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Centerfire Rifles - Semiautomatic or Gas Operated Centerfire rifles, carbines and other gas operated rifles.

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  #1  
Old 12-04-2012, 6:55 PM
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Roland Deschain Roland Deschain is offline
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Default Staking the Noveske QD Receiver End Plate

I installed my Noveske QD receiver end plate on my Colt 6920 today and am not having luck staking the castle nut. Following the advice in this thread I tried using my automatic punch at first and it barely made a dent at all. So I switched to the punch kit and a hammer which ended up being less effective than the automatic punch.

So does anyone have any experience staking the Noveske QD end plate? Is it just too hard of a metal to manually stake? Should I just back off the castle nut, apply some blue locktite and call it a day?
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Old 12-04-2012, 10:08 PM
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I have the same end plate and using a auto punch worked fine on mine. I think I have it about three hits to swage the metal into the detent to my satisfaction. try again? Maybe it got heat treated and is harder than mine?
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Old 12-05-2012, 1:42 AM
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As above. Try the spring loaded center punch again. Dial in the hardest hit if its adjustable. Position the point where you want it and push down until it snaps. Do not move the point and do it again a few more times. You should end up with a nice little circular divot on the end plate that displaces a little metal into the castle nut notch. It won't look like a factory stake job, but will work equally as well. Do it in 2 places on the nut.
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Old 12-05-2012, 1:45 AM
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I do it old school and just use a standard center punch and brass hammer.
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Old 12-05-2012, 1:42 PM
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i used a flat head screw driver and a hammer. a couple of good wacks and it was gtg
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Old 12-05-2012, 3:07 PM
tanakasan tanakasan is offline
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I have a Starrett auto punch that is _stout_ and a General that is a wimp.

The Starrett will knock you fillings loose when you use it and turn up a serious dent, especially if you strike it multiple times.

Or just use an old school center punch. Sharpen it a bit to the pointy side, the shallow tip angle that typically comes standard for drill starting purposes is too flat.

Robert
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Old 12-05-2012, 6:28 PM
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Thanks for the tips guys. My automatic punch is a General also and it was my dad's so who knows how old it is. In any case I stopped at Home Depot on the way home and bought a manual punch with a sharper point. Went to town on it with the hammer and it worked like a charm
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Old 12-05-2012, 6:49 PM
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I use an automatic punch from harbor freight. First punch makes a small mark then just keep hitting it in the same spot until I get the staking I want.
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Old 12-05-2012, 6:54 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Intimid8tor View Post
I use an automatic punch from harbor freight. First punch makes a small mark then just keep hitting it in the same spot until I get the staking I want.
Ya I had my automatic punch twisted down to the hardest setting and pushed it over and over but it never did anything other than make a small starter dimple (which ended up working well when I switched to the manual punch and hammer). I had to go to town with the hammer so
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Old 12-05-2012, 7:20 PM
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I pretty much only use Noveske QD plates. They seem harder than all the others to me. Anyway I stake mine with a sharp punch and a hammer. I find those spring loaded punches to be too weak. I set my lower on the bench, push it up to the back wall then punch it. With the punch being sharp it holds it in place before the hit. Also I put the stock on and slide it all the way up along with taping it up with electrical tape to prevent any unwanted scratches if I were to slip. I have yet to slip. Here is an example of mine-
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