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  #121  
Old 09-12-2011, 7:55 PM
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opted to go to walmart instead since i wanted to get a box of WWB... they were out of the quart sized stripper but had the aerosol can of the same thing... is that just as good?
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  #122  
Old 09-12-2011, 8:04 PM
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I don't know to be honest but if it's the same brand I'd give it a try. Just follow the directions on the can and repeat the steps as needed. Post some pics of your project too
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  #123  
Old 09-12-2011, 9:07 PM
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... Post some pics of your project too
this is it disassembled before i cleaned most of the metal in gas.
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  #124  
Old 09-13-2011, 1:55 PM
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Talking Refinishing gun stocks

If you want the wood grain on your old gunstock to show its best, refrain from using chemical strippers. The brush on strippers tend to raise the texture of the wood surface and no matter what you use to coat the wood, it looks dull.

Better option is to start with 60 grit sandpaper and strip away the old finish and any dinks in the wood that you do not want showing. Some of the old dents will actually look good after proper finishing. (Gives the gun some character) After the 60 grit sanding, move to 100 grit and sand smooth, then go to 160 grit, then 220 grit. While sanding each grit of sandpaper, you will be able to feel when the sandpaper stops sticking and gets smoother as you sand.

Now get some Watco Danish oil at the hardware store and follow instructions which is basically, brush on the oil and keep the wood wet for at least 30 minutes. The oil will continue to soak into the wood for the 30 or 40 minutes. As the oil cures it make the wood about 5 times harder than without the oil.

Then get some wet or dry sandpaper. (the black stuff) and wet the wood down with Watco oil and start sanding again. Start with the lower grit paper and move to the higher grit paper when you feel the sandpaper slip more. The finer the paper that you use, the shinier the wood will look. After you have sanded to the finish that you like, let the wood cure for at least 8 hours. You will need to wipe the excess oil off the wood for a while as the oil will weep back out of the grain. If there are areas that the oil dries, just put a little oil on a cloth and wipe it off.

THERE IS NO NEED TO VARNISH THE WOOD AFTER DOING THIS. And there will never be the possibility of a varnished surface scratching off if there is no varnish. The wood actually ends up being protected better than using varnish.

If there ever comes a time when the wood starts looking dull again, or if you get some surface scratches or dings, just brush on some Watco oil and wet sand it a bit and it will look like new again.

Trust me,,,, you will like what you see.
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  #125  
Old 09-13-2011, 2:49 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by jaumby View Post
If you want the wood grain on your old gunstock to show its best, refrain from using chemical strippers. The brush on strippers tend to raise the texture of the wood surface and no matter what you use to coat the wood, it looks dull.

Better option is to start with 60 grit sandpaper and strip away the old finish and any dinks in the wood that you do not want showing. Some of the old dents will actually look good after proper finishing. (Gives the gun some character) After the 60 grit sanding, move to 100 grit and sand smooth, then go to 160 grit, then 220 grit. While sanding each grit of sandpaper, you will be able to feel when the sandpaper stops sticking and gets smoother as you sand.

Now get some Watco Danish oil at the hardware store and follow instructions which is basically, brush on the oil and keep the wood wet for at least 30 minutes. The oil will continue to soak into the wood for the 30 or 40 minutes. As the oil cures it make the wood about 5 times harder than without the oil.

Then get some wet or dry sandpaper. (the black stuff) and wet the wood down with Watco oil and start sanding again. Start with the lower grit paper and move to the higher grit paper when you feel the sandpaper slip more. The finer the paper that you use, the shinier the wood will look. After you have sanded to the finish that you like, let the wood cure for at least 8 hours. You will need to wipe the excess oil off the wood for a while as the oil will weep back out of the grain. If there are areas that the oil dries, just put a little oil on a cloth and wipe it off.

THERE IS NO NEED TO VARNISH THE WOOD AFTER DOING THIS. And there will never be the possibility of a varnished surface scratching off if there is no varnish. The wood actually ends up being protected better than using varnish.

If there ever comes a time when the wood starts looking dull again, or if you get some surface scratches or dings, just brush on some Watco oil and wet sand it a bit and it will look like new again.

Trust me,,,, you will like what you see.
Hello there, just want to mention again here that when you sand a stock it is easy to sand too much and make it so that the stock/forward grip etc doesn't line up with the metal parts of the gun as well as they used to, I understand what your saying about the fibers raising up but I do sand the stock very lightly after it's been stripped to smooth it out real nice.
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  #126  
Old 09-13-2011, 3:57 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by jaumby View Post
If you want the wood grain on your old gunstock to show its best, refrain from using chemical strippers. The brush on strippers tend to raise the texture of the wood surface and no matter what you use to coat the wood, it looks dull.
...

Trust me,,,, you will like what you see.
pictures??
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  #127  
Old 09-13-2011, 8:45 PM
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Bakelite Refinishing

Here are the materials that will be needed.


The project that I am working on is a Bulgarian bakelite upper handguard that will be used on a Romanian AIMS-74 clone. The handguard started off with the name "ARKO" carved into the side and the bakelite was dark, ugly, and looked like a bunch of straw fibers stuck together. Here is the original picture, which doesn't really show how it looked very well, but at least it is something.


I started off by fitting the handguard to my gas tube, and then just used the plastic polish on the handguard. It looked better, but still not great. Then I realized that the areas I had fitted with a file were a lot lighter after using the plastic polish on them, and no scratches. Since my pistol grip for this project is pretty light orange/red, I decided to sand the entire handguard with 220 grit sandpaper, and then buff it with 0000 steel wool. Please wear a mask when you do this, bakelite is basically just filler stuck together with plastic resin, and the filler can be anything....you don't want to be breathing in that dust. Here is a picture of the handguard after sanding and steel wooling:



Then I used the plastic polish on the handguard, and it looked a lot better:



You could stop here, but I decided that I was going to use the poly to coat the handguard. Here it is after several coats with the poly still wet.



And now done! Poly is dry in this picture, and there are 5 coats on it. I did not steel wool it or anything, just leave it as is. The late style romy pistol grip is in the picture for reference, I used plastic polish on that but nothing else.



And lastly, do NOT use the plastic polish over the poly! It will ruin the project, make the poly look milky and dry. I know from experience unfortunately, I had to redo the hand guard after doing this a couple of days ago.

Have fun and post your results here please!

Last edited by 7,62x39; 09-15-2011 at 10:56 PM..
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  #128  
Old 09-13-2011, 10:30 PM
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Nice work 7.62x39, thanks for sharing. I started working on a bakelite pistol grip by sand blasting it to start the process, I have still yet to finish the grip but I was planning on spraying it with some clear coat spray paint. Someday , LOL.
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  #129  
Old 09-13-2011, 10:52 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by AIMSMALL View Post
Nice work 7.62x39, thanks for sharing. I started working on a bakelite pistol grip by sand blasting it to start the process, I have still yet to finish the grip but I was planning on spraying it with some clear coat spray paint. Someday , LOL.
Thanks, I know that the pictures don't show that much of a difference, but it looked a LOT better in person before my mistake, especially after the wipe on poly. I'll get a better picture after I redo it tomorrow.

I also thought about getting the blaster out for this one, but I decided I would just go with regular sandpaper since I only have 70 grit aluminum oxide right now, and that seems too rough for this. Clear coat spray paint is actually a great idea, I didn't even think about that, I might try that instead. Using wipe on poly was interesting, the first coat just kind of beaded up since it was just sitting on top of the bakelite instead of absorbing, so I kept it moving until it got tacky and stopped beading up. The next coats went on a lot easier and didn't try to bead up like the first one. It also dries in about 10-20 minutes on bakelite, I assume because it is not absorbing.

It really looked AMAZING after 3 coats of wipe on poly, I can't believe I messed it up with the plastic polish after that It looked good until the plastic polish dried up, and then the poly looked milky, and the handguard looked gross and straw like again

I'm also refinishing a romy dong handguard for this project using your methods right now. I put on one coat of golden oak stain, too dark for me. I'm going to bleach it then start the process over again. I'll post pics of that when I get it done too.

Last edited by 7,62x39; 09-13-2011 at 10:56 PM..
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  #130  
Old 09-14-2011, 9:33 AM
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The main reason I used the sand blaster is because of the checkering on the grip, can't really sand that part. I noticed that if you get the spray nozzle too close to the grip it will damage the checkering but if you keep it far away it will strip the finish without messing up the checkering.
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  #131  
Old 09-15-2011, 8:55 PM
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Updated the bakelite refinishing with the finished product! Also made some progress on the lower donkey dong hand guard. I bleached it yesterday (it is wood, do not bleach bakelite) and sanded and steel wooled it down today, and put 3 coats of golden oak stain on it. It is really looking amazing, and I can't wait to put some poly on it!

Last edited by 7,62x39; 09-15-2011 at 8:58 PM..
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  #132  
Old 10-02-2011, 10:49 AM
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New to site but followed this page I'll show my stock when I'm done
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  #133  
Old 10-02-2011, 11:24 AM
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Originally Posted by Fiftyfivechvyman View Post
New to site but followed this page I'll show my stock when I'm done
Welcome to Calguns! I'm looking forward to seeing your project completed.
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  #134  
Old 10-26-2011, 3:17 PM
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Hi Aimsmall;

Great tutorial. After reading it I cancelled my order for some tapko plastic furniture and decided instead that wood is the way to go. Man that stuff when cleaned up looks really great. I will leave the plastic for the magpul furniture on my AR's. I am totally new to AK's but it seems like a lot of good stuff to do here and much more detailed than with AR's.

This is the kit I just purchased from AKbuilder. I cant tell if the pistol grip is wood or plastic, if plastic I'll just buy a wooden one. I'm off to Walmart now to get all the items listed in your tutorial. Thanks again!!

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  #135  
Old 10-26-2011, 6:06 PM
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Awesome! Please post a pic or 2 when it's all done! PM coming your way.
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  #136  
Old 10-26-2011, 6:46 PM
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hey aimsmall, great tutorial, im refinishing the stock on my 870 into a matching set. Is there anything different i need to do or can i just follow the same steps u did? here is a thread i started on it (http://www.calguns.net/calgunforum/s...d.php?t=492352). originally i was just going to do the stock but now i am going to refinish both the stock and forend into a red mahogany finish.
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  #137  
Old 11-03-2011, 2:21 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by AIMSMALL View Post
Awesome! Please post a pic or 2 when it's all done! PM coming your way.
Almost ready for the poly gloss coating. This has been a lot of fun. Ironically, I initially wanted an AK that was more modern in looks, ie all black with rails and magpul stock etc. (Since I have a couple AR's, I wanted the same look). But after reading this thread last week and seeing how beautiful an AK can look with some nice wood furniture I was converted. (My wife is excited too, because I clearly bought enough supplies to refinish the outdoor bench!)

I was using red mahogany color stain, which is quite a dark red. For the upper handguard I only needed one coat, two coats for the lower, and three for the stock. Now they all match. I forgot to take "before" pics but the wood parts were really gross, oily, and dirty.

Thanks again to Aimsmall and all the others for the invaluable guidance and advice on this forum.
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  #138  
Old 11-04-2011, 6:27 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by emerson-candy View Post


Henry Huttleston Rogers was born in Mattapoisett, Massachusetts, on January 29, 1840.
...
Also within sight of the fort, the first naval battle of the American Revolution took place on May 14, 1775.
did he refinish his AK stock?
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  #139  
Old 11-06-2011, 4:48 PM
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Default AK 74 Woodworks - before and after

Here are my items after purchasing the exact materials listed at the beginning of this thread, with the exception of the stain, where I chose a red mahogany color. I had to stain the stock 3 times, the upper handguard twice, and the lower handguard once to get the colors to match. Came out really gorgeous. My only disappointment - a minor one - was that I was hoping it would come out a little more red.





Here is the before picture. Actually I didn't take a before picture, this one is based on the image on AK47-builder's website where I bought the parts kit from:



So now that I have all the necessary supplies, the wife took a trip to a thrift store and purchased a whole bunch of worn out furniture items for me to refinish!
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  #140  
Old 12-05-2011, 3:35 AM
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Thanks AimSmall, very nice tutorial, after my builds I'm going to redo the furniture in the manner you described. Very simple, and time consuming, but the results are great. Using bio-degradable stripped is a big thumbs up. They sure look pretty, beats plastic any day, even if their not 922r.


Thanks.
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  #141  
Old 12-13-2011, 10:57 PM
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I have the same stock set i stripped them and just cleared them. they look great. i will put up a picture tomarrow. I have seen some done with BLO like a garand. the are different but i think they look funny.
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  #142  
Old 12-13-2011, 11:51 PM
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David RSA, that came out really nice!
LOL @ the furniture comment.

MyMalteseFalcon, while the stripper I used is evironmentally friendly keep in mind the the old finish you are removing isn't.
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  #143  
Old 02-03-2012, 11:30 PM
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which type of wipe-on poly has the best results? satin? gloss? matte?
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  #144  
Old 02-04-2012, 10:02 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by sharkforce View Post
which type of wipe-on poly has the best results? satin? gloss? matte?
I like the satin but it's a cosmetic thing so, beauty is in the eye of the beholder.
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Old 02-04-2012, 12:15 PM
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refinishing supplies acquired



After stripping, waiting 24 hrs, sanding, pre treating, 1 coat of stain.


Last edited by sharkforce; 02-10-2012 at 3:05 PM..
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  #146  
Old 03-09-2012, 7:28 AM
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i just bought a wasr and was told to seal the furniture before i start shooting otherwise its going to get real nasty looking real fast. so my question is whats the best way to seal it? i dont want to refinish it just protect it. should i use a wax, or polyeurethane?
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  #147  
Old 03-14-2012, 1:47 AM
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So after reading this, I really want my AK stock refinished. But I don't have the time or the place to really work. I wonder if anyone out there does a refinish service or find someone locally who would be willing to do it?
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  #148  
Old 04-02-2012, 8:46 PM
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Here is a pic of my RomyG, my sons RomyG, and other sons Polish UF. Just built them on sunday. Citristrip, sanded, two coats of stain and 4 coats of satin poly.

IMAG0064.jpg

Thanks to the OP for the info and the motivation.
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  #149  
Old 04-02-2012, 9:24 PM
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Working on my first stain project on my WASR 10/63 wood. This guide pretty much gave me the information and confidence I needed to go ahead and start. I really appreciate the post OP, very helpful. I will try and get pictures as soon as I can, but right now it has been taking forever for the poly to dry. Just have to keep waiting and checking. Thanks again OP!
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  #150  
Old 04-02-2012, 10:29 PM
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Hey rifles are looking good guys, I'm glad you guys are going for it too, it's a great feeling to put the work in to come up with something you can be proud of isn't it.
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  #151  
Old 04-03-2012, 1:57 AM
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Sweet! Look great, just like new again!

Nice job and it was a father and son effort, better yet!





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  #152  
Old 04-03-2012, 8:26 AM
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I agree, the best part by far is the family project, the boys are so proud of themselves/their rifles, they can't stop talking about it. I am the same way!
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Old 04-07-2012, 11:43 PM
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I have seen a few post's asking about refinishing Bakelite. I have done a few pistol grips and a set of handguards two different ways. I have done them with the wipe on poly and they came out ok. I also did a set with Automotive grade Urethane Clear Coat. On the ones I cleared I used some 600 grit wet/dry sandpaper to smooth them out and they came out pretty nice. These are some really old pic's but you can kinda see the results. I will be doing some pistol grips here in the next few days I'll post some more pics. I was checking out this thread because I used it last year to refinish some AK stock's and they turned out nice and I am currently in the middle of refinishing 3 more AK stock set's and I needed to brush up on the process! Thanks again Aimsmall for the write up.

ETA: sandblasting is not recommended. I wasted a pistol grip trying it out. Maybe my blaster was running real good that day but I won't be doing that again.

BASF Diamont DC98 Clearcoat
Duracoat Combat Black on the gas tube.


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  #154  
Old 04-28-2012, 11:19 PM
HYM HYM is offline
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Before...


After.


stained with sedona red 222 and finished with zinsser bullseye clear transparent shellac

thanks for the tips OP

Last edited by HYM; 04-28-2012 at 11:22 PM..
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  #155  
Old 05-17-2012, 5:32 PM
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THANKS FOR THE HELP AND GUIDANCE!
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  #156  
Old 05-18-2012, 12:41 PM
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Ashy to classy !

.

.
going in this thread made me want to try it , and damn i love the results , great instructions ! thanks man
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  #157  
Old 05-20-2012, 2:44 PM
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Which stain did you use lil jackal?
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  #158  
Old 05-20-2012, 4:04 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by gesundheit View Post
Which stain did you use lil jackal?
Gunstock 231
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  #159  
Old 05-20-2012, 5:32 PM
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Quote:
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Gunstock 231
Thanks. It came out looking awesome!
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Old 05-20-2012, 6:28 PM
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Video outlining my refinishing project

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