see below for a picture of a factory Sig P320 insert to see how the rails look from the factory. The factory insert is on the left, the 80% insert is on the right.
6. Drill the holes. As you can see in the jig pictures, the holes are all clearly marked with the required bit size. There were a total of 9 holes to drill and using a drill press took about 10 minutes. Take note that two of the #40 holes do not go all the way through. They eventually will be combined into a single notch for the Takedown Safey Lever to go through. All other holes go through both sides. If using a drill press you can drill the holes through from one side. 7. The takedown safety lever notch needs to be completed. In order to do this you cut out the area between the two #40 holes noted earlier. I used a Dremel with a diamond bit to cut this peace out. After using the Dremel to knock out the small piece of metal between the #40 holes, I used a small needle file to clean up the slot. 8. It is recommended that after the holes are drilled, you go back over the holes with a flat file to remove burrs which may cause difficulty with installation of the FCU components. I experienced that there were large burrs left after drilling even using brand new sharp bits. The frame should feel flat and smooth around the holes after you file and clean them up. If there are burrs on the outside of the insert, it will be difficulty to insert in the grip module. 9.Trigger Pocket cut: The 7/32" hole drilled on the right side of the insert will need to be cut to allow for passage of the trigger through it. The jig shows this required notch and can be used as a guide. To cut, I used a hacksaw (carefully since you are only cutting the notch on one side, the right side) and then used a file to get it to the final dimensions. Due to space constraints a needle file, or small triangle file will likely be needed. As a reminder again, ONLY CUT THE RIGHT SIDE. If you cut both sides you will have an issue with the slide catch. 10. If using gen 2, post-recall parts, you will need to cut off the tab in front of the right rear rail. To tell if you have post upgrade parts, you can look at the Safety Lever. You have pre-upgrade parts if it looks like this: Pre-recall: Post-recall: I'm sure there are other indicators, but these are the ways that I found to identify the difference. And that's it folks. After completion you can assemble the fire control unit, and assemble the grip and slide. Last edited by nubrun; 04-09-2018 at 6:59 PM.. |
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nice work.
Tagged for later. do you happen to have instructions to assemble the parts.
__________________
NRA Endowment Life Member USMC 2001-2012 Never make yourself too available or useful...... Semper Fidelis John Dickerson: What keeps you awake at night? James Mattis: Nothing, I keep other people awake at night. |
#8
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Tagged!
__________________
"A well regulated militia, being necessary to the security of a free state, the right of the people to keep and bear arms, shall not be infringed." "Between your faith and my Glock 9mm I'll take the Glock." - Arnold Schawarzenegger (End of Days) |
#9
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I will be posting one, just need to find the time to get it done. If you look for videos on YouTube make sure that you watch one that pertains to pre or post-recall. The assembly will be different depending on your parts. |
#11
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I am going to test fire tomorrow. I don't anticipate any tolerance issues though. The FCU assembly went together as easy as a factory one, and the slide is functioning with snap caps just fine. I will post an update tomorrow though.
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#12
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You already got the jig from JSD Supply? I'm still waiting on mine to ship. When did you get yours? He's not responding to emails or calls.
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#15
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I got my hands on the one prototype jig floating around. I talked to Jordan a little while ago, and his jog manufacturer is behind. The jigs are 2-3 weeks out it sounds like.
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#16
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I was working on the FCU one last night when I realized I was short the two sear springs and the disconnector spring...
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#17
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I shot 250 rounds through my build at lunch. I had zero issues, it ran like a top. |
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Hopefully someone here can stop me before I completely destroy a FCU or can confirm that its possible and should work after the necessary modifications. Reference: Link to my post in OP’s P320 group buy thread. http://www.calguns.net/calgunforum/s...&postcount=207 Last edited by mcat707; 04-11-2018 at 2:12 PM.. Reason: Added link |
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I can only say that the JSD 80% FCU fits in a 45 grip module the same as it fits in a 9mm grip module and accepts a 45 mag (without the take down safety lever in place). I don't know if the 45 slide is wider than 9mm. I would expect that the FCU's rails would be cut wider if it is.
Last edited by bauern; 04-11-2018 at 3:16 PM.. |
#20
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Thank you for the info. |
#21
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I asked Chris about this too and he said the 45 ACP insert was a different size. So, I guess we won't really know until someone successfully gets it to work. Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk |
#22
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Mine are tight as well. What jig did you end up using? |
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I think if it is really a problem and if it is bothering you, you could probably sand the outside of the FCU until it slides in smoothly. You do not want it to wiggle around in your grip module though. The factory P320 FCU slides in and out very easily but is tight enough to where there is no wiggle if that helps you. I may take some sand paper to the FCU when I get my kit in, thanks for the info.
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#26
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The kits sold in the group buy did, but the x-change kits you see sold in stores do not. |
#27
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Awesome thank you! Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk |
#28
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did anyone try the FCG in a .45 frame and slide with snap caps yet?
There are people who have run the SIG .45 FCG in 9mm and .40 frames and slides without issue.
__________________
NRA Endowment Life Member USMC 2001-2012 Never make yourself too available or useful...... Semper Fidelis John Dickerson: What keeps you awake at night? James Mattis: Nothing, I keep other people awake at night. |
#29
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Hey guys, thanks for all the interest in the 80% we have released. The steel for the jig is coming in this week. The jig works great just as described in this thread. We have a couple videos on our facebook and instagram pages if you want to see that.
The shipping schedule will be announced through email, facebook and our website just as soon as we have that info available. It should be the end of this week. The very first 80% i completed using our jig has well over 1,000 rounds through it. It was taken straight out of the jig, assembled, fired 1,000 rounds with 0 malfunction. I used Tula steel cased ammo and didn't clean or lube anything in the gun. Ask any questions and I'll do my best to answer them. |
#30
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Thanks Sent from my moto x4 using Tapatalk |
#32
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If that’s the case then that can be grinded down with a Dremel or just get a OEM 45acp takedown safety lever. Then shorten the ejector on the 80% FCU insert to the proper length. JSD, if you are able to confirm and test this then a separate 45acp 80% FCU and 45acp FCU Jig would not be needed to mass produce. We can use the current 80% FCU, it would just need additional modifications from the home builder. Last edited by mcat707; 04-16-2018 at 9:57 AM.. Reason: Added More info |
#33
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Is there a big interest in 45's? If someone is willing to buy a kit in 45 from Chris, or will buy it off me when I'm done checking, I would be happy to test fit the 45 on one of the current frames to see if its as simple as trimming the extra steel. I just don't want to be out money for a 45 which I won't keep.
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#34
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#37
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difference in ejector also
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Comparing the 45acp and 9mm FCU insert in this video here..
Forward to 14:40 https://youtu.be/ciXR5re8Wng |
#39
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Quote:
Last edited by get-a-gun; 04-16-2018 at 12:03 PM.. |
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