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  #81  
Old 11-26-2012, 10:48 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by vorra65 View Post
Yes let us know how you come out on this. I purchased from him on the 15th, no trimmer yet-but no email either. My money was transferred to his acct. so maybe it's just taking an inordinate amount of time to get to me.
I've been in contact with him via email. He had a lot going on during turkey week. He said he'd be shipping mine ASAP. Yours, likely, as well.


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  #82  
Old 11-27-2012, 4:54 AM
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I emailed him last night, had a response this AM. If I send him F/L resized cases, he will make a .303 & .30-30 for me! $40 each.
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  #83  
Old 11-30-2012, 4:47 PM
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I'm not going to add more pics... but I got mine in the mail today. OUTSTANDING product. I got mine in .223 Remington.

It came just as the one in the OP. I used it to trim about 10 cases after adjusting it. PERFECT trim. Every one of them came out pretty much exactly to 1.753". Some might have been 1.7525 or 1.7535, but when you're getting to 10,000ths of an inch, I think you're a bit too specific. At that point, I'll just blame my calipers. I'm thinking these may become Christmas gifts for reloading buddies.
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  #84  
Old 11-30-2012, 5:30 PM
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I'm a hot rodder, not a stranger to a mill or lathe. this is a nice product I wouldn't think twice about trying to make for $45. It's a steal at that price. He ought to double it or more.
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  #85  
Old 11-30-2012, 9:35 PM
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These are Great! I have 5,000 trimmed on mine all ready and its still perfect!
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  #86  
Old 11-30-2012, 10:36 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by johnny1290 View Post
I'm a hot rodder, not a stranger to a mill or lathe. this is a nice product I wouldn't think twice about trying to make for $45. It's a steal at that price. He ought to double it or more.
Don't give him any ideas, now!

I just did another 100 cases. Decided to kind of bind the drill to the bench with one of those Irwin clamps. Worked decently enough.
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  #87  
Old 12-04-2012, 6:13 AM
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I am still waiting on my cutter. The seller has been emailing me back and forth regarding choosing parts so I can build my own powered trimmer. I just got an email stating that they had a theft, but are due to get their new batch of cutters in today and he will ship tomorrow. He also said he is behind due to having so many orders and will not take new orders until January.

All of the reviews of his product are great. It is a simple design that some of us could probably make, but he already has done the hard work and it is faster and easier to pay him a fair price.

It looks like he is going to throw in a little bonus for me, due to the shipment being so late and also to avoid dealing with Paypal again. Hopefully it will all go down as he says. I don't have a reason to doubt him at this point. I hope he gets a website and payment option setup soon, for his own benefit. I have seen other small suppliers end up over their head (freakshow?) If this cutter works as well as others claim, I could see myself ordering a couple more for 30-06 and 30-30.
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  #88  
Old 12-04-2012, 8:51 AM
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Default Considered the CTS, went with the WFT

I looked at this thread and the review before I made my purchase. I agree that the CTS is an improvement over the PH trimmer, but I feel the WFT is superior in all cases.

http://www.littlecrowgunworks.com/wft.html

Here's why I prefer the WFT:

1) The case is inserted into a holder that rides on a bearing. There is less twisting against your hand and less likelyhood of the case getting wrenched in your fingers.

2) The WFT shellholder is aluminum and does not twist on the casing, thereby reducing the propensity for wear and ultimately non-concentric trimming as the polymer material wears.

3) The polymer shellholder on the CTS could become impregnated with brass shavings, possibly rendering it useless.

4) As the WFT shellholder does not twist on the brass, it does not leave a line.

5) and maybe the most important. You can order the WFT today from several different places and it's IN STOCK!!!

I started last week using the WFT. I set it up off one master case, and went to work. Trimmed and checked the length on each of the first five, no variance from the set trimming length. I then trimmed and checked every tenth shell, same result. Then I trimmed fifty and spot checked at random after finishing 50, same results. Last night I trimmed 100 shells in about 15 minutes. After a quick deburr and chamfer session using my new station http://www.calguns.net/calgunforum/s...d.php?t=651921, I started a final QC on my fully prepped brass using my Wilson Case Gauge.

Every one is trimmed to the exact same length!
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  #89  
Old 12-11-2012, 9:06 PM
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Has anyone received a trimmer they purchased recently? I bought one on Nov 28 and still haven't received it. I messaged him through eBay but have yet to hear back.
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  #90  
Old 12-11-2012, 9:20 PM
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I ordered before you and still don't have mine. I just sent Jim an email tonight. On Dec. 4th, he said he expected them to start going out on Dec. 5th, assuming his new order of parts came in as his tracking numbers indicated. He usually responds within a day to my emails, I haven't been using ebay to contact him. He seems like a decent guy, but I am getting a little concerned that we are still waiting. Others did report a couple week wait as well, though.

I got a PM from another guy here, can't remember the name right now, saying that he is building a dedicated electric trimmer with the cts cutter as well. I will post pics of mine as I work on it. I got my motor today. It was only $19 for a surplus motor and then I bought a run cap for it and an electric fan to keep it cool. I am trying to build a poor mans Giraurd trimmer, but with the CTS. Right now I just need the CTS and adapter so I can get started on my project. My brother and I have guns that are hungry for 223 and 5.56 and it all needs to be run through a trimmer.
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  #91  
Old 12-11-2012, 9:33 PM
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I received mine (obviously). We'd been in correspondence. I asked him if I could order another, but he said he wasn't going to sell any until after Christmas so that he could send out the already existing orders. I suspect he's working on yours right now.


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  #92  
Old 12-11-2012, 10:47 PM
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I'm also building an electric setup for the cts trimmer and have been following this thread closely. The schematic I was sent by Jim seems to be different from the one he showed on his eBay thread. I've got my motor mounted to an aluminum plate and have many of the other parts ready to go, awaiting the trimmer and adapter in order to build everything else correctly. I ordered my trimmer on 11/30 and initially spoke to Jim but have recently left him alone. Most buyers seem to have had 2 week wait times, so I'm giving him a few more days. Anyway, I'm down to trade notes until then. Below is a picture of what I've put together so far. ImageUploadedByTapatalk1355298425.062936.jpg
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  #93  
Old 12-12-2012, 12:49 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Tru3_Blu3 View Post
I'm also building an electric setup for the cts trimmer and have been following this thread closely. ....Below is a picture of what I've put together so far. Attachment 184358
Can I ask where you guys got the motors? This sounds better than using drills with clamps on the trigger.
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  #94  
Old 12-12-2012, 1:52 PM
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I bought a brand new Dayton 4M222D from Zorotools.com. I used a coupon (google it) and got my motor for $108 with free shipping. Mine was on the more expensive end, not really all that cost efficient but I wanted to try and make something pretty slick. You can buy a used motor for $20-40 plus another $20-30 shipping. You would probably need a little more electrical knowledge with a surplus motor though, something I don't have.
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  #95  
Old 12-12-2012, 2:48 PM
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Thanks.

I also got an update from Jim. He stated he's been ill, but is well now. He's still working on fulfilling backorders, but says he gets 100+ emails a day so he's spending more time answering those than making parts. The problem, he stated, is that they started doing 33 different models. So to all of those still waiting, hang tight. I really think he didn't expect this to take off as quickly as it did.
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  #96  
Old 12-12-2012, 3:49 PM
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I ended up with a double shaft motor to find the specs I wanted. I may have to add a thrust bearing since the shaft will see force on the end. I will trim the shaft if needed. I also bought a run cap for it (from same web site) and an electric fan to cool the motor, as these motors are usually used with a fan attached to them, that keeps the motor cool.

Motor: http://www.surpluscenter.com/item.as...tname=electric

Fan: http://www.surpluscenter.com/item.as...=1&item=161440


The Dayton 4M222D motor seems to be a ball bearing motor and may be better quality than what I bought, but I can most likely add ball bearings to mine instead of bushings, if needed. My dad and I work on small motors like this for our business and he has done the swap on some motors. We both have electrical experience and I have fabrication experience, so it isn't a big deal for me to go with the less expensive parts. If I had more money right now, I might have just bought that Dayton motor.
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  #97  
Old 12-12-2012, 3:51 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Willwork4ammo View Post
Thanks.

I also got an update from Jim. He stated he's been ill, but is well now. He's still working on fulfilling backorders, but says he gets 100+ emails a day so he's spending more time answering those than making parts. The problem, he stated, is that they started doing 33 different models. So to all of those still waiting, hang tight. I really think he didn't expect this to take off as quickly as it did.
So i take then we shouldn't take this to Ebay customer service to resolve? I understand being ill but if your running even a small business you need to respond to your customers. I've tried to contact him and received nothing. The only way i can find out what is going is by having to check Calguns every day to see if others are having the same problem. It's unfortunate that he is ill but a simple update would be nice. I was excited about this and told a buddy about it. He wanted to buy three of them once i received my order. I doubt he'll buy one now.
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  #98  
Old 12-12-2012, 4:02 PM
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Yeah it sucks it is taking a long time for turnaround, but I knew when I purchased that it would be a couple weeks. That's one of the downsides to a small, custom gig like his. I've ordered holsters and specialty parts that can take 3-4 months to get back. Its just part of the deal that these things will take time. As much as I would have liked having it 2 weeks ago, I realize that once I have it, it will last me years. As long as its a reasonable amount of time I won't have any negative feedback for him.
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  #99  
Old 12-12-2012, 4:06 PM
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I hear ya Tru3_Blu3. I was just getting concerned since i ordered it on the Nov 27th and the money was out of my account on the 28th. So many people had said he was fast to respond and when i got no response twice i thought "man I've been scammed!"
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  #100  
Old 12-12-2012, 4:49 PM
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So i take then we shouldn't take this to Ebay customer service to resolve? .....
This is what I did initially and he refunded me the following day. After contacting him again, I let him know I was just looking for an update. I really don't think he expected this much business so quickly. So I'll give him that. He's also having issues with Paypal withholding funds for 21 days. He has been super fast at responding since we cleared up the issue. He let me know that he was able to complete 50 today and that when he starts listing them again, it will only be for ones that are ready to ship. So I would just suggest being patient.

As excited as I am to try this thing over my possum hollow, I have to give him a chance to do his work.
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  #101  
Old 12-12-2012, 5:27 PM
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I'd be patient. Some guys are very good at the manufacturing end but not so great when it comes to the nuts and bolts of running a business. It took me while to get the trimmer I ordered, but I wasn't really in a rush and didn't care if it was a few weeks late.

It's a nice product that works well. Jim is an honest fellow who will eventually get your trimmer sent out to you. Personally, I pan to order several more and if it takes a while, then so be it.
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  #102  
Old 12-13-2012, 5:36 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Willwork4ammo View Post
Can I ask where you guys got the motors? This sounds better than using drills with clamps on the trigger.
Agreed. My drill has a lock on the trigger which makes it infinitely easier, but it's a really good drill, so I don't like risking its health like this. Still, it handled this last job like a champ.


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  #103  
Old 12-13-2012, 5:38 AM
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Oh, and I third these other posters. You'll get your product. In my opinion, it'll be worth the wait, if my experience with the product can be counted as any example.


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  #104  
Old 12-13-2012, 11:43 AM
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My cutter showed up yesterday, but I didn't get the mail until today. It all looks great and Jim set me up with some other needed parts for my trimmer unit. Now I can get to work on the fabrication. I am anxious to see how this cuts. I might throw it in the drill press just to try it out.

Jim and the CTS products get a from me.
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  #105  
Old 12-13-2012, 12:14 PM
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Thumbs up for Jims trimmer-works sweet chucked in my lathe-your'e done before you know it.
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  #106  
Old 12-13-2012, 11:28 PM
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Forget the drill press..........I wired up my motor and fan, and installed the CTS cutter and adapter on it. It cuts great. My motor is only 1070 rpm on high speed, so a faster motor might work a little better. I did get some burs. I trimmed a few handfuls of brass and put them in the tumbler. Hopefully the tumbler will clean up the small burs. I should try the cutter on a drill press or hand held drill just to see if a faster speed helps the bur.

Below is a photo of the inner workings of my project. I added a stop collar and thrust bearing to the motor shaft to limit it's travel when I push down on the brass. It may not be necessary, but the parts only cost a few bucks for a little insurance.

The fan may not be necessary, but I ordered it with the motor. I didn't want to source a fan later. 5-10 minutes of running with the fan blowing on the motor, kept it cool enough to rest my hand on the motor housing. Some of the animal dryers that I work on use similar motors, but they will get very hot in just a few minutes without a fan to cool them.

I found some scrap aluminum sheet in my garage that I will use to build a box to mount the motor in. Unfortunately I don't have a sheet metal bender, so I will cut all the pieces for the sides and top and I will tack them together with the TIG welder. I don't know if I will fully seam weld the box. My TIG skills aren't as good as I would like and I am also using a 1965 Miller 330 abp sinewave TIG welder, which is a far cry from today's technology. The old timers used to make great welds with the machine I have, but I don't have all the hours of practice that they have. An inverter machine would give me an advantage.

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  #107  
Old 12-14-2012, 3:57 PM
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Glad you posted the link cause if I go to Fleabay and type CTS CASE TRIMMER I get NOTHING, but If I type .223 Case Trimmer I get everything under the sun...
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  #108  
Old 12-17-2012, 1:41 AM
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I started making a housing for my trimmer yesterday afternoon, and today I finished the body. I just need to make a guard to go around the trimmer to catch the brass shavings. They will fly a couple feet away from the cutter right now. I didn't have suitable material on hand for the guard, so that will come soon.

I wanted something that looked finished rather than just a motor that was attached to a plate. The welding, on the photo of the stainless CTS electric trimmer that Jim sent me, looks great. Welding and fabrication are both a hobby and necessity for me. I have done odds and ends fabrication and repair on restaurants, commercial buildings, and work trucks for my past employers, but I am no American Chopper motorcycle fabricator. This was a fun project to test my skills. This was the first time that I welded such long beads. My housing is made of 16ga aluminum sheet. Inside are 4 pieces of aluminum angle that act as brackets for the motor and bottom plate. I welded the angle inside the box and also welded the aluminum perforated metal from the inside of the box. The vent holes were cut with a hole saw and then cleaned up with a sanding drum on my die grinder. The hole for the fan was cut freehand with a plasma cutter and then I spent a while cleaning it up with a carbide die and then the drum sander. the surface of the box was lightly finished with a 2" green surface prep 3M disc on an angle die grinder. The welds stayed on one side of the joints, so the other side panel was already smooth other than for a couple little burrs that popped up from the very edge of the weld bead. I hit the welds very lightly touched with the surfacing disc just to get any soot off from the areas where I accidentally touched my tungsten with my filler.

TIG welding inside an 8"x8"x8" box is not easy. This was my first shot at such an attempt. The perforated metal melts too easily. I had a few spots that drooped through the sheet and had to be ground. On a couple welds I had to work backward: torch in left hand, filler in right hand, and foot pedal (to control heat/amperage) under left foot. The best beads on the outside of the box were welded: right hand torch, left hand filler, left foot pedal. I guess if I can feather a clutch with my left foot, I should be able to feather a TIG pedal, it just felt funny at first.........much like shooting weak hand.

The motor is a two speed and the switch is low-off-high, but there isn't much difference between the speeds (I haven't checked it with a tachometer yet).

I have $48 into the motor, run cap, fan, and shipping on those parts. The aluminum was all scrap that I had laying around from other projects, and the cord strain relief and rubber feet were already on hand. The filler metal (TIG wire) was already on hand from other jobs and projects. The cord, switch, and motor to cutter adapter were also supplied by Jim, and of course the CTS cutter from him.

Out of pocket expenses were much less than a Giraud trimmer. If I had built this for a customer, while working for my previous boss, it would have cost the customer $800-$1000. I could have done the project faster, if I had more appropriate tools for cutting aluminum and a more modern welder. I actually cut the aluminum sheet with my cordless Milwaukee V28 circular saw, without a guide (freehand). The table saw fence wasn't really designed for material this thin and I didn't want to clamp a guide for such short cuts of metal when using the circular saw.

I can see where the price comes from on the Giraud trimmer. His price isn't unreasonable, but it is just more than I can justify spending for a tool that I don't use real often. Buying his trimmer also wouldn't have been nearly as challenging.

So far, my cases have a bit of a bur on them. Tumbling in old corn cob didn't remove the bur. It may not be an issue for loading my 223 55 fmjbt plinking ammo though. If I do need to debur, I can also use this motor. I have an adapter (Possum Hollow adapter) for my debur/chamfer tool that will go in a drill press. I am going to machine the 1/4" shaft off it and drill and weld a 3/8" shaft on it. Then, I will be able to remove the CTS trimmer and run my deburring tool as well as trim multiple calibers with just turning one screw to do a swap.

I have chamfered and deburred on my drill press, but it is awkward to use. This machine can be used at my loading bench and it will be easy to see my work. Gravity will also be on my side with pushing down vs. up into a drill press.




A close up of some of the better beads:




The bottom with the fan that blows cool air up into the motor and out through the top vent holes. These motors can get warm without a fan, but it seems that the motor I bought isn't as prone as some to overheating.





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  #109  
Old 12-17-2012, 6:46 AM
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DAMN that is HELLA sexy! I bet with a different attachment you can make the women happy too! :O




No but seriously, that is nice. Mad props to you for being able to weld. Judging by that bead I would guess that you are a Lincoln Mig man... :O

You need to paint it Calguns gray and blue.
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  #110  
Old 12-17-2012, 10:55 AM
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Lincoln mig?!? hush your mouth! that's a tig or else my name isn't elmer j fudd! ;-)

what, no machine turned plates?!?
;-)
I'm a hot rodder and a hack, but I know good work when I see it. that would love pass muster even in the hamb, and they're picky sobs.

beautiful work sir! I *wish* I had half your talent!

oh and speaking of which, wth am I doing wrong? I can't get my CTS to trim consistently?

I'm using the worst drill I own, I'll grab a dewalt or makita from the shop and see if that helps.

I just don't have my technique down. maybe I'm jamming the case in like a pencil sharpener and that's the problem. i'll try the drill press too if I have time.
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Old 12-17-2012, 1:48 PM
AndrewTannerCA AndrewTannerCA is offline
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Originally Posted by johnny1290 View Post
...oh and speaking of which, wth am I doing wrong? I can't get my CTS to trim consistently?

I'm using the worst drill I own, I'll grab a dewalt or makita from the shop and see if that helps.

I just don't have my technique down. maybe I'm jamming the case in like a pencil sharpener and that's the problem. i'll try the drill press too if I have time.
What caliber and are you FL resizing them before trimming?
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Old 12-17-2012, 5:59 PM
johnny1290 johnny1290 is offline
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.223 and fl resizing but its my first attempt to reload 223 so I could easily be doing something wrong

I grabbed a dewalt. night and day how much nicer it is than that pos black and decker LOL I should throw it away but its handy once in a blue moon.
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Old 12-17-2012, 11:36 PM
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Thanks for the kind words guys. I like my welders the same as my reloading presses, blue. Miller blue in this case. For this project, I used a Miller TIG model 330 abp. It came from one of the steel plants in Fontana, I think it was from California Steel, not Kaiser. It is an old machine. The serial number puts it at 1965 (according to one web site I found) for the build date, but I am not sure if that model was made that long ago. Others have stated that they bought the same model in 1980.

I picked up some material for a chip guard, today. I made the guard and also modified my deburring tool holder to fit on this machine. I will put it together tomorrow and hopefully try it out in the finished state.

I still had burrs when I ran the CTS in my drill press at 1500 rpm. At least I know my 1070 rpm motor isn't the culprit. I was hoping to not debur, but it the few cases I ran on this machine were quick and easy to cut and debur. The machine is also quieter than my little POS harbor freight drill press, I can move it anywhere, and it is soooooo much easier to work on the cases in the opposite direction of the drill press. I wonder how hard or expensive it would be to have an end mill made up with a "v" notch in the cutter to leave a deburred edge, or if it is even possible. That would put the CTS over the top.

A couple pics of big blue, below:
She weighs somewhere around 1,000 pounds with the bottle, as far as I have read and can tell. I had to use a toy hauler trailer to move it, and even though the ramp wasn't super steep, it took three of us with a winch to move it. It requires 104 amps at 240v AC single phase primary power which would require #2 or better wire from the panel. It has an output of 5-460 amps, AC or DC, constant current. I only have a 50 amp circuit, so I can't run it past 250 amps output/welding current. I built a frame and for the water cooler and setup a bypass valve and pressure gauge so that I wouldn't blow any hoses on the torch. The previous owners had it bolted to the top of the machine and the pressure safety valve wasn't even hooked up right. If you TIG weld without the coolant running, the torch or hoses will melt.

The new miller Dynasty 200 DX will do pretty much as much work as my giant welder, and with more features, all in a package the size of a small suitcase. I just can't justify $3,500 for just the machine plus additional money for accessories, when I only spent $800 on mine with everything needed to make it weld, especially for what is now just a hobby.




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Old 12-17-2012, 11:47 PM
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I did have a few inconsistencies with trim length, but I haven't had a chance to just run a bunch in a row. The amount of sizing might make a difference as well as brand of brass. Lengths may not be as consistent as a trimmer that indexes of the bottom of the brass. So far, it looks like the brass should be just fine for my informal shooting. The brass does seem to need a fair bit of pressure to cut, but it only takes about 3 seconds to trim off 15-20 thousandths. I am trimming to 1.750".

I shot some of my grandfathers reloads a few weeks ago. I pulled a couple rounds and found the powder charge too hot. I pulled all the rounds and re-measured the powder. I noticed that the brass was inconsistent and long. Sure enough I had issues chambering a few of them. I read post from others stating that trimming was not necessary, but I didn't believe it, and I found proof of it. Heck, I even had to trim my 460 Mag pistol brass after a bunch of reloads. I only size 460 2/3rds of the way down the case as well.
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Old 12-18-2012, 9:39 PM
Tru3_Blu3 Tru3_Blu3 is offline
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Just curious, did that possum hollow electric trim adapter fit the cts electric adapter? I'm wanting to use a chamfer/deburring tool in it if they will fit. Is the fitting on the cts adapter 1/4" or 3/8"? Still waiting on mine.. Which is supposedly in the mail.
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Old 12-19-2012, 12:04 AM
johnny1290 johnny1290 is offline
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Wow that's a cool machine! a thousand pounds, I approve!! You've got bragging rights for sure.

$800 is a killer deal. It takes a lot of practice to do nice looking work like that. I suspect between you and that machine you can weld just about anything!
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Old 12-19-2012, 12:13 AM
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I had to modify the PH adapter. I found a "spacer" at the hardware store with a 1/4" ID and 3/8" OD that was 1" long, for $1.50. It was a press fit onto the 1/4" shaft of the adapter, but I had to polish the outside diameter with some 320 grit wet/dry paper to make it fit the CTS adapter which goes from the 1/2" motor shaft to the 3/8" cutter shaft. The 3/8" cutter shaft slips easily into the aluminum shaft coupler from CTS, but the adapter doesn't work so easily when removing it from the motor shaft (shouldn't need done often) or removing the PH adapter from the CTS adapter. The aluminum is getting a bit chewed up.

The CTS cutter/end mill is very smooth and hard. The set screw does not damage it. The motor shaft and PH adapter (with the sleeve I added) are damaged from the set screws. I think this creates a bur that then scratches the aluminum adapter. A tool steel coupler might be in order to convert the 1/2" motor shaft to a 3/8" female socket for the tools.

It seems that either my motor or the aluminum coupler is out of round a bit. I have a slight vibration to the unit, however it works great. I will probably put a run out dial indicator on the motor shaft to see which one is the culprit. The CTS cutter appears to spin evenly in my drill press, so that is great to know.

The guard, that I added, works very well. The part welded to the housing is 2" tubing and the tall part is 2" pipe, both aluminum. The outer part has a set screw to keep it from vibrating, which is the same size as the set screws on the CTS products. It keeps my hands from accidentally hitting the cutter and I can rest my hand on the edge of the pipe if I want to. The height does not interfere with using the cutter or deburring tools. The brass shavings stay in the guard rather than all over the bench, but they vibrate under the guard since my sheet metal top is slightly warped from welding on the center section for the guard. I may add a piece of felt to the bottom of the guard to keep the shavings in.

I made a felt washer which I used between the aluminum adapter/motor shaft/sheet metal top to keep the shavings from falling down next to the shaft and into the motor. Jim set me up with a couple PTFE or similar washers, but my motor isn't exactly perpendicular to the warped top, and the adapter only rode on one side of the washer, plus it made noise when it rubbed. The felt works great.

Here are a few pics of how it can be setup:









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Old 12-19-2012, 12:54 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by johnny1290 View Post
Wow that's a cool machine! a thousand pounds, I approve!! You've got bragging rights for sure.

$800 is a killer deal. It takes a lot of practice to do nice looking work like that. I suspect between you and that machine you can weld just about anything!
I would like to say I could weld anything, but I have a feeling it would still take me many hours of practice to be good enough to get any certs (not that I have a use for them). This is the first aluminum project that has turned out so great. I was really surprised when I ran the third bead on the box and saw such great results. The first bead was in horizontal position (much harder) and the rest were in the flat position. My past projects were just 1-2" welds for repairs or small projects. I can lay down nice mig welds, and my stick welds are not too bad. I am really excited that this project turned out so nice. There are less than perfect parts of it, that you probably don't see in the pics, but overall I am happy with it.

I bought the welder for $800 but I also forgot that I had to buy a 6 ga cord and plug to hook it up, and I ended up putting new capacitors in the HF circuit and a few other parts. I have also upgraded the torch a couple times. However it was still a great investment.

I did a google search to see what the weight specs on that welder are. I don't like to throw out exaggerations. The user manual lists it at 830 pounds net, without bottle, cables, hoses, cooler, etc. The guys on welding forums said that this welder is a classic that is known for a very smooth arc and is built very well. Miller still sells parts for it. It is like a classic car. They are not for everyone, but others still love them even if they are old technology. Well, I happen to have two classic Chevy trucks....A 79 pickup and an 88 K5 Blazer. I guess it just matches my personality. Today.....errrr.....yesterday was my 32nd birthday. Some of my belongings are older than me, but I still like them.

Sorry for going off topic guys. Getting to practice my welding/fabrication hobby while making something for my reloading hobby, so that I can enjoy my shooting hobby more, has really been fun. I'll save details on my automotive hobby for another thread.
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Old 12-19-2012, 11:05 AM
Tru3_Blu3 Tru3_Blu3 is offline
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After doing some searching I found this guy:
http://www.cadcamcadcam.com/shaftcoupling-2-1.aspx
Apparently will couple a 1/2" diameter motor shaft to a 1/4" shaft. I'm thinking, this should allow the electric motor shaft to hold any 1/4" bit like a db-18, PH adapter, etc right?
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Old 12-19-2012, 2:28 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Tru3_Blu3 View Post
After doing some searching I found this guy:
http://www.cadcamcadcam.com/shaftcoupling-2-1.aspx
Apparently will couple a 1/2" diameter motor shaft to a 1/4" shaft. I'm thinking, this should allow the electric motor shaft to hold any 1/4" bit like a db-18, PH adapter, etc right?
I looked at those adapter before as well. I am not sure that the spiral cuts would be wanted for your application. You do not want the cutter to flex. Those are made to couple two shafts that are both supported by bearings and do not move, as far as I know. It is to fix slight misalignment between two stationary shafts. There is nothing to keep your cutter from moving side to side with the flex built into the coupler.

The clamp vs. set screw is a better idea. If you could find a solid steel adapter with a clamp instead of a set screw, I think you would be set to use the PH adapter the way you want. I did not find many solid adapters when I looked. Some are very expensive as well. My dad has some of those flexible couplers for the CNC Plasma machine that he has yet to build, but I haven't tried any of them to see how much they flex. YMMV
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