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  #1  
Old 11-16-2012, 12:19 PM
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Default Advice on Cleaning my new parts kit...

This is my first kit/build and I was wondering if any of you could give me your best methods for cleaning all parts. Its of course pretty caked with cosmo. Anything to be aware of or avoid? Best/easiest cleaning method? Any help would be greatly appreciated. Thanks
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  #2  
Old 11-16-2012, 1:37 PM
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Cosmoline is a combination of wax and various other petroleum based oils. It has a relatively low melting point, as it melts at approximately 110-120 degrees. The very quickest and easiest way to remove it is using plain old hot water. If your wife is not home, turn your hot water heater up as high as it will go, wait a few minutes and rinse the parts in the kitchen sink using the spray attachment. It will rinse right off; or you can hook up a hose to the out flow of your hot water heater and rinse the parts in the driveway. Either way, the parts will be clean in just a very few minutes with very little mess. The hot water will help the parts dry, so a bit of oil as appropriate and the job is finished.

I do understand that it is counterintuitive, to use just plain hot water, but it works really well.

Give it a try and then post your results.

Some intersting facts:

"Chemically, cosmoline is a homogeneous mixture of oily and waxy long-chain, non-polar hydrocarbons. It is always brown in color, but can differ in viscosity and shear strength. Cosmoline melts at 113-125 F (45–52 C) and has a flash point of 365 F (185 C)."

"Its most common use is in the storage and preservation of some firearms, hand tools, machine tools and their tooling, and marine equipment. Entire vehicles can be preserved with cosmoline. Notable Egyptologist Dr. Zahi Hawass recently disclosed that ancient Egyptian mummification practices from the third to fifth dynasties utilized a chemical compound molecularly similar to cosmoline."
________________________________________
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  #3  
Old 11-16-2012, 1:42 PM
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I'd never use hot water on my gun parts. I bought a small steam cleaner to get cosmoline off them. Steam works much better than hot water.
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Old 11-16-2012, 2:10 PM
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Chuck everything into a big rubbermaid container and hose the ever loving heck out of it with wd40.
Scrub each piece with an old tooth brush and dry with a rag.


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Old 11-16-2012, 2:11 PM
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WD-40 is your best friend......
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Old 11-16-2012, 2:12 PM
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WD40 destroys the cosmoline. I prefer to carefully collect and reuse it.






J/K
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Old 11-16-2012, 2:23 PM
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Awesome. Thanks so much guys. Any parts that need any other type of cleaning or shouldn't be submerged?
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Old 11-16-2012, 2:36 PM
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+1 for heat gun, and WD-40

Bolt should be disassembled to clean firing pin channel (I have found a q-tip is the weapon of choice for this)
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Old 11-16-2012, 2:52 PM
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DO NOT use water. WD-40 & wipe dry. Also if you don`t know (this is fact) WD-40 can & has ruined Primers/Cartridges. DO NOT use it to Clean/Lube your Weapons...I can assure you plenty Online clean with it, I hear it all the Time.

Ask someone that knows...
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Old 11-16-2012, 3:01 PM
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I used Brake Cleaner in a little plastic tub.

Though don't touch your wood parts with that stuff, or plastic I believe.
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Old 11-16-2012, 3:52 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by SB1964 View Post
DO NOT use water. WD-40 & wipe dry. Also if you don`t know (this is fact) WD-40 can & has ruined Primers/Cartridges. DO NOT use it to Clean/Lube your Weapons...I can assure you plenty Online clean with it, I hear it all the Time.

Ask someone that knows...
This post leaves a lot to be desired. Cleaning firearms with water is just fine. In fact, it is better than many chemical cleaners. Also, while oil might kill a primer, I know too many people who test these things for a living and, oil does not always neutralize primers even after soaking for prolonged periods. I completely agree with the "ask someone who knows" and not someone on the internet. As far as WD40 and Kroil go, many people coat their cartridges with a light coat while fire forming their brass. These are guys with decades of experience.
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Old 11-16-2012, 4:43 PM
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I use water all the time to clean after shooting corrosive ammo. Mostly in my ak74 rifles.
After using water I hose everything down with wd40 then go about my regular cleaning, making sure to wipe away as much of the wd40 as possible.

I like using wd40 to clean a new batch of parts.
Hose it down and chuck it outside to soak for a while....then scrub and dry.

Sometimes I even place groups of parts in big ziplock bags, wd40 then let it sit for days until I have the time to scrub and such.


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Old 11-16-2012, 5:36 PM
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I just spray WD40 on a the blue paper shop towels and wipe the parts clean. Takes no time at all.

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Old 11-16-2012, 5:40 PM
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...

Last edited by killathrilla; 01-06-2013 at 11:09 AM..
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Old 11-16-2012, 8:01 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by killathrilla View Post
then spray with 99 cent brake cleaner from walmart and you r gtg!!!
Don't think it's that cheap.
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Old 11-17-2012, 7:01 AM
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I boil mine with water and simple green, then transfer it to another deep pan that is boiling water for a rinse. Be warned, it sinks and not everyone has a oven in a garage they can do that with.
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Old 11-17-2012, 11:35 AM
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Almost anything will remove preservative grease and oils; acetone, carburetor and choke cleaner, kerosene, naphtha, lighter fluid, charcoal starter fluid (pretty much same stuff as naphtha and lighter fluid), lacquer thinner, etc.. If you use brake cleaner be certain it is marked non-chlorinated because if the chlorinated variety comes in contact with welding arcs or any flames it will release phosgene gas a chemical warfare agent. Chlorinated brake cleaner has caused injury and death when used to clean parts for welding.

I have used Berryman's B-12 aerosol carb and choke cleaner in the past as it leaves no residue. Then there is this product: http://www.berrymanproducts.com/prod...arts-stripper/.

Kerosene, lighter fluids and petroleum based solvents such as naphtha will leave a residue behind.

Use a metal, glass or Nalgene (polyethylene) chemical resistant plastic container and either submerge and agitate the parts, or spray with the aerosol product. Then blow them off with compressed air or canned air, http://www.amazon.com/Belkin-F8E412-.../dp/B0001I91JM repeat three times. Stripped bare steel parts will be prone to rust.

Last edited by Wrangler John; 11-17-2012 at 11:38 AM..
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  #18  
Old 11-17-2012, 6:45 PM
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Simple Green HD pro, it's purple and when you mix it with hot water it eats away cosmo. It's totally safe, non-toxic and doesn't smell bad at all. I've had kits that were caked, I mean like a soild 3/16" thick cosmo slathering on everything. If you can bake the parts, that's the best way to get the heavy stuff off, after that, the simple green hd takes care of the rest.
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