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Curio & Relic/Black Powder Curio & Relics and Black Powder Firearms, Old School shooting fun!

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  #1  
Old 10-10-2012, 9:42 PM
MadHappy MadHappy is offline
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Default Recommended cleaning supplies for Mosin 91/30

Bought it today

Before I pick it up in 10 days, I want to get everything I'm going to need once it gets here. I've already got the ammo and case covered, unless you guys have any suggestions. What I'm having a real problem trying to figure out are the specific items I'll need to clean it. If any of you can provide a list of specific items I should/need to get, as well as the websites I can buy them at, that would awesome.

Also, I'm currently researching the best way to rid as much of the cosmoline as I can, so any tips there would be appreciated too.

Thank you!
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  #2  
Old 10-10-2012, 9:54 PM
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Tipton one-piece carbon fiber cleaning rod:
http://www.midwayusa.com/product/342...03BrandPopProd

Pro-shot cleaning jag:
http://www.midwayusa.com/product/560...2-thread-brass

Pro-shot chamber brush:
http://www.midwayusa.com/product/151...-thread-bronze

Pro-shot 8mm bore brush (this is the size you need):
http://www.midwayusa.com/product/999...-thread-bronze

round 30 cal patches:
http://www.midwayusa.com/product/816...package-of-600

Pro-shot bore solvent:
http://www.midwayusa.com/product/412...nt-8-oz-bottle

You can use hoppes or whatever you want, I just like pro-shot products so I started using their chemicals too and ended up liking them.

That is all you need to clean a Mosin... anything else is fluff.
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  #3  
Old 10-10-2012, 10:00 PM
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A tea pot, a funnel, and a can of WD40.
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  #4  
Old 10-11-2012, 6:51 AM
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WD-40 happens to make an excellent cosmoline remover. That's what I used for my Mosin. Get a jug of it and a few .30-cal brushes, as well as an extender for that cleaning rod that comes with the rifle. Mosin barrels are loooooong.

Also, an old toothbrush soaked in WD-40 or similar solvent is great for cleaning cosmoline out of the parts.
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  #5  
Old 10-11-2012, 7:54 AM
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i just did my 1928 tula. i used a hair dryer and wd 40 on the wood. this is the first time i tried doing it this way. the factory finish looks nice this way.
on the metal i used mineral spirits. then i used a brass barrel brush in the bore, after that i used lots of patches in the bore. wipe down all the metal with a oil rag before putting it back together. spend a lot of time cleaning the chamber and around it. i use a lot of Q tips. if the Q tip gets dirty you are not done. it is fun.
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  #6  
Old 10-11-2012, 11:06 AM
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Vater from dat stream over there and diesel or motor oil from the truck pool, comrade
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Old 10-11-2012, 11:09 AM
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regular unleaded. It is what I use, but far too dangerous for most. Emcon has it nailed for post range cleaning.
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Old 10-11-2012, 11:24 AM
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Ed's Red has worked the best for me, by far.

And if you add in the (optional) lanolin, you can pretty much never worry about corrosive ammo again. I've got 600 rounds shot over the past 3 months without cleaning it once after the first Ed's Red session, and so far still zero corrosion.
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Old 10-11-2012, 11:29 AM
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Quote:
the past 3 months
Summertime. It is moisture in the air that, combined with corrosive primers, makes barrle and gas system corrosion.
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  #10  
Old 10-11-2012, 11:34 AM
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Aye, I'm sure that's a factor but where I live, we deal with fog often. It'll be mid summer, foggy and 50 degrees in the morning, and 90 degrees and clear by the afternoon.
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Old 10-11-2012, 11:36 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by BigJ View Post
Aye, I'm sure that's a factor but where I live, we deal with fog often. It'll be mid summer, foggy and 50 degrees in the morning, and 90 degrees and clear by the afternoon.

True dat.
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  #12  
Old 10-11-2012, 12:26 PM
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When using corrosive ammo I like to take a bottle of windex to the range with me. Also my Dewey one piece cleaning rod and a jag with patches. When I am done shooting and the rifle is still warm I run some wet patches down the barrel then a few dry ones. It really clears out alot of stuff. Some of my ammo is really dirty and some not as much. This makes cleaning at home when the rifle has cooled off much easier and faster.

I hear people say you do not need the soap to clean the corossive ammo fouling and this may be true as hot water will dissolve the salts. However I think of it as washing my hands. They come cleaner faster when I use soap and water than when I use just water. Remember there is more than just the corrosive salts in the fouling in the bore. I have found windex(or other brands) at the range really helps.
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  #13  
Old 10-11-2012, 12:37 PM
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water, for the corrosive ammo salts
boresnake in .30 cal to scrape the gunk out
brush for the chamber (8mm I think) and a handle for it
oil, to make the rusties stay away
some brushes for cleaning the bolt when it needs it (denture ones work real good)
Rem 40x bore cleaned, for the bolt and chamber
lint free rags (car section mao-mart)

I think pretty much everything can be found at a stupor mao-mart
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  #14  
Old 10-11-2012, 12:53 PM
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Ammonia solution(I've heard windex is good), for the salts from corrosive ammo
bore-snake in .30 cal to scrape the gunk out
Hoppe's M-Pro 7 Gun Cleaner(or other brand) to loosen the gunk
oil, to prevent rust
mineral spirits/paint thinner for the cosmoline
and a few brushes for the cracks, crevices and other things
---------------------------------------------------------------------
That's what I've got. No need for tons of stuff. I so far have had no problems yet.
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  #15  
Old 10-11-2012, 4:15 PM
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Thanks for all of the info everyone, this is really helpful. I'm trying to learn as much as I can now, so once my Mosin gets here, I can quickly strip it apart, clean it thoroughly, and take it out to the range.

I think I basically understand now what I need, so can someone make a quick list of the order I should do things?

Because so far this is what I got:
  1. Strip gun apart
  2. Wipe down all cosmoline
  3. Use brush or bore snake to get all cosmoline out of bore
  4. Use Mineral Spirits on barrel/in the bore to get remainder of cosmoline
  5. Clean with bore cleaner
  6. Oil barrel/bore
  7. Clean chamber(use Mineral Spirits + q-tips, and then oil?)
  8. Clean cosmoline from/out of stock(I haven't decided which method to use)
  9. Reassemble

Then it should be ready to go, right? And from there, after each day of shooting I'll:
  1. Pour hot water down bore
  2. Swab with patches + hot water until clean
  3. Swab with dry patches
  4. Clean with bore cleaner
  5. Oil bore
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  #16  
Old 10-11-2012, 4:21 PM
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I'll leave it to the experts to tweak your process, but I will caution you of one thing: if you're going to use water (or a water based cleaner like Windex or Simple Green), you really need to move fast to ensure the water has zero time to interact with the iron and for rust to start forming. If my experience with my M44 is any judge, you quite literally have perhaps 15 or 20 minutes before the metal starts to tarnish. That sounds like a ton of time, but it is not especially considering the number of different parts that will be wet.

If I'm you, I break the gun down and start blasting away with the WD40 or Ed's Red and a toothbrush/bore brush/patches. If the stock is saturated in cosmo, I would work the black garbage back and sun technique a few times too.

Hope that helps and i'm looking forward to the experts comments.

Last edited by BigJ; 10-11-2012 at 4:27 PM..
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  #17  
Old 10-11-2012, 9:45 PM
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When I clean mine I use the cleaning kit it came with. I of course use a brush and patches and solvents as well but I like to use the field grade stuff, lets me know I can get a good clean with minimal tools.
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  #18  
Old 10-11-2012, 10:19 PM
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I have done about 20 of them so far and when you first get it strip it down and do as you have posted. But you also need to clean the bolt as most of them are packed in the preservitive grease. I soak any small metal parts(and bolt) in a container of solvent. Then I blow them dry with compressed air and soak/brush some more and repeat until clean. I also use brake clean spray on the bolt and compressed air. If you do not have compressed air the brake clean will flush out the solvent/gunk and dry on its own. Then oil the bolt. I use Tri-Flow myself. If you use solvents on the other metal and do not have compressed air then the brake clean works well on removing the solvent.
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  #19  
Old 10-12-2012, 12:38 PM
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I really like the Tipton carbon fiber cleaning rods. The 36" can be used from the chamber side with the bolt out so you don't risk damaging the crown.

I also use Sweets 7.62 on the MN's as it does a good job on the copper fouling.
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  #20  
Old 10-12-2012, 5:58 PM
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These are the items I ended up purchasing:

1) M-Pro 7 Bore Cleaning Solvent 8 oz Pump
2) Remington Rem Oil Gun Oil 1 oz Liquid
3) Tipton Deluxe 1-Piece Cleaning Rod 22 to 26 Caliber 36" Carbon Fiber 8 x 32 Thread
4) Pro-Shot Benchrest Quality Rifle Bore Brush 8mm 8 x 32 Thread Bronze
5) Pro-Shot Rifle Chamber Cleaning Brush 22 to 30 Caliber 8 x 32 Thread Bronze
6) Pro-Shot Spear Tipped Cleaning Jag 30 Caliber 8 x 32 Thread Brass

I'm also going to go to home depot and pick up some micro fiber clothes and some Mineral Spirits.

Let me know if I'm forgetting anything important.

Thanks!
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