[Nate74]

I'm planning on replacing the free float hand guard on my 24" varminter AR and have two questions.

First, doe replacement hand guards typcially come drilled and tapped for a sling stud?

Secondly, if they don't, is it just a matter of drilling and tapping the hand guard, or is there something else involved.

Are all sling studs the same thread diam/pitch?

Thanks for any guidance you can offer.

Nate

[Ugly Dwarf]

Originally Posted by Nate74

First, doe replacement hand guards typcially come drilled and tapped for a sling stud?

I've not seen handguards come pre-drilled, but they may exist. I expect if the handguard has been drilled, a stud or swivel will have been installed too.

Secondly, if they don't, is it just a matter of drilling and tapping the hand guard, or is there something else involved.

That is how I did it on my 24" FF Bushy aluminum handguards.

I don't have the part numbers handy, but I was able to order the correct drill bit, the tap and the stud from Brownells. Call their tech line and they'll help you out... I'm always amazed at how they know all the parts they carry and can find exactly what you're looking for WITHOUT a part number from you.

Good luck,

Dwarf

[phish]

#21 drill bit, 10-32 tap

[Nate74]

Awesome info guys! Thanks!

I hit up one of the machinists here at work and he assures me it will be a simple matter to drill and tap as needed. (Not sure why I forgot we have machinists here...)

Knowing the drill and tap size will make it even easier.

Thanks!

[bigbob76]

The tubular hand guard is aluminum and I think it's safe to say the threaded in stud will surely rip loose. I bought and installed this from Midway. Their product # is 411179. JP Enterprise Inc. JP hand guard floating stud adapter JPHGS. I removed the gas block and slid the threaded plate inside the tubular hand guard. It comes with a rubber O ring on the threaded stud but being an aircraft mechanic I couldn't bring myself to use that. I experimented with little stainless washers until I got the thickness that would give me the correct orientation of the swivel stud when tightened. I used thread sealant and while I had the gas block off I used the Dremel to make some dips in the bull barrel for the set screws on the gas block. I put the Harris bipod on and it worked out great.

[Nate74]

Good stuff bigbob!

Thanks.

[ar15barrels]

Don't just drill and tap the tube.
If you use the stud for bipod, the threads will pull out.

What I do is drill an oversized hole and install a steel insert from inside the tube.
The insert has a step so it can't pull out of the tube.

[jwag]

How far does the stud need to be from the end of the handguard? Can't seem to find anything?

[bigbob76]

Originally Posted by jwag

How far does the stud need to be from the end of the handguard? Can't seem to find anything?

In my case there were already a couple of holes there. I was attaching a Harris bipod so I just held it up there folded to make sure the location was okay.

[jwag]

I guess I should have added that I don't have the bipod yet. I suppose I should wait, but that would be too easy.

[GreenAndy]

Have you thought about adding a short section of rail? There are kits to add 3" or 4" of rail to the handguard. Armalite, Midwest, YHM sell them. The rail would give you more mounting options (bipod, forward grip, etc).

[jwag]

I just spoke to a gentleman at Harris and his recommendation was 2" .