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  #1  
Old 10-02-2011, 2:28 PM
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Default Need to hire someone to bolt down safe or advise to help me do it myself

Hi All.

I just got my Costco safe.

I don't have the tools to drill the holes in cement and knowledge on what bolts to use.

I really need your advise/help.

Do you guys/ladies know of a good installer for a cheap price?

Or maybe give me info on how to do this on my own without buying tools.

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  #2  
Old 10-02-2011, 2:37 PM
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I would do it myself, why pay someone for a simple job. Buy a nice drill and a good
Concrete Drill Bit, in the end you have a nice tool and the satisfaction of job well done.
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  #3  
Old 10-02-2011, 2:56 PM
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If worse comes to worse, you can rent a roto-drill from Lowes or Home Depot and use a masonry bit to drill the hole. Check your directions in the safe to see what size drill bit you need and what size concrete anchors you need also. Usually takes about a half hour from start to finish.
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Old 10-02-2011, 3:56 PM
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I am in Concord and have a concrete drill you can use. You will need a bit that is the right size for the bolts you are using. They have conccrete anchors that are made for this at the hardware store. PM me if interested, Sammy
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Old 10-02-2011, 4:19 PM
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Drop in bolts or anchor bolts. I've used the anchor bolts in my last garage after moving and putting the safe in doors, I used drop in so the stud wouldnt stick up if I ever moved it.
I will tell you this. Use PREMIUM bits on a hammer bit. Dont go cheap because they burn out really quick. You will need at least two bits for four holes. I've burned out a lot of bits my first time around and found out the best lube to use is water to keep the but from burning up. If someone else here knows better, please chime in because I would like to know
Go in a little bit, pull out, wet it, repeat. (thats what she said) and clean out your holes before putting your bolt in. I also put a little bit of construction adhesive in the hole before putting in the bolt but some dont think its needed.
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  #6  
Old 10-02-2011, 7:10 PM
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Make sure your slab doesn't have tension cables!
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Old 10-02-2011, 7:27 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Maddog5150 View Post
Drop in bolts or anchor bolts. I've used the anchor bolts in my last garage after moving and putting the safe in doors, I used drop in so the stud wouldnt stick up if I ever moved it.
I will tell you this. Use PREMIUM bits on a hammer bit. Dont go cheap because they burn out really quick. You will need at least two bits for four holes. I've burned out a lot of bits my first time around and found out the best lube to use is water to keep the but from burning up. If someone else here knows better, please chime in because I would like to know
Go in a little bit, pull out, wet it, repeat. (thats what she said) and clean out your holes before putting your bolt in. I also put a little bit of construction adhesive in the hole before putting in the bolt but some dont think its needed.
You must have got some bad bits. I have a Hilti hammer drill with Hilti or Bosch bits and I have drilled quite a few holes on the same bit. Also blow out the dust from the hole before setting your anchors
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Old 10-02-2011, 7:30 PM
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Originally Posted by GMG View Post
Make sure your slab doesn't have tension cables!
Some slabs have been post-tensioned. The slab will be marked in the garage. I have not seen a post-tension slab in CA, its quite common in AZ.

You will see something like this:

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Old 10-02-2011, 8:03 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Synergy View Post
Some slabs have been post-tensioned. The slab will be marked in the garage. I have not seen a post-tension slab in CA, its quite common in AZ.

You will see something like this:

They have become quite common here in the last 10 years.


Don't go cheap on the concrete anchors.
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  #10  
Old 10-03-2011, 5:27 AM
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Thank you all you have give advise.

What is the best Concrete Anchor to use?
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  #11  
Old 10-03-2011, 5:56 AM
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Home Depot is a Hilti dealer and they usually have a Hilti person on site to assist you. Know the size you need and they'll do the rest for you.
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  #12  
Old 10-03-2011, 8:07 AM
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Thx Sammy.. I will let you know.

Quote:
Originally Posted by sammy View Post
I am in Concord and have a concrete drill you can use. You will need a bit that is the right size for the bolts you are using. They have conccrete anchors that are made for this at the hardware store. PM me if interested, Sammy
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  #13  
Old 10-03-2011, 8:18 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Synergy View Post
Some slabs have been post-tensioned. The slab will be marked in the garage. I have not seen a post-tension slab in CA, its quite common in AZ.
I think most newer houses would have them (post 94 earthquake). I am nearly certain it is the code now - else the cheapskate builders that built my house wouldn't have done it.

By the way,my garage does not have the placard on the concrete but I know it is there. I had to sign a bunch of paperwork acknowledging that I understood I had a post tension slab when I bought the house.

Last edited by Kodemonkey; 10-03-2011 at 8:20 AM..
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Old 10-03-2011, 8:29 AM
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Good info.

My house was built in 2000 KB Homes. I will have to take a look at the paper work.

Quote:
Originally Posted by Kodemonkey View Post
I think most newer houses would have them (post 94 earthquake). I am nearly certain it is the code now - else the cheapskate builders that built my house wouldn't have done it.

By the way,my garage does not have the placard on the concrete but I know it is there. I had to sign a bunch of paperwork acknowledging that I understood I had a post tension slab when I bought the house.
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Old 10-03-2011, 9:59 AM
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My house is 7months old, and it has the Post-Tension warning stamp. It's a Shea home
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  #16  
Old 10-03-2011, 10:58 AM
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Always drill all the way through the slab, whenever setting anchor bolts. When the time comes to make changes you can just knock them through and even use the same holes if needed. One bit should be just fine, I've drilled probably into the thousands on one.
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Old 10-03-2011, 11:23 AM
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If you put enough weight in the safe (lot of guns and ammo), it would be difficult to move and if someone moves it, it will be cause they are going to do it no matter what you do. Yes, it will be safer if you bolt it down, but how much of a difference would it really make? If you live in a bad area, perhaps it would be a better idea.
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Old 10-03-2011, 11:36 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by kemasa View Post
If you put enough weight in the safe (lot of guns and ammo), it would be difficult to move and if someone moves it, it will be cause they are going to do it no matter what you do. Yes, it will be safer if you bolt it down, but how much of a difference would it really make? If you live in a bad area, perhaps it would be a better idea.
They are really easy to move(a dolly, or roll it on anything round) or even break into if not bolted down. Burglars tend to grab what they can quickly, a bolted down safe is not remotely quick to remove.
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Old 10-03-2011, 11:38 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by kemasa View Post
If you put enough weight in the safe (lot of guns and ammo), it would be difficult to move and if someone moves it, it will be cause they are going to do it no matter what you do. Yes, it will be safer if you bolt it down, but how much of a difference would it really make? If you live in a bad area, perhaps it would be a better idea.
Because of my post tension slab, that was what I was forced to do. My safe weighs around 1300lbs empty. I keep as much ammo as I can afford in it to help weigh it down. My guess is it is pushing 2000lbs at this point. I'm pretty sure I can knock it over, but thieves would have to move a lot of stuff to get the safe out of the garage. Not impossible, but the garage is alarmed and we have private security on my street. Couple that with a pretty good neighborhood watch with people that are home during the day and I feel pretty secure about it. Not going to stop a really determined criminal, but it is the best I can do given my limitations.

Bolting down a safe doesn't guarantee anything either. If they can get leverage on a tall safe they can snap the bolts off.
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Old 10-03-2011, 11:46 AM
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Originally Posted by ivsamhell View Post
They are really easy to move(a dolly, or roll it on anything round) or even break into if not bolted down. Burglars tend to grab what they can quickly, a bolted down safe is not remotely quick to remove.
Yes, easy to move IF you have the equipment, which means planning. A bolted down safe is easy to deal with by convincing the owner to open it, if that is what the criminals decide to do.

The criminals would need a vehicle big enough to carry the safe, enough people to load it on the vehicle or a lift gate, etc. I suppose they could just hire movers to empty the house while you are at work :-).

A heavy safe is not quick to remove even if it is not bolted down.
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Old 10-03-2011, 11:48 AM
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Didn't someone just post that a neighboors safe (not bolted down) weighing 1200lbs was stolen from with in the home.

True if they want it, they can take but dang it I'm not going to make it easy for them.

Last edited by SB23hater; 10-03-2011 at 11:56 AM..
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Old 10-03-2011, 1:30 PM
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In a similar thread, someone mentioned using epoxy to hold a safe down to concrete. Would work especially well for a post-tensioned slab.
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  #23  
Old 10-03-2011, 1:48 PM
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Originally Posted by Casual_Shooter View Post
In a similar thread, someone mentioned using epoxy to hold a safe down to concrete. Would work especially well for a post-tensioned slab.
If you are on a post-tension slab, I would drill through the back of the safe and lag it into the wall studs.
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Old 10-03-2011, 3:09 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Synergy View Post
You must have got some bad bits. I have a Hilti hammer drill with Hilti or Bosch bits and I have drilled quite a few holes on the same bit. Also blow out the dust from the hole before setting your anchors
I used bosch bits. The first bit I ever used burned out quick then the second I tried an oil and it burned out fast. Then I used water and they started lasting. Maybe I was just doing something wrong
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Old 10-03-2011, 3:32 PM
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What if your renting in an apartment, then what?


Ill just pull the carpet up and drill, put the carpet down when i leave, lol.

What happens if you drill into post-tensioned?
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Old 10-03-2011, 3:48 PM
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What happens if you drill into post-tensioned?
Bad things if you hit one of the tension wires. Death could be a consequence, at least as far as the paper I signed when I bought the house.
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Old 10-03-2011, 4:06 PM
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I used to install safes in Livermore, if you do end up paying someone to do don't brag about whats going in it.

I don't have enough appendages to keep count of all the dumb***** people who would brag about their gun collection, $100,000 cash, diamonds, or what ever valuable was going into the safe to the guys who knew where it was and how to get it out.

Not that you would, just general advice.
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Old 10-03-2011, 6:20 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Maddog5150 View Post
I used bosch bits. The first bit I ever used burned out quick then the second I tried an oil and it burned out fast. Then I used water and they started lasting. Maybe I was just doing something wrong
Usually a bosch bit will last quite awhile with a good hammer drill. What type of hammer drill did you use?
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Old 10-03-2011, 7:01 PM
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Usually a bosch bit will last quite awhile with a good hammer drill. What type of hammer drill did you use?
Beat me to the question. Is it an actual hammer drill that uses a SDS or Spline shank bit or is it a standard shank that you use in your 18v Dewalt on hammer mode?

The concrete is tensioned around 33,000 lbs, if you were to sever the cable, it would snap through the slab and could slice you like a hot knife through butter.

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Old 10-03-2011, 7:44 PM
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The concrete is tensioned around 33,000 lbs, if you were to sever the cable, it would snap through the slab and could slice you like a hot knife through butter.
Scary thought. Those tensioned cables remind me of this...

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Old 10-03-2011, 7:54 PM
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I used bosch bits. The first bit I ever used burned out quick then the second I tried an oil and it burned out fast. Then I used water and they started lasting. Maybe I was just doing something wrong
Most likely you were doing something wrong. I have drilled thousands upon thousands of holes(even in post tension) and these bits are made to take abuse, and should last 100's of holes if not more.
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Old 10-03-2011, 7:56 PM
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I have same Safe,and I bought this cheap hammer drill from amazon http://www.amazon.com/Porter-Cable-P...7700574&sr=8-1
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Old 10-03-2011, 9:48 PM
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If your just on the neighborhood I will mount it for you, I have the proper drill and anchors for mounting on concrete or wall studs.
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Old 10-03-2011, 10:57 PM
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It was a ryobi hammer drill. I would go a little at a time and then cool off the bit. I would like to know what is up with it so I know for next time
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Old 10-03-2011, 11:45 PM
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Bolted VS unbolted... Carrying it away is not really the problem... Opening the safe is much easier when it is not bolted down. The heavier it is the better, because once you push it over with the door side facing up two guys can put a lot more force into prying it open without it flipping over or moving around.

Example break in times:
Bolted down 45 minutes
Unbolted 8 minutes

If the safe is located in a closet with tight wall space around it and it is bolted down real well it may take even longer... Then it my come down to cutting it open or knowing exactly where to drill it. Be sure to have WARNING EXPLOSIVE BLACK POWDER stickers on it and a good insurance policy.

Check out this video the safe is knocked over and pried open in under 2 minutes.. http://youtu.be/nBhOjWHbD6M
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Old 10-03-2011, 11:49 PM
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It was a ryobi hammer drill. I would go a little at a time and then cool off the bit. I would like to know what is up with it so I know for next time
I don't think your drill uses bits like this:


See the groves on the shank? Those allow the percussion of the hammer drill to do its job. If you have a normal keyed chuck, you are not getting a true hammer drill. I have used drills like your Ryobi and I find that slow/medium speed and steady pressure, with constant clean out of the hole helps speed up the process.
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Old 10-03-2011, 11:57 PM
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Bolted VS unbolted... Carrying it away is not really the problem... Opening the safe is much easier when it is not bolted down. The heavier it is the better, because once you push it over with the door side facing up two guys can put a lot more force into prying it open without it flipping over or moving around.

Example break in times:
Bolted down 45 minutes
Unbolted 8 minutes

If the safe is located in a closet with tight wall space around it and it is bolted down real well it may take even longer... Then it my come down to cutting it open or knowing exactly where to drill it. Be sure to have WARNING EXPLOSIVE BLACK POWDER stickers on it and a good insurance policy.
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Old 10-04-2011, 6:40 AM
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Saan ka nakatira?

Malapita sa Antioch near Golf Course Road.

I have 1 little problem... I can't find the documents to see what kind of slab I have...

Quote:
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If your just on the neighborhood I will mount it for you, I have the proper drill and anchors for mounting on concrete or wall studs.
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Old 10-04-2011, 7:10 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by colddeadhands View Post
I used to install safes in Livermore, if you do end up paying someone to do don't brag about whats going in it.

I don't have enough appendages to keep count of all the dumb***** people who would brag about their gun collection, $100,000 cash, diamonds, or what ever valuable was going into the safe to the guys who knew where it was and how to get it out.
Not that you would, just general advice.
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Old 10-04-2011, 8:00 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Kodemonkey View Post

Bolting down a safe doesn't guarantee anything either. If they can get leverage on a tall safe they can snap the bolts off.
Not so easy to do if you position the safe against the walls in the corner of the room.
Four concrete anchors + no leverage point = harder to move safe.
Not impossible, but much harder, noisier and time consuming to steal.
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