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  #1  
Old 11-21-2012, 9:36 AM
Grobin7569 Grobin7569 is offline
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Default Thumler's Tumbler Model B

Anyone using one of these?
I'm wondering if they're small enough to mount under a reloading bench. Anyone got photo's if their installation?
Overall dimensions of the tumbler with drum in place would be good, too!
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  #2  
Old 11-25-2012, 10:32 AM
J-cat J-cat is offline
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They're about 16"X16"X16" mounted on the base.
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  #3  
Old 11-25-2012, 12:01 PM
Grobin7569 Grobin7569 is offline
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Thanks, J-cat. That's a bit bigger than it looks online - I'll have to measure up!
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  #4  
Old 11-28-2012, 9:10 AM
stilly stilly is offline
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I have one. I did a review on it at amazon.

I LOVE mine. It is killer. I can get more photos but mine I pick up and move depending on what I am doing.

Freedom munitions uses an Acid bath in their wet process so I am gonna see if they will share their secret to having such shiny brass out of the wet process they do. MAYBE there will be no further need for ss pins...

http://www.amazon.com/Thumler-Lapida...humler+model+b

Yeah, that is MY red toaster in them picz...
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  #5  
Old 11-28-2012, 9:39 AM
Grobin7569 Grobin7569 is offline
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Thanks for posting - the review helped a lot. I was wondering if the tumbler would do a good job without a full 5lbs of SS media.

P.S. Great Toaster!
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  #6  
Old 11-28-2012, 1:15 PM
stilly stilly is offline
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My toaster thanks you for the compliment, good sir. Glad to help you out. In about two more weeks I am going to make another posting with a NEW formula for wet processing... Well, we will see anyways, but hopefully times will be cut at a minimal cost. Also, it turns out that you really need about 2lbs or so of media, the rest is to replace the pins that fall down the drain if you are not careful.
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  #7  
Old 11-28-2012, 6:15 PM
gotglock99 gotglock99 is offline
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Can't wait to get mine in a couple of weeks.
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  #8  
Old 11-28-2012, 8:53 PM
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if you search on the forums.. their are a couple of threads on this.. but all i have to say is.. SS tumbling is the way too go
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  #9  
Old 11-29-2012, 10:46 AM
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Hey, Cabela's has a sale on these currently, it's $159 on sale (I've not seen it cheaper than that), plus there is a rebate code you can use to get $20 off of $150 purchase. This would at least cover the shipping (For me shipping was $17) so it came to $156.

The problem is that it's backordered, but if you can wait, it's probably the cheapest way to get a model B aside from eBay if you are lucky with that. But why not get a new one?

I picked one up on whim. Had I known I'd do that, I probably could have saves some bucks not buying my vibratory tumbler.

Now to go waste some more money on stainless steel tumbling thingies.

NOTE: I'm happy with my walnut media and vibratory tumbler, but I wanted to try this out on some really dirty range brass I have, and I can tumble rocks with the kids as a bonus.

Just FYI if you wanted to get one.
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  #10  
Old 11-29-2012, 11:56 AM
stilly stilly is offline
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I think that it is really a matter of OPPBJS syndrome...

If I make a Peanut Butter and Jelly Sammich it does not taste as good as my friend's sammich because his mom made his and not me. He wants mine and I want his. EVEN though they might be fairly equal in taste.

I find many times that I like the nice shiny brass look so I WANT a vibratory tumbler to toss my finished rounds in because who wants to shoot a Desert Eagle with dirty ammo? Hell no, you gotta have nice SHINY ammo. My brass comes out of the wet process looking like GOLD and very nice, then it dries and gets a tad darker and I am like, damn. Then I reload and it is maybe slightly tarnished.

Wet processing is a PITA sometimes if you do not have a system. the BIGGEST thing you need to do I find is to get a good media seperator. The ONLY one that is good is that Dillon. I HATE to speak nice things about them because I am NOT a blue man, but they DO make a FAR superior media seperator. Just too damn bad it is huge and takes up space. BUT it is still a great media seperator. When my Lyman cage fails I will start using my Dillon 2000. (that I got for $50 from fleabay).

Of course I do not have to worry about always buying polish and corn cob/walnut media and so forth though.

AND for ANYONE buying a NEW Thumler, check and make certain that it has the HIGH SPEED motor because they sell them with two different motors.

Also, Jewler's shot on Fleabay might be a good thing to buy instead of having to spend a LOT of cash for ss pins, people sell that stuff on Fleabay, both pins and shot. Jewler's shot though is like, teardrop/trapazoidal shaped so it looks like it could possibly do a good job cleaning too...
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  #11  
Old 11-29-2012, 2:45 PM
Press Check Press Check is offline
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Tedious, but I simply pick the brass out of the tumbler, shake the media out of the case, and set it on a towel. In a batch of 150, it takes about 10 minutes to separate the media manually.

The ONLY reason I don't have a media separator is because of limited space I have.

Regarding the high-speed motor, I can guarantee you that your brass doesn't look any shinier than mine, and I use the standard, Model B motor.
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  #12  
Old 11-29-2012, 3:52 PM
stilly stilly is offline
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Well good for you.

I tend to clean several hundred cases at a time and they are a PITA to pick out. I used to spend close to an hour picking it all out by hand. I only run large amounts of brass, usually nothing less than 5-8lbs so that is going to be more than 150 shells.

High speed motor makes a difference. 2 hours now or about 2.5 hours on high speed = about 4 on low speed. But then again, I am cleaning more brass then you. On reduced time with lower speed motor the primer pockets are not very clean at all whereas on a higher speed there is more agitation and a lot more cleaned out primer pockets.
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Old 11-29-2012, 6:10 PM
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If you're processing 5-8lbs of brass in a 15lbs tumbler, what's your water to media ratio?

As recommended, I use a gallon / 8lbs of water, 5 pounds of media, and 2 pounds of brass, which is roughly 150 .223 cases.

The difference in time between the standard and high-speed units is about an hour. 4 hours on the standard to net the the results that the high-speed achieves in 3, but the recommended process time to achieve optimal results on the high-speed was 3-4 hours anyway.
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  #14  
Old 12-01-2012, 3:18 PM
stilly stilly is offline
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I have a Fleabay postal scale and I will put the barrel on and then tare it out. Then I will fill it up to about half way or so with the brass and then I will put in about 2-2.5lbs of media and then the rest of the way with water. The ratio changes. I USED to go about close to a gallon but lately I have been doing about ONE, MAYBE TWO MACHO cups (44oz) from Del taco. Sometimes I will just pour in water until it it about even to the top of the brass, I will get my total weight to around 13-15 lbs though and then put in the Dawn soap and the Lemishine and let it go. I am about to go and clean a LOT of .44 mag rounds so I will get pics and take notes... BRB
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  #15  
Old 12-01-2012, 8:48 PM
stilly stilly is offline
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OKAY here are some photos.

1. You see the full coffee can of brass, that is about 7 and a half lbs of 44 mag. I let it builkd up and then clean it out all at once. I dunno how many cases there are but I suspect several hundred. I have the scale tared out to 0 so we only see what the contents weigh. For the record I believe the barrel with lid is just a hair over 6 lbs.


2. After adding the shells we see it now at 7 lbs 6.2oz. Sorry for the shells NOT being in this shot, but you will see that everything matches up in the end.


3. Here is what the shells look like inside the barrel. We are talking about 3/5ths full about, maybe even 4/7ths if you want to go that way.


4. I just dumped in about 2lbs of pins so you see the weight now is at about 9lbs and 7.8oz


5. I just squirted in a HEALTHY amount of Dawn dishsoap and a larger than normal dusting of lemishine just for you... (or maybe the camera adds weight here...) and now total content weight is at 9lb 8.6oz


6. Because SOMEONE removed my MACHO cup I had to grab a brass container so here is about 8 cups of water, I end up filling this up about 1.5 times.


7. With 1 jar or about 8 cups or about a half gallon added you can see that the water level is about up to the TOP of the shells. I SHOULD have stopped here but I have it in my head that more water is better with more soap. Really I think I read that you only need enough water to make certain that everything is wet. NONETHELESS, Here is the weight after the first 8 cups are added, I am now at 14lb 1.6oz


8. After adding in the rest of the water I decide, what the hell, let's go for the gold, so I now added in a bit more water to make it the full 15lbs and now my weight is sitting at 15lbs 3.2oz. IF you follow the calcs then you see that I have added almost 6 lbs of water so the water is at about 3/4 gallon.
I should NOT have added that second container for this photo session, but oh well.


9. Set the timer to shut off after 2 hours and for the most part things things SHOULD be mostly cleaned off and out. The brass should look like light gold shells and it will be submerged into black murky water. VERY black water.



In 2 hours I will go outside and finish the photos.

Last edited by stilly; 12-01-2012 at 8:51 PM..
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  #16  
Old 12-01-2012, 9:30 PM
Chief-7700 Chief-7700 is offline
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44 Mag 61.2 cases p/ pound
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  #17  
Old 12-02-2012, 12:04 AM
stilly stilly is offline
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HEH.

REALLY, so then from what you are saying, I should have about 460 +/- 15 or so 44mag cases.

wow. I tell you what, I will count them in the morning. This is about the 7th time or so that these have been washed.

So then if that is the case, maybe my DE has more than 1600 rounds through it. Maybe it has more like 2800 rounds through it... No, that can't be right...


Anyways, thanks for the weight/count, I will check my cases in the morning.

To continue

I was in a hurry and should not have done it but I did.

10. I pulled the barrel off about 10 minutes early because I wanted to go watch SNL. SO I pulled it off and started the drying process. You can see a pin stuck to the wall near the top, you will have that and they LOVE to hide amond the soap line near the top so be careful and if you can stick a magnet near your drain to hopefully catch the pins that escape. (they WILL escape).


11. I guess I am lucky to have a deep sink in my garage. Pour the contents carefully into a 3GAL bucket and let water run into it like a photobath for 35mm film...


12. Plenty of water. The more soap you have the longer this will take. Pour out the top layer of water as much as you can and then refill it. This will be about 5+ times depending on your soap you used.


13. Next, once you start seeing high levels of bubbles and soap in the bucket and the water is mostly clearish, you can now dump your bucket into your media seperator or you can PLUCK them out by hand.


14. Closeup of the pins and shells right out of the bath, it really helps if your rinse water is hot or warm. That will heat up the shells and make the water evaporate that much faster when you dry them...


15. You can PLUCK the cases out of the water and shake the pins out for all of these cases OR you can slowly spin this basket (inner cage of lyman media seperator) for about 1 minute and 99.9% of your cases will be free of pins.


16. After my shells come out they start to get a matte dull finish on them. Here they are and you can see they are fairly clean.


17. Put an ocillating fan on them and let them air dry for several hours while you go and clean another large batch?



As you can see, you do not really need a lot of water. I did this with 3/4 of a gallon but I have used even less water and I usually do and the shells come out clean enough for me. After all of this, I found 1 SS pin at the bottom of the 3 gallon bucket when I put the cage back on it for a final rinse of hot water and I found 1 ss pin on the white towel. I MIGHT find another pin or two but most likely not.

It could be possible that I could spin them for about 4 hours instead of two, MAYBE I will give that a try on the next batch of shells. I still have about another 80lbs to process and decap and all.

If you are going to process with water it REALLY helps to decap your shells before you put them in. Aside from not leaving a black mess in the primer pocket a day later it allows air to go through the cases instead of just around them and as a result they will dry faster. I believe science has my back on this one.

Even crazier is that if I am onto something then it might be possible to only have to let these guys spin in the wash for about 30 minutes or so and the water used will be minimal. Like 4 cups or so minimal. But I still have to test some things out. I will be testing on my 9mm though so that I will have plenty of shells to test stuff with.

Last edited by stilly; 12-02-2012 at 12:09 AM..
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  #18  
Old 12-02-2012, 8:22 AM
Chief-7700 Chief-7700 is offline
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.44mag, 114.38gr/ea, 61.2cases/#, 16.3#/1000
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  #19  
Old 12-02-2012, 9:37 AM
stilly stilly is offline
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I counted 464 cases this morning. I imagine that SOMEWHERE there is a table that allows you to get a fairly accurate count on various brass cases and their average weight. Not bad not bad.
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Old 12-05-2012, 8:28 PM
xtrapyramidal xtrapyramidal is offline
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just a suggestion. i have read on another forum suggested using rubbing alcohol as a final rinse to help displace the water. I have used this and it allows for faster drying and no tarnish when it is all dry. there will be a few stuck pins in the primer pockets usually around 4-5 cases per batch. some had suggested to throw these pins away. But if you use a decapping die when you resize you may be able to remove the pins out that way. I usually inspect each case for defects after cleaning and just check if there are any pins stuck during inspection.
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  #21  
Old 12-06-2012, 1:30 PM
stilly stilly is offline
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Interesting. That makes sense but I am not a chemist or metalurgist so I am unaware of what alcohol could do to the metal, although I imagine that it would hopefully be okay if others are doing it. I know that ammonia is bad for brass but not about alcohol, but they both start with the letter A so... Do they throw out the alcohol too or just keep reusing it? They must reuse it or else that will get expensive. AND clearly there is no heating it on a burner plate I assume...

I sometimes fine cases with pins stuck in them but usually I only find pins still jammed up in the .223 brass or small primer pocket flash holes, good for a pair or threesome there. In LPP shells I find that there will be a case or two per batch that has a pin stuck across the hole in the hole. Yeah okay if THAT is how you wanna play, screw drivers fix that. My decapper also will knock them out when I throw them up on the resizer. I dunno bout the .223 rounds though. That might be a tad more difficult (not really prolly, just saying). I usually catch any defects on the press. I know I should not let it go that far but hey, 1600 rounds+ and I am still alive to talk about it so my process must not be THAT bad.
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