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  #1  
Old 11-19-2012, 2:03 PM
whirlybird whirlybird is offline
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Default 80% Finishing! Options. Pictures?

OK... My Tactical Machining paperweight is in the mail. I'm stoked. I have my graphic ready, I know what I want on the sides of the lower.

What methods are you using? I have access to a laser engraver, and an actual engraver-engraver. I also have a powder coating gun! And I'm sure there is someone who can do a hard anodized coating not too far from me.

So, I have lots of options, and no experience mixing coatings and engravings. So I'm looking at YOU for guidance. For instance, if one were to laser engrave the bare aluminum, then apply a coating, would the laser engraving be visible? What happens when you laser engrave a powder coated piece of aluminum? Anodized aluminum? Will regular engraving work out better for some of it?

You have any pictures?
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  #2  
Old 11-19-2012, 2:19 PM
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My apologies for answering a question with a question. Buuuuut I noticed you mention a shop locally that does ano.
Could you perhaps pm the name of said shop? I have a paperweight that needs anodization
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Old 11-19-2012, 2:23 PM
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I think powder coating will add so much material that everything will be out of spec, which means that none of the parts will fit any more.
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Old 11-19-2012, 3:46 PM
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Check out Sureshotprecision.com for ideas for laser engraving.
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  #5  
Old 11-19-2012, 5:55 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by LMTluvr View Post
My apologies for answering a question with a question. Buuuuut I noticed you mention a shop locally that does ano.
Could you perhaps pm the name of said shop? I have a paperweight that needs anodization
I haven't actually looked into it, but a quick search netted 8 shops in the bay area very quickly. If you happen to find one that you like, let me know.
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Old 11-19-2012, 5:59 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Dreaded Claymore View Post
I think powder coating will add so much material that everything will be out of spec, which means that none of the parts will fit any more.
Hmm. Good point. You can vary the thickness of a powdercoat by varying the voltage... And you can plug holes so they don't get powder coated. Do you think that by doing that one might be defeating the purpose of coating the metal, i.e. protecting the (soft) aluminum from wear of moving parts?
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Old 11-19-2012, 7:27 PM
atdski07 atdski07 is offline
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Anodize is your best bet, it also strengthens the aluminum
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Old 11-19-2012, 7:30 PM
atdski07 atdski07 is offline
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The process 1. Anodized 2. Engrave 3. Mill 4. Assemble into working lower 5. Attach lower to complete upper 6. Take to range and have fun
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  #9  
Old 11-19-2012, 7:36 PM
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duracoat

http://www.houtsenterprises.net/dur_shakenspray.html
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Old 11-19-2012, 9:31 PM
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Wouldn't you anodize after milling atdski? You want the pocket anodized as well, right?
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Old 11-20-2012, 5:37 PM
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Im planning on learning to cerakote, seems like a fairly simple process. There are lots of Youtube videos about it.
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Old 11-20-2012, 5:41 PM
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Finding a shop to anodize after the paper weight is machined can be difficult. You can't leave it there and some shops will not touch it for fear of the ATF ban hammer (real or perceived). I have been thinking about trying my hand at duracoat, cerakote or alumahyde as something I can do at home. I've even considered building a setup for anodizing even though it wouldn't be hard anodized.
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  #13  
Old 11-20-2012, 6:42 PM
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What intimid8tor said on anodizing, once it is milled it is a firearm and to leave it at a anodizer after milled they would need to be ffl, and even then they would probably want serial numbers. As to mill after anodize, the internals are never really exposed to the elements and the area that is milled on the inside usually has oil on it due to living the gun. Hard anodized metals are usually very insulating, meaning that they don't conduct heat or electricity well. This is especially useful for applications that require the part be used at high temperatures. The coating is also chemically stable and non-toxic.

Additional Treatments

As with decorative coatings, hard anodized surfaces can be dyed, although, in most cases, they are left as is due to the purely functional nature of most of the parts involved. They are, however, often impregnated with performance enhancing additives such as TeflonŽ which improve the part's self-lubrication. In some cases, they are also sealed in boiling distilled water or dichromate solutions to further improve their corrosion resistance.

Disadvantages

Metal that has been anodized has a much lower fatigue strength, meaning that it's more likely to fracture when put under stress, although this can be improved if the item is sealed. Sealing the item can reduce its resistance to abrasive wear, however, so whether or not a part is sealed often depends on its final use. Anodizing also does not protect thinner metal items from damage like dents. The outer coating does make the metal part thicker, which can be a problem if screw holes or other spaces are pre-drilled.
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Old 11-20-2012, 6:45 PM
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If the 80%er is taken to a engraver and then anodized pre-mill you should have no problem getting the work done on it. Post mill with no serial numbers and no ffl places that do the work.....good luck
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Old 11-20-2012, 6:48 PM
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P.s. I meant lubing the gun, not living the gun. Stupid phone auto type
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  #16  
Old 11-20-2012, 7:09 PM
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http://m1279.photobucket.com/albumvi....html?newest=1
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Old 11-20-2012, 7:10 PM
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Raw, gave it the krylon touch
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Old 11-21-2012, 6:44 AM
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So My Question would be. Can a post milled lower be sent to the engraver or anodizer through the mail?
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Old 11-21-2012, 6:50 AM
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I used salt water etching (turned out okay, but it wasn't as deep as I would have liked so I went over it with a hand engraver) then used high heat barbecue enamel.

Quote:
Originally Posted by BigBronco View Post
So My Question would be. Can a post milled lower be sent to the engraver or anodizer through the mail?
If I remember correctly, only someone with an FFL can have a firearm shipped to them, however it doesn't need to go through an FLL on its way back to you from them.
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Last edited by sharxbyte; 11-21-2012 at 6:57 AM..
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  #20  
Old 11-21-2012, 6:51 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by BigBronco View Post
So My Question would be. Can a post milled lower be sent to the engraver or anodizer through the mail?
Good question. My first instinct would be no as its now a " firearm by definition". Hopefully somebody can confirm.
Wish anodizing wasn't such a PITA.
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  #21  
Old 11-21-2012, 6:55 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ptroxx View Post
How does dura coat work as far as thickness?
My understanding is the receiver trigger and hammer pin holes are actually just a little bigger than the pin making up for the extra thickness added by the ano process.
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  #22  
Old 11-21-2012, 7:00 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by atdski07 View Post
The process 1. Anodized 2. Engrave 3. Mill 4. Assemble into working lower 5. Attach lower to complete upper 6. Take to range and have fun
Wouldn't you want to engrave first?
What about the post mill exposed aluminum? What about the fire control lateral pin holes? Aren't they now slightly oversized without the additional thickness from the anodization?
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Old 11-21-2012, 7:45 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Intimid8tor View Post
Finding a shop to anodize after the paper weight is machined can be difficult. You can't leave it there and some shops will not touch it for fear of the ATF ban hammer (real or perceived).
Quote:
Originally Posted by atdski07 View Post
What intimid8tor said on anodizing, once it is milled it is a firearm and to leave it at a anodizer after milled they would need to be ffl, and even then they would probably want serial numbers.
I can't let a friend who happens to be the owner of the anodizing company borrow my firearm?
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Old 11-21-2012, 8:45 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Scuba951 View Post
I can't let a friend who happens to be the owner of the anodizing company borrow my firearm?
80% lowers have a few other rules such as you can't sell it without it being properly marked. If it was serialized and you wanted to lend it to a friend, then you would likely be OK, I think. If your friend does anodizing you can take it to him and wait there for them to do their thing. Then take it with you when you leave.
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Old 11-21-2012, 10:40 AM
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Pacific Coast Plating in Fresno is a ffl holder. I believe their minimum for type 3 is $90.
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Old 11-21-2012, 11:01 AM
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Old 11-21-2012, 6:07 PM
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Have you thought of anodizing THEN powdercoting after installing the LPK and buffer tube to save those threads? Mask off the FCG pocket and blast away!

p.s. I only read the first two responses before replying
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Old 11-22-2012, 10:50 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by fiferronald View Post
Have you thought of anodizing THEN powdercoting after installing the LPK and buffer tube to save those threads? Mask off the FCG pocket and blast away!

p.s. I only read the first two responses before replying
The easiest thing would be to brush on a few coats of Brownells Alumahyde. Cerakote seems to be a fairly straight forward process, and only adds .001" in thickness.

Acetone bath,
sand or sand blast,
bake for 30 minutes to remove any excess oils
if there are oils give another acetone bath,
spray on cerakote
bake for 2 hours.
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Old 11-22-2012, 11:16 AM
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As for the drill holes and the thickness it depends on who's drilling it, the build parties I go to are set up to drill after it has been anodized. As for engraving, it's really personal preference, do you want the design to be the same color or fill with paint, then sure engrave prior to anodize, do you want it to pop and be shiny aluminum then engrave after. There are many variables to sort out, just know that most engravers and anodizers are not ffl's
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Old 11-23-2012, 12:58 PM
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Wow. $90 to anodize? I was thinking it would cost me like 10-12 bucks. I already have a powdercoating setup at work, seems like this cerakote stuff is similar. I may look into that.

And a co-worker has a firearm friendly engraver in Dublin. Haven't been there yet, I'll keep you guys posted.
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  #31  
Old 11-23-2012, 1:27 PM
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If you have access to a blasting cabinet then cerakote will be the easiest way. They have tons on colors too. http://www.cerakoteguncoatings.com/
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  #32  
Old 11-25-2012, 4:08 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Tjfearl View Post
If you have access to a blasting cabinet then cerakote will be the easiest way. They have tons on colors too. http://www.cerakoteguncoatings.com/
I'm leaning this way. I've got all the things for this.
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  #33  
Old 11-25-2012, 4:44 PM
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It seems like a good choice and you can use it on lots of other things like knives and whatnot.
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