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  #81  
Old 12-21-2010, 1:32 AM
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Finally got around to sanding, pre-stain, and staining. I went with "Ebony" stain and so far I have 3 coats on. Right now my only concern is if I'm going to get the desired color w/o washing out the wood grain in the process. Hopefully with a little luck and if the wood co-operates I'll end up with a nice rich black & grey finish with small accents of red along some of the grain and where there's a few "knots" of it. I have a feeling I'm going to need another few coats to get the desired effect. The fact that I'm going to be leaving town either tomorrow or the next day doesn't help matters. I at least want to be done with the staining before I leave.

Oh and the steamer worked well but I lost interest when I lost concentration and accidentally burned myself
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  #82  
Old 12-31-2010, 12:00 AM
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That is some really good work.

I prefer tung oil myself but your work is so beautiful I am re-thinking my love of tung oil.
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  #83  
Old 12-31-2010, 12:03 AM
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jdewolf, lets see some pics!

Mike, thanks for the compliments! I tried the tung oil and I've found that I prefer the wipe on poly, it has a smoother texture when it's all done, the tung oil still looks great too though.

Here's a tung oil set.




Here's a wipe on poly set.

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  #84  
Old 01-03-2011, 2:09 AM
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so I finished my sks stock, and I have to say for the first time around it didnt turn out too bad

what I did is after I baked the stock to sweat out the cosmoline, I took Krud Kutter (bought at target) and boiling water to clean the stock the rest of the way, when I finished that step the stock looked a thousand times better.

The instead of using any wood stripper I steamed the whole furniture with an iron and a rag to even out everything I could and lift the old stain from the wood. after letting it dry for 24 hours I skipped the pre-stain and went straight to the staining process with minwax red mohogany, put 3 coats of that on then proceeded with 3 coats of minwax wipe on poly (the satin one). the project turned out better than I'd thought! the only blemish is one gouge in the wood I tried to fill in, the filler I used didn't take to the stain too well, thats my only problem with my first time.



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  #85  
Old 01-05-2011, 8:11 AM
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Not quite how I envisioned how it would turn out. Between visiting Nor Cal, coming back for a night, and then leaving town again, and then coming back with a nasty cold my plans got a little derailed.

It looks decent but I got some nasty streaks that I didn't notice before I let the final coating of poly fully cure. I blame the nasty cold for that one. All in all I'm pretty happy with how it turned out. It could have been a lot better if I gave it more time and attention.

For the first time around though I'm mildly happy with the results.

Oh I would have gone for a darker look [more coats] but at a certain point the wood just wouldn't take anymore stain. I think I ended up with 5 1/2 coats of stain. When I'd clean off the last coat I was getting a lot of stain on my rags. I'm not sure if the cold and rain affected the curing or what.
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  #86  
Old 01-12-2011, 5:54 PM
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Very timely - I'm planning on re-finishing a WASR HG & stock set very soon and this thread will come in handy.
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  #87  
Old 01-12-2011, 6:56 PM
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jdewolf, you can fix the streaks by sanding the out carefully and then adding some more wipe on poly. For darker color you would need either a darker stain or just to add a little bit of a darker stain to the color you were using, as you said after awhile it won't absorb any more stain. I think it looks pretty good but the picture isn't that great either.

SemperFi, your SKS looks great, thanks for posting the pics here
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  #88  
Old 01-19-2011, 10:03 PM
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Well I gave it a shot.....I think that I should have used a more red stain as they didn't turn out the color I wanted (USED GUNSTOCK). I refinished a set of Romy-G handguards and I did evertyhing exactly as you listed. I ran into some issues with the parts not drying as fast as I think it was just really cold and moist whee I was refinishing them. I tried using a infra-red heat lamp but that is a big no-no as it actually started to make the wood oooze sap! I have gotten 2 coats on the wipe on poly on so far and will add the third tomorrow. I will post up some pics when I am finished.

On another note my stocks had some large gouges in them so I tried using wood putty to fill but looks like poop. Oh well trial and error hopefully the next set will look better!Thanks Aimsmall great thread!
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  #89  
Old 01-19-2011, 10:12 PM
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Originally Posted by DREADNOUGHT78 View Post
Well I gave it a shot.....I think that I should have used a more red stain as they didn't turn out the color I wanted (USED GUNSTOCK). I refinished a set of Romy-G handguards and I did evertyhing exactly as you listed. I ran into some issues with the parts not drying as fast as I think it was just really cold and moist whee I was refinishing them. I tried using a infra-red heat lamp but that is a big no-no as it actually started to make the wood oooze sap! I have gotten 2 coats on the wipe on poly on so far and will add the third tomorrow. I will post up some pics when I am finished.

On another note my stocks had some large gouges in them so I tried using wood putty to fill but looks like poop. Oh well trial and error hopefully the next set will look better!Thanks Aimsmall great thread!
Centerfire systems has Romy stock sets for $12.99 here http://www.centerfiresystems.com/stkaka04.aspx but it doesn't come with the gas tube wood piece.

I like to wait overnight between coats and/or apply before work and re-apply afterwork. This way usually allows 8-9 hours between coats which is plenty even if it's cold out.
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  #90  
Old 02-15-2011, 6:22 PM
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Default Dude you ROCK!!!

...
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  #91  
Old 02-15-2011, 6:27 PM
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AIMSMALL you are the MAN! I followed your instructions and I ended up producing a furniture set for my Rommy build that was better then expected! Thanks a lot for taking the time to put together the tutorial as you made it fun and easy.
Thanks for the compliments. Your furniture looks great
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  #92  
Old 02-15-2011, 6:45 PM
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Originally Posted by DREADNOUGHT78 View Post
On another note my stocks had some large gouges in them so I tried using wood putty to fill but looks like poop. Oh well trial and error hopefully the next set will look better!Thanks Aimsmall great thread!
This is one of the areas where traditional finishes shine. You can use plaster of paris mixed with linseed oil (or shellac) into a thick paste to fill large areas. It works much better during the dry summer months, but you can gently heat it to drive moisture out as it cures. The plaster turns translucent but fills nicely. You'll still see the gouge, but it will be well below the surface of the final finish. You can always topcoat with poly afterward for water impermeability.

If you use an unfiltered shellac, like button lac, it removes the need to dye or stain the wood as the red color is an exact match for soviet shellac. Just make sure to filter out most of the bug parts before applying the finish.
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  #93  
Old 03-15-2011, 7:31 PM
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All of the refinish pictures came out very nicely. Gonna have to try out the 25% bleach and water method one day for some old stocks I got laying around.
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  #94  
Old 03-31-2011, 6:18 PM
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Originally Posted by AIMSMALL View Post
jdewolf, you can fix the streaks by sanding the out carefully and then adding some more wipe on poly. For darker color you would need either a darker stain or just to add a little bit of a darker stain to the color you were using, as you said after awhile it won't absorb any more stain. I think it looks pretty good but the picture isn't that great either.
I was using Ebony stain, I don't think it gets much darker than that. I'm happy with the results there's a few streaks but they aren't noticeable unless you look closely. Considering the rest of the rifle isn't "pristine" I can live with it for now. Who knows maybe I'll have some more furniture in the future to play around with.
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Old 05-07-2011, 6:16 PM
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I would like to do this. I just got my AK and have not taken it apart yet. On a scale of 1 to 10 how hard is it to get the furniture off? I`m nervous to take the gun apart for the first time. Way more parts to it than my XD40
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  #96  
Old 05-07-2011, 8:46 PM
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I would like to do this. I just got my AK and have not taken it apart yet. On a scale of 1 to 10 how hard is it to get the furniture off? I`m nervous to take the gun apart for the first time. Way more parts to it than my XD40
1 being the easiest, it's a 1. The front pieces come off just by flipping a lever and the stock just has 2 screws holding it on. There's a hole in the rear trunnion you can put a large screw driver through to help pursuade it out of the reciever.
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  #97  
Old 05-10-2011, 6:30 PM
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Originally Posted by Sanderhawk View Post
I would like to do this. I just got my AK and have not taken it apart yet. On a scale of 1 to 10 how hard is it to get the furniture off? I`m nervous to take the gun apart for the first time. Way more parts to it than my XD40
What area you live in? I'm sure there's sombody close by that can help.
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  #98  
Old 05-21-2011, 10:35 AM
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Originally Posted by DREADNOUGHT78 View Post
Well I gave it a shot.....I think that I should have used a more red stain as they didn't turn out the color I wanted (USED GUNSTOCK). I refinished a set of Romy-G handguards and I did evertyhing exactly as you listed. I ran into some issues with the parts not drying as fast as I think it was just really cold and moist whee I was refinishing them. I tried using a infra-red heat lamp but that is a big no-no as it actually started to make the wood oooze sap! I have gotten 2 coats on the wipe on poly on so far and will add the third tomorrow. I will post up some pics when I am finished.

On another note my stocks had some large gouges in them so I tried using wood putty to fill but looks like poop. Oh well trial and error hopefully the next set will look better!Thanks Aimsmall great thread!
Do you have a pic with them dyed ( gunstock ) that is the color I bought for mine also. I will change color if its not what I thought it was.

On a side note I just took it apart a couple days ago to give it a cleaning. Wasn`t to bad.
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Old 05-27-2011, 12:14 AM
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I'm having a heck of a time getting the wood off of the upper handguard. I tried using a crescent wrench, and tried clamping one end in the vice but the wood won't budge. I'm afraid of doing damage by trying to force it. I'm giving it liberal amounts of WD-40 and I'll try again in the morning. Are there any tricks to doing this, or anyone have any ideas?
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Old 05-27-2011, 12:43 AM
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I'm having a heck of a time getting the wood off of the upper handguard. I tried using a crescent wrench, and tried clamping one end in the vice but the wood won't budge. I'm afraid of doing damage by trying to force it. I'm giving it liberal amounts of WD-40 and I'll try again in the morning. Are there any tricks to doing this, or anyone have any ideas?
No tricks that I know of, clamp flat steel part in the vice and twist the wood 180. These can break in half sometimes too so beware. If it's just not going to come of for you without breaking you can re-finish it without taking it off the gas tube, just put a little blue painters tape over the metal part while you sand the wood. The top hand guards go for around $10 just in case it does break.
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Old 05-27-2011, 3:35 AM
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No tricks that I know of, clamp flat steel part in the vice and twist the wood 180. These can break in half sometimes too so beware. If it's just not going to come of for you without breaking you can re-finish it without taking it off the gas tube, just put a little blue painters tape over the metal part while you sand the wood. The top hand guards go for around $10 just in case it does break.
Yeah with as thin as the wood is and the amount of pressure I'm putting in to it, I'm definitely worried about breaking the wood or marring the metal.

If I can't get t off tomorrow I'll probably just do the work with it still on.
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Old 06-05-2011, 7:25 PM
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Any advice on getting the poly to go on evenly? I've tried applying it with a T-shirt, and with two types of brushes, and everytime i get either streaks and/or little air bubbles. When it dries i sand it with the steel wool to even it all out, but then it just streaks when the next coat goes on. Is there a certain way to get it on evenly, or is it just an issue of getting the coats thick enough to be able to sand it evenly on the final coat?
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Old 06-05-2011, 7:40 PM
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Any advice on getting the poly to go on evenly? I've tried applying it with a T-shirt, and with two types of brushes, and everytime i get either streaks and/or little air bubbles. When it dries i sand it with the steel wool to even it all out, but then it just streaks when the next coat goes on. Is there a certain way to get it on evenly, or is it just an issue of getting the coats thick enough to be able to sand it evenly on the final coat?
If your using the minwax wipe on poly I'm surprised to hear your having this problem.

1. Is it really cold in the room your doing this in causing the poly to go on really thick?
2. You should not be sanding the final coat as it will dull it up.
3. The sanding between coats is meant to get out any really small imperfections and give the next coat a better surface to stick to.
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Old 06-05-2011, 8:22 PM
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1:Yeah it's the same minwax poly shown in your OP, and it's not particularly cold here.
2,3: That was my understanding, which is why I'm getting confused because if each layer keeps going on like this, the final layer will be uneven.
It kinda seems like maybe the poly is too thick. When it goes on it has enough surface tension to prevent it from flattening out and filling in the little valleys left from the application. Any smoothing out I try to do when it's still wet tends to leave new marks. Think it might help to warm the poly prior to application? Any other ideas?
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Old 06-05-2011, 8:44 PM
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1:Yeah it's the same minwax poly shown in your OP, and it's not particularly cold here.
2,3: That was my understanding, which is why I'm getting confused because if each layer keeps going on like this, the final layer will be uneven.
It kinda seems like maybe the poly is too thick. When it goes on it has enough surface tension to prevent it from flattening out and filling in the little valleys left from the application. Any smoothing out I try to do when it's still wet tends to leave new marks. Think it might help to warm the poly prior to application? Any other ideas?
It should be pretty thin, not as thin as water but much thinner then paint or maple syrup. Maybe like hot maple syrup or even a little thinner then that. I use a piece of cut up t-shirt to apply, this seems to work best for me. As for heating it up I don't know, never tried that but I would be carefull about how you heat it and how hot you get it if you do try it for obvious reasons.
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Old 06-22-2011, 4:39 PM
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Well I finished my AK47 refinishing project. It took about 4 days. I couldn`t get the the furiture off the rifle so I just did alot of taping and refinished it fully assembled. I finished it with a walnut stain and a satin rub on poly. I think it came out pretty damn good.

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Old 06-22-2011, 5:37 PM
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Looks sweet man, good work.
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  #108  
Old 07-09-2011, 6:21 PM
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I have aspirations of adding some bakelite refinishing on here too.
What ever happened to these aspirations of bakelite refinishing? I was very interested in that.
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Old 07-09-2011, 7:37 PM
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What ever happened to these aspirations of bakelite refinishing? I was very interested in that.
I did start on one piece, I sand blasted it in preparation of a new clear coat then just kinda forgot about it. I'm more curious about how it will look then anything as I don't really have any Bakelite that NEEDS refinishing. This idea was just a fun thing to see if it worked.
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  #110  
Old 07-23-2011, 5:08 PM
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Has anyone else tried Bakelite refinishing?
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  #111  
Old 07-25-2011, 6:02 PM
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Thank you for posting, I need to try this!
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Old 08-18-2011, 8:37 PM
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Just wondering if anybody ever try black dye? just want my AK to look something like this:

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Old 08-18-2011, 9:44 PM
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This is a great thread, thank you!

I did my first two kits today. I think they turned out great. They were both done with Minwax Red mahogany 225. The first set is just one staining and Minwax poly light coating. The second is two times staining waiting 30 minutes to wipe the excess, and waiting 8 hours between staining and did two coats of poly. Note these are both dry but they sure are shiny.

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-Darth

Last edited by darthnugget; 08-18-2011 at 9:47 PM..
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Old 09-07-2011, 3:21 PM
safaridave safaridave is offline
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I'm thinking of refinishing my Romy-G stock set too. I would, however, like to recreate the black strip on the rear of the stock. Any ideas on the type of paint to use and methodology?
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Old 09-07-2011, 5:49 PM
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Originally Posted by safaridave View Post
I'm thinking of refinishing my Romy-G stock set too. I would, however, like to recreate the black strip on the rear of the stock. Any ideas on the type of paint to use and methodology?
I thought this ws mentioned somewhere already but maybe not. The originals are actually dipped into the paint (not sure excatly what type of paint), the easy way to recreate this is to do all the steps in the tutorial but after a few coats of clear tape around the stock where the black line will end and spray paint the bottom part of the stock. once thats all dry apply a few more coats of clear and your done.
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  #116  
Old 09-11-2011, 11:55 AM
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Used your tutorial with a few tweaks. I started by rubbing the stock with acetone and rags. Then dropped them into a 50/50 solution of clorox and hot water for about 2 hours. Then vinegar and water for about 30 minutes to neutralize the bleach. Let it dry over night, sanded with 220. Hand rubbed onyx stain into the grain, then gloss poly afterwards.
Start

After bleach and sand

Stained

1 coat of poly

Coat number 3

Going for a deep polished clear on these

Last edited by sandeggo; 09-12-2011 at 8:07 AM..
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  #117  
Old 09-11-2011, 12:49 PM
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Looking good man
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  #118  
Old 09-12-2011, 11:17 AM
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will the citri strip also remove the cosmo? especially the cosmo that is soaked into the wood itself? meaning, if i use the citistrip, does that eliminate having to put the stock in the oven or sun to sweat out the cosmo?
thanks
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Old 09-12-2011, 12:09 PM
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I have had great luck with the citristrip and have never had to put a stock in the oven, the original finish on the wood should keep most of the cosmo from absorbing into the wood. Give my method a try, I think it will work out just fine.
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Old 09-12-2011, 12:10 PM
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Quote:
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Give my method a try...
You better believe it... going to buy citistrip from home depot on my lunch break! and other misc items (gloves, steel wool, etc).
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